Ford Escape owners have reported 447 problems related to electrical system (under the electrical system category).
Tl-the contact owns a 2005 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 55 mph the dash board light up and the vehicle suddenly stopped. The vehicle was towed home. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer to be diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified. The contact feels like it was an electrical defeat. The failure mileage was 160,000. Rwk.
See all problems of the 2005 Ford Escape.
Neighbor woke me saying my car was on fire. Car wasn't on, the key was not in, and it had sat overnight. Called fire department and fire put out. Car is totaled because the firemen had to break into the engine compartment. Engine area burned with nothing but metal visible and a melted battery. I have pictures.
See all problems of the 2002 Ford Escape.
The vehicle will just die when driving, it is off. Very dangerous. There is a recall for the smaller engine with the same symptoms. The dealer has spoken to Ford and they do not know what it is. It died on them twice. They now believe it could be a dropoff in pressure in the fuel system which makes no sense. The cat justs stops running.
See all problems of the 2013 Ford Escape.
The vehicle had been turned in to brown daub Ford in nazareth, PA where it was reported to have died twice on the road. They then reported it died on them twice also. They replaced the engine fuel pump as this is the ecoboost there are two pumps (one at fueltank one at engine) and returned the car. It drove for 30 minutes and died again in an intersection where it almost caused a serious accident. The dealership wrote up the complaint as car wants to stall which is not what was said. They were told it died and was dangerous, they returned it with the same mileage as they took it in so it was not test driven. This is a very dangerous problem and will cause a death. The none turbo engine has a recall for wireharness splices not done properly and that is what this sounds like. Please look into this.
Throttle body actuator system failure. Surging, unnecessary revving at low speeds. Inconsistent acceleration and gear change. Trouble code "p2112 throttle actuator system stuck".
See all problems of the 2008 Ford Escape.
Driving down the road the power cut out to the vehicle, and the throttle stopped responding, the engine continued to run but very labored. At the same time the wrench light lit up on the dash. Using the forward momentum I was able to pull the vehicle over, where it stalled. I was able to re-tart the engine where it ran labored again, and stalled out, the throttle was not responsive during this time at all. After approximately 10 re-starts with the last coming after the vehicle sat awhile, I was able to re-start it and drive it normal. Throttle response returned, and the wrench light was off. This issue occured for my wife again on 11/12 with asimilar result.
While slowing down for a stop light on a busy state highway, and without warning vehicle stalled. Loss of electric temporarily. No collision bc vehicle behind me was able to swerve.
While driving along my Ford Escape suddenly refused to accelerate, I was holding the gas to the floor and it wouldn't budge. It was idling strangely and surging. A wrench symbol appeared in the screen on the dash. I was on a hill and was unable to pull of the road. Luckily, no one was behind me. I waited a few moments and restarted the Escape, it went and then continued to decelerate once again. I will be taking this back to the dealership to be fixed. But I am very concerned, upon researching the issue I found many more complaints online. Why hasn't this issue been recalled? it is highly dangerous and it is only a matter of time before the Escape cuts off at the wrong time and gets someone killed. This needs to be addressed before it become an epidemic like the chevy cobalt.
See all problems of the 2011 Ford Escape.
The first time this happened I was coming to a stop during rush hour traffic in Feb 2014. I was slowing down to stop when I noticed the red battery & wrench light come on. When I tried to accelerate the vehicle wouldn't move & the engine was off. I attempted to restart the vehicle several times with no luck. The dash lights & radio would work but it wouldn't start. I had to be pushed out of traffic. While waiting for the tow truck I tried again & it started (approximately after 15 min). I immediately took it to the Ford dealer. They "supposedly" fixed it under a recall. It just happened again (oct 2014) to me while coming to a stop during rush hour. Again the lights turned red and the engine died. I attempted to restart several times without any luck. The dash lights & radio worked but it wouldn't start. Finally after several attempts it started again. I'm waiting for my appointment with the Ford dealer. This issue needs to be reviewed before someone gets seriously hurt given that the engine dies without notice. Plus the "repair" didn't work!.
See all problems of the 2010 Ford Escape.
I was driving along with cruise control on at 73 mph, when I could no longer accelerate, my Escape just died with no warning lights, stall out or anything. Just as if someone turned it off. I had to coast to the side of the road. I waited a few minutes and tried to start it again with no luck. When I turned the key over, it seemed like it wanted to start but was not getting the gas to. I tried 3 more time and finally called Ford roadside assistance and had it towed to the nearest Ford dealership. I am waiting on a reply (with no loaner etc) the reason I buy new is for peace of mind. Not even , 10,000 miles on the car and it brakes? what gives. I have already taken it back to the dealer once (the day after I bought it) because it tries to stall when switching from reverse to drive, but the dealer made some excuse and said to watch and see if it continues. I am just glad that I was within cell phone signal range because I had just not been a few minutes before (scary).
See all problems of the 2014 Ford Escape.
After beginning acceleration from a stop light, my vehicle began to sputter and stalled out even though it was moving. I had to put it in park, turn the ignition off, and then turn it on in the middle of traffic. The gas tank was 3/4 full and the battery is only a year old.
See all problems of the 2009 Ford Escape.
I have the 2009 Ford Escape, I noticed about a month ago that the only way I could start the car was to push the key in really hard. At first, it would start after one hard push but gradually it got worse. It got to the point to where I would have to push harder and harder to get it started. Now after returning from the authorized Ford service department to fix a recall electrical issue it seems to be worse, it doesn't start on the first try and then you have to push hard and upwards and it can take 5 or more times to get it to start. . I switched to my spare key, thinking the original might be worn. It did start easier the first few times but now it's back to almost not starting at all, and takes a few tries, again you have to have the key just right or push just exactly for it to start. It has taken up to 15 minutes to get it right sometimes. When the car does start there is a burning electrical smell that is emitted from the vents. I'm worried each time I shut it off that it might not start again, leaving me stranded somewhere. Really? my Ford Escape is only 5 years old, this should not be happening! I have read many other owners having the same issue, this should be a recall as well.
The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the transmission was shifting abnormally in and out of gears and there was a sudden increase in engine rpms. The dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. During a second appointment, the technician determined that the computer needed to be reset. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer who repaired the throttle body, the motor, the assembly control, the assembly transmission, and the gasket. The remedy failed to repair the failure. In addition, while traveling 45 mph downhill, the vehicle stalled and caused another vehicle to crash into the contact¿s vehicle. The contact sustained minor injuries and did not seek medical attention. A police report was filed. The contact received a recall notice for NHTSA campaign number: 14v495000 (engine). The vehicle was towed to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 25,000.
As I was driving my car lost it throttle. The engine continued to run but I had no ability to accelerate. I pulled the car over. Turned it off, then back on and the car appeared to show no issues. About two weeks later the issue appeared again. Same solution. From my research this appears to be a common issue and could very much endanger anyone in the vehicle.
As I was exiting a ramp, the car stopped accelerating completely. . Forcing me to pull over, as I continue on it does not accelerate when gas is pushed completely down. Wrench light came on but leaves when car is off. Driving aprox. 3 blocks before wrench light comes on again. . .
September 10 2014, vehicle was serviced at henry curtis Ford in petaluma California for recall 14s05. Prior to this recall, we had no problems with our vehicle. October 3 2014, vehicle stalled at 65 mph driving on highway. My wife was driving up hill on the highway in the far right lane and was able to pull off the highway to the shoulder. Vehicle towed to repair shop, unable to find any error codes. Vehicle towed to henry curtis Ford dealership in petaluma California where the vehicle was purchased new in 2008. A $145 diagnostic was done and only one error code was reported by the dealer. Code b1239 ( air flow blend door driver circuit failure). Vehicle could be driven as there were no check engine lights on at that time. We picked up the vehicle from henry curtis Ford, and drove home. October 10 2014. Rpm's shifting up and down while driving on the highway at 65mph. Had vehicle towed to repair shop in san francisco. Serviced and replaced parts for b1239 error. Mechanic test drove vehicle and now another error code displays code p2112. P2112 Ford - throttle actuator control system error. The mechanic is replacing the throttle body and reprogramming the pcm. I called the Ford dealership and was told my VIN is not covered under any recalls for p2112. When I asked about consumer satisfaction program 13n03, I was told my VIN is not included. We had no problems with the vehicle prior to bringing it in for the recall 14s05. Now after that service we are having several problems and I have read that other vehicle owners are also having the same p2112 error. Ford should include our vehicle in this problem and see if the other two incidents we have are related some how. Everyone I spoke to at Ford did not want to help, but continue to charge me more diagnostic charges and repair. Thankfully we have an honest mechanic that is helping us out.
Entered left turn lane to approach off ramp, truck stalled. Appx 40mph. Turned off and restarted, drove home. Had noticed jumping response from idle to reverse to drive, particularly upon first ignition of day, for about a week. Have contacted dealership for repair of noted throttle body issue, which is scheduled for 1 week from today.
Vehicle has had issues with the dashboard gauges locking up while driving, took to Ford dealership and they could not identify cause of issue. If I hit the dash it gauges would start to work again. When gauges were not working, a/c would stop working as well. Most concerning is the last two days my car has stopped accelerating while driving it, I can put the gas all the way to the floor and it still won't accelerate. During that time a/c stops blowing cool air and if I apply my brakes the entire car will start to shake as if it is going to die. I turn off the car and restart it and it runs fine, however it does take a sec longer to turn over when I start it at that point. I am taking it to have it looked at today. I have had multiple repairs to this vehicle pertaining to the sensors.
Engine fault service now message displays on information center. Dealer says to turn off car, open door, close door, count to 10, turn car back on and message is gone. Message repeated 2 days later.
Outside temperatures were over 100f. Vehcile cutoff - lost all power and was coasting. Shifted to nuetral to restart - which it did. Pulled off the highway called hertz roadside assistance. Vehicle cutoff again while parked. Did not immediately restart. Restarted after about 10 minutes. Vehicle was towed by hertz.
The contact owns a 2004 Ford Escape. While driving 45 mph, the vehicle accelerated abruptly and the rpms increased. There were no warning indicators illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact examined underneath the hood and noticed there was an electrical component that was burned on the driver side of the engine compartment. When the contact depressed the accelerator pedal while the vehicle was in the park position, it shut off. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure only occurred once. The failure mileage was 160,000.
See all problems of the 2004 Ford Escape.
I've always been a staunch defender of the Ford brand. . . Until now. The more research I did on the link between faulty factory-installed spark plugs and pcm failure, and Fords knowledge of this link from the get-go, the angrier I become. There is a TSB out on this "known" issue however the warranty period only extends up to 80,000 miles. Pretty convenient since the average failure marker is 98k miles. Also convenient that Ford waited until 99. 99% of all affected drivers would be outside of their "warranty" period before graciously extending said "warranty". Hogwash. I consider myself fortunate that my failure did not cause an accident (because you know, loss of all electrical control at 70 mph is not high on my bucket list). I brought it into my mechanic . Diagnostics was the # 3 coils was bad. It was replaced and retested. It showed that it was good but the next coil was bad and the engine light was still on. We took the car to Ford and was told that the pcm was bad and needs to be replaced 2,100 later still having issues. On the way home from the shop I noticed it was still hesitating slightly, but nothing like it was . No, it will not last forever but known issues such as these really chap my hide!!! this has soured me off Ford forever at this point. Disappointing, dangerous and downright deceptive. Why won't Ford do a recall on this? safety is an issue. . . .
Vehicle loses power (check engine, service engine, and battery lights illuminated) while driving. Battery has been changed out by the dealership, but the problem continues on a daily basis. Sometimes the vehicle restarts, but the majority of the time, I have to get the vehicle jumped off. I have lost power on the highway as well on busy urban streets. The dealership refuses to acknowledge that there is a serious issue.
The contact owns a 2002 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at an unknown speed, smoke started to emit into the vehicle near the console. The contact merged to the side of the road and quickly exited the vehicle. The fire department was able to extinguish the fire. The vehicle was destroyed. The contact was later notified of recall NHTSA campaign id number: 12v005000 (electrical). The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 200,000.
The door ajar light comes and beeps while the overhead light comes on and off while I am driving for no reason. Sometimes it continues for a few minutes and other times it goes on and on until I stop the car and slam all the doors on my car shut. My car alarm also goes off all by itself for no reason, probably resulting from this same problem. I understand from online posts that this is a common occurrence with Ford vehicles. This problem should be addressed by Ford.
See all problems of the 2007 Ford Escape.
|Problem Category||Number of Problems|
|Electrical System problems||
|Ignition Module problems||
|Ignition Coils Failure problems||
|Underhood Wiring problems||
|Car Will Not Start problems||
|Ignition Switch problems||