132 problems related to electrical system have been reported for the 2010 Ford Escape.
My fan did not operate on the normal #1 setting but ok on the other settings. When I took it in to repair it I was told a board went out that caused the failure, the cause of that was from condensation from the ac tubing dripping on another board and caused both boards to go out. They had to replace both boards and reroute the ac line so it wouldn't happen again. I paid $954. 06 for poor design/construction.
Without any warning or previous issues, my vehicle stalled several times when making turns and approaching stop lights. Battery checked out (had just replaced two weeks prior but had it tested again anyways. ) at the time the battery was tested, I did not have an engine light on. An hour later a "wrench" light and the engine light came on. I received a computer diagnosis and it came back that the throttle body actuator was bad. I was almost rear ended the first time this happened yesterday morning because I was in the middle of a turn.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the rear hatch door activator latch switch mechanism seized, which prevented the door from opening. In addition, the panel lights failed. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 59,000.
I heard alert chime, looked at instrument cluster. Traction control, wrench, battery, abs, airbag, and brake lights were all on. Speedometer, tachometer, and temp gauge were all reading zero, fuel gauge appeared to be working. Radio volume speed compensation stopped working, a/c compressor shut down, fan stayed running. Driver information center was reading ____miles to e, fuel level low. After a few more minutes, the tire pressure light started flashing, and new message alternated on the driver information center tire pressure monitor fault. Then it just as suddenly, went back to normal. Now the same thing repeats repeats on and off almost every 5 minutes of driving or so. When I researched this on internet I find this problem is so common there is a company advertising mail order repairs for $199. 00 problem is cold solder joints on instrument cluster.
Took my car to harrold Ford on howe avenue dealership and was told that the car has been worked on and picked up the car and didn't get far and the car stalled. Re-started the car and barely made it back home and called harrold Ford and told them what had happened and they told me to bring the car back and we had it towed to their facility again and received a call in the afternoon and was told that the car is ready to be picked up and we drive over there and the car stalled after a couple of blocks and had it towed to their facility again and the next day we received a call from harrold Ford and told us that there is nothing they can do for us and to pick up my car. " your car is a salvaged title" we took the car home via tow truck and we had a mechanic take a look at the throttle body and he said that it was never replaced! I feel that the couple of times that we drove that car put me and my grandchildren in a great danger and I thank god that we didn't get into an accident and the car only drove 2 blocks and I told harrold Ford that we brought my car for recall parts and now my car is not even driveable. Totally dead!.
My car cut off while I was driving & when I was at a stop light. The car came to a sudden stop in the middle of an intersection (completely losing all power) a large SUV swerved to prevent from hitting me. I immediately took the car to the vic bailey Ford, they kept my car on & off for 5 days. Charging me $98 for a diagnostic test (that they stated revealed nothing about the problem) & then they turned around & charged me #130 for a new battery, the car continued to cut off on me. They kept my car for another 3 days. Finally they called me & told me to come pick up the car. The service dept. Stated that they didn't know what was wrong w/ the car, but they knew something was wrong w/ it. They told me to wait til the problem got worst. They sent me home w/ a car that cuts off constantly, they don't care that I need to drive a dependable car. I'm an educator/state employee that doesn¿t have all this money to keep putting my car into the shop & missing days from work. They don¿t care that I have a young son who rides in that car w/ me to school. They don't care that by driving that car my life & my son life is (was) put in danger. All they saw was a black single mother that they thought they could tell anything to. I have spoken with the service mgr. (no help) Ford rep (no help) the customer service mgr. (no help). It is awful, that in 2015 an America woman is treated w/ such disrespect & pushed to the side. Ford made this car, they sale this car, so they should be able to fix the car. Ford should make reliable cars for the consumer. Who is suppose to help when the big vic bailey Ford, vic bailey Honda, vic bailey Ford repair shop, Ford motor company, & Ford service all do nothing to fix this issue? by putting this information out to the public I hope to make others aware of the treatment that I have received & make sure this doesn¿t happen to anyone else.
2010 Ford Escape. Consumer stated periodically, he had difficulty inserting the key into the ignition.
Tl- the contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled several times with no warning and the vehicle was taken to the dealer more than twice who diagnosed it several times with no remedy and the throttle body was replaced however the failure recurred . The mechanic mentioned that there was a fuel nozzle versus a fuel cap and the fuel was not properly circulating within the system which was causing the failure and the computer sends a signal which was shutting off the vehicle. The contact continued to experience the condition progressing randomly with no warning. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and they provided no remedy. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000. Dyd.
The first time this happened I was coming to a stop during rush hour traffic in Feb 2014. I was slowing down to stop when I noticed the red battery & wrench light come on. When I tried to accelerate the vehicle wouldn't move & the engine was off. I attempted to restart the vehicle several times with no luck. The dash lights & radio would work but it wouldn't start. I had to be pushed out of traffic. While waiting for the tow truck I tried again & it started (approximately after 15 min). I immediately took it to the Ford dealer. They "supposedly" fixed it under a recall. It just happened again (oct 2014) to me while coming to a stop during rush hour. Again the lights turned red and the engine died. I attempted to restart several times without any luck. The dash lights & radio worked but it wouldn't start. Finally after several attempts it started again. I'm waiting for my appointment with the Ford dealer. This issue needs to be reviewed before someone gets seriously hurt given that the engine dies without notice. Plus the "repair" didn't work!.
Vehicle had exited from freeway and was stopped on an exit ramp stop light. When gas was pushed to move vehicle from stopped position, the engine accelerated but the vehicle would not move forward. Initially, the wrench light appeared on dash and then later, this disappeared and the check engine light came on. Vehicle was taken to a nearby auto parts facility where a computer code evaluation was completed- this yielded the same code appearing 3 times: a problem involving the throttle actuator control system sensor. The technician stated that when the same problem code appears 3 times during the check, this accurately pin-points the problem.
While traveling on i495 at a steady highway speed of 68mph the car without warning dropped to idle speed with rapid deceleration. The engine did not shut down but ran approx. 800-900rpm. We pulled to the side of the to avoid being hit from behind. I had to shut the car off and restart to get any throttle response. I traveled off the interstate on slower roads to get home for fear of this happening at high speed again. It has happened three more time both at high speed and acceleration from a stop. It was back to the Ford dealer for the recall 13b17 on 7/7/14. There have been two more events of no power from stop and low power at highway speed since the TSB was performed. No parts have been replaced, no codes set.
I was driving along and my car stopped receiving input from the gas pedal at 50 mph entering the highway. This happened a month ago. This has happened twice as well as my car taking off when I accelerate from stopped position. Today 7/31/14 the gas pedal failed to work again when in a turn thank god nobody was behind me. You guys know there is a throttle body issue with all these Ford Escapes but yet you let them get away with this. Does someone have to die from a rear end collision because the trottle stays closed on the highway? people's lives are at stake here. My wife and kid are in this car what happens I go to pull out and it decides to just stay stuck halfway into the lane bam I get t boned then have to sue everyone that knew about this issue.
While traveling 60 mph on I-45 south of houston, TX. My 2010 Ford Escape lost power. I immediately had to manuver across 3 lanes of traffic while coasting to a stop. Luckily I was not hit!!! I turned the vehicle off and allowed it to sit for a few minutes. I restarted it and the orange wrench symbol appearred on the dash. I turned it off and restarted it again. This time the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I drove the vehicle home with limited operation, decreased engine power and and vehicle speed. I experienced failure one more time during this trip. When I had the diagnostic trouble codes (dtc) pulled it was p2111, "throttle body stuck open. " researching it on the internet revealed NHTSA action number pe13003.
The first incident occurred approximately 2months ago (April 2014) as I was driving on a state road (new circle rd in lexington ky)at around 60mph during my morning commute around 8am. The vehicle seemingly stalled but all the systems were fine (still had power steering, lights, radio, braking system etc) with the exception of the accelerator which didn't do anything when I put my foot on the gas. I was able to coast over to the side of the road turned the engine off, sat for about 5 mins & was able to continue on the road without further issue (the check engine light didn't even come back on). The most recent date was 06/07/14 with my family in the car as passengers. I was at a stoplight turning left when, as previously, the engine stalled as I was turning. Again, all systems registered and were working but when I put my foot on the gas nothing happened. Again I was luckily able to coast to the side of the road and turn off the engine. This time after waiting roughly 5 mins and turning the engine back on, nothing happened after I hit the accelerator. I turned the engine back off and waited an additional 5 mins. This time I was able to give the car gas and as my home was nearby was thankfully able to make it to my house. The check engine light however did not go off as it had previously. I took the car to my dealership on 06/09/14 and they confirmed that it was the throttle body.
While making a left turn, the vehicle stalled and went into limp mode. Turned ignition off, waited 10 minutes, then cranked vehicle, and it ran normally. . . Updated 12/04/14.
When traveling at approx 50 mph, the engine made an automatic DE acceleration, with the rpms going to 1000. Even when stepping on the gas pedal, the rpms did not change and the car came to a very slow speed just over idle speed. A wrench symbol appeared in the indicator lights. I placed in park and turned off the car. When restarting, the wrench symbol went away and the car drove normal for about 20 miles until the same thing happened. It appears that something in the computer brains is telling the engine to shut down. This happened a few more times over weekend and thankfully I was not in heavy traffic and was able to pull off to the shoulder. Today is may 4, 2014 and tomorrow I plan to take the car into Ford dealership on sterling virginia. I have read recent complaints from Ford Escape owners that match exactly my problem. This is obviously unsafe and should be reported as a re call.
The back hatch will not open. There's no clicking sound when locking or unlocking. The window does open and close.
Tl - the contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the air conditioner stop working. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician diagnosed that the desiccant filter broke apart ruining the ac unit. As a result, the air conditioner unit needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 32,000 and the current mileage was 32,500. Pm.
On Dec. 31 at approximately 2 p. M. I was driving south on citrus Ave. I was going 55 mph and my vehicle started losing speed. I moved to the side of the road. I turned off the ignition and when I restarted the car it ran as normal. Prior to that, on several occasions upon starting from a stop I had noticed faster acceleration than the amount of pressure I was applying to the gas pedal.
While driving at 55mph on road. I lost all power to gas pedal the car was hard to steer to the side of the road. Put car in park shut car off . Waited a few minutes an started car up. It ran. This happens2or3 times on the same day then it might not happen again for a week or two this a ongoing problem that Ford should place o asafety recall not on soft customer satisfaction program#13no3 this is aserious safety issue.
Since December, I have had several warning lights appear on my dash. It started with a low tire light. I visually checked the tires and saw nothing wrong with them so I kept an eye on them. After about a week, the light went off. No reason. It has happened three other times since then. Next came the fuel fill indicator light while on a trip over 300 miles from home. After a few days it went off. Came on one other time since then. Next was the check engine light. It came on when on another trip over 300 miles from home. Still on a few days later so I went to auto zone for the free test. They told me it could be either the gas cap, which it doesn't come with, or a leak. Vak leak system. . Read more...
Was driving the vehicle on the interstate at about 60 mph and exited safely. Went through typical stop-and-go rush hour traffic for about 2 minutes until reaching work, in which the campus' speed is set to 25 mph throughout. Vehicle was traveling on work campus a little under 30 mph. Suddenly, the car stalled and the battery and oil warning lights had come on. Steering the vehicle to a safe parking place was difficult as the steering wheel had become tight. Once safely parked, the vehicle was turned off and after 5 seconds turned back on. The engine started up normally. Started driving the vehicle closer to where it was needed to be parked and the engine stalled again after 1000 feet and the steering went tight again. Turned off the vehicle again and after 5 seconds attempted to turn it back on. The engine had trouble starting but after an abnormal amount of time trying to turn over, the engine did. Was able to get the vehicle in the appropriate parking area. Vehicle has full tank of gasoline, 2000 miles over oil change recommendation by dealer, and factory battery. Vehicle has never been off-road but has been subject to easy snow accumulations since purchased from dealership.
While driving vehicle it will rev high and then stall while in traffic. Starts back up fine and then immediately stalls out again. This has happened three different times in the past 3 weeks.
At night, while stopped on red traffic light waiting for change to green, the vehicle stalls an shut off. Did not start right over until a while. All dashboard panel lights were on. After 45 minutes tried to start it and it just move very, very slow and did not accelerate until it died again a 100 feet farther. We call road assistance to take us home in a towing truck. At the other day we call the towing truck again to take the SUV to the dealer since it was in warranty, when we start it before leaving it was working fine. The service tech at Ford tell us that probably it is the throttle body since other people has been having the same issue. They test it and they say that nothing is wrong. . . My warranty is about to expire and I think that they are playing us to take the unit home and when it happen again charge us for the cost of the part. . . $$$$ very expensive!!! this is a hazardous issue since it can happen while driving it can cause an accident or lost of life.
While traveling at a relatively low traveling speed the vehicle seems to lose power and I can no longer accelerate. The tool light/check engine light will come on and I can coast to a stop. Once I stop the vehicle I turn it off. When I restart the vehicle it hesitates for approx 6 seconds and then turns over/restarts with no further problems. This has occurred four times since 11/6/13.