general problems of the 2011 Chevrolet Volt

Driver display is blank (no speed, gear position, odometer, gas tank, etc), with the exception of some warning icons like tire pressure and passenger seat belt status. Does no return after turning off power.

Driver instrument panel went blank. Speedometer, fuel/battery gauge, odometer, etc are all gone. The screen display light lit on and off in the background without any information.

Charging station over heated and the plug burnt my wall plug.

Instrument cluster, which displays speed, odometer and fuel lever among other safety information, started to glitch towards that end of a trip of about two hours. At first the screen would flicker but would eventually reboot and the information was available shortly after. Next morning the screen would turn on slowly at first, but then it went out again and never started again ever since.

Tl the contact owns a 2011 Chevrolet Volt. The contact stated that while driving at 65 mph, the instrument panel became inoperable without warning. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed nor repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 117,000.

Since the spring of 2020, "service air bag" warning comes on intermittently, related to passenger seat airbag. Warning generally comes on at startup, if it appears. No fluids have been spilled on the seat, and no visible damage to the seat. I am the second owner, purchased from friend, car has always been garaged and serviced regularly. Online search suggests that other owners have same issue, and that diagnosis and repair can be $500 to $1000. I have not had a Chevrolet dealer diagnose this issue since it is intermittent. Current market value of vehicle (55k miles, otherwise excellent condition, a great car to drive) makes cost of repair difficult to justify, especially if it could happen again without warning.

When below freezing out main display containing speed, directional, gear select, tire pressure and fuel is black. Only after temp goes above freezing does display go back to normal.

The heat will not work in the car when the car is using the battery - heat will only work when the engine is running.

Instrument cluster went black dark no visibility mph , fuel level, while I was driving at night. It felt very dangerous.

While driving on the morning of may 30, 2019, the driver side instrument cluster went blank. I pulled off the road to initiate a full shutdown of the vehicle. Upon startup, the display came back on for 5 seconds, then went totally blank again. The instrument cluster never came back on. Dealer analysis revealed a short in the lcd panel caused the instrument cluster to be inoperable.

Driver instrument cluster , speedometer, gas / electric gauge unreadable.

In the 6 years that I've had this vehicle, the power cord has burn through 2 times and the receptacle in which it was plugged was burned out 4 times. I'm fortunate my house hasn't caught fire. I feel this is gm's responsibility and I should not have to pay for the 2nd replacement of this cord.

Instrument cluster display goes black while driving. Web search indicates this is a common issue.

Driver's instrument panel (lcd display) blackout. The lcd display simply did not come on as it normally did when I turned on the vehicle. I am driving "blind" can't tell how fast I'm going, how much gas is left, can't see if the turn signals are blinking, don't know how much charge I have on the battery etc. Etc. I've waited for 4 days now to see if the display comes on on its own for some reason; however, it is time to take it to the dealer; it is not safe to drive it this way.

Driver instrument panel went dark and won't turn on. Loss of all speed, turn signal, and warning display.

Driver display shuts off while in motion driving usually in cold weather. Temperature usually around 0 degrees celsius and below. Consistently every morning at cold start 1-2 mins into drive. This results in no speedometer. The only way to fix the problem is to pull and reinstall display fuse or turn car off for a few minutes and restart. Many Volts are having this issue. Please order an investigation as this is a major NHTSA violation. Had to the dealer and called gm customer care. Both told me I was crazy. This is unacceptable. I have a video screenshot attached.

When the engine is turned off a warning light comes on stating that the vehicle is not in park. However, the engine is in park. Engine does not want to shut down.

Our Volt was left overnight to charge using the supplied 120v level one charge cord that comes with the vehicle (therefore I consider it part of the vehicle. ) in the morning the vehicle was not charged -- at some point during the night the charge failed after the battery accumulated just 5 miles of estimated range. The socket into which the charge cord had been plugged, the receptacle of a kill-a-watt charge measuring device, was scorched and partially melted. There may have been a small electrical fire at the point where the Volt's cord plugged into the device, but it is impossible to say. This seems to have happened because the strain relief on the cord was torn in half and the wires it was supposed to protect became exposed to the outside and perhaps to each other. It is quite likely that these exposed charge cord wires shorted against something inside the charge cord assembly, and that short caused the damage where the cord was plugged in at its wall end. Guaranty Chevrolet took possession of the cord (at gm's request) and ordered a new one under warranty, so the cord itself is no longer available for inspection. I still have the kill-a-watt device, and, despite the obvious visible damage, it still works. (I don't use it, though. ) to me the strain relief on this cord was very flimsy. The material seemed too soft an pliable to do very much. The replacement seemed to be no different apart from one additional flex segment. I was not impressed, but so far the failure has not repeated. I have photos if you would like to see them. Photos of the old cord, the melted socket and the new cord. Also, I used a new kill-a-watt on this car after the incident and on other electric cars with no problems. It may be tempting to blame this device, but it has a sufficient amp rating and the problem happened on a day the strain relief failed.