Mini Cooper S owners have reported 10 problems related to check engine light on (under the engine and engine cooling category).
On 27-oct-2014, when I was driving home the check engine light came on and it gave a message about the catalytic converter. Luckily I was close to home and the message just said to slow down which I did. I had it towed to a local mechanic the next day since it was not drivable. It was real shaky and didn't feel safe to drive when I started the engine. They had the vehicle for 3 days and checked everything from the coils, spark plugs, ran a compression test which showed that cylinder 3 was not getting enough power, etc. They stated that there were no leaks or fluids found in that area like they had expected since that was the only cylinder that was not running properly. I contacted Miniusa to see if they would fix the vehicle out of goodwill because this was a known issue with these vehicles/engines (r56). Needless to say, Miniusa would not fix the repair nor would they respond to my emails. Mini of concord offered to cover 25% of the cost leaving me to pay $3600 out of pocket for something that they know is faulty. This is unacceptable.
See all problems of the 2007 Mini Cooper S.
Premature high pressure fuel pump failure may lead to loss in power, furthering the potential for a wreck. Engine enters "limp home" mode, which reduces power considerably and makes acceleration much slower than normal. Check engine light comes on, several obd-ii diagnostics codes appear.
See all problems of the 2011 Mini Cooper S.
Check engine light on and off intermittently; engine rough on start up; sounds like rattling chains when shifting; Mini said our oil was too low subsequently destroying our timing chain; tech was amazed that the chain guides were shorn off as well; Mini does not have a check oil indicator light on the console; we change our oil every 5000 miles even though Mini recommends every 15000. So, we had to replace the timing chain on a 5 year old car with less than 44,000 miles. Complained to Mini corporation and proceeded with conflict resolution expert. Mini denied our claim because our oil was low at the time of the incident. Repair cost $1,950. 83 and we are still making a car payment on this newer vehicle. Researched similar complaints on the internet as well as talking with 3 acquaintances who own a Mini. We are fortunate we caught this issue before we had to replace our engine. According to their website, BMW/Mini finds oil usage at 1 quart per 1000 miles as acceptable. If that is the case, they need to install a check oil indicator light on the console and change their maintenance schedule from 15000 to 3000 miles.
I bought my 2007 Mini used 1 month ago. When I went to test drive the car the engine would not start and there was a check engine light on. The dealer told me that they would have it fixed and call me back in for a test drive. I went back and when the car started it had a very slight rattle that eventually went away. Now in the month time that I have had the car it takes me 6 or 7 tries to get the engine to start, and when it runs it has the rattle that has plagued so many other Mini owners. Enough is enough. Action must be taken to correct the inadequacy of the inferior timing chain set up. The dealer has told me that it is a "normal" Mini noise and that I would have to get used to it. That is in a sense a "cop out" for a problem that is heavily known in the Mini community and that BMW Mini is well aware of. This is a major mechanical defect in the car and BMW Mini need to own up to repair with an updated and current corrective action or replace the engines for all the loyal Mini owners experiencing this very costly problem that could lead to total driveline failure. We paid for a good running reliable vehicle and are not getting what we paid for.
I just bought a Mini Cooper S with 70,000 miles on it and the engine light came on. I now see where error code p0012 is affected by service bulletin sim-11-02-07 and puma measure 10686850-13. The fact that the engine process affecting the oil condition is the start of this occurrence and yielding some issues with the vanos unit and the timing chain, I am at a loss. Now this is my problem, and it is all the fault of Mini. I am wondering what to do??.
As I approached the street on where I live, the car started to severely shake and jerk , as if power was not going to the engine. I was able to park it on my driveway, but the next morning, the car had to be towed to the dealer because it would not start. When the car arrived at the dealer after being towed in, the car could not be jump-started, even after several attempts. Two weeks prior, I had brought my car in for service because the check engine light came on. They replaced the timing chain and found several misfire faults, which were supposedly corrected. The cylinder head was removed and disassembled and found to have carbon build up. The intake valves and exhaust valves were cleaned. Since the incident, the car is still at the dealer. An extended road test is scheduled to be performed within these next few days. No word on what has caused the car's engine to die.
Check engine light came on. . . . Excessive carbon build up. Happened again at 68k miles . . . .
See all problems of the 2009 Mini Cooper S.
R56 mcs Mini 2007 - bought used in sept 09 had the "cold start rattle" but didn't know what it was at the time. Engine light came on at 38,000 dealer replaced timing chain . On the way home vacuum pump seized causing damage to the values. Dealer sent pictures to Mini and the decision was made to replace the engine with a new one.
Car has been outside in the cold weather and when started it sounds like not firing correctly-backfiring noises. Engine lights pop up. Mainly 1/2 engine power light and cruise control failure. Car really only has 1/2 engine power. Top speed is 45mph, downhill. Car lurches around, engine revs every second or so. 1st time shut car off and turned back on then it was fine. Check engine light remained on. Car spent night in garage, was fine next morning. That night same symptoms at start up but didn't go away - had to make long commute home at slow speeds. Car spent night inside again and was fine in the morning. Called dealer, car towed to dealer. Service manager kept using engine and throttle interchangeably - causing great concern when I was told that the problem is condensation getting into it and freezing, but they reassured me it is the throttle and not the engine. Dealer said they put a special lub in it and to not drive short drives-I never do, 24,000 miles on a 9 month old car. 6 weeks later exact same problems again. Car to dealer. Loaner car (2007 Mini Cooper S) did exact same thing my car was doing. The loaner car did come out of it about 30 miles into commute. Could get up to highway speeds, all lights went off except check engine light. Something seemed to thaw out. Was told the throttle was freezing in cold temps and affecting many Mini's, BMW's, and jag's. Dealer changed oil in my car, 1 week after 1st oil change. Dealer said they are doing investigation but that I have to live with it for now. Local mechanic said it sounds like the sensor that tells the computer how much gas to spray into the chamber is frozen. Probably made of cheap materials, gets hot, moisture condenses and freezes on sensor causing problems but not sure without being able to see car go through one of it's "fits". Car has been fine for past 4 weeks. Some people at dealer admit to problem while others will not, telling me it is just my car and only when I have it.
The contact owns a 2006 Mini Cooper S. On two occasions, while driving at unknown speeds, the engine shut off and the engine light illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact notified the dealer and manufacturer and they are investigating the failure. They did not state if the vehicle was included in any recalls. The failure mileage was 5,000 and current mileage was 5,500.
See all problems of the 2006 Mini Cooper S.
|Problem Category||Number of Problems|
|Timing Tensioner problems||
|Engine And Engine Cooling problems||
|Engine Oil Leaking problems||
|Engine Belts And Pulleys problems||
|Water Pump problems||
|Engine Exhaust System problems||
|Car Stall problems||
|Engine Failure problems||
|Gas Recirculation Valve (egr Valve) problems||