18 problems related to service brakes have been reported for the 2014 BMW 328. The most recently reported issues are listed below. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2014 BMW 328 based on all problems reported for the 2014 328.
After a drive from denver to breckenridge on snowy roads the car was parked in an unplowed parking space. When the car was moved 1 hr later the car had no abs--flashing on dash, no traction control--flashing on dash and steering was ineffective. Car was only drivable by backing into a space. 20 hrs later the car was to be moved again. . . Again, everything flashed on dash. . . No abs, no traction control, drive train failure and car just slid. Steering was totally ineffective. Car was pushed by people on both sides until dry pavement was reached. Car was restarted and I resumed driving on dry pavement back to denver. Had car "read" by my mechanic and then again by a BMW certified mechanic. No codes were available! the speculation was that my wheel sensors froze. If my xdrive can't be driven in snow, what's going on. There were two drivers involved in this and both of us reported a total lack of control of the vehicle.
The rear brakes cable holder is broken. This is a very common issue with this vehicle and appears to be a safety issue as the cables will hang and rub on the driveshaft. My service advisor, from BMW of pembroke pines, FL, ramon trull, also advised/ confirms the same. It's an inexpensive part, however, the cost to replace is exorbitant. If you search the web, you'll find many examples. I feel this should be covered under a recall. Please review and advise. Thank you!.
Unknown: vehicle collided with another vehicle on highway and control system and functions stopped. Airbag on driver’s side malfunctioned burning driver with liquid and metal.
I drove the car downhill very slowly. (good weather, no rain or anything) the traffic light turned red and I tried to brake. However, the brake felt rock hard and the car was not slowing down. In the end I read-ended the car in front of me. No one was injured because I drove very slowly. But the car will probably be totaled.
I went to park my mom's car. Tapped the brakes, moved up a little, tapped the brakes again-the brakes gave out and the car lunged forward at a high speed. The only reason I stopped was because a metal fence stopped me. Earlier in the day the car switched modes by itself from sport to economy. This is the 2nd time this has happened in this car. The first time my mom was parking in her driveway and the brakes gave out and the car lunged into her garage. This car is not safe.
While approaching a stop light I noticed that it was much harder to stop than expected. As I let up on the brake a little I started accelerating towards the car in front of me. I reapplied the brakes much hard and was able to stop the vehicle but I could tell that I was fighting the engine. I put the car into park and the engine raced up to about 4. 5k. I then just hit the off button and put my hazards on. After a few seconds, I turned the car back on and the engine behaved as expected. I drove off without incident.
The contact owns a 2014 BMW 328i. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the steering wheel locked up not allowing the contact to turn the steering wheel. The contact stated the chassis stabilization warning light was illuminated on the control panel. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer where it has yet to be diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was relating the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 13v454000 (service brakes, hydraulic). The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.
Loss of power assist to braking twice while moving at low speed when approaching a stop. Unable to bring vehicle to full stop the first time as it was a downhill. Second time traveling on a slight upgrade which helped bring the vehicle to a stop. Brought to dealership for diagnosis and repair. They said that brake booster, one-way line, o-ring etc. Needed to be replaced due to oil contamination. While this model year is not specifically listed in recall 10v-446 it sounds like exactly the same problem. Was this recall expanded to the f30 platform? if not should it be?.
To avoid a head on collision, I was forced off road. When I moved out of the way I immediately applied the breaks which then took some time to respond as if it was blocked or as if I didnt press the pedal. By the time I felt some sort of stopping tension I was put into a pole. Airbags did not deploy.
Passenger front seat fasten seatbelt signals when I'm driving and no-one is in the front seat, I have to lock seatbelt to turn it off. It hasn't signal lately. Driver's door locks and won't unlock when I'm parked unless I use the remote but, not all of the time. Breaks squeaks only when I first exit the garage at home.
I was hearing rattle sound from the chassis while driving on city street, took it the dealer and found out the park brake cable holder is broken and was hitting the the shaft. This will lead to grid the park brake cable into the drive shaft and cause accident. That piece should be recall and reinforce.
When applying brakes there is a significant reduction of braking power. It is much worse when the brakes are wet(rain or snow). At times the pedal goes all the to the floor leaving the car unable to stop without the use of the emergency brake. Several times I was afraid I would be unable to stop & have an accident. I am a rn on the front line treating patients in the icu who have contracted the coronavirus (covid-19) and cannot afford to be away from my job. This condition first happened in oct 2019 and continues today.
Vehicle cruising at 70mph on the freeway when the car stalled out with no warning. It simply went into neutral and cut the engine, rendering the vehicle hard to control since power steering and braking were not working. The car broke down again without warning on a city surface street with a speed limit of 45mph. Independent mechanic diagnosed that the high pressure fuel pump imploded, sending metal throughout the entire fuel system. Again there was no warning and braking/steering were affected.
My brake pedal pad came off of my brake when I went to stop behind someone causing me to get in an accident. I was traveling on a city street coming up to traffic that was starting to go at a traffic light that just turned green. I believe the rubber is too soft on the brake pedal pad and was not seated on the brake all the way due to me or a previous owner pulling the bottom left side off of the brake by lifting their foot up from resting it next to the brake. I have a photo of the pad from after the accident showing indentations on the bottom left of the pad from where the bottom left corner was pulled off the brake. When I went to slow down in traffic so the car in front of me could have time to speed up, the pad slipped off and caused me to hit the gas pedal and hit the car in front of me. My computer registers what happened five seconds prior to impact. It says that I was traveling at 21 mph (the speed limit is 35), then hit the gas and accelerated a little before impact, which is in my opinion proof that my foot slipped off the brake. The car in front of me was not stopped, they were accelerating from being stopped in traffic at a light, but traveling slower than me, which is why I was going 21 mph so close behind them, because I had approached the traffic after they already started moving. I contacted BMW and they inspected it and said there's nothing wrong with the pad and therefore will not be compensating me for the accident by taking responsibility and fixing my car. That made me feel as though they are not concerned with my personal safety. The driver and passenger of the vehicle I hit told my insurance they were both injured but I'm not sure if they are pursuing the injury claim.
I was driving 75 mph on the interstate which was the speed limit and I vividly remember having my cruise control set at that speed, plus or minus 2 mph. I was driving behind a pickup truck that was 8-10 seconds ahead of me. The pickup truck wasn't equipped with cruise control like my black 328i BMW was so they (a couple) were traveling slower than I was at that time. So as my vehicle approaches 4 seconds away from theirs traveling 75mph (+ or - 2 mph). They braked to change lanes from the lane we were traveling together to the other line since it was a two lane highway. They didn't slam their brakes, they lightly pressed them because a third vehicle they were waiting to pass in order to safely switch lanes and give me the right away. Quickly, I reacted by braking as well and I could feel a hydraulic lock in the brake pedal. Almost like I was trying to push down on cement and my pedal wasn't acting normal while breaking but only half breaking like it was fully applied when I was pressing firmly. I'm convinced that the vacuum pump that supplies brake power assistance may have been mechanically faulty and/or failing for reasons only a mechanic could understand. Now, I've been a driver for many years and this was my first BMW so I didn't know what to think of it. I bought it for a great deal at a pre-owned chevy dealership that said it was ase certified by their mechanics prior to selling it to me. So why did this happen to me? I'm only 27 years old, with three children and I could have been seriously injured or worse. I'm very shaken up by the whole situation because the loss of breaking power provoked an unavoidable collision that makes me look like a reckless driver when just wanted the car to stop. It just appeared that I couldn't brake on time but in actuality, the car should have been recalled for this.
The contact owns a 2014 BMW 328i. The contact stated that the brake drum was rusted without warning. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, but nothing could be done. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and referred the contact back to the dealer. The failure was not remedied. The failure mileage was approximately 17,000.
I was driving my 2014 BMW 328i xdrive, slowing from ~30mph into an intersection for a left hand turn in a residential/shopping area. Upon applying the brakes, the brake pedal moved but the car didn¿t slow. I then smashed the brake pedal to the floor, still the car didn¿t slow. I continued holding the brake pedal and the car shook violently finally started slowing. Once slow enough to make the turn, I coasted through the intersection and stopped on the shoulder. Going through the turn and the intersection, I was behind a dump truck. The issue brought me within inches of slamming into the back of the truck, but luckily the truck turned in time for me not to hit it. Once my car was stopped on the shoulder, I called the BMW dealership that I had just left and was advised to hit the sos button and have my car towed to them. The service advisor (sa) ran diagnostics & took the car on several test drives. He said that nothing pinged on the diagnostics reading and he couldn¿t replicate the problem, so my car would be returned to me. . Read more...
I was driving on the local highway and attempted to stop on red light, the car stopped first and then unexpectely jumpped up, sliding forward and hit the front vehicle while break pedal was fully pressed.
| Service Brakes problems | |
| Brakes Failed problems | |
| Abs Brake Fail problems | |
| Brake Light On problems |