general problems of the 2012 Dodge Charger

Tl- the contact owns a 2012 doge Charger. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph warning lights on the instrument panel suddenly displayed and the vehicles speed suddenly began to reduce. The contact indicated the vehicle would not properly accelerate while pressing the accelerator pedal and the speed would not exceed 10 mph. Also while driving smoke from the air vents was present inside the cabin of the vehicle. The cause of the failure was not determined. The local dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 165,000. Jft.

When starting my car the radio sometimes don't come on. I have to put the car in park shut off the car and restart it in order for the radio to come on. When driving and listening to the radio it goes in and out as if the dj is trying to block out profantiy but that's not the case. Also, when driving and I make a u-turn it feels as if the steering wheel is trying to lock up.

Power steering fails, making it difficult to maneuver hard turns. This has caused me to go off the road and nearly wreck/strike other cars. After much research this is a common issue in these cars. It occurs at city and highway speeds. It's hard to steer at high and low speeds.

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Charger. While driving approximately 60 mph, there was a rattling noise coming from underneath the vehicle, the contact coasted over to the side of the road and was able to resume driving. The engine stalled without warning, but the vehicle was able to restart. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the pcm module failed. The contact was advised to take the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the throttle body needed to be cleaned. The dealer installed a pcm software, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.

Vehicle's abs and traction control warning lights came on, battery saver mode turned on then off again, radio display screen shut off, rpm's spiked, dash display screen turned white then all power to vehicle shut off.

I pulled into an intersection and the electrical on the vehicle started flashing off and on. Dashboard, wipers, radio, transmission and engine stuttering and stalling. I made it through the intersection, and about 20 feet from it before the car shut off completely. There was minimal power, so the hazards worked, but the key fob was not detected (I just bought a new battery for it last week), the warning lights on the dashboard continued to flicker each time I tried to restart it. The middle screen came up blank or white, and it would take several seconds before the button/start indicator would move from the "run" to the "off" position. The battery was obviously dead, but when a passerby stopped to help me try to jump it, it wouldn't take a charge. The electrical capacity continued to diminish as I tried to start it, or try different things to get it to work. The great shift locked up so I couldn't put it in neutral to roll the car out of the way. Since it was 4:30 on a busy, divided highway during a torrential downpour, I was terrified someone was going to hit me from behind. Fortunately ocso arrived to help divert traffic, and he helped me figure out where the emergency disconnect was for the transmission so we could push it off the road. Aaa came but it wouldn't stay charged. I was able to drive it home with the travel Charger on it. I tried to jump it again several times, with no luck, it was completely dead. So, $800 later, I have a new battery, new alternator, and feel lucky that I didn't get stuck in the intersection, get rear-ended, or hadn't left on my trip to north carolina yet. It was an extremely dangerous situation, that could have been a lot worse, and there was absolutely no warning or indication that the alternator had gone bad. I know I'm not the only one that has experienced this based on a google search, and appreciate that the NHTSA is investigating.

I was driving my vehicle in rush hour, stop and go traffic. I came to a stop because of traffic congestion and my abs and other warning lights became illuminated. There was no previous warning. The car ceased to function. Electric systems were locked and I was left immobile in the middle of traffic. I called a local tow truck from my cell phonw and the car was towed to the local dealer. The diagnosis was alternator and battery needed to be replaced. The car was running fine in the days/weeks leading up to this incident.

Driving to work, at about 45 mph, I saw a message on my dashboard read battery saver mode followed by a humming noise throughout the car. I then started to pull out of the freeway and my anti-skid lights flashed on and off, along with other unidentifiable dashboard lights. I managed to get into a gas station right before my car shut off completely. Per the dealer, alternator failure caused battery to shut down. How does an alternator fail on a car 2 1/2 years old? I have read so many complaints on this issue yet not recalls. Something needs to be done. I am still waiting to see if my extended warranty will cover costs, as I am 1000 miles out of my manufacturer warranty.

I had just got off of the high way and it appeared that my car wasn't driving to it's full speed. As I got a bit closer to my destination my radio cut off and the abs light came on. As I pulled in the driveway the car shut off and I tried to start it back but the power was out from there. I had no clue what happen I just figured that a light may have been left on accidentally or something but that wasn't the case. I tried to get a jump but the car started literally for 10 seconds and no more after that.

While driving my entire instrument panel started shorting out. Before I was able to stop my car it completely died leavin me without steering capability. I couldn't even open the trunk where the actual battery is. The battery was completely dead. The problem turned out to be the alternator. I had to repair the alternator rotor and get a new rectifier and bearings. The manufacturer would not cover this under warranty. I believe this part was faulty and should be recalled. Apparently the premature failure of this part it is commonplace for this vehicle. I wasn't going very fast and was able to begin pulling over and slowing down. As it was I did not have enough inertia and was still partially in the road way. Had I been on the freeway, this could have been deadly. I did not even receive a battery low warning previous to this incident.

Battery light went on, then the electrical light went on then all the lights started flashing. Steering wheel was hard to move, car gave me just enough power to drive onto the side of the road into the bike lane. Then the car wouldn't go in to any position except drive, the car wouldn't turn off, all electric went out. After about 25 minutes of the car trying to drive by itself and heating up with smoke, the car finally lost all power and turned off allowing me to put it in drive and turn on the hazard lights. Then the screen and lights continued to go of and on and continued until a service truck was able to tow me. He charged the battery to allow me to roll windows up and stated it was the alternator not holding power to the car.

While driving my several of my dashboard lights flickered while driving over 50 miles an hour (note: although I selected 50 mph, I drove at varying speeds due to start/stop traffic - the initial issues happened at above 50 mph), I started smelling burning smell - likely wires and became concerned, I also heard a strange whizzing sound. I kept driving when gradually my car began to lose power, the dashboard notified me that it was going into battery saving mode and then less than a minute or two later, my power steering was gone instantly, the car stalled in the middle of traffic as I was coming around a turn, hoping to avoid an accident in the middle of rush hour. I was able to make it to the hill ahead and let gravity pull me into a safer place. I did not know what happened. I called for a tow truck and had no power left, not even enough to turn on the flashers. The car did not restart. I had the car towed to sears for a charging system diagnostic and turned out that the alternator was dead. The battery was also dead. I paid for a new battery and confirmed that the alternator was not charging the new die-hard advanced gold battery I just purchased. I had it towed a second time to take it to the Dodge dealer because I was informed that it was unsafe to drive it, even though the dealer was only 16 mins away that same day. The dealer confirmed that the alternator was dead. We will confirm main cause today. This car is a 2012 and I could not understand how a car that new even with 101,000 (a large % are highway miles) could have a bad alternator go that soon. So far, my bill will be over $1000 just to replace the alternator in addition to the $233 I had to pay for the battery at sears. More diagnostics are being done at this time. They mentioned that it was unrelated to any prior recalls.