general problems of the 2011 Buick Regal

When I shift the car from park to drive it does a very hard jerk. And vehicle has no codes on dash or anything.

The car doesn’t stay on park still will move forward or backwards the gear shift locks and does not move when I turn it makes a huge clack sound.

I am having a braking problem with my 2011 Regal clx turbo. My brakes do not seem to be releasing when the car has been sitting outside and the temperature is high. Steering wheel shakes when applying the brakes and even when the brakes are released. The brake pedal and or parking brake does not disengaging on the Buick Regal 2011.

Takata recall - there is an issue with the ballast in the hid headlamp assembly for the cxl turbo model. The seal may be faulty due to the headlamp shorting out except for the daytime running lights. They shorted out right after a heavy downpour and I was stopped by a police officer and told that they (the headlights) were out. I got out of the vehicle and looked at the the lights only to realize that they had malfunctioned and there was moisture in the assembly itself.

On 10/17/2018, I was leaving out of my workplace parking lot, while pulling on to the roadway. My sunroof exploded sending glass all over myself and inside of my vehicle and I immediately pulled over to see a gaping hole in my sunroof.

Brake pedal stay down and does not release causing heating and reduce acceleration. It is a safety issue during fast moving and can't predict the car movement. Brake and accelerator pedal assembly not design to work in a wide range of temperatures. It is serious danger in the highway driving.

After the car sitting in the sun, driving in slow traffic the car is running rough, the gas millage dropped, the brake making noise when you stop. When accelerate there is grinding noise. I pulled to the side and turn off the car for five minutes, I start the car and it run as normal. This was happening before for 2 month. Take it to the dealer 3 times, they advise there is nothing wrong. Last time they clean the bearings and it did not help. Finally they advise to replace the modular for the brake and the accelerator and it required remove the dash board and lot of labor time. They are not sure 100% it will work as it is not shown on the scan.

Hi, I'm writing to file a safety complaint. The Buick dealership will not perform the manufacturer safety recall free of charge. Gm recall number: 2030710 NHTSA recall number: 16v517 inoperative power seats, seat fires and seat heating module connector melting the dealership stated we would need to pay $700 to repair the passenger seat's inoperative motor before they could perform the recall. The other recall on this vehicle was not performed. Buick recall number: n120212 NHTSA recall number: 12v484 turn signal lamp outage indicator not working how should I proceed? thank you!.

Bought my car from a reputable dealer. The car was a fun toy for me to drive. My 2011 Regal apparently had has a transmission problem. The shop says needs a new transmission because everything is sealed and can't be serviced. Anyway multiple times I'm on the road and in town and the car drives okay, but as soon as merge onto the high way the car stalls. Heres what happens as soon as I merge onto the high way the rpm's go way up. The trassmission is stalled. The car won't accelerate. Multiple times I've almost had an accident. The instrument cluster has "d" flashing and engine light is off. I pull over the side of the road turn the car off, and then restart the car and then it works again. This sucks. It honestly a 50 50 chance the car transmission will stall when I merge onto the highway. I feel this is a recall issue. Manny people have complained about this recently around the same millage of mine. Around 100,000 miles. Only problem is Buick takes blame on the same problem with the enclave,but not the Regal. What a shame.

I received a letter dated November 2015 that there could be a defect in my throttle position sensor. The symptoms were that the car ran rough, reduced power, engine light, etc. As soon as I received this letter, and while my car was still under factory warranty, I took the car in to the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong with my vehicle. There was but I continued to drive. I then made several other calls to gm until finally the car began to really show sings of a malfunction. It is stalling while driving down the road. It lunges forward with great force nearly sending my daughter and I through a store front window. Then it just started stalling every couple feet. All of the symptoms pointed to the throttle position sensor. I went to auto zone and o'reilleys and they both came up with the same codes p0420 and p0301 which leads to the throttle position sensor but the dealership said if a specific code didn't come up, then it wouldn't be covered. Of course they said the code didn't come up and that I would owe them for the diagnostic plus they told me it was lunging forward because of the oil level. Now I'm not a mechanic nor a brain surgeon but I certainly do know that low oil levels will not cause a car to lunge forward. I asked the manager at ballas if he was "just going to let me walk out of there with a dangerous vehicle" and he said "there is nothing I can do". I've seen other complaints on line with the same problem. I paid $144 for them to do absolutely nothing to my car. If it were low on oil, why didn't they just add oil. No, they performed a whole oil change which I just had done less than a month ago. They kept saying "well, you didn't bring it here, you went somewhere else" so? gm needs to recall this part and make their dealerships replace it no questions asked before someone gets killed.

My vehicle issue is that the exhaust valves were bent due to a valve cover bolt that released and damaged head valves and head on motor. This is a factory issue due to the bolt releasing. I am being held responsible for vehicle and only owned vehicle for less then 2 years. For replacement head cost and or replacing the motor itself is a costly situation. My vehicle was parked in city limits and when attempting to start,would try to turn over but just keep spinning without full crank. I shouldn't be replacing the motor on vehicle that is still well under 100,000 miles and no major issue prior.

I was driving down the highway with my grandchildren. I was going 50 miles an hour and all of a sudden no warning the car like stalled and reduced engine power light came on . Car stalled and I started it but wouldn't let me go anywhere! it was dangerous and could have gotten us killed! I called gm to report it for a safety recall. I had to pay $120 for a tow. Took to Buick dealer it was a screw that wasn't torque right on the timing chain. I had to pay $500 . I shouldn't had to pay anything. Now I no longer have the confidence in the name or my car. It runs rough and it starts terrible shaky. Only 50,000 miles on it. Can you imagine being on a highway and your car stalls. Thank god no one was behind me. I have receipts from tow company and the Buick dealer but they would not give me the papers to my vehicle. That had exactly what they did. So on my receipt it says miscellaneous! they refused to give me anything else. My car has 54,000 some miles. My warranty expired in February 2016 only had the car a little over a year. For some reason I could not put the mileage below.

There was a recall of the key and "fob" for 2010-2014 chevy camaros because the key could be bumped by someone's knee or some similar issue. The key of my 2011 Buick Regal broke, and I believe it has the same construction as the camaro. By broke I mean that the metal part the flips the key in and out the fob (when you press a button) actually broke, luckily while my wife was turning off the ignition. I therefore suspect that since the camaro and Buick are built by gm and probably share the same key/fob design, I'm experiencing the same problem as the drivers of the recalled camaros, and the key/fob of the 2011 Buick Regals should also be recalled.

When I came to a stop the car stalled. Returned to dealer and they could not find any problem. On 5/29/13 I was making a u turn and when the turn was completed the car stalled again this was on a busy highway. Car is in shop now and again, they can't duplicate problem. This is extremely dangerous.

Six months after purchasing this used vehicle (with 29,000 miles on it) it completely stalled on the interstate while driving about 65 mph. It started braking by itself making it difficult to get to an emergency pull off area. This could have caused a serious accident considering it was rush hour. I took it to the dealership where they told me that the "throttle body" needed to be replaced. After getting it repaired the car drove fine until this year. At about 55,000 miles my car would start shaking very hard, brake pedal was almost to the floor, and it was almost impossible accelerate. I had to pull over and restart the car. This happened atleast 4 times. Eventually my car stalled out on me again while driving on the interstate. Once again this February the dealership blamed it on the "throttle body" and a powerline that was "completely corroded". After having them replaced, it drove ok for only a couple of months. Then all of a sudden in June my car started shaking very badly while driving on the interstate and I noticed that my brake was stuck I put my foot under the brake pedal to pop it out and the car then drove ok. I took it to the dealership and go figure the "throttle body" needed to be replaced, brake master cylinder had to be replaced, brake vacuum booster needed service, brake fluid system had to be flushed, and the engine air filter needed to be replaced. I walked away with a $300 bill because the warranty only covered some of the problems. One week later while it was pouring rain I was driving on the interstate and my car completely stalled for the 3rd time. A tractor trailor almost lost control trying to prevent hitting me as I slid off the interstate. Once I was safe I tried to restart it and the key broke off in the ignition. Now the immobilizer module has to be replaced. Please note that I keep the maintenance up on this vehicle.

While travelling 55 miles per hour on the high way the car shut off causing me to force the wheel on the road. I reported this and was given rental cars for the noises and belts to be examined. The noise subsided a few weeks only to return when driving about 45 miles per hour and the car cut off again. This time in traffic March 2013. The thrid time was in April 2013 . The last time was June 16, 2013. It has been in the shop over 45 days. Nothing was told to me was wrong. Then why is it shutting off while im driving?.