Engine Noise problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Engine Noise problems reported in most popular vehicles.
The VIN of this Impala is 2G1WF55E7Y_. Tl-the vehicle involved is a 1999 Chevrolet Impala. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled. When the turning indicator were used there was a load buzzing noised, the check engine light illuminated and then the engine stalled. The vehicle did restart after ten minutes or more. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 200,000. Rg. The failure date was 05/12/2014.
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The car involved is a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox. The VIN of this vehicle was 2CNALPEC5B_. Vehicle has had inordinate transmission noise since around 10k mileage. While vehicle was idling, went into incredibly rough idle, vehicle shaking with warning message about stabilitrack error and vehicle shut down. While this initially happened while idling, it also happened numerous times at speeds from 20-50 mph as reported by spouse. After multiple trips to the dealer for unacceptable engine noise, engine shutting off and cel illumination (seperate issue that has also never been remedied), an issue with the timing chain and fuel pump was alluded to and that a "fix" for this would be available in late spring of 2013. Fuel pump and timing chain replaced at no charge that summer, but similar symptoms continued. Loud, rough idle, intermittent vehicle shutdowns. Eventually took to another dealer who stated it was a throttle body issue and that this somehow was not covered by powertrain warranty even though this "used" to be part of the transmission, it somehow no longer is on newer models. After a $500+ repair, issue hasn't reoccurred in last 3 months (so far), but cel still illuminates during wet conditions (which both dealers cannot seem to fix). I feel this vehicle has been a lemon since about 10k miles and continues to be so. We only own chevy's but between this vehicle and our apparently dangerous '05 cobalt, we can no longer afford to put our trust in chevy and will need to seek out other vehicle manufacturers. It is apparent chevy only cares about the money we can funnel to them for buying american. That will stop with the next vehicle purchase this summer when we turn in the cobalt (for probably next to nothing due to its new safety reputation). I mention this info as we really want to put our faith, trust and money into an american car coportation like chevy and have been overly patient with them. No longer. . . Others need to know about these issues. This problem occurred on 04/02/2012.
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The vehicle was a 2006 Chrysler 300c. In August of 2012 my vehicle had around 76,000 miles and it was the first time I experience my vehicle stalling out and turning off while driving at around 30mphs, I pulled over and tried restarting my vehicle and notice there was loss of power and engine was behaving abnormal. I turned it off and restarted after a few minutes and that's when I hard a loud metallic engine noise. I had my car towed to puente hills Chrysler dealer and they told me I had no compression in a few cylinders, due to their bad customer service I had my vehicle towed to an independent shop that told me this was a common issue with all Chrysler and Dodge vehicle's with the 5. 7l engines. After diagnosing and taking the valve covers off they found the valve seats had dropped and bent the valves. Total cost was $3,500. Now, November 28, 2013 with 100,995 miles on my vehicle, same thing happened again, vehicle stalled at around 10mphs and once again when trying to restart heard the metallic noise coming from the engine area. This time they are charging me $4,000 to have it fix. This problem occurred on 11/28/13.
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The car involved was a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica. While driving on the freeway I glanced in my rear-view mirror and noticed smoke coming from out the back of my Pacifica. I proceeded to exit the freeway at the nearest exit and the car jerked and made a noise. I told my two daughters who were in the car with me not to panic and then drove to the nearest gas station. I assumed the car was overheating and when I pulled up to the pump to put in coolant, someone in the car next to me told me my car was on fire. Three good samaritans pushed my car away from the gas pump, the fire department was called, and I watched the front end of my car burst into flames. The only salvageable part of the car was the rear area. The fire department hosed it down with water and had to use an ax to break open the hood of the car. The car was a total loss and I have contacted Chrysler who will send someone out to investigate the cause. I am awaiting on a response from them currently. This problem occurred on Jun. 3, 2013.
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2014 Dodge Durango. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle hesitation during acceleration. The dealer performed tests, and found nothing wrong with the vehicle. However, the dealer did perform a pcm update. Two days later, the vehicle stalled in traffic. When the consumer applied the accelerator pedal, the vehicle made a strange noise and the check engine light illuminated. She turned the vehicle off and back on again, and the sound stopped, but the check engine light remained lit. While returning to the dealer, the vehicle stalled again. The failure date was 04/05/14.
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The vehicle involved was a 2005 Dodge Durango. Started car in the morning and it started to make engine noise. Took it to dealer. They said the rod bearing is bad. Have to replace engine. This engine noise issue occurred Tuesday, Jan. 1, 2013.
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This is about a 2005 Ford Freestar. When accelerating, specially in rainy conditions, the vehicle's engine makes a screechy noise and loses power. The screechy noise sometimes stops and the vehicle is able to continue moving. Usually when it's wet/rainy the engine loses power and vibrates. It's very dangerous and stressful because it usually happens when attempting to pass slower vehicles on the left lanes and when the vehicle loses power we attempt to move to the right lane's shoulder. Lucky that this happened when traffic was light at 6am. After restarting the engine I drove on side roads to reach my destination. This has happened at least twenty times since 2013. This engine noise issue occurred Thu., May. 15, 2014.
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The car involved was a 2003 Ford Explorer. Submission from constituent re a filed complaint with Ford motor company and would like to be reimburse for all the cost by Ford. The consumer stated when he attempted to start the vehicle, it would not crank. He replaced the battery, but the vehicle still would not start. The vehicle was towed to a local garage. The next day, the consumer was informed, the engine had seized. There was no warning from the dash indicators, no engine sounds, and the oil was at the proper level. It cost $3,669. 98 to replace the engine. It was 02/03/2014 when this engine noise issue happened.
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My 2008 GMC Acadia gave me the scare of my life. I purchased my vehicle just last month and was very proud, I have been dreaming of this car for a while. However while traveling to my sons track meet my Acadia started jerking as if it was not getting any gas and the engine started making a loud humming or buzzing noises on farm market 521. The car slowed down to about 25 miles. Despite my continuing to press the gas pedal. I ended up jerking my way onward with my hazards on. I had cars screeching and flying around me. My kids and I are a nervous wreck. The 521 does not have a shoulder to pull off on. Miles later varying speeds as low as 15 and up to 35 mph I found a gas station (thank god) & pulled over. I powered down waited a few minutes then restarted the car. It started normally but I noticed I could not go into reverse while trying to leave the parking lot. I made my way forward all seemed well but 3-4 minutes into driving on 521 the same thing happened and now my check engine light is on. I started to panic I'm not familiar with the area. This is my first time here & the 521 is the only major road on my gps. I put-putted along and finally made it to the track meet in the middle of nowhere. Called my husband to come and check the car. After his look around he thinks my transmission is going out. He took the children in the suburban while I drove slowly ahead. Then I get a new message - engine hot idle something - I freak out and pull off as soon as I could. He ended up towing me home. I am one week past the 30 day warranty this sucks. I really love my Acadia & am very possessive of her, no one else can drive her, I don't want my kids to touch her. I take excellent care of her, she is clean, driven with love, but just don't understand what happened. I'm scheduling to take her to the shop in the morning, husbands mad but I'm hoping this can be resolved quickly. This problem occurred on Wednesday, March 19, 2014.
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The vehicle involved is a 2007 GMC Yukon xl 1500. The VIN of the problem Yukon is 1GKFK16327_. I took the vehicle to my local GMC dealership located in ithaca, (maquire chevy-Cadillac) near ithaca mall. The vehicle engine sound like if someone was hitting the engine with a hard object, all the lights on the dashboard come on. The service tech told me that they would fix the problem,later that night I picked up the vehicle and drove less than a mile from the dealership and the same noise came back on. Drove back and complain of the problem that being fix and was given a rental car. The next day I was told by the service rep. That a lifter had went on the engine and it would cost approx. 1,600. 00 to fix that problem but when not guarantee any other problems. I took the vehicle to a outside mechanic who advised me that it would be cheaper to put a new engine in it. The service manager looked up his screen and advised me that the vehicle had no recalls on it. I paid $4,774. 84 for a new engine, but GMC did not stand by their product. All I want for labor is $600. 00 and 203. 00 for the rental car. I have receipts to show what was paid and the break of what needed to done to engine. I contacted GMC 1-800 number which was a joke, they listen but refused to do anything. I needed the vehicle to be fix, which was an emergency. Please help. The failure date was Dec. 11, 2013.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 1998 Acura Slx. VIN of the vehicle was JAEDJ58X5W_. Consumer stated she heard knocking and a loud pinging noise coming from the engine. She then pulled over and her husband checked the vehicle and saw that the oil was empty although she had an oil change before the trip. All of the oil spilled from the engine. Engine had blown. This engine noise problem happened on Monday, Oct. 20, 2003.
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The VIN of the car is JAEDJ58X8W_. My 1998 Acura Slx, with 122,000 miles, requires a new engine. The car developed a loud slapping noise and was diagnosed by 2 mechanics as a broken piston skirt. I was told that this is a common issue with these cars - a result of a mismatch between the isuzu engine and the Acura transmission. The failure date was May. 4, 2006.
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The car is a 2004 Honda Odyssey. The VIN of this Odyssey is 5FNRL18924_. 5/6/14 took my vehicle into the local service station for diagnosis of clunking engine noise. Had to pay $1400 to replace both motor mounts that were completely worn out . Also has to replace the outer tie rods that were worn out creating a completely unsafe vehicle. Less than a week later, the d light went black. Suddenly it came back on along with the check engine light. Took vehicle back to the service station and they now diagnosed it with the p0740 code tcc lockup solenoid. Called several transmission shops that told me the only way to fix this is to get a new transmission at a cost of $3500 and up. This is very discerning that the transmission didn't last longer and this is a known problem with this model vehicle and Honda refuses to issue the recall on all 2004 transmissions. There are service bulletins out there referring to this specific issue. I called american Honda and they refused to assist stating the vehicle is way out of warranty to assist financially. I have had all the service done at the dealer until there was an issue last year with the heating/air conditioner that the dealer was unable to successfully fix after 6 visits and numerous coolant flushes. I have no faith in that local dealership to help. Now I'm stuck with a money pit and can't afford to replace it. Never again Honda. They have certainly lost my loyalty after all this. We dealt with the same issue with the 2003 Acura tls transmissions that were bad, 3 transmissions later and no help from Honda who knowingly covered up their faulty transmission problems and left consumers footing the bill. This issue happened on 05/12/14.
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The car involved is a 2013 Honda Pilot. While driving in florida and louisiana, I noticed a low-frequency buzzing sound and vibration which could be felt through the steering wheel and floorpan. I believe it is associated with the variable cylinder management (vcm) feature. It could be felt when the vcm transitioned from 6 to 4 cylinder mode, with the rpm of 1700-1900 and speeds of approximately 25, 45 and 60 mph. It would occur with very light accelerator pressure, just maintaining speed, and disappear when accelerator pressure was increased, causing it to downshift and/or the vcm to transition back to 6 cylinder mode. This problem is less evident here in colorado springs (6000 ft elevation), which I cannot explain. I did not have this problem with a 2008 Pilot nor a 2008 odyssey, both of which had a similar vcm feature. My local Honda tech could "not duplicate" my concern and said it was "operating normally". The transmission also "hunts" between 4th and 5th gear. The failure date was Wednesday, January 15, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2007 Hyundai Sonata. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 5NPET46C07_. The car was making a noise when I started it. The noises got worse as I drove to work. Then the car died twice while in route on the interstate. The oil light came on. The heat gauge was normal. I notices smoke in the rear view mirror. I turned on the hazard flashers and began to get to the shoulder of the road. When I stopped the smoke got worse. I called work. The dotd roadside assistance showed up. I got out of the car and walked back toward him. He asked where my purse was. I turned back to the car and noticed flames coming from under the hood. He got my valuables out of the car, called the fire department and police. The flames were several feet high by the time they got the fire out. I called a tow truck. A fellow worker came and took me to work. It was Wednesday, April 9, 2014 when this engine noise issue happened.
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The vehicle involved is a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. Took my car in to Hyundai dealership in concord, CA on approx. March 17th of this year for previous complaints of engine suddenly shutting off while driving. Was told at that time that no error codes were recorded by the car's computer and that Hyundai mechanics could not find any mechanical issues with the vehicle. They then talked to Hyundai engineers and decided that possibly the cars throttle bodies could be a problem and told me they would do a "good will" replacement of this auto part. Since that time, I have driven the car approximately 1k miles without incident, until this past Saturday may 18 2013. I was in stop and go traffic, going at speeds between 5-15 mph. I pushed the brake to do a gradual slow, then went to push the accelerator but there was no power. I looked down to see my dash lights were present, but no engine sound. I slowed the car to a complete stop, turned the ignition off, then turned it on and the engine started right up. Again, as previous, no error messages appeared on my dash. The car has been driven without incident so far 200 miles since this last incident. The dealership has asked me to bring the car in and allow them test drive the car for a day hoping that this intermittent problem will occur for them. It appears to be connected to hitting the brakes, slowing, then attempting to accelerate. All times this so far this has occurred while driving on an incline. The vehicle currently has 35, 500 miles. This issue happened on Saturday, May 18, 2013.
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For the last year the engine of my 2003 Infiniti I35 has been making a noise upon acceleration (while the engine is under stress) especially on inclines. I have brought the vehicle to pepe Infiniti, they've duplicated the noise, yet they haven't done anything to rectify the problem although the vehicle is still under the manufacturer's warranty. I have contacted the Infiniti corporate office to no avail. I am filing a complaint to hopefully get some resolution regarding this matter. This engine noise issue occurred 06/27/06.
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The car is a 2004 Infiniti G35. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Infiniti G35 is JNKCV51E14_. Car fire. . My car caught fire while in my office parking lot. I noticed a buzzing noise in my door panel when I rolled my window up. This may be coincidental , 15 minutes later while inside my office I notice my car in flames. The car is a total loss. I had never received any recalls for my car so something is terribly wrong. I was not injured thank god. The fire dep. Said this was the 2nd infinity in 2 weeks they have put out fire on. The failure date was March 29, 2007.
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The vehicle involved is a 2011 Jeep Cherokee. Car engine unexpectedly stopped while driving, losing all power and brakes. Car had sat in below freezing temperatures for a week. There were no flashing warning lights nor any buzzing sounds of overheating as stated in the car manual would indicate immediate action was needed. Parking brake was used to stop and engine was damaged beyond repair. It was Jan. 12, 2014 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved was a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 1C4RJFAG6C_. April 5, 2013, less than a year (purchased - 2012 Jeep grande cherokee laredo) the check engine light went on, took vehicle to service department, and informed my service provider (Jeep dealership) there is a "problem" with the cylinder head. Very disturbing because the vehicle was purchased brand new, less than 10k miles and already a major part must be replaced on a "brand new" vehicle. I am informed that is not a common, and there are several other owners with the same problem "check engine light on". Repair took more than three days, because the entire engine must be taken out to replace these two cylinders. Very alarming and very concerned for the future of this vehicle, what else could possibly go wrong next? two months later, driver side seat must be replaced due to cracks in the "leather". Two months after, brakes are making strange noises, acceleration very slow, stalls, must press very hard on gas pedal for vehicle to pick up speed, very frightening especially when entering the freeway. Door panels appears loose, the doors (3) will not stay open, requires extra push and hold before it stays open by itself. To close the door I must literally slam the door, otherwise not shut, very disturbing because my childrens sit back there. Hopefully this is my last encounter the cameras (back) of vehicle flash on and off, I am very concern especially when the position of the driver seat makes looking back very difficult, the camera cannot be functioning inefficiently. The vehicle has a 3/year or 36,000 mile warranty and with the amount of issues I have encountered I do not find that to be sufficient or even utterly appropriate. I purchased a brand new vehicle not a used. If there were no warranties I could not imagined paying out of pocket thousands of dollars on repairs. This engine noise issue occurred 04/05/2013.
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The vehicle is a 2014 Kia Motor Forte. I have a 2014 kia Forte since September 2013 acquired several days the unit is started having a vibration in the engine. These vibrations are felt throughout the car and when in low or stopped. I took him to the service center where you buy and service technicians always tell me that no faults everything is working well, the vibration that I describe is normal in these cars, this due to the technology of motor bracket. As of today I'm not happy and I understand that the drive is failing. I'm really disappointed with the explanation given me the service center. A new car zero miles per more technology should not have to have much vibration in the engine. Further details of the unit that are wrong are the strange sounds of the valves and the sound engine braking. It was 09/17/2013 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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The car involved is a 2012 Kia Motor Sorento. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 5XYKTDA2XC_. At 5:40pm mst on 03/20/2014, I was approaching a 4-way intersection in a residential area at approximately 15 mph intending to stop and then make a right turn. Traffic going my direction had stop signs and cross traffic did not. There was one other car approaching the intersection from my left. Without warning, my 2012 kia Sorento completely shut off (engine, electrical and electronic). It happened silently and without dashboard warning lights or engine noise. I was not able to fully stop or turn at the intersection as my car had lost power brakes, power steering and any ability to accelerate. When the car came to a rest, it was at a diagonal, partially blocking the intersection and facing the wrong way toward any oncoming traffic to my right (there was none at the time). The car was still in drive and the ignition was still in the fully-forward engaged position, but there were no dashboard lights illuminated and the motor was dead. The other car that had been approaching to my left was able to stop in time to avoid my car, and he drove around me and continued on. I put on my hazard lights. For the first 15 seconds or so, I was unable to get the car to shift into neutral or park. Eventually, I was able to get the gear shift to move to park, but the car would not turn on despite my turning the the ignition off and on multiple times. I was about to get out and call a tow truck when the dashboard lights suddenly came back on. At that point, I was able to restart to car and drive to my destination. The car did not show any signs of a problem in the time immediately before or after this incident. We dropped off the car at the dealership the next morning 3/21/2014. At the time of this writing, the dealer has not been able to recreate the problem, nor have they found any codes on the car's computer. This is potentially an extremely dangerous problem. This issue happened on Thursday, March 20, 2014.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is SALNM22262_. My 2002 Land Rover Freelander has experienced sluggish acceleration to a jolt and dowshifts on its own at freeway speed. About 2 weeks after buying it used I took it to a local repair shop and they said I needed a new transmission, had it towed back to the dealer and they said it didn't. Needless to say they wouldn't replace it. It has a overheating problem which is continuous. The engine sounds like it has no oil in it, even after an oil change I have to check it to make sure because the noise is so loud. The hdc light comes on and the vehicle seems to drive in an almost 4wheel low at all times. There was antifreeze in my oil. This vehicle has major problems!!!!!!!!. This engine noise problem happened on Jun. 30, 2006.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2007 Lexus Rx350. Driving on the highway my wife noticed a film on the back window as we were headed from onalaska WI to eau claire WI about 20 miles from eau claire the oil lamp started to flicker then came on solid. We also heard a flapping sound. We were not sure what was going on we stopped at a kwik trip gas station and checked the oil dip stick and noticed no oil. Also checked the back of the car had oil film purchased 4 quarts of oil and drove to the nearest quick lube they discovered a serious leak coming from a small hose off the oil filter area I am concerned we may have engine damage. Why were we not notified by Lexus?? thanks. It was 10/04/2013 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 2T2ZK1BA3A_. The engine makes a noise like a sloppy piston or a rod knocking. The car is a 2010 Lexus Rx350 with 69,000 miles. What is interesting here IA the fact that the issue was discussed with the service group on a recent confrence call but the staff was told to keep it quiet. Is Toyota playing the games again?. This engine noise issue occurred Sun., Oct. 10, 2010.
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The car involved is a 1998 Lincoln Town Car. Going up hill in 2 inches of snow, vehicle started slipping, traction control motor made noise. Consumer applied gas pedal and engine would not rev up. As stated in owners manual. Engine stalled. When the traction control came on, the vehicle could only go 32 mph, and when accelerator was let off, the engine cut off. It was Sun., Dec. 3, 2000 when this engine noise issue happened.
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The VIN of this vehicle was 5LMFU27535_. Ltr from senator hutchison on behalf of constituent, re problems with her 2005 Lincoln Navigator. The consumer stated there was a noise coming from the engine. The front end vibrated constantly. The consumer was informed the track bar and cad mount bushings needed to be replaced to correct the vibrating. The sunroof leaked, the cd changer scratched the cd's, the drivers seat was repaired 3 times, the tire pressure sensor didn't work, the remote start did not work, the transmission was slipping, the rear windows were grinding, the drivers side door would not open, the mirror would not adjust and the wipers were replaced. The consumer stated after two years of being told there was nothing wrong with the vehicle, it finally broke down and the dealer had to perform major engine work. After the engine work was completed the consumer stated the engine continued to make noise and there was also hesitation problems. Updated 03/01/10. This issue happened on Wednesday, August 31, 2005.
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The car was a 2007 Mazda Cx-7. Driving on my way to tennessee, the car had a major power loss and screeching noise from inside the engine bay. The car was taken to the closest Mazda dealership and was told that the turbo had to be replaced due to engine sludge. The car had regular oil changes using the proper amount and oil weight. Mazda had a recall involving the turbo and they did not honor it because I was about 1000 miles over the extended warranty. This engine noise problem happened on 08/15/2012.
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The vehicle was a 2008 Mazda Tribute. The contact stated that when depressing the acceleration pedal at any speed, there was a revving noise as the acceleration pedal vibrated. The failure was recurring and would become more prominent when driving in inclement weather. There was also an increase in engine rpms. The vehicle was not included in NHTSA campaign id number: 12v357000 (engine and engine cooling, vehicle speed control) but the contact stated that the vehicle exhibited the same failure multiple times with a 4-cylinder stick shift. The vehicle was to be inspected, diagnosed and repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 35000. The failure date was Tue., Feb. 1, 2011.
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The vehicle was a 2002 Mercedes Benz C Class. I have a 2002 Mercedes Benz c240 sedan with 78,000 miles on it. Upon leaving work two weeks ago driving down the parking lot in second gear the car started to make the worst engine noise I ever heard. I shut the car off and had it towed to a dealer and they tell me the timing chain broke. If I was traveling down an interstate and this broke and the engine lost power who knows what would have happened. This in not the first problem I had with the car I have a service file full of problems and spent a lot of time and money on things like front coil springs which also could be very dangerous when they break and I lose control of the car. This problem occurred on Tuesday, Feb. 19, 2008.
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The car involved is a 2011 Mercury Milan. Driving on a straight away the vehicle suddenly makes a noise as if it were shifting very hard although it was not. Immediately lost acceleration and dashboard light illuminates. Pulled vehicle to the side of the road and rpm needle bounced as car lunged but would not accelerate. Called for roadside assistance and my dealer's service department who knew based on my description a possible cause. Vehicle towed to dealer, diagnostics proved throttle body needed to be replaced. Repair made. Research proved that this is a known problem but no recall has been made. It was a very foggy morning and several multi car accidents had been reported. Had I been on busier stretch of road at the time of the break down I could have easily been killed with slowing down suddenly and without any evident cause. A recall should be issued and refunds made to those who have already experienced this failure. This problem occurred on Wednesday, Oct. 30, 2013.
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The vehicle involved is a 2005 Mercury Sable. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1MEFM55S95_. Idles, makes noises, vibrates, drives by itself with out stopping during idling, don't shift into gears properly. It was Feb. 8, 2012 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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The car was a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is JA4LX31F54_. Upon light acceleration, without engaging a gear change, engine? will lose compression/power, tach fall 500-700 rps as speedometer rises. Engine ticks. Intermittent wipers speed decreases when vehicle at stop, air circulation fan speed decreases when vehicle at stop, brakes making noise. Despite repeated attempts to contact dealership and manufacturer, no one returns my call. This issue happened on 06/01/2004.
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The car involved is a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander. The VIN of this Outlander is JA4LZ31F54_. There is a number of complaints with this vehicle. The first is engine noise (loud "ticking, " clicking" noise) this all the time. It was taken in a number of times and every time something was changed and I was told it was fixed. The noise is still there! the keyless entry module was replaced for erratic lock and light function, however it has not fixed the problem. The vehicle pulls to the right and "scuffs" the tires ( we have rotated the tires at about every 1500 miles to try to prevent this). I have taken it in for service and was told alignment was ok, and there was nothing wrong with the vehicle! there is also a constant "thumping,clunking" noise from front end over bumps(was told unable to fix or duplicate). Lastly, this vehicle has a intermittent severe hesitation or sometimes no power. I was told "unable to duplicate" and every thing was ok with the vehicle. All the work was done by the dealer were I purchased it, and I believe they are tired of seeing me!. The failure date was Tuesday, January 3, 2006.
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The vehicle was a 2005 Nissan Xterra. Driving with family on interstate 5 on the right lane going 60-62 mph. Without no light sensor warning from the Xterra or no other warning whatsoever, it slowed down drastically from 60mph to 30mph, and I can see fast moving vehicles passing me. There was a huge semi truck behind us, he started to flash his high beam on us from behind. I try to accelerate but it would not, it just make a very loud engine sound. The semi truck so close behind us, I got scared, I signal right to pull over to the shoulder and doing so we almost got hit by another car that was merging to the freeway because the Xterra was very slow. We pulled to the shoulder, put in park and the Xterra has a weird smell coming out of the engine front. I try to shift to drive but it didn't move. I try to shift to reverse to park the Xterra in a better position off the freeway but it didn't move. Two hours later, the tow truck arrive. I was extremely upset our entire family could have been kill because there was no warning light. This engine noise problem happened on 12/29/13.
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The vehicle involved is a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder. The VIN of the problem Pathfinder is 5N1AR2MN0D_. Passenger airbag light illuminates as disabled when an adult passenger occupies the seat. Sensor has been reprogrammed but condition still exists. Dealer claims no codes are stored. Manufacturer has been notified. Recall did not affect my vehicle due to production date. Idle has been re-learned several times. Tachometer will drop below 500 as if vehicle is going to stall. Now I am experiencing loss of traction. Tires spin and squeal while just trying to pull out in to traffic. Had vdc light illuminate and shut off after 5 seconds in completely dry conditions. Had metal scraping sound, left wheel bearing and control arm was replaced. Took in to dealer a couple weeks ago for similar metal sound on left side, they claimed backplate bent in to rotor. Metal on metal sound still occurring. Called Nissan to file yet another claim requesting that they absorb negative equity, since my original claim for them to repurchase vehicle was denied. There is something seriously wrong with this car. The failure date was Wednesday, Jun. 12, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2001 SAAB 95. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is YS3DF58K71_. After bringing in to dearler many times for "engine light" and being told it was nothing I proceeded with maintenance. Due to late oil change dealer claims, after oil change, and complaint from me that there was a flutter sound in the system; they offer to repair for approx 3500 with no guarantee. My car is not abused and is new. After discussing with outside repair it seems this is a problem due to the oil used by SAAB. Apparently there are presently six other vehicles at outside repair shops changing oil brand and flushing for perfect results. Those outside sources charge approx $350. Personally I have only owned new vehicles over the past twenty years. All first quality: Honda, BMW, Volvo, Jaguar, SAAB,. The failure date was 10/15/2001.
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The car involved was a 2003 Saturn Vue. Several problems - gas gauge not working, numerous rattles and squeaks, weird engine noises, thermostat out, misc warning lights. It was 02/28/04 when this engine noise issue happened.
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VIN of the vehicle was JT4RN81A1N_. 2002 Saturn Vue (65,000 miles) making noise. Would not start, towed to mechanic. Timing chain failure causing engine damage. Estimated cost is $3000; loss of vehicle for at least a week while being repaired. Currently at the mechanics awaiting repair. This problem occurred on 09/26/2006.
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The vehicle is a 2012 Subaru Impreza. Addendum to 12/30/13 complaint: in addition to the previously outlined problems: 1. Car is now loosing oil. At 26,500 miles the low oil level light came on. Checked oil level and revealed car had lost approx 1. 5-2 qt since last regularly scheduled oil change. 2. Brakes squeal when you first compress the pedal. I had the brakes inspected and was told nothing was wrong with them or the brake pad. I do not think this is normal to occur every time you touch the brakes unless something is wrong. Brakes did not start making noise until 25,000 miles. * confidence this car is trustworthy. Seriously worried about its reliability/ cost to repair after warranty expires. **. This engine noise issue occurred Wed., Jan. 1, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2001 Subaru Forester. Driving n on i5 highway when car made noises, pulled over & would not start again. Towed in. Was told that engine was dead. Car had just been serviced by dealer. Had to buy new engine. Subaru would not take any responsibility. Car had very low mileage & was in good shape. When doing research, found that this was an ongoing and common problem with all vehicles with 2. 5l engine and due to defective head gasket. This issue happened on Thursday, July 14, 2011.
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The vehicle involved was a 2006 Suzuki Forenza. For approximately year prior to the incident date indicated on this form, 06/05/2012, my vehicle has malfunctioned sporadically in the way(s) I am about to describe. Since 6/05/2012, the malfunction has occurred and worsened every time I drive. Upon the initial gear shift from "park" to "reverse," my Suzuki Forenza jerks. After the shift, the dashboard displays a "p," despite being in reverse. When I shift to drive, I feel a jerk, and my dashboard displays a multitude of things; at times it remains a "p," and at other times it shows "n" for neutral, "r" for reverse, a simple "d," or a flashing "d" with a diagonal line through it. As I press the gas to accelerate, my rpm's increase, the engine revs, but my car does not move forward for a period of anywhere from 10 seconds to a full minute. The vehicle then jerks and shoots forward very quickly, which is greatly hazardous and alarming. Once my vehicle is in motion on the road, a separate but seemingly related incident occurs at various speeds- I can be on a neighborhood street or the interstate. All of a sudden, it feels as if my car is shifting itself into neutral and is still moving due to momentum. Although I immediately remove my foot from the gas pedal, my rpm's shoot up into the 6/7 range, the engine sounds as if it is going to explode, and the vehicle jerks. At this time, the dashboard displays a number of different shifts, alternating from the flashing "d," to, "p," and so on. I have researched this issue and found that hundreds of other Suzuki Forenza owners have experienced the same malfunction, due to the transmission sensor. It may be a relatively easy and inexpensive fix, but that doesn't lesson the severity. This vehicle has had 4 other safety recalls thus far, and I am enraged that it is has not been recalled entirely due to this widespread and extremely dangerous malfunction. This engine noise issue occurred Jun. 5, 2012.
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The car was a 2001 Suzuki xl-7. I have a 2001 Suzuki xl-7 the ac compressor started making a noise when you turned it on. And then one day we where driving down the road and I turned the air on and my vehicle died. We coasted off the road and tried to start it, but nothing. So, I turned the switch off to the air and the vehicle started back. I had to replace the compressor which was not cheap. And now it is starting to make the same noise I before. Which I can't afford another 900. 00 to replace this one. And Suzuki refused to do anything. I also told them about the vehicle stalling out the middle of the road when the compressor went out. They didn't care. This engine noise problem happened on Sunday, April 15, 2007.
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The car involved was a 2003 Toyota Camry. The car had a crash. I pulled into a parking space, stopped, and was in the process of pulling up the emergency brake, when the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The car bolted going over the parking curb and continuing on into a building, all with no momentum as the car was stopped. One witness said it was a very loud revving sound. Two others said it sounded like a truck. The person who was behind me said my brake lights were on. This problem occurred on May. 8, 2014.
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The car involved is a 2008 Toyota Highlander. The VIN of this Highlander is JTEES43A28_. High pressure oil cooler line failure of rubber hose section dumped 5 qts of engine oil soaking undercarriage and spraying onto nearby hot exhaust pipe and right rear tire. No indication of loss of oil pressure on vehicle monitoring system. Noticed a faint smell of burnt oil when vehicle was parked. Returned later to start vehicle and heard audible engine noise and turned of engine to investigate under hood, a noticable puddle of oilhad accumulated under car. Vehicle towed for diagnoses and repair. The failure date was Wednesday, March 5, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2012 Volkswagen Jetta. 20k service had been performed on my car, again I notified vw that the noise is progressively getting worse and that I can no longer stand it. I also notified them of newer issues that have never happened before starting to happen, but they told me lets fix this issue first before moving on. This noise that had been happening for awhile now has now progressively gotten louder and now making noises when I am turning, something it had never done before. They did a check, and all of the sudden told me that my tires is the cause of the whole thing. They had told me my tires are cupped and feathered, which seem pretty odd considering when I purchased the vehicle the tire where brand new and pretty good (hankook). It did not make sense to me because if it was my tires and if they were doing proper multipurpose inspections they would have caught this when rotating my tires. It really seemed like they couldn't figure it out so they just advised me to buy some brand new tires, or try to call the manufacture about replacements, well I did that and hankook said feathered tires has nothing to do with tire but with the mechanics of the car. They had notified me that the only way tires get bad is if the mechanics of the car. The manger word for word told me this "there is a reasno why your car is so cheap, maybe you should buy $2,000. 00 tires, maybe the noise might go away", which infuriated me, because he is suppose to be the manager, but yet treats me with total disrespect and told me "we are done with this, we will not look into it anymore". This manager was rude and down right wrong to treat me like so (kearny messa vw, don't ever go there). I felt lost and scared knowing that they won't help me no more even though I still have my warranty. This engine noise issue occurred 09/13/2013.
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The vehicle is a 2014 Volkswagen Passat. Turbocharger failed. Started making noises, then power losses, then dashboard lights. By the time I got to the dealership, it was no longer drivable. Dealership diagnosed turbocharger failure due to 'internal malfunction' and stated that it was not a problem that could have been caused by driving style, external factors. This issue happened on Mar. 21, 2014.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2009 Audi A4. Recently done oil change with synthetic oil (Audi recommended) which should last for 10,000 miles before another oil change is needed. Unfortunately after a month and half of driving oil levels are showing half of the oil gone. Engine is making noise and lot of co2 being clogged up. Running heavy causes to use lot of fuel. Feels as if engine may get too hot after eating up excess amount of oil. This problem occurred on Sunday, January 26, 2014.
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The car involved is a 2008 BMW X3. While driving at about 25 mph on residential street, felt an unusual "bump", continued driving home with no apparent problem. Started car next morning and felt an unusual vibration and noise which dissapeared when driving. Vibration at idle continued, two days later, after driving on freeway, I found a broken bolt under the car in garage, I immediately took car to dealer service department. Was told that several motor mount bolts had sheared and was lucky no serious damage occurred. Quick internet search indicated sheared motor mount bolts to be a problem with BMW X3 years 2007 & 2008. Broken motor mount bolts could result in serious accident and/or injury - again, I was lucky. This problem occurred on April 8, 2013.
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The car was a 2008 BMW 328xi. While driving a loud bang was heard. The car made noise after that driving it. The car was then taken to the dealership, and upon examination it was discovered the mounting bolts ( aluminum ) for right engine support arm broke. They were replaced by the dealership as they said it was a flaw in the engine bolts. The car had 40,984 miles. This engine noise problem happened on 11/07/11.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1G4HP52K3W_. I have a 1998 Buick Lesabre. The car stopped when it was pulled into the gararge and when I tried to start it again, it made a screeching sound. The car was towed to a mechanic. The mechanic advised the starter "exploded" because fluid was leaking from the pleneum into the cylinders and starter. The mechanic advised it would cost over $800. 00 to repair. This issue happened on Oct. 12, 2011.
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The vehicle involved was a 2013 Cadillac Srx. After coming to a stop sign or traffic light, I will try to push my gas pedal and the Srx will move about 2 feet or so and then completely stop. This has happened 4 or 5 times and because the dealership cannot recreate the problem, they say there's nothing they can do. The Srx doesn't make any noise while pushing the pedal, it just acts as if the car is turned off. The only way to make it move again is if I change it into reverse or neutral and then back into drive. I've been almost killed at different intersections on several different occasions since I bought the car in July of 2013. The cue system is also having some issues such as the radio will completely stop working for several minutes at a time even though it shows that I'm pushing buttons to change the channel or volume. I owned a 2011 Srx before and never had this problem. I'm 8 months pregnant and afraid that I'll end up in a deadly vehicle crash. Please help!. It was 09/09/2013 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Cadillac Cts is 1G6DR57V88_. Although I loved the car overall at the time I decided to own, , my dream car Cadillac Cts has turned into my dream nightmare. Cadillac Cts 3. 6 2008 when I get on it a little bit acceleration it makes a sound that sounds like all air leaks inside the car. The dealer was reported ever since my first early visit to service center but it's only during my last visit to the dealer they mentioned gm has sanctioned approval ie. At the time the odometer reads 65000km? strange! the door locks are terrible?despite rectifying; time and again by your dealer the problem still persist to date. Safety hazard indeed. The computer had error as for tyre low air pressure very bad on safety standards. On 12th Aug 2012 while I was en-route to the Cadillac service center the vehicle had a break down. On the display screen near odometer it displayed engine temperature too high ?. Due to this I had to pull the car towards safety and got stranded in the middle of the road under the hot sun. How can you justify a car which is regularly maintained by your authorized agency at regular periodic intervals to have such a fate? I felt it was good to have it serviced during my absence in town before the regular km interval; but, only to get stranded on the road in the hot sun. It is indeed, too much to suffer after buying a car of gm flagship brand < Cadillac > and suffer agony on the road side. Not to mention the dealerships warranty you provide with the purchase of the new car from your authorized agents, probably don't fix anything with the warranty service program. If the job was right then the engine should not have over heated especially when the car is just run 71000 kms. Approx. . . It was Aug. 12, 2012 when this engine noise issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved is a 2004 Jaguar X-type. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is SAJEA51C44_. When turning on the engine a noise was hear by my son. I took the car to the mechanic and he said that the flywheel is loosen and that's why you hear that noise from the low side of the engine. This issue happened on March 25, 2014.
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|Problem Category||Number of Problems|
|Engine And Engine Cooling problems||
|Car Stall problems||
|Engine Cooling System problems||
|Manifold/header/muffler/tail Pipe problems||
|Check Engine Light On problems||
|Gasoline Engine problems||
|Engine Belts And Pulleys problems||
|Engine Exhaust System problems||
|Engine Stall problems||
|Engine Oil Leaking problems||
|Engine Shut Off Without Warning problems||
|Engine Failure problems||
|Gas Recirculation Valve (egr Valve) problems||
|Emission Control problems||
|Engine Clicking And Tapping Noises problems||
|Engine Burning Oil problems||
|Catalytic Convertor problems||