general problems of the 2003 BMW 325

On June 28,2024, after parking and turning off the ignition switch, the dash started smoking and within minutes the whole dash and front of car were on fire. The car almost completely burned to the ground before the fire department could get there. The car was recently serviced at a BMW for an air bag recall. Heater ducts were loose when returned. There are also recalls for the 2006 325i for similar dash fires. The cause could be either dealer work or a factory issue.

Tl- the contact owned a 2003 BMW 325i. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked, it caught on fire. The fire department extinguished the fire. The contact stated that the fire arsonist investigator file a report and provided a case number. The vehicle was not towed to a dealer and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 120,000. Aw.

Drivers window is stuck in up position. When raise/lower switch is activated, I hear the motor running but window does not move down. The local BMW repair center said it will be $150 to inspect the problem and then $$$ to repair. The malfunction of the window happened while I was driving.

Dangerous death trap!!! I got stuck in my car because the door locks do not work. You are unable to get out of the car if the unlock mechanism fails. There are many compaints of the same for the e46 BMW models. We had to crawl of windows and luckily those worked. As designed, you cannot open the doors if ithe module fails and there is not mechanical override to unlock. There is not door key for passenger doors as well. This has happened multiple times, I am looking to get it fixed but it works sometimes.

Central locking system near total failure with possibility of becoming trapped in vehicle. Also, on a minor note, windshield washer doesn't work. The lock, window, wiper, and maybe other relays are located on a circuit board making it impossible to be swapped out by the average person. This means a high repair cost which means that as these vehicles come onto the used market and being the amazing value that they are, current owners may be unable or unwilling to have this fixed immediately and simply not use the locks or whatever else has a relay failure. Due to the security features and such associated with this car, it becomes easy for the locks to be engaged and impossible to unlock as the problem in the relays gets worse. The relays need to be relocated to sockets that allow them to be individually replaced like fuses the way most cars have them so that the problem doesn't have a chance to get worse and render car nearly unusable or trap somebody inside before a repair is possible. I can't tell you when the problem first happened because I bought the car used and the locks were imperfect at that time, it is also known to be an intermittent problem in most vehicles' cases. In my time with the car it has gotten worse, but since I still have life left in my battery and recently purchased a working remote key, and am an able bodied young person, I was able to get creative using the windows and cargo door for entry and exit and plan on attempting a temporary fix, maybe just disabling lock system, until I can afford the repair which I've heard can cost half the book value of this vehicle!!! insanity!!! a typical relay replacement is as simple as buying a new one for what maybe $5 and putting it in? just add a relay panel on top of the fuse panel. I do love this car you've made, but relays fail, we should be able to replace them like fuses, just like other cars.

Remote unlocking/locking will not function. Doors can not be opened or unlocked from inside vehicle with central lock switch or with door handle, trapping passengers inside. The drivers window must be rolled down and key used to unlock driver side door to exit vehicle. Climbing out of windows or climbing to drivers seat is the only way out of car, BMW states "not a safety issue".

The contact owns a 2003 BMW 325ci. The contact stated that the key fob and key failed to unlock the doors. The contact had to make several attempts to unlock the doors by using the key fob and key. The dealer diagnosed that the module five needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.

Doors failed to unlock on a few different occasions.

The display that shows the odometer, temperature, trip meter, etc. Stopped working completely. A pixel or two will show up, but no legible information.

Stalling, electrical issues, dead batteries, swerving.

The central locking system intermittently fails to operate; problem is influenced by temperature extremes (hot and cold); symptoms vary from requiring the driver to lock and unlock the vehicle several times before the doors will unlock to a complete failure of all doors to unlock. When the problem manifests itself, the central electric door lock button (mounted in the center console beside the hazard light switch) is inoperable. BMW crash safety features include mechanical disconnect of door latches when locked; when this particular problem manifests, sometimes the passenger side doors will remain mechanically disconnected, meaning that the doors cannot be opened at all. In a worst case scenario, if the driver's side of the vehicle unusable for escape due to damage or being blocked, the only way to escape from the vehicle is by smashing windows. Bmws are not equipped with a glass break device. The problem seems to be a body module called the gm5, which is mounted above/in front of the glove box; all lock power circuits run through this module; the problem seems to be a voltage drop in the module, resulting in insufficient voltage to the lock mechanisms, as you can hear the locks attempting to cycle when and can see the lock buttons moving when the key fob is used in an attempt to unlock the doors. A google search of the terms "BMW","doors won't unlock" gets at least 10 pages of results on the issue, including several that identify the gm5 module as the cause of the problem and ways to fix it. Repair requires a new gm5 module that needs to be programmed prior to install.

My vehicle has the same incident about a dozen of times in the last 4-5 years. The vehicle suddenly had check engine light, abs light, traction control light, and brake light on, engineer started to knocking, speed forced down to less than 30 mph within in seconds. It was quite scaring when the vehicle was on the highway with speed at ~50-70 mpg. My dealer has made several repairs, changing everything in this speed controlling system multiple times according to the book, including throttle body twice, electric harness three times, and control computer unit once, but the problem recurs. Occasionally, resetting the system and/or restarting the car, and sometimes reconnecting every parts of the system can avoid the problem for a while (from a days to 1-2 years). Although it is unpredictable in when, it would come back. The problem seems to come more often when the weather become more wet. This mimics the behavior of the poor electric connections controlling the tails and turning lights of the same model, which was recalled by BMW a couple of years ago. It seems that the same electric connectors are used in this speed controlling system. Obviously, this problem is more dangerous than the signaling light issue since it is more likely to lead to severe accidents/crashes in the highway; I might be dead or severely injured if I did not responded quickly enough when was in I-95 for example.

The warning light for my passenger side tail light has been going on and off for months as if there is a short in it. It stayed on permanently this month, showing a dimmer light than the working side tail light, so I had it checked when I had the oil changed at my BMW mechanic. He informed me there was a recall for tail light assemblies for my vehicle and told me to call the dealer to check the VIN number. I called the dealer last Friday, June 22, 2012 and was informed that my vehicle was part of the recall and that someone would call to make an appointment for the work. No one called, so I called again today and they said the VIN was not part of the open recall. The tail light is acting like the other tail lights that were recalled so I do not understand how it cannot be part of the recall.

My 2003 BMW 325it stalls unexpectantly while driving. The engine shuts down, I loose power steering, the check engine light goes on and have to pull off the road. I then put it in park and start the engine again. This started to happen in 2011 and now occurs with increasing frequency. It happened three times in 2014, including today October 11, 2014, while I was driviing on a two lane road at about 40 mph. I am very worried about my personal safety and hope to have an early response from you about this critical matter. I have also written to BMW corporation. I am the original owner of the car, bought on October 22, 2002 from vob auto sales 1396 rockville pike, rockville, MD 20852 USA.

This has been an ongoing issue regarding the door locks on my 2003 BMW 325 xi. The doors automatically lock when the vehicle is placed into gear. Which I assume is as designed. ? however the doors will not unlock once the vehicle is placed back in park (engine running or not) neither by manual manipulation of the lock buttons on the doors or by pressing the door unlock switch on the console. ? furthermore, with the single exception of the driver?s door, all other door latches are rendered non-functioning (inside and outside of the vehicle) ? no one but the drive can open a door to exit the vehicle all doors are rendered inop, you can?t open them from either this inside or the outside o no, the child locks are not engaged. As a member of the fire service and fire marshall for the city of carver, mn I see this as a huge life safety issue. If there were ever a fire, the occupants would not be able to self-extricate (open the door to escape smoke and fire). Furthermore, given the likelihood and great potential for rapid fire spread in car fires in general?. Any passengers, children/infants strapped into in car seats in the back seats would most certainly perish. Based on a multitude of consumer complaints on various internet boards, I do not believe this to be an issue specific to my car, but much broader in scope. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

While travelling on route 50 in maryland at 55mph engine cut out completely. I lost power steering and brakes. Fortunately, I was able to pull over to side of road, turn off vehicle and restart it. I brought it to the dealership where I purchased it. They cannot diagnose it without at least $1100 worth of work (they think its a transmission problem). After $1100 they state it would be an easy $200 fix or a substantial $6-8000 fix. I will be bringing it to another mechanic for second opinion. I was fortunate I was not in traffic and could pull over safely.

Got a warning from police about drivers side brake light being out. Took it to repair shop to be repaired. Bulb replaced. In less than 12 hours the lights were out again. Took it back to repair shop they pulled the light panel out lights came on. I drove off and the inside warning light came on again. I was told by the repair shop that if the light went out again it was an electrical problem and the panel would have to be replaced.

Doors will not open because door locks will not unlock. Key fob button will not unlock any doors 90% of the time. Most of the time I can only get in car on drivers side with manual operation of driver's side door lock (sticking key in lock and turning). Once in car, 90% of time I still cannot unlock any other doors, even by pulling on door handle (which would ordinarily unlock the door). The interior button to unlock the doors will not work. On Friday, 12/9/11, I could not even get out of the driver's side door when I arrived at my destination. (car is set to automatically engage all locks once I start driving) I had to roll window down and reach out and unlock door with key. When my son and daughter drive with me, they have to get in and out of car either by crawling across driver's seat or go through a window opening. My wife cannot ride in this car now because she may not be able to get out. Due to this defect, passengers are trapped in car. Also, entry into vehicle is delayed (because fob will not unlock doors) which also poses safety risks when parked at night in downtown parking garages. There are five other complaints on nhsta website on this exact same issue. Recall should be initiated.

While driving my 2003 BMW 325ci the engine will shut off. This causes: 1. Power steering stops functioining 2. I am unable to accelerate 3. Braking takes excessively long with engine off 4. Dashboard lights up.

Right taillamp failure and left taillamp intermittent operation. Electrical system repair: right rear taillamp connector and bulb carrier corroded. Dealer replaced pigtail harness and bulb carrier with updated design: socket housing, terminal, contact, cable connector, hose, insulation housing, flat contact, cable socket and bulb socket.

Faulty pin connectors in rear brakelight assemblies, causing premature failure of brake lighting harness, very dangerous.

3/26/2010 - olney, MD - 2003 325xi right and left rear light assembly system failing at times, (turn signal and brake light works intermittenly). BMW acknowledged "ground" problem in assemly in tbs:630306, February 1 2007 local dealer in silver spring MD, tisher BMW correct the problem only on the right side and completely ignore multipple office visit for the same issue on both sides and refuse to correct problem on the left assembly. At the same time BMW corporate office customer suport refused to offer out of warranty free repair or to initiate recall on previosly acknowledged "ground" problem. I belive this issue is the safty hazard because the "ground" red wire is burning in the connector of tail light assembly. Also people and other drivers can't see when you "braking".

I purchased my BMW 325i in August of 2006. Since that purchase I have only driven it approximately 9-12 months collectively. The car was purchased with 37500 miles and now has 70,000 miles. The problem appears to be the electrical system which causes the lights to turn off and on when they feel like it. This car has been sitting in my driveway for the past 9 months because it is unsafe to drive and will not pass inspection. I have had it to numerous BMW dealerships, they can not find the problem. All the issues seem to be electrical in nature and are very hard to accurately diagnose. The bottom line is I am charged thousands of dollars to repair the car but car is still not safe. The rear lights have burned out and the right front light goes on and off at will. The last incident occurred in Dec 2009 when the car lit up like a christmas tree (the only time all of the lights worked. ) however, when you turn the car on, the lights went off again. The car had to be towed to the shop where it remained until January 2010. I was charged $2700 and still can't get this beast inspected. This has gone beyond the point of ludicrous. I am completely disgusted with the "ultimate driving machine". In essence I am paying 650 dollars a month for nothing. The last mechanic that looked at the car recommended that we should replace the front lighting system because the current system that is faulty is not meant to be replaced, so replacement parts are very expensive. In theory the lights should last the life of the car. This is not the case with my car and to replace the xenon lights with the more common halogen lights it will cost an estimated 2,000 dollars. This is not feasible with a car payment and until the car is paid off in 2012. It will sit in the driveway, a waste of a perfect car, my retirement car.

Gm5 locking module for 2003 BMW e46. All four lock would not unlock or lock on the remote or switch inside the car. I had to either wait in the heat or cold outside while waiting for the locking system to respond. If there are children in the car and you cannot get to in time because of the lock/unlock issue, it can be fatal for others.

The car doors at times do not unlock. It is very intermittent. A key can be used to open the driver's door but a couple of times even the door key has not worked. The most serious issue is that I have been locked inside the car and unable to open any of the doors, including the driver's door, with the main lock control or even by trying to open the door with the inside door handle. I have had to have passengers crawl out of the window to exit the car a few times. There are times when the key works to get in but I cannot get the other doors open even by attempting to use the inside door handle. This is a scary situation to be in.

Rear lighting system, to include turn signal and brake light, on my 2003 BMW 325i works intermittently. BMW acknowledged defect in system in si b 63 03 06, dated February 2007 but to date has refused to initiate a recall to fix this safety defect. The nature of the defect causes the lamp housing terminals to burn and burns the surrounding plastic housing. This can be a fire hazard particularly of there is flammable material in the trunk. Obviously the brake lights working intermittently is an obvious hazard. The repair costs approx $600 for both sides.

My dashboard panel showed a warning light indicating that the tail light was having an issue. I was told by a service center that the tail light assembly may get hot enough to melt the plastic in the housing and it will have to be replaced. Upon inspection I found that the wire harness had melted and the power supply wire for one of the lights had melted the plastic and the wire had come free. Once free, it arced to the connector pin on the bulb holder assembly and degraded that pin until the connection was lost. All plastic pieces in contact with the parts are melted and burned. I contacted the BMW service center and was told that this is not a recall issue and I was responsible for replacing these parts. Pictures are available of the parts.

Right rear lighting system, to include turn signal and brake light, on my 2003 BMW 325i works intermittently. BMW acknowledged defect in system in si b 63 03 06, dated February 2007 but to date has refused to initiate a recall to fix this safety defect.

Brake light malfunction due to corrosion of wires within the housing of the brake light. BMW corporate is aware of the problem, but has yet to recall it.

The engine has been stalling intermittently while driving since 11/2004, and has had 6 documented services. After last service on 11/18/05, it stalled again on 12/01/05 when driving on freeway. I had not driven it since then and had it towed and returned to the dealer on 12/10/05.

I have a BMW 325i which I purchased brand new in Nov. '02. In March '03, while driving on the njtpk at 60-65mph in the left lane, the car suddenly lost its acceleration. The clocks also went off and then reset itself to 12:00. Being that I was driving in the left lane of the NJ turnpike, I consider myself very lucky that I was able to cross four lanes of traffic and come to the right shoulder (there was no left shoulder). I waited for a while, restarted the car, reset the clock and hit the road again. Shortly after that the electrical system in the car starting acting up. . . At one occasion, I was not able to unlock the car using the remote. At another, the windows would not roll up upon pulling on the knob. The light below the rear view mirror would not come on. Most of these problems would go away after I would shut down the car and restart it. I took the car into princeton BMW where I had purchased it. They had never heard of this issue before. They kept the car for a full day and did extensive testing on it. At the end of the day they were not able to find anything wrong with the car. For the next few months I did not have any problems with the acceleration although the light behind the rear view mirror still does not work fine. If I turn the right light on, nothing happens for about 5-10 minutes. Then all of a sudden the light comes on. Well, this past weakened (March 14th '04) I had an another experience, on rt. 1, where the car totally lost its acceleration again. I am going to schedule an appointment with princeton BMW again. I also called BMW of na and informed them of the issue.

When driving at an undetermined speed trunk would open without warning. Consumer took the vehicle to the dealership for inspection, and mechanic determined that vehicle had an electrical problem.

I bought my 2003 BMW 325i new. Shortly after the sale I noticed the front drivers xenon light would go out. The only way to get the light back on, is to turn off the car and restart the engine. This works about 80 percent of the time. Another issue I have been experiencing is a false indication that my taillights are out. This is very sporratic and annoying. A third issue I am experiencing is very dangerous relating to my drivers seatbelt. The seatbelt may seam locked, but if you pull with a bit of force, the seatbelt will come out of the locked position.