general problems of the 2010 Dodge Caliber

The contact owns a 2010 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while his wife was driving at an undisclosed speed, the engine unexpectedly shut off. The vehicle was able to be restarted. The engine oil warning light as intermittently illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, but no cause of failure was found. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure recurred. The contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 14v373000 (electrical system, air bags); however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 103,000.

While driving vehicle during winter, heat shut off. After turning heat back on (moving knob to off position and then back on) there was an electrical smoke smell in the cabin. Once the vehicle was parked, a large amount of smoke appeared to be coming from the air conditioner blower control knob and the area above the knob was hot to the touch almost to the point where I was concerned that I may need to call the fire department to have them check for fire. When car was turned on again, the blower motor would not start.

Electrical throttle control light has popped up several times and I've noticed it's when it has rained. When this happens, the car slows down and causes forcefully pull over and shut the car off. It doesn't start after the first few tries and eventually does. The car began to overheat after driving it over 60mph for about 20mins. The car has given me the engine coolant temperature warning symbol when this happens, making an ugly almost screeching sound,slows down the car until I can't push the gas any longer causing me to pull over to turn off the car until it restarts again. The car is beginning to over heat after driving it for a long period of time over 20 mins this will began to happen. I've put coolant recently and not sure if there's a hole in the reservoir but I've done what I could to get this fixed. The car jolts after 3rd gear especially going up hill.

While I was driving on the turnpike (70 mph) my etc light began flashing and my car began to shake and drop down in speed. Luckily, I was able to move off to the side of the road quick enough before I was in a serious accident. My car ultimately ended having to be towed because the etc light would not turn off and I could not get the car to drive more than 2-5 mph. I am getting rid of this car. It was a very scary experience and I no longer feel safe in it since I take the turn pike every day.

The contact owns a 2010 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving at approximately 55 mph, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle restarted after the first attempt. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000. The VIN was unavailable.

Smoke was coming out of the off and on knob for heat/air. . I also had a cd in my cd player as I was traveling on a royal road, a strange smell was also coming from the smoke. I pulled over lifted the hood and seen no fire. I turned the knob off, removed the cd and waited a few minutes and started my car. I am wary to put a cd back in the player. . . I think that is what caused it but it may have been my temperature knob,, had the blower on for cool air vent. . . . Not ac or heat, just vent air on high.

Started my car this morning and let it run for awhile(5 min) until rpms went down, its 12 degrees outside, I drove through my parking lot maybe 20 ft and throttle warning light came on, I didn't know what it was at first but I researched while letting my car idle it sort of pulsated. When I went to accelerate it would barely move, thank god I was not on the highway as I was about to go to work. Ive had nothing but problems with this car since I bought it 2 yrs ago!! I asked the dealership for a safe reliable car, and this is what they found smh!!.

Power in vehicle began to drain 47 miles from my house going 60 to 75mph after going 75 to 80 mph temperature out side is about 50 degrees. The car acts as if it were going to stall the radio power went out. After that I tested to see if it were the lights still worked and upon turning the lights on all lights in the car dimed completely. I went 28 miles to my appointment with no accessories on to include the heater. And radio would not get power until sitting for 30min. On the trip retuning home 30miles in to my trip returning home going 60 to 75 miles highest speed for 20miles of the first 30 miles the car power started to drain. Just took it to big o tires today and was confirmed no battery issues the battery is in good condition. I have to spend $100 to do testing now. It is winter here I can not risk my life in a car that can not operate in the cold or after only 44000 miles acts like it will not operate. It happened before at highway speeds last year when I hit 35000 miles. I did some research online that this has happened in warmer climates as well at 55000 miles. Please look in to this I no longer trust my car to drive 75mph on highway. And I dear not go 75miles away from home if it can't take a 150 mile trip its not worth paying of a car last check the loan is $11,000. If the problems were known the car should have never been resold by any dealer. If I was not able to use another car I would be more upset than I am now this car is only good for an elder to go to the store and back. I wont be using this car outside my city limits its not safe.

While driving my car my transaxle overheating light will illiminate. My car will slow down and not keep the speed up. I have to pull over until the light goes out then I can continue my driving but it will do it all again 10 miles down the road. This happens about an hour after driving it on the highway at 70 mph I was just on a trip 2 hours from home. In a 30 minute time frame I had to pull over 6 times because of this. I have not taken it to the dealership and it has not been fixed. I have noticed many people are having the same problem why has this not been recalled yet?.

My 2010 Dodge Caliber has started this sputtering thing. I indicated several problems because I just don't know what the problem is. Sometimes it hesitates to start and I have noticed that intermittently it has sort of jerked, but today, it just sputtered and tried to shut down in the middle of an intersection as I was turning into oncoming traffic. Although I have owned this vehicle for a little over 3 years, the milage is only 53,000 miles. I am old and disabled. I don't know what I would have done if I had to walk. It acts like it is either a problem with the transmission or that the electrical system is trying to shut it down. I am not sure. Before I go putting fuel injector cleaner in it or, try doing anything on my own, I need some answers. Also it isn't even paid for yet! it was a "program" vehicle before I bought it. However the issues that have been going on with the sputtering started about Jan. 2014. I never have received notice of any recalls but I am about to take it to the Dodge dealer and find out what is going on. I am very disappointed that this is going on. I am old and need my vehicle to complete every day tasks. I also don't go anywhere very often and don't know where to take my vehicle because of the money hungry mechanics that are kind of shady out there, and I don't know what to do about this. I read numerous reviews on here and I do think I may be having the same issue of many regarding the transmission, hesitation, and seems to be trying to shut down on me in the most unlikely places, light coming on and system shutting down and trying to stall. Someone needs to do something about this immediately!.

I was at a light in 3 lane traffic when the light changed my car began lunging and sputtering finally losing power. The electronic throttle control light began flashing. I can't even find a diagram online to tell me where that is located. On Caliber forumz there are many complaints about this problem. I love my car but it really must be dependable. It would seem with all the complaints that this issue would be addressed.

Steering column shimmies while driving. . . Also the electrical heater/air conditioning does not work just had it replaced with a new motor.

Noticed loss in acceleration power here and there over a few months time as well as the ect light flash on for a quick moment a few times. One day I was driving and came to a stop light and when I tried to take off from the stop the whole car started shaking and knocking then cut off all while having the etc light illuminated. Once this happened I could barely make it up the steep hill back to my home. I ended up having the car towed and taken to the dealership where I was informed I would have to replace the throttle body control unit for around $700! I have only had this car 2 and 1/2 years and this is not the first major issue. Chrysler needs to recall the ect that they are using I also have a 2012 Jeep compass that I have had 2 months and having the same issues.

My Dodge has been stalling at red lights for the past year. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they cannot replicate the issue nor can they find a code on the computer scan. They do however, recommend flushes etc. The issue has not gone away. If I am at a red light with the ac on (automatic transmission), it will idle very loud and rough and the tachometer will bounce up and down. It will also stall out at times when I move my foot from the break to the gas. If I turn the ac off it will keep it from idling rough and stalling. I also have an issue when I start my car up, put it in reverse then put it back in drive; that I all electrical power for 10 seconds. The radio turns off, the brake warning light and other dash board lights come on and then the electrical power will come back on. It is almost like the car is resetting its self; I do not lose my radio presets however.

My car's speed accelerate/jumps when struggling to get to second gear.

The contact owns a 2010 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while traveling 75 mph, the vehicle suddenly stalled. The contact mentioned that the electronic components in the vehicle also failed. The vehicle was moved to the shoulder where it was restarted and resumed normal function. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure could not be replicated. The failure recurred and the contact was awaiting a second diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 68,000.

When getting a jump from another car the computer went out had to pay a little under $900 dollars. The struts are also going out. The car is making a rowing noise. Sometimes the car did not have pick up or speed when stepping on accelerator.