Battery Cable problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Battery Cable problems reported in most popular vehicles.
The car involved is a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. December 2013 -- the radio and dash board lights (service stabilitrak) have been flashing on and off then this evening while driving on a straight road, the "service power steering" light flashed on and my steering wheel locked up. That continued for approx. 2 minutes then started working correctly. When I got home and pulled into my parking spot and turned my car off everything turned off, including my interior lights and I couldn't remove my key from the ignition. I let it sit for approx. 5 minutes then tried to start the car and it did turn on so I turned it off again and I was able to remove the key. February 2014 -- the same things are happening and the power steering turns off and the steering wheel locks up may 2014 -- power steering turns off and steering wheel locks up; battery completely dies randomly; new dealership tells me the battery cables need to be replaced; however, other Cruze owners who have filed a complaint with the same issues and had their battery cable replaced report that this does not resolve the issue. This battery cable issue occurred Monday, December 16, 2013.
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The vehicle involved is a 2009 Chevrolet Silverado. Several times while driving at various speeds the stability control warning light would flash, the door locks would cycle and the gauges would stop working. After a few seconds the warning light would go off and the truck would return to normal. I took the vehicle to the dealer and I was informed that both battery cables had high resistance and needed to be replaced. It is ridiculous that battery cables need to be replaced at 62000 miles. The service adviser made a comment that this was a common problem but it usually happens while the vehicle is still under warranty. This issue happened on Apr. 17, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2010 Chrysler town and country. VIN of the vehicle was 2A4RR5DX5A_. The following lights came abs, anti skid, check engine light. The engine started missing then the security indicator light came on and the alarm inside went off. I had no electrical controls. The windows wouldn't roll down, the door locks wouldn't work and then the engine shut off. The outside alarm then went off too. I had to disable the alarm by unhooking the battery cable. I had the car towed in to the dealer and they told me that the car was not communicating with the computer and they had no idea what the problem was. I then called Chrysler and checked to see if there had been a recall of any kind and sure enough my vehicle had the recall# l25. I have never received a recall notice but the gentlemen that I spoke with at Chrysler corp. Said that according to their records the win module had been replaced on my van and that my vehicle had been repaired on 2-7-2012. That never happened!! it is currently being checked out by the Chrysler tech at our local dealer. They said they are only allowed to replace the rubber gasket inside the module and if the module itself is bad I will have to pay for the module. The gentlemen I spoke with at Chrysler corporation told me that the module would be covered at no charge. This is crazy!!! my two young grandsons were in the van when all this happened. Needless to say they were terrified. This problem needs immediate attention. The government needs to get involved here. This is definitely a safety issue!!. This issue happened on Saturday, March 8, 2014.
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The car is a 2010 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home from work and the likes started flashing and then went out. The parking lights and fog lights were the only lights that worked. Next morning the lights worked. A few days later same thing happened while I was driving. I sent a letter to Chrysler and they wanted me to take it to dealership to get looked at. It took me a couple weeks to get it there cause my other car was in the shop. I had days that the lights would not come on and days that they worked. After taking it to dealer they simply tightened the battery cables and charged me for it. Less then a week later it is acting up again. Lights will either work, flash on and off, or not come on at all. I wrote another letter to them and have an appointment to take it in on Friday but am considering just cutting my losses and trading it in because I carry kids in my van and this is not a safe van. This issue happened on Friday, September 27, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan. Vehicle identification number (VIN): 2C4RDGCG5C_. At 11:30 pm the car engine started (the keys were in the house),horn was blowing, head lights were on, wipers going at full speed four way flasher going there was a red glow under the car and smoke was billowing from under the car and the doors were locked. We were able to get a key from the fob and unlock the doors,and unlatch the hood so we could open the hood. All the wires, alternator, fuse box and battery were cherry red. Using some clippers we were able to cut the battery cable and every thing stopped we cooled things down with some snow. All this only 3 ft. From our house Dodge estimated about $1800. 00 to fix what could be seen and most likely more would show up later. This is the third time we have had problems with the electrical on this car. My wife and I are both disabled and I need a van to carry my wheel chair when I go to the doctor,etc. We don't have the money to fix the car and still make payments I have contacted Dodge and our insurance company, but they say it is our problem. I hope you might be able to help us out. It was 01/03/14 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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The car is a 2012 Dodge Caravan. The VIN of this vehicle is 2C4RDGCG5C_. First time, battery kept going dead. Took it to cortland Dodge, they said there was a problem with the wiring [not covered by warranty] charged us about 80. 00 ! second time. Fuses blown for seat controls and wipers third time car started shifting wildly up and down. Head lights started to dim and car finally quit! had it towed to Dodge dealer was informed it needed new alternator and battery[not covered by warranty] cost almost 1000. 00 to fix it!! fourth time car was parked beside the house when horn started blowing when we went outside car was running lights were flashing wipers and washers were going full speed, flashers going and red glow under car also doors were locked ! ! we finally got door unlocked and got hood open,battery and fuse box was cherry red. Finally took hedge clippers and cut battery cables and things cooled down ! what can we do?!?!?!?!. This issue happened on Monday, February 18, 2013.
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The car involved is a 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I purchased the vehicle used on 2/21/14 w/31,000+/- miles, intial issue was with instrument cluster intermittently blipping on & off (sometimes for extended periods). That issue was followed by a check engine light, which when analyzed showed low fuel sensors a&b (occured in late April 2014). Up to this point the vehicle was drivable with no impact on actual drivability. Last Friday 5/9/14, I was at a light and when it turned green I proceeded to drive off, but vehicle was barley moving or responding to throttle input, this continued for a short distance & eventually built up to normal speed. It recurred again at the next light, with same symptoms. I contacted a mechanic I know and the next day I disconnected the battery cable in an attempt to clear the system, and as of a week later only the dash lights issue has recurred. However I feel the loss of power is a significant concern if it were to occur on a busy road or at highway speeds. This problem occurred on 05/09/2014.
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The vehicle is a 2012 Ford Transit Connect. As I'm driving home, I start to smell an unusual odor. I get home , pull in drive, turn off transit and start unloading groceries. This is when I notice smoke coming from the dashboard. I continue to unload while I keep an eye on the smoke. It worsens and I realize it was on fire and by now there were orange drops of fire falling to the floor. I yell for my neighbor who uses our fire extinguishers on site to try and put out the fire. We had to unhook the battery cables to finally get the fire out completely. It seemed centralized around the glove box on the passenger side. The dashboard on that side was completely burned. My first call was to apple Ford in red lion, the dealership it was purchased at less than a year prior. My second call was to my insurance company. Apple dismissed the insurance adjuster saying it was a warranty issue on day 2. The transit has been sitting at apple Ford untouched ever since (2 months!!) as we looked for answers we only got bounced between apple and corporate Ford with no resolution and no answers. Our insurance company has now gotten involved and their expert originator found it was the blower motor resister part that failed causing the fire. Ford is still uncooperative, and changing their story constantly. It was Tue., Feb. 4, 2014 when this battery cable issue happened.
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The vehicle involved was a 2010 GMC Acadia. Vehicle identification number (VIN): 1GKLVNED7A_. The main battery cable running from the battery located behind the passager's seat was resting on a bolt from the frame. The threads from the bolt cut through the battery cable and shorted out the electrical system causing the floor matting to catch fire while the vehicle was in motion. The engine shut down, causing a loss of power steering and brakes. Since it was the main battery cable the connects directly to the battery with no fuse, the short continued to spark. In the particual vehicle the battery is located inside the vehicle, below the passager side rear floor. The positive battery cable runs from there to inside the engine compartment to the alternator, with no fuse in between. I took the vehicle to the dealer and they said it was not a warranty issue. I raised the question with them about a recall and got no where. I did some searches on GMC blog sites and this issue has happened on a number of other vehicles, one leading to a wreck. Luckily I was at a stop light turning when it happened to me. If this would have happened on a freeway at freeway speeds, the story could have been much worse. The failure date was Saturday, May 19, 2012.
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The vehicle is a 2007 GMC Acadia. The VIN of this Acadia is 1GKER33737_. I am on active duty an active duty military member. While attending a military school, I purchased a new 2007 GMC Acadia from a GMC dealership nearby. After the course, I served a year at a military station in another state, while there, my vehicle was serviced twice for recalls by a GMC service center nearby. One of the recalls was to fix a defect in the sun roof that was causing water leaks. I had the vehicle serviced in 09 while the vehicle was still under warranty just before shipping for a 2 year overseas assignment. At that time, I identified some electrical issues. Soon after my arrival to my overseas assignment, more electrical issues developed along with mystery water leaks that were saturating the carpet and causing mold to grow inside the vehicle. There was no gm service center in that country so I had to live with the leaks and electrical problems. Finally after about a year, I had a minor accident where my tire hit a guard rail doing about 10 mph. All the air bags deployed but there was no other damage to the vehicle. At this point I quit using the vehicle. The seat belts didnâ€™t work, the ac and heater didnâ€™t work, the left blinker didnâ€™t work, the engine would not shut off with the key, the battery box behind the passenger seat kept flooding with water and I had to disconnect a battery cable every time I parked the car to keep the battery from dying. The vehicle was unsafe. I am now stationed in the us and have shipped the vehicle back to the USA. I am now trying to resolve all these issues with a local gm service center but I am being told by that service center that the vehicle is basically totaled with only 60k miles but since it is now out of warranty, I am responsible for the repairs. This issue happened on Monday, Jun. 1, 2009.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2006 Acura Rl. Driving down steep "s" turn in mountains when battery cable disconnected and all of car's systems shut down. No brakes, no steering, no power. Worst part was that doors locked and we could not unlock them nor the windows. Extremely frightening. There was no cell phone service where we were. If not for forest ranger who came along, because of car being partly into one of the lanes of this two-lane road, we would have roasted to death. Nobody else stopped in spite of "help" signs. There was no inside manual exit from car. Ranger had to jiggle and hold battery connection until we could unlock car. We were just lucky we weren't either going faster or in area with no mountain to the side of us where we might have gone off cliff. We were on a dangerous curve and were scared to death someone would hit us from behind. Rangers and one of us directed traffic until tow truck arrived 1-1/2 hrs later. The battery was only a couple months old. Tow truck said wrong battery had been installed at time of change and that it "popped" the clamps that ensure connection and a charge on the battery. But losing a battery connection shouldn't mean someone is going to lose their life! we had four people in the car, and we all feel we barely escaped. This issue happened on Saturday, August 18, 2012.
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The reporting person owns a 2004 Acura Mdx. While the contact was driving 35mph, the battery cable became disconnected and the vehicle lost all power. The contact was unable to steer or stop the vehicle when the failure happened, however there was no accident. The failure and current mileages was 145000. This issue happened on Mar. 16, 2010.
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The car involved is a 1999 Honda Accord. While driving the vehicle, the engine will quit completely without any warning or indication of malfunction; it just stops. Sometimes it will start up again immediately, sometimes multiple attempts where it catches for a fraction of a second and stops again have been required over a period of several minutes. Over time, it seemed to become clear that turning the key to the off position instead of attempting a start from acc would almost always result in immediate restart. The issue disappeared over what was a fairly cold winter, but has returned with the warming weather. Total number of occurrences: somewhere around fifty or higher. Sometimes it would happen numerous times the same day, increasingly with increased temperature, and seemed much more prone to occur when the air-conditioning was in use. The repair shop was never able to capture an obd code with its recording device. As a commuter on rural roads, this has been inconvenient but so far not unsafe, but there is a potential for it occurring under adverse traffic conditions that might be unsafe, e. G. , at highway speed with close following traffic on a road with no shoulder. These incidents may or may not be related to two repairs that almost immediately preceded the first occurrence of this problem: 1. The car wouldn't start one day, no electrical output at all was available, though the battery was only a few months old. A local (I. E. , non-dealer) repair shop replace the negative battery cable that grounds the battery to the vehicle. 2. Timing belt replacement was performed a couple of months prior, again by a local repair shop. This battery cable issue occurred Wed., Jul. 24, 2013.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 2HKYF18544_. I purchased a 2004 Honda Pilot on October 23, 2003 and have since had the battery replaced twice along with four towing occurrences and on-going safety concern for my family especially my two toddlers each time I turn the ignition on. I have not been unsuccessful with a resolve from the manufacturer. After my fourth attempt of mail the manufacturer and dealer only offer to reimburse my $400 towing expenses. The dealer I purchased the vehicle from to date cannot give me an accurate diagnosis. Academy Honda claims my issues could range from re-programming keys, ignition, fuel pumps etc. I have lost days from work, pre-paid child care and tuition expenses and suffers horrifying emotional stress from these incidences. To dated not one representative from the Honda dealer has called to see how vehicle is running. It is apparent that this vehicle has an on-going safety issues that requires immediate detailed scrutiny. I would like to have this matter investigated. This is my only mode of transportation for work, errands and family affairs. I fear the death of my 3 and 4 yrs old toddlers, in addition to myself and my spouse. At this point any given morning, afternoon or evening I can be stranded at any venue. Any expedited attention you can place on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your consideration. The failure date was Dec. 22, 2003.
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The vehicle was a 2008 Hyundai Entourage. While driving on interstate 40 in memphis, TN, approximately 2:30 pm on March 07, 2014, the esc indicator light became illuminated on the dash-board. My attempts to extinguish the illuminated esc light numerous times failed to reset or extinguished the esc light. Upon arriving home about 3:30 pm, I parked my 2008 Hyundai Entourage, turned-off the engine and restarted the engine. The illuminated indicator esc light did not inappropriately illuminate. I inspected the exterior lights only to learn all of the rear lights were still illuminated with the engine turned-off and in park. My efforts to turn-off the rear lights failed. I was instructed to disconnect the positive battery terminal and bring my 2008 Hyundai Entourage in for inspection and repairs at a Hyundai dealership. After I reconnected the battery cable on Tuesday, March 11, 2014, the esc indicator light reappeared (became illuminated) again. After another Hyundai motor America dealership inspected and repaired my 2008 Hyundai Entourage, it was learned that the previous Hyundai dealership performing the “recall and repair” mechanical work, “jerry-rigged” (to fix an object (usually mechanical) to a working condition in a haphazard way. Also known as doing a macgyver on it), or repaired my electronic stability control (esc) system in a manner inconsistent or contrary to Hyundai motor America manufacturer specifications. The Hyundai dealership intentionally and purposefully used parts that would fail and put my safety in question. In view of how I was treated by professional staff at that dealership during my seven (7) hour ordeal, I believe the dealership’s action was an act of purposeful sabotage and criminal negligence, designed to put my personal safety in question. The failure date was Mar. 7, 2014.
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The car is a 2006 Hyundai Sonata. VIN of the vehicle was 5NPEU46F76_. First of all the time and mileage are approximate. We experienced difficulty in turning off the parking/dashboard lights in our 2006 Hyundai Sonata. Flicking the stalk back and forth a few times would eventually turn them off. I asked my mechanic and called 2 local Hyundai dealers and all agreed the only solution is to replace the entire fuse/relay box. After consulting a few Hyundai forums I learned that this was a problem affecting some 2006 and 2007 hyundias and that owners were paying between $700 to $1200 to replace the faulty part. Many owners are upset that Hyundai does not issue a recall. On Monday, January 27, 2014 the stalk stopped working. A call to Hyundai north America not only resulted in no help in finding out which fuse would disable the lights but also assured me that Hyundai seems to expect the life of such parts to last just past the warranty expiration date. I decided to pull out the relay located under the dashboard which turned off the lights (among other things). The next day when my wife left work after inserting the relay back in, she couldn't get out of first gear and slowly things started to stop working such as the heated seat and the rear defogger. Once home, I disconnected the battery, waited a few minutes, reconnected the battery and road-tested the car. Everything worked normal; however, this is the only way to turn off the lights. On Sunday, February 2, 2014 I bought a battery quick-disconnect and wired the other end to the existing Hyundai positive battery cable. Now, while we wait weeks (possibly months) to have the money to get this part replaced, my wife will have to leave work and in a dark parking lot, reconnect the battery using this quick-disconnect tool. While the car sits at home and at her place of employment, it remains unlocked with no alarm, I can provide digital pictures of this along with other complaints about the car. The failure date was Fri., Jun. 1, 2012.
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The car was a 2004 Infiniti Fx35. The VIN of this vehicle is JNRAS08W74_. My car would not start and we realized the + battery cable was not making good contact with the battery. We have never messed with the battery. Since then the horn will not work. I took it in and it was the ipdm (independent p? disbursement module) and it costs $775 for the part. When a car is coming into my lane, or backing from parking space towards me, I have no way to warn them and protect myself and my family. I researched online to try and find a replacement part cheaper and came upon many blogs of owners of 2004 Fx35 who have the same problem. The failure date was Saturday, September 25, 2010.
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The vehicle involved was a 2009 Jeep Wrangler. Was driving with low speed when I heard the car alarm and heavy smoke started to show from under the hood. I had no full coverage on the truck so I had to take chance to open the hood and remove the battery cable before the whole car goes on fire. Was lucky this is didn't happen while I am driving on the freeway. The technition said that the fuse box was caught on fire. This battery cable problem happened on 03/20/14.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 1C4RJFCG7E_. The vehicle was a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The contact stated that the instrument panel would sporadically power off and reboot independently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who removed the battery cable for 10 minutes before reconnecting. There were no repairs made to the vehicle. The exact cause of the failure was unknown however, the failure recurred. The failure was not reported to the manufacturer. The failure mileage was 29. The current mileage was 233. This problem occurred on May 13, 2013.
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The car was a 1996 Land Rover Range Rover. The VIN of this Range Rover is SALPE1243T_. Engine caught fire due to rubbing of battery cable on metal. This issue happened on May. 17, 1997.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was JT8BH22F1T_. The owner has a 1996 Lexus Ls400. The contact attempted to start the vehicle when the battery caught on fire at the positive post. He stated that he was able to extinguish the fire yet the vehicle would no longer start. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic for the failure where the mechanic advised him of a recall under NHTSA campaign id number: 98v016000 (electrical system; starter assembly). He then called the manufacturer and was advised that the recall work had previously been performed on the vehicle. The mechanic advised him that the starter, battery and battery cables would need to be replaced. The contact also stated that he was unable to shift gears. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 170,000. The failure date was 03/31/11.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 1997 Lincoln Continental. Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 1LNLM97V9V_. Battery cable connection to starter solenoid is loose. Mgm. It was Thursday, May. 1, 1997 when this battery cable issue happened.
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The car involved was a 2004 Mazda Mazda3. Issue: all electrical components along with power steering shutting off intermittently while driving. The first instance of this issue happened while turning into a parking lot. As I was making a right turn all the electrical components in my vehicle shut off, along with the power steering. About a second later everything came back on and operating normally. This same issue would happen intermittently, usually when making right turns. There was never enough of a pattern to say that it was happening every week or month, etc. I took vehicle to Mazda dealership and they diagnosed it as battery cables needing to be replaced, after it started happening more frequently a few months later. The issue stopped for a couple months, but then began again. This time it started happening just by tapping on the brakes as well as making a turn. All the electrical on the vehicle would shut off, along with the power steering again; and then it would come back after a second being off. This time it began happening much more frequently, at least a couple of times a week; most recently it happened again and this time my power steering was off for my entire 30 mile drive home from work. I took it again to a different Mazda dealership to have it diagnosed, and this time I was told they needed to change the battery, alternator and power steering pump for starters; but was not guaranteed that would resolve the issue as the techs had never seen this issue before at their site; they say they called their corporate tech line and were advised to replace those items first. I even showed them a video I had taken of this happening in my car one night as I drove around my block in order to document the issue. There is no pattern with regards to speed of vehicle, or whether the engine is cold or has been running for a while, as the issue can happen regardless of any of these conditions. This battery cable problem happened on Monday, Apr. 2, 2012.
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The vehicle was a 2008 Mazda Mazda6. I tried to start my car on Sunday morning (March 18th) and it would not start. I purchased a new battery. When I went to install it, I noted that the positive cable had corroded to the point where it could no longer make contact with the battery terminal. Apparently, the wiring needs to be replaced at a cost of approximately $400. Why would this happen at only 39,000 miles? I'm still working through this with the dealer, but wanted to post something as it appears others have had the same issue. I'm definitely not a mechanic but it appears that people might be having problems starting their car, or with batteries needing to be replaced pre-maturely and not realizing that it's due to corroded cables. The failure date was 03/18/2012.
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The car involved is a 2000 Mercedes Benz 500s. The VIN of this vehicle is WDBNG75J0Y_. My 2000 Mercedes Benz s-500 instrument cluster started flickering off and on about 3 months ago, then went completely out on Sunday February 1, 2009 while returning from a super bowl party. I had to drive approximately 90 miles with absolutely no help from my indication and safety system on a $80,000 vehicle. After days of trying to figure out what to do and countless hours of searching on the internet, I decided to disconnect the negative battery cable to reset to cars computer. This is what I have to do approx twice a year when my radio, cd, navigation and phone goes out. That did the trick for now. I called my local mb dealer in germantown, MD after reading some of the complaints on this website and was told to bring the car in so that they could hook it up to a diagnostic computer at $195. 00 per hour. After reading the comments here and knowing that mb has thousands of vehicles with this same problem and has fixed approx 7 cars. I own 2 mb a 98 c-class and a 2000 s-500 and love both of my cars but I will never, never, never, ever buy another Mercedes Benz vehicle. I will stick Honda or Acura from now own. Every time I have taken my car into mb for service, I have been screwed over. Now have a vibration when the car is shifting through lower gears. Mb says it is a bearing in my drive shaft and it is not covered under warranty but my local mechanic at another service station says it's a bearing in my drive shaft that connects to my transmission and should be covered by warranty. I also paid over $2000. 00 to fix the problem with the locking gear shift and tow. This is a terrible way to treat loyal mb customers. I would love to have the new s-500 because I love the styling and features but just can't take the chance with all the problems and the most dishonest service departments in the car industry. I will encourage all of my friends and family to never buy another mb until me start treating their customers like they want them to come back. "a !@#$% us marine". This battery cable problem happened on Feb. 1, 2009.
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The car is a 2000 Mercedes Benz 320e. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Mercedes Benz 320e is WDBJF65J7Y_. Consumer was unable to start the vehicle, no lights would work, and the ignition key would not turn, a tow driver found that the negative battery cable was completely disconnected from the battery. This issue happened on Sat., Oct. 14, 2000.
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Consumer owns a 1999 Mercury Cougar. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 mph, the engine stalled without warning. The contact inspected under the hood and tightened the battery cable. The vehicle restarted and resumed normally. The failure recurred upon reaching the residence. In addition, a strong odor of fuel emitted inside of the vehicle with a small amount of leakage on the ground. The contact referenced NHTSA campaign id numbers 04v421000 ( fuel system, gasoline) and 01v031000 (electrical system). The VIN was not included in either recall. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer but had not been diagnosed or repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 117,000. This problem occurred on July 10, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2001 Mercury Sable. Vehicle identification number (VIN): 1MEFM55S41_. : the contact stated there were two problems with the vehicle. The first being the engine would not start intermittently. The engine would start if it was boosted. The vehicle was taken to the local independent repair shop for inspection. The repair personnel discovered the battery cables had separated from the terminals. The cables were repaired. The second was a transmission failure. The transmission was shifted into park and the vehicle lurched forward. After this incident, the vehicle would not go into any gear. The vehicle was towed to the local repair shop for inspection. The transmission was rebuilt and the vehicle drives normal. The front bumper fascia cracked. The left rear tire failed. Updated 03/03/06. This battery cable issue occurred Monday, January 16, 2006.
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2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport; the car horn/alarm goes off usually when a drop of temperature occurs in the middle of the night. To fix . . . Has something to do with a short in the electrical of the air bag and the steering wheel column. Very expensive for a mechanic, over $1200. I have to unhook my battery every night and on colder days. Researching online. . . . . A lot of people are disabling the horn/alarm system and driving without horns. Or they are tampering with the air bag to try and fix. It is a very common problem. . . . . . . Today I could not drive the car because every time I hooked the battery cable back up the horn stayed on. I am considering disabling the horn altogether. This battery cable problem happened on Jan. 19, 2012.
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The vehicle involved is a 2002 Mitsubishi Galant. I am having problems with my car not wanting to start. This has been going on for quite some time. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the cam shaft censor after a month or two the starting problem started again. I then had the coils, wires and battery cable replace and still have the problem. I want to know if there has been recalls for these problems no I have not been told. I only have 68000 miles on this car and should not be having this problem. It was January 6, 2012 when this battery cable issue happened.
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The vehicle is a 2006 Nissan Xterra. The contact stated that while having an oil change performed, she was advised that the positive battery cable was defective due to corrosion. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician verified the failure and stated that the battery needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 36,000 and the current mileage was 38,000. The failure date was 04/17/2012.
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The vehicle is a 2008 Nissan Quest. On June 26th 2013 the vehicle experienced total loss of power while driving and there was a corresponding strong electrical burning smell. Fortunately the vehicle was able coast off the main road and the family was able to exit safely. No fire started but car would not restart. Car was towed to Nissan where they identified the problem as the ground battery cable being pulled off the transmission mounting point. The battery cable was replaced with a modified design that prevents this from occurring, the damage caused by the ground wire breaking was $2,871 which included the ground wire, 6 igntion coils, ecm, ipdm and labor. There is a TSB ntb06-075 for Quest models 2004-2007, however the 2008 had the same design as indicated in the TSB. The vehicle had been in at st charles Nissan as recently as 6 weeks earlier and the 27-point Nissan inspection had been performed which was supposed to included the battery cable. No issues were found with the battery cable so either the inspection was not thorough or there was catastrophic wire failure caused by excessive drivetrain movement. The vehicle smelled like it could have caught on fire which it unfortunately did not. Losing all power instantaneously without any prior symptoms or service engine lights is concerning for this could have just as easily happened in an intersection or where the vehicle was not safely able to avoid other vehicles. The damaged parts have been retained in case nhsta would like to inspect. It was Jun. 26, 2013 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved was a 2003 SAAB 9-5. The vehicle stalled on 4 separate occasions from various speeds of 25 mph or more while driving. The vehicle has been to the dealer on 3 separate occasions. The dealer has cleaned and tightened the battery cables, the first time, they replaced the crank sensor, t-7 and the ignition switch, the second time and the third time, they were unable to duplicate the problem. The ecm was replaced but the vehicle stalled again, the cup holder crack and had broken, the battery cables were loose and dirty, the transmission did not shift properly and caused a jerking motion, the electrical gauges dropped and the vehicle lost acceleration. This battery cable problem happened on Wednesday, October 15, 2003.
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The vehicle involved is a 1999 SAAB 9-5. VIN of the vehicle was YS3ED58EXX_. 1999 SAAB 9-5 has a faulty master cylinder, and vacuum booster which both had to be replaced at owners expense. In the past the consumer had to replace the water pump. Heater fan motor, thermostat. Leaky sunroof, battery, battery cables and numerous light bulbs. It was Wed., Dec. 28, 2005 when this battery cable issue happened.
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The vehicle involved was a 2007 Saturn Ion. The VIN of the car is 1G8AJ55F27_. Ignition locked and could not remove key to stop engine, only way to shut off engine was to disconnect battery cables--called dealer in frederick, MD the very next morning--had to have my car towed to the gm dealer, frederick, MD, the dealership repaired the problem and I was charged $512. 36 and I paid the invoice of $512. 36. I received a recall letter on March 14, 2014 #14v-047 -- I am requesting the reimbursement in the matter. The failure date was Thursday, June 10, 2010.
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The car is a 2007 Saturn Ion. After my day of driving I pulled into my driveway at my home and put my car into the park gear and continued to remove my key--the key would not turn to off position. It had locked into place. I had to call my husband to come home and help me. He too tried. It would not turn to the off position. The only way we got the car to turn off the engine was to disconnect the battery cables. The key stayed in the on position. I had to contact the gm dealer the next morning -- I had to have my car towed to the dealership in frederick, maryland. I was repaired and I was charged a total of $512. 36 I received a recall letter today March 14, 2014 stating there is a recall 14063 the national highway traffic safety administration campaign id number for this recall is 14v-047 since this has already affected my car and I have paid I am requesting reimbursement. This problem occurred on Tuesday, Jun. 22, 2010.
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The vehicle is a 2005 Subaru Outback. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 4S4BP67C25_. Second time this has happened. When in a stopped position and intend to pull out, motor running, but gas pedal does not engage. Push all the way to floor - still nothing. In order to correct, must turn off engine and disconnect battery cable so vehicle can reset itself. Also had problem when sitting still where vehicle began idling as if accelerator being pressed down - lasted 5-10 seconds then backed off. When purchased car used, had problems with cruise control not working and light flashing continuously. Found that injector had to be replaced - apparently tied to cruise mechanism. This corrected the problem but quite expensive to repair. It was Sat., Oct. 29, 2011 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2008 Subaru Impreza. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is JF1GR89678_. Car was parked and locked in my driveway . The horn started blaring and headlights came on. Not car alarm. Interior was filled with smoke. Called fire department then tried to open car with remote to extinguish fire. Had to use key to unlock door. Fire origionated from guages/dash area on drivers side. There were several explosions from car as it burned. Horn continued to blare after fire department extinguished fire. Fire fighters then pried into hood and cut battery cables before horn stopped blaring. Total loss of vehicle. The failure date was 01/11/2009.
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The VIN of the problem Grand Vitara is JS3TD62V43_. Consumer has a 2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The contact experienced difficulty starting the vehicle. He discovered that the battery cable was grounding out against the body of the vehicle, which caused the failure. The contact stated that the vehicle is unsafe due to the current recalls on the vehicle, although he has not experienced any of the failures noted in the recalls. The failure mileage was 70,000. It was Wed., Jul. 23, 2008 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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The car was a 2007 Toyota Tundra. Hello, two day ago I was pulling put of my condo complex when I noticed a burning plastic smell. After about 20 seconds smoke and very small flames started to pour out of the drivers door panel where the switches are located. There was no major fire damage but the car was filled with smoke and the switch that operates the passenger side front window melted down. I fortunately had some tools nearby so I quickly disconnected the battery cables as it was still arcing and sparking. The only switch that works properly is the drivers side front window. The following day I told my CO worker about what happened. Today he showed me the autoblog. Com article regarding the story about Toyotas window switches catching fire. How do I go about reporting this to you guys or someone else. My truck is a 2007 Toyota Tundra double cab 4. 7 v8 2wd trd. It was 02/08/2012 when this battery cable issue happened.
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The vehicle was a 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser. The VIN of this vehicle is JTEHT05J26_. We came home late at Wednesday night sept, 07 2011 around 9:00 pm, saw the tail lights and front amber lights of the 2006 Land Cruiser park at the driveway was on. I went into the house to get the key to unlock the door and locked it back. We went into the house for 10 minutes and came out side and those lights are turn on again. I got the key again and this time I unlock the door and try to start the car and found out the battery are dead, I try very things I can think of to turn those lights off, no luck, I end up to open the hood to disconnect the negative battery cable and found the plastic horn on the ground and had been melted off from the metal horn itself. The next day sept, 08 2011. I took the battery out and put in the garage to charge the battery back up. On Friday sept, 09 2011, I put the battery back on the vehicle and turn the car over, I drove all the way to a local Toyota dealership and told them the problem and make an appointment with them on next Monday sept, 12 2011. Drove the car home , lock the car about 2 hours later came out and found the Land Cruiser lights on again, went to get the key and turn on the engine and this time the dash board light also flashing, the car engine ran for about 3 minutes and suddenly the engine rev up by itself and stayed rev. I step on the brake pedal nothing change, and also try to step on the accelerator pedal and found out that the gas pedal had no respond what so ever with the engine speeding up. Stuck accelerator control? was there any of this been reported? was there a recalled?. The failure date was Sep. 7, 2011.
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The vehicle involved is a 2007 Volkswagen Passat. I started my vehicle, and within 30 seconds I smelled burning. I shut down engine and noticed smoke bellowing out from under hood. I lifted hood and found an electrical harness on top of engine was on fire and melting. I was able to borrow pliers from someone and disconnected battery cable. I had vehicle towed to dealership, and they called me this morning stating that the coil had an internal short. I asked them how I can be assured that this wouldn't happen again when parts are replaced and there reply was " this is very rare". I have a baby less than 2 years old and it scares me to death to think what may of happened if my wife was driving with my child. This issue happened on Friday, Sep. 26, 2008.
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The vehicle involved is a 2006 Volkswagen Passat. The contact attempted to start the ignition and the steering wheel began to lock up. There were two warning indicators illuminated on the instrument panel. The messages displayed were "embolizater activated move steering wheel" and "steering lock defective". In addition, the ignition key was stuck and failed to release. The failures occured without warning. The driver disconnected and reconnected the battery cable to start the vehicle. The vehicle stalled between six to ten times while in operation. The failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was towed from her residence to an independent mechanic. The VIN was unknown. The failure and current mileages were 69,000. This problem occurred on May 18, 2009.
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The VIN of the problem V70 is YV1BW982X8_. The reporting person owns a 2008 Volvo V70. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The contact also smelled gasoline fumes. The contact inspected the vehicle and noticed that the battery was corroded and the cables were stripped. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for inspection and they stated that both the battery and the battery cables needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The failure mileage was 72,000. This battery cable problem happened on July 17, 2013.
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The car involved was a 2006 Volvo Xc90. I drove home from work and messages started to appear warning me of the engine not working properly, low beams not working. Drove it home. Turned it off & wipers would not stop. We unhooked the battery cable using the manual. Took it to have battery tested, bad cell. Replaced battery & wipers quit working, air bag light warning came on. Took to mechanic to have wiper motor tested, it was fine. Took to Volvo, they wanted to replace wiper motor, told them that was not the only problem. Took to different Volvo and they diagnosed, after three hours, the cem was corroded due to a crack in the box that houses it. Wanted $3500 for the repair. I left without it and started to research it. Found out Volvo acknowledged a fault in the seal in a traffic safety report. Contacted Volvo about the repair, started discussions about a good will repair, three weeks later I received a call stating they would not cover any part of it. The Volvo looses power and could be unsafe at any time. There are many discussions of this on different Volvo. I don't understand how Volvo says it is a fault of the part and then refuses to replace it. I am driving it at this time, while I figure out a more economical route. It was Jul. 11, 2011 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2006 BMW 5 Series. Since 2011, I have needed to have my, 2006 BMW 530xi, vehicle serviced. Serviced for trunk leakage, battery cable replacement, sunroof/moonroof non-drainage issues and passenger airbag sensor issues. I have paid perhaps three - to five thousand dollars for alleged repairs. None of those repairs were permanent and the issues continued on/off until 5/10/14. On that day/date I drove the car several hours shopping and preparing for mother's day. When I stopped the engine in my driveway the car shut off but I could not remove the key fob from the ignition. There was no power throughout the vehicle, e. G. No dash lighting, no internal lighting, no alarm light flashing and no ability to lock doors or open the trunk. Neither BMW-n. A. Nor dealership accept any responsibility for the water leakage or other repair issues, even though some manufacturer recalls were announced to the public for these issues, those were said to me to be only for specified VIN numbered vehicles and not mine. I would like to participate in a class action against BMW for these issues and I have saved all my repair receipts to validate my vehicle problems. This issue happened on Saturday, May 10, 2014.
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The contact leased a 2007 BMW 335i. The contact stated that while driving approximately 45 mph, there was a sudden loss of electrical power without warning. The contact mentioned that the positive battery cable was discolored indicating that it was overheating. As a result, there was a connection failure. The vehicle was towed to a private mechanic where the failure was unable to be replicated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and stated that the vehicle was not included in NHTSA campaign number: 13v044000 (electrical system). The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 80,000. This battery cable issue occurred February 11, 2014.
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The owner has a 2002 Buick Regal. The contact stated that when the vehicle was shut off, the engine would resume. The contact had to disconnect the battery cable in order to prevent the engine from operating independently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who was unable to diagnose the vehicle. The manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was unknown. The VIN was not available. It was Mon., Mar. 11, 2013 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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I have a 1997 Buick Riviera that has a security light problem. I try to crank the car and sometimes it will crank other times it wont. I am a young male that normally travels back and forth to work but some mourning's all I can do is pray. It never really bothered me before I have been told that I have the patience of a slug. But today I was pulled over because the brake light in my window was out long story short. I asked the officer if I could leave the car running because of the security problem while he checked my paper work insurance registration etc. He stated for both of our mind states it would best if I turned off the motor. I did as I was asked the officer returned to the car to deliver my drivers license insurance etc. He gave me a warning to get the light replaced then left mean while for the next hour and a half. He returned around 45 minutes later. I am on the side of the highway I tried cleaning the key with a dry rag letting the key set in the ignition until the light turned off. I even unplugged the negative side of the battery cable to let the computer reset its self. I went to gm and had a key made for the car because my first key had the rubber tip removed. So I figured I would get a new key made for the car as well as a new key pad everything worked fine for a day or two. I called gm the manager asked me to come back in and stated that maybe the key was under cut because they had just purchased a new key cutting machine and were still working out the bugs. The car started fine security light came on while I was driving and I just did not let it bother me for a while. Now im informing you guys because my other car was totaled by a hit and run driver while it was on the side of the road about two weeks ago I left it to put air in the spare tire. I hope that we can come to a solution to this problem before its to late for me or anyone else. This problem occurred on Dec. 23, 2011.
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2010 Cadillac Dts. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle electrical system recall notice. It was Tuesday, November 5, 2013 when this battery cable issue occurred.
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Consumer owns a 2005 Cadillac Sts. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle lost power and shut off. The hazard lights were inoperative. The dealer stated that the negative battery cable was loose. The vehicle is currently out of the shop; however, the contact is concerned about the issue and no longer wants the vehicle. The current and failure mileages were 61,000. This battery cable problem happened on Sep. 8, 2008.
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The car involved is a 2002 Jaguar X-type. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is SAJEA51C02_. The engine would quit running, usually when turning right and usually while bouncing over a bump. The car would sometimes show codes relating to the transmission, cylinder misfiring, or the security system failing. Sometimes no codes at all would be stored, and sometimes the car would start back up on its own after a brief moment. Other times it was un-drivable. The underlying issue turned out to be the positive battery cable supplying the fuse box was rubbing against a transmission mount bolt head and grounding out. The failure date was Monday, July 2, 2012.
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|Problem Category||Number of Problems|
|Electrical System problems||
|Instrument Panel problems||
|Ignition Switch problems||
|Horn Assembly problems||
|Dash Wiring problems||
|Car Will Not Start problems||
|Underhood Wiring problems||
|Ignition Module problems||
|Fuses And Circuit Breaker problems||
|Anti-theft Controller problems||
|Battery Dead problems||
|Ignition Coils Failure problems||
|Dashboard Failed problems||
|Battery Cable problems||