general problems of the 2015 Chevrolet Trax

My radio turns up and changes by itself . It’s leaking oil an I’ve replaced everything a can’t figure it out , if anything it’s the engine it just won’t make sense . I dumped so much money into it already.

The contact owns a 2015 Chevrolet Trax. The contact stated that upon entering the vehicle, the vehicle failed to emit an audible chime, indicating that the seat belts had not been fastened. While driving at an undisclosed speed, the contact heard an abnormal clicking sound coming from the front end of the vehicle. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who was unable to determine the cause of the failure. The vehicle was then taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed a failure with the passenger’s side upper control arm. The vehicle was repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 19v652000 (suspension) and NHTSA campaign number: 16v422000 (electrical system, equipment) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 94,000.

The contact owns a 2015 Chevrolet Trax. The contact stated while driving 65 mph, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled without warning. The contact pulled over to the side of the road and had the vehicle tow to the dealer. The dealer replaced the fuel module, but the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was towed to the dealer however, no cause for the failure was found. The dealer however, stated that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 116,959.

I have recently heard what could best be described as a squealing sound. I could also smell fuel inside the vehicle while driving. I thought it was oil that had leaked onto the serpentine belt and had it replaced but the noise continued. Listening closer I realized it was coming from the area around the intake manifold. Searching online I found several youtube videos and comments from people mentioning loose spark plugs caused their issue. Checking mine I found that two of the four spark plugs were loose enough to not require a wrench to remove them. Tightening them eliminated the noise. I have owned this vehicle since it was brand new and have never asked a mechanic to check or replace spark plugs, nor have I done it myself. I did recently replace the intake manifold, which required removing and reinstalling the ignition coil. I feel like loose spark plugs represent a fire hazard as it allow the fuel to blow past the cylinders and into the engine compartment.

I have had multiple engine problems with my Trax. For starters, shortly after I bought it in 2021 I had to have the radiator replaced, then in Aug or sept 2022 I had to have the coil pack replaced, the in oct 2022 the turbo needed to be replaced. Exactly 1 year after replacing the turbo, I had to replace it again in oct 2023. Now I'm being told that these cars are having problems with piston rings going out. After repleacing the turbo once again, my car was still acting up. I took it back to the mechanic and they told me my piston rings are shot. Due to this issue, I now need a new motor. I've been told by 3 different automotive shops that they have replaced several engine in the past 5 months due to the piston rings and turbo going out in them. My car is a sitting duck. I'm highly mad. To add full to the fire, some of my features are not working due to an electrical issue.

When I’m driving I started to hear the gear shifter sound like it’s moving inbetween drive or maybe out of drive I’m not really sure. Then after that happens when I stop driving and turn the car off the car won’t release the key from the ignition. I have to wait for it to lock itself into park and then the key will release.

#1 - safety issue of the passenger rear door's lock will not lock/unlock (button will not go up and down) to be able to get in or out of car from the back seat - the 'motor'? can be heard engaging when either the door lock/unlock button is pressed or the key fob is pressed to lock/unlock - but the button is stuck in a position that you cannot pull it up to get in or out of the car. ------ #2 - safety issue of the back seat safety belts near door continues to twist within an area that cannot easily be gotten to, causing the safety belt to not be able to be pulled out or retract - making them unable to be used, as they are jammed and cannot fit around a person to lock into the clasp to hold them into the back seat. Safety issue of the passenger rear door's lock will not lock/unlock (button will not go up and down) to be able to get in or out of car from the back seat - the 'motor'? can be heard engaging when either the door lock/unlock button is pressed or the key fob is pressed to lock/unlock - but the button is stuck in a position that you cannot pull it up to get in or out of the car. Both incidents occurred after purchase in November, 2020 at first city used auto, gonic nh and they would not claim responsibility to fix, despite both issues being safety issues/defects of car.

I have had to take my vehicle in several times for repair I am the first owner of this vehicle and it only has 87,000 miles on it. At 87,000 miles I have had to have the valve cover replaced for leaking. I have also had to have an oil pan leak replaced. An oil pan pin gasket replaced. And now my seat belt indicator light is not making noise when the seatbelt is not buckled in. I have tried to drive without a seatbelt on city streets and highways to see if the light would make noise and it does not the light is on on the dashboard but no noise is made to indicate that the seat belt is not on.

When ever you reset the date & time on the car it only stays correct during the time you are in the car traveling. Once you turn the car off & turn it back on, the time has changed & sometimes the date.

I was driving my 2015 chev Trax and all of a sudden the vehicle started idling very rough and I was not able to accelerate. When I would push on the accelerator it would go down but the car would not speed up. I took the vehicle home and the next day I took it to an auto repair place where the mechanic said that there were multiple miscodes firing and that the check engine light was flashing.

Relay system- truck relay went out multiple times, unable to open trunk. When replaced caused all relays including (airbag, headlights, dash board, and trunk relays) to no longer work. Have had mechanic reprogram system but no longer works.

The vehicle will stall while driving and not turn back on unless the vehicle is in park and the key is taken out and put back in. This is a severe safety hazard as it has almost caused me to crash multiple times and the dealership says they cannot find anything wrong with it.

Check engine light came on while driving city streets and there were no other symptoms. It was intermittent. Took car to the dealership and they fixed some loose computer connectors. Two weeks later check engine light came on. Stability control off light came on. At one point lost power steering and the dashboard display including speedometer zeroed out for a few seconds while driving city streets. Driving on the highway the car got to 4000rpm without properly shifting for the entire drive. Took car to dealership again and they fixed a different loose ground connection for the computer. On the drive home in city streets the check engine light came on intermittently and the stability control off light came on. Engine would not shift into a proper gear and drove at close to 3000 rpm instead of the 2000 usual rpm. Rear view camera would not function.

Even after removing the key from the ignition, the car will chime like the key is still in it. After the allotted 10 mins, the radio will not automatically turn off which in turn is killing the battery. The key fobs will no longer work due to the car thinking the key is still in the ignition.