Alternator/generator/regulator problems of the 2007 Dodge Caliber

I was driving and the battery light came on. Later on when about 100 miles from home there are several other lights that come on and then while running approx 60mph the car just shuts down in the middle of the road. After replacing the alternator and battery the battery light continues to stay on. I take the car to a local garage to find out the tipm needs to be replaced which appears to cost over $1000 in which I do not have to spend.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber awd. While driving 40 mph, the check engine warning indicator illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence where an independent mechanic replaced the alternator; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not taken to an authorized dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 172,227.

Bad pcm. I'm driving with my daughter in the car and it just shuts off almost causing the person driving behind me to hit us. So far I've repaced the battery, alternator, cables, and now pcm. If I could afford to get another car I would in a heartbeat. I feel so unsafe driving this car.

Four four months now my car has intermittently experienced electrical failures including stuttering, dashboard lights flashing on and off, windshield wipers coming on their own and total shutdown all while the car is in motion at varying speeds. I have had my alternator replaced twice, my battery replaced and my spark plugs changed out. I have researched and am fairly certain it is my tipm which is a common problem for my make and model of car that Dodge has decided isn't worth their time to fix. I have almost crashed multiple times due to the random failure of my tipm and thusly find it unsafe to drive my vehicle anymore.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 30 mph, the engine stalled without warning. The failure occurred three times and failed to start on each occasion. As a result, the vehicle was towed each time to an independent mechanic where the link wire and the alternator were both replaced. On a separate occasion, the vehicle was taken to the dealer, who updated the computerized system but the failure persisted. The vehicle had not been repaired for most recent failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 116,000.

Have had sporadic electrical issues for the last few years, chalked it up to normal wear & tear. After looking at other testimonies online, beginning to realize the issues I've had are similar to those of other Caliber owners. Just replaced the alternator in June 2014 and now car is shutting off while driving down the road. Check engine light has been on for 3 weeks and will randomly not be on for a series of drives only to come back on again. Dashboard lights do not come on all the time, I'd say more often than not night driving is done with no dashboard lights. I change headlights & taillights frequently. About to head to autozone now to have it hooked up to diagnostic machine to see if any codes come up for check engine light. Chrysler needs to do a recall ASAP or there will be several peoples lives at risk, including my entire family seeing as how this is our main vehicle.

I have had numerous problems with this vehicle with the tipm (total integrated power module. ) first the a/c blew, then the alternator blew, then the windows started malfunctioning. Now the car slows itself on the interstate and will not maintain speed. The low beam headlight on the drivers side will not function properly either. This car has major electrical issues and apparently is a common problem with this make and model of car. There needs to be a recall on this vehicle.

Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.

I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car. As I started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the I heard a whining sound from the right front tire. I was about a mile from my repair shop so I had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where I found out that the subframe was completely rotted through. In the last year, I have had to replace upper and lower control arms and the alternator.

My car started making a noise and idling high last year. It started cutting itself off and eventually it wouldn't start. I replaced the alternator and battery. Now less than a year later 2014, the low lights don't work and it is starting to make the same noise and cut itself off. Now I'm being told its the total integrated power module.

Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the Dodge Caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that Dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel I should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of Caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! I would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.

The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this I researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.

I purchased the car in December 2011 with the front struts needing to be replaced. The day I bought it, the electrical throttle system light came on and it shook violently and shut off. I waited a few minutes and it started back up. After replacing the struts, and the tire rod ends, the car was fine. By August 2012, the ball joints and tire rod ends needed to be replaced again, and this time the control arm, so I replaced them. In November 2012, I replaced the battery and alternator. In February 2013, the car began shutting off as I would accelerate, making the creaking and rattling noises near the front tires, and the steering wheel would shake and the wheels would sound like they would come off as I would brake from highway speeds. So I took the car to the shop, and once again, the ball joints, tire rod ends, crank shaft, spark plugs, coil pack, oil sensor and a few other things. My check engine light is back on, and it reads gascap, so I replaced it, and two weeks later it is still on. And here it is March 14, 2013 I am hearing the creaking and rattling noises again, and the wobbling sound of the tires and shaking of the steering wheel when I break. Just this morning on my way taking my kids to school, pulling away from a stop light, the car was cutting off. This car is not safe, and I have children. I cannot afford to keep shelling out 1,000 dollars to fix this car every month or every few months. What can be done about this????.

First my car started to sound like a dryer full of ball bearings the ball bearing the oem ones in the alternator went out. There is no replacement pulley so the whole alternator had to be replaced $600+ (found out this is a common problem in 2007 Dodge Calibers) then while pulling out of the parking lot my tire fell off due to faulty/worn-out I ball joints and upper and lower control arms. . Had to replace the entire front end suspension $1400+! (this is a major complaint as I have found online. I have read over 200 different complaint statements) not to mention my abs light was on and they had to change out my speed sensor 100 +. Then my ck engine light came on 2 weeks after the entire front end suspension was replaced when I drove the car it would shake and acted like it was losing power & would not let me accelerate past 35 mph. I took it in it had several stored codes. One was then intake manifold was stuck and the other was the camshaft. . They cleared it out and only the manifold came back up so they said I had to replace that. We did $800 + I picked it up & a day later it was doing the same thing now saying multi. Cylinder misfire & camshaft they cleared it and test drove it but it did not come back on so the Dodge tech. Has no clue what to do to fix it & no clue on the cost ( this has also been a problem on 2007 Dodge Calibers) this has all happened within the last 3 months and my car has about 86000 to 87000 mi on it! I?m fed up this car is falling apart. As I have read Dodge knows of these issues & has done nothing about it I have also called and made my complaint no call back yet. . Any open lawsuits on this? I would even be happy if Dodge would reimburse me for these issues as obviously they are well documented known issues. I have spent way to much on this car in 3 months and @ 7 months pregnant with a 6 year old I need a safe reliable car!.

Last week I started noticing a loud rattle in the engine of my Caliber. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the belt tensioner. I got it replaced and it got rid of the squeaking noise but not the rattle. I did research online and discovered that many people were having alternator problems and showed similar symtoms as mine did. I contacted the dealer and said that it would be $680 to replace. I decided to go with another mechanic because it was cheaper. This mechanic replaced it and showed me the old part, it was completely burnt. He said that there should be no way that a car with 60,000 miles on it should have an alternator in this condition. He also mention that it could have caught on fire. Why is there not a recall on this?.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. In addition, the electronic throttle control warning light was illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The vehicle was inspected by an independent mechanic who advised that the alternator needed to be replaced. The dealer was contacted and the part was ordered. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.

Had to replace alternator and my airbag light continually comes on. My sister has the same problem with her Dodge and hers is a different model. .

On Saturday, 5/30/09, while driving Dodge Caliber 2007 back home, all instrument gauges needles suddenly and erratically swing up and down. I started smelling a rotten-egg sulfur odor and experienced mild throat and lung irritation. As soon as I arrived home, with engine still running, I started investigating the cause of gauges needles erratic motion and source of sulfur odor. First, I checked the recently replaced manufacturer original alternator, which has recently catastrophically failed. Please see recently filed 5/16/09, NHTSA safety complaint, odi #10268931. After I verified that the new alternator was working correctly, I started sniffing and tracing the source of sulfur odor. First, I thought odor was coming from computer module; then, I thought it was coming from fuse box next to computer module. As I sniffed closer to fuse box, under plastic engine air intake manifold, I noticed battery squirting boiling-steaming sulfuric acid. I found the source of rotten-egg sulfur odor. I removed the air intake manifold to fully expose the battery and take photos. Luckily, I only suffered mild irritation to my throat and lungs, but I could have been fatally exposed to sulfuric acid gas poisoning, or battery could have exploded with fatal outcome. Photos and battery are available for your review. I don not know if unsafe catastrophic failure of original manufacturer alternator caused this unsafe catastrophic failure of manufacturer original battery or vice-versa.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle made an abnormal noise in the front end. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the driver and passenger side ball joints and control arms failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. While driving at various speeds, the windshield wipers would independently activate. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control warning indicator would illuminate on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.