general problems of the 2014 Dodge Dart - part 2

My car was parked. I turned my car on and pushed the brake, my shifter would change to different gears on the lighted display but would not actually go into reverse, neutral, drive. My car was stuck in park. Upon examination from a mechanic my shifter cable was loose and this had to be repaired. I have seen numerous complaints with this same issue upon online research. I called the dealership and was told this was not part of my warranty. This would be a safety issue if this was to come loose upon my daily commute on a busy interstate. I am concerned for my safety if my vehicle was stuck in drive or reverse. I am thankful this time I was in park,.

My car pop in to neutral it want go into park or drive, it's staying in neutral the key want release because of the car being stuck in neutral.

Purchased 2014 Dodge Dart from Subaru of cherry hill, NJ dealership 5/2019 @ 44,000mi. Used. Excellent carfax. Since ownership, vehicle has stopped twice; once while slowed down to make a left turn, and again while stopped at a red light. Battery light did not come on either time. 3rd time vehicle didn't start after being parked for approximately 10 hrs. Needed to be jumped. After first incident of stopping, vehicle was towed to mechanic; couldn't find problem. Battery checked out as ok. Oil change performed at 47,351mi. Also, since being purchased, a slightly sweet smell comes out of fan. Does not go away. Concerned that the vehicle will stop while on a highway, causing a multi-vehicle crash. This seems very unsafe. Upon investigation, no recall was noted. Dealership called to discuss further without response. This is a very dangerous situation and there needs to be a recall. Many other drivers seem to have the same issues when searched online. Please help! most recent episode was 2/13/19.

Transmission slips into neutral while driving causing the car to lose mobility causing a major safety concern.

I have been having trouble when turning off the car the key gets stuck and I can't take it out of the ignition unless I jimmy my gear shift. I noticed the 2014 is recalled and I put my VIN in and it said my car is in fact recalled. What can I do? I am going to put today's date because it happened today, but it happens pretty much every day.

The car turns off when at a stop especially when making a right hand turn or slowing down. The car gives you no warning no lights come on it just turns off. The car has been at the mechanic for over a week and they can not diagnose the problem becomes it comes back on after 3-4 attempts. This is a extreme safety concern for that it turns off completely when at a stop or a light. This can cause a accident and the problem can not be diagnosed yet.

I recently purchased my Dodge Dart 2014 in August of 2018. I purchased the car with around 26,000 miles on it. Great condition, excellent mileage, no accidents, and only one owner. I have only had the car for 5 months. I use it mainly as a commuter car. It started having issues almost as soon as we got it. They were first minor things. Until November 2018. My cars battery died and refused to start. I had to replace out of pocket due to it not being covered by warranty. It was having issues starting, I thought that it was due to it being cold (because it would be fine once it heated up), so at first thought nothing of it. It would start up and I would drive it less then a mile, I would start to slow down and everything would shut off. The heater and the lights would still be on but it would loose acceleration and the battery light would come on. It will do this multiple times until the car is warm(even then it will continue to do it afterward). Rpm drops to zero, check engine, electronic throttle control, and battery light all come on. This is a safety hazard due to it stopping in traffic, on the highway, and in intersections. Something needs to be done about this issue. I have read up on this issue and see that I lot of people have this issue. My car is currently at 24% oil life, I will be testing to see if the issue is resolved(temporarily) like others have been. Due to fear of it not being covered under warranty I have not taken it to the dealer. They quoted me at $400 dollars for everything that could possibly be wrong (based off this information they have an idea of already what is wrong with the car. They still want me to come in and try to charge me for it because it most likely won't be covered by the warranty.

My vehicle is not listed under the recall for transmission control module failure although it did shift into neutral and caused my vehicle to be inoperable. If the transmission shifts into neutral, it can cause loss of motive power, increasing the risk of a vehicle crash. My vehicle was stationary being shifted into drive, after the shifter was moved the vehicle immediately moved into the neutral positon and would not move up or down in order to park it. The emergency parking brake was pulled in order to keep the vehicle stationary and the entire side of the car where the issue was had to be removed, I. E the battery and the compartment that holds the battery in order to gain access to the faulty part and to be able to remove and install a new part. My vehicle however did this because of a faulty shift bushing part that has withered away after only 4 years. The cable unexpectedly released itself from the bushing.

Car stuck on nuetral. Car won't return key. The key is stuck in the vehicle while the vehicle remains on nuetral.

Car keeps stalling on road and not starting. This is an issue that needs to be rectified. Several others have reported the issues as well as far back as 2016. Dodge needs to do something on behalf of customers to clear this horrible safety hazard.

It became more consistent in 2017, my car would stall driving it anywhere from 25 mph -75 mph, some days the steering wheel would lock and the car would turn off and I'd have to wait until it was ready to be back on, just recently multiple times I have had my car turn completely off going 75mph, the dashboard turns off the steering wheel locks and the car shuts off, some times it turns off for not even a minute before it turns back on. Other times I've put my car on cruise control and it's turned off minutes after being set. Was told to change the oil more often which I did at maximum of 3000 miles, on a 2014?! this time (its been several several times already) my car turned off and wouldn't turn back on, tried jump starting it for almost 3 hours and it did nothing to the car, the car didn't budge. The dashboard would flicker on and off and all the switches would go crazy including my windshield wipers that weren't event on in the first place. Used a car battery charger to see if it helped at all, 12 hours later still nothing. I have a two year old and this car is way to dangerous for me to feel safe in!!.

I bought a used 2014 Dodge Dart act in September 2017, in late December early January I brought car in to the dealership because it kept stalling out. They looked at it and said it was because the oil was low. Fast forward to may. I'm on the way to the store and my car stalls out while I'm driving with my 4yr daughter in the car. I got it started back up after a few mins but it stalled out after a min. Then again later in the night 3 more times in less then a quarter mile. This apparently is an ongoing issue amongst other dadge Dart owners. This problem could kill people and Dodge is doing nothing to rectify the situation.

Car shuts off while driving, all electrical loses power. Checked recall, nothing posted. It started about 1 month ago, happens once a week. Check the forum and there are numerous complaints listed about this issue. Dealership wont return call.

My son was driving his car to his friends house. When he arrived he parked his car. About 30 min later when he was ready to leave the car would not switch gears. Luckily my friend is a mechanic and he checked out the car and said it was the transmission control module. My son has only had the car for a few months. I looked online and several people have been complaining of the same issue. When I checked the system said there were no recalls for that VIN #. I believe this issue needs to be addressed and people like me who have had to come out of pocket to fix this issue should be reimbursed.

My vehicle shuts down while driving. I have a battery under warranty. I've gone to the store where the battery was purchased twice and was told the battery and alternator are good. I've had two different auto mechanics check my car and was told the same as the above. One mechanic told me when he applied a diagnostic tool to my car, several factory codes come up. I was told to take my car to a Dodge dealer service center, which I plan to do on Monday 2//12/18. I'm filing this complaint because my neighbor's friend and my sister's male friends girlfriend both own Dodge Darts and are experiencing the same problem. Our cars will shut off while driving. My battery indicator light comes on, however when tested, the battery and alternator indicates they are okay. As I said above, I've had the battery and alternator tested at least four times. Each time I experienced this problem my car was in motion on a street.

When the engine is shut off the key will not come out of the ignition until the gear shift knob is jiggled. This is reoccurring frequently over the last year.

My veh 2014 Dodge Dart sxt as I was driving was stuck in drive & couldn't ge it out of drive or take my key out but as I go online to see has any other Dodge Dart been havin this problem & it was a lot of vehicles havin this same issue I could've wreck my veh while drivin but I guess whom ever made these vehicles doesn't care because the dealership stated this is 1 VIN# that isn't covered under recall but my vehicle is doin the same exact thing as the other Dodge Dart.

For over 2 years my Dodge Dart 2014 bought brand new off a car lot has been having problems with the transmission. Multiple times while driving it would shift into 1 st gear and readline the rpm tach meter and would not shift back up to its proper gear. I have to reset the battery after disconnecting it for 15mins and then sometimes it will continue to operate properly. This has been going on for over 2 years. My car has less than 40,000 miles on. Dodge is just now doing recalls for this problem which is related to the trasmission bushing cable. Just now after its been happening for over 2 years they are trying to offer recalls. I still have yet to be notified officially regarding this matter thru the mail or a phone call, email even. I had to call corporate to ask. Corporate told me something would come in the mail near the end of August. Its the end of August now and still nothing. Then they said to contact local Dodge dealerships and inquire about parts if they had any in stock. They didn't. I don't even drive the car because of this issue. Dodge needs to compensate me back in full and buy back the car or be sued and shut down and no longer allowed to manufacture these pieces of shit. This is insanity. I will never buy another american brand car ever again. Also the gas cap fell off the car and the electronic motor is stripped or defective. Every time I press the button on the driver side of the door to open the gas cap to refill it makes a loud noise for the entire duration of holding down the button. Dodge said there is no recall on that. The front windows also fog up for no reason when its colder. I'm talking about on the inside of the car. Shoddy craftsmenship and should be sued. Ty for reading this.

2014 Dodge Dart ralleye sxt stalls while driving. I have had the battery and alternator tested. The alternator test always yielded a passing score but the battery score was off and on. I had the battery replaced for that reason and still have issues with the car stalling while driving. I've taken it into the Dodge dealership and left without a solution. The car stalled in several places but mainly when I am slowing down at a stop sign/light or behind backed up traffic.

My 2014 Dodge Dart aero 1. 4 turbo will go into limp mode and I have to stop and turn my car completely off and restart is it has done it several times now and I've taken it to 2 or 3 different Dodge dealerships and they say they cannot duplicate the problem I am having.

The car was dying at lights, onramps, offramps, just basically anytime the oil sloshed around enough to lose oil pressure and shut off. After 4k miles, 40% oil life left according to the monitor, the oil doesn't even register on the dipstick, had to add 2-3 quarts. Went to Dodge dealership, dealt with Chrysler case #'s and reps, was promised a fix and never got it. Oh yeah, the dealership tried to charge me hundreds of dollars. Had to argue with chyrsler corporate for weeks to get them to pay. Is it burning? leaking? it's a manufacturing defect for sure. The epa would have a field day. Their emissions are probably completely out the window if they are burning that much oil, or releasing it into the wild 1 drop at a time. I've never seen any accumulating oil in the garage or my parking spot at work. I don't think the epa would like knowing barrels more of oil are being used than advertised. Also, the car has stalled in the middle of an intersection with cars coming up behind me. It's always been to/from work or something like that, and never with my kids and family in the car. But you'd have to think that's a huge lawsuit/tragedy waiting to happen, and yet Chrysler completely says that's within reasonable spec. Where the hell was this "spec" when I purchased the car? the new sticker didn't say "great gas mileage, awesome nav unit, burns 1qt of oil per week" on the window. 20 year old cars have oil level sensors, and warnings about that. Why does this new age car, not have an oil sensor on it to at least warn us of impending doom when the car stalls making a simple turn? there was a dealership franchise chain down in phoenix completely replacing people's engines for free with the 2. 4l tigershark (I think some jeeps and fiat's have them as well). I also heard rumors that somewhere along the lines of 30% of 2. 4l's had the piston rings in backwards?.

At 51000 miles the battery wouldn't stay charged needed an alignment at 2k miles per the dealer not covered under warranty at 46000 miles the ac compressor blew and discharged all the coolant the car was shaking right after the ac repair and smelled like rotten eggs dealer blamed it on a spark plug.

Started having issues when I started leasing it in 2014. It has been taken into the dealership at least 7 times now, due to stalling out. Everytime I take it in,its because of the same issue. It stalls out at all times,whether it be pulling out of my driveway in the morning,turning slowly around the corner,driving on a local side street going 30 mph, when I started to brake before a speed bump, going 60 mph on the highway, I can keep going. Each time I have been given the run around, problem can't be duplicated, so lets guess. Pcm replaced a couple times as well as the flash updates performed, pcv valve replaced multiple times and it still stalls out. Have even had to pay for a battery because they stated that was the issue before and it wasn't so I had to pay for a battery when I could have used that money for something else as I am in a tight budget as it is. As of today, the vehicle was taken to the dealership, again, (I have been to two different dealerships as well) as of today, my pcv and map sensor replaced, again. I was told from an individual from corporate that he told the dealership he wanted them to keep the vehicle to try to replicate the issue. Apparently that was not done which I will certainly be addressing with him and request be done. Since the first time I brought it in, which was within the first few months of having it, there always seemed to be an issue with it being "low on oil",every single time. I think that should have raised a red flag the 3rd or 4th time I brought it in. They are playing a guessing game, not being loyal and fair. This is a huge safety concern and it needs to be taken off the market, completely. I think they are just doing anything to buy time because my lease is almost up,not fair. I already have legal counsel standing by. When someone gets killed, then they will worry about our safety. How many complaints will it take.

In the past two weeks my car has stalled out 3 times and it has been unable to start back up. I've had the battery replaced and mechanics cannot determine the issue. The stalling has occurred between 2-5 minutes of driving and always while in motion. This has happened to me in the middle of morning rush hour on city streets each time and I have been lucky enough to pull over to the side before losing all momentum and being stuck in the middle of the road. When it stalls out all the dashboard lights flash on and the engine died. Two of the times happened after making a 90 degree turn, and one time it happened after just going around a curve in the road. It also seems to occur as I am accelerating or decelerating. When trying to turn it back on, the lights and electronics will turn back on but the engine will not turn. I have noticed several complaints for the same issue and I have looked up my VIN on the NHTSA website but it is not under any recalls. I have already spent $265 + aaa towing fees on this issue. The three dates that this has occurred to me are: 3/17/17, 3/24/17, and now 3/27/17. I am keeping all my receipts and I will contact aaa to show the proof of their towing/service.

Clutch pedal does not return from depressed position. I was driving on the freeway and as I was going to get off an exit to work I went to downshift from 5th gear to 4th and my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was able to just barely get to 4th gear but when I went to stop on the exit at the red light the clutch was still stuck to the floor and would not release. The car wouldnt move after that. I got it parked in a gas station parking lot and checked all fluids ect. With no sign of anything wrong. Eventually I was able to get the clutch to release and parked my car at work. I then had my dad and brother come pick the car up since I commute to work and cannot afford to have this happen in rush hour traffic on my way home. The car ran fine for the majority of my drive. I am very frustrated as this could have been a catastrophic incident.

The transmission control clutch keeps dis engaging causing the vehicle to go into a neutral position and will not allow the car to move. . . This has happened 4 times with this vehicle.

Driving down the road, car shuts off. Pull to side of the road. Smoke coming from under the hood, so I open the hood and flames. Fire department had to put it out total loss. This has happened to several of these cars, one young girl almost didn't get out in time. I hate to think if you had kids in the back in car seats if you could get them out in time. These cars burn up quickly. The insurance and the dealership told us its a manufacturers problem. Chrysler has given us the run around for 3 weeks now. They sent out an inspector and he wouldn't give me any information. Now I keep getting an answer machine. I will send you our pictures. These are web-sites where people have reported this problem. We haven't put our incident on there yet. I wonder how many people haven't? read this guys story. . Read more...

The last 6 months my car in the morning has clutch problems. I start it and my clutch will stick to the floor until I either use my foot or hand to bring it up. Then I will have to pump the clutch multiple times until it starts working. It feels like a sponge until it get pumped multiple times then it finally feels like it is working normal. The last time it happened was this morning.

Brakes don't seem to be working properly. I have contacted the local dealer and they stated they don't have the repair for the recall although they know it's a problem?.

I¿m experiencing lost of engine torque when shifting on first gear due to clutch operation components parts not working properly. In one occasion I was making a right turn into the intersection, when I engaged first gear and try to shift to second gear the clutch wouldn¿t disengage or come back to at-rest position. It felt like air got into the hydraulic system making a loose clutch line connection during the release of the clutch, after I hit the pedal with my foot a few times I was able to make the clutch pedal to come back to at-rest position. This was a very scary experience since my kids were riding with me.

I bought and received a Dodge Dart sxt rallye in may 2014. This incident occurred just less than a year. I was driving down the highway at around 70 mph. All of a sudden, I was not able to gas the pedal in the middle of driving. Even shifting gears, I was not able to gas. After avoiding a couple of cars, I was able to park my car on the side of the road. The clutch, as I step on it, had no pressure. After getting it towed and it made its way to the dealership, I was told that I needed the clutch replaced and it was not under warranty.

Noise produced when steering, caused by a strut mount that isn't properly sealed against moisture. Seems to be a common problem. A user on the Dodge Dart forums found a fix, but the issue still remains that the strut cap is not properly sealed, and no amount of replacing it will fix that without fixing the issue. For details on the fix: the issue is that the cowl plastic grill drips right into the strut mount, there is a cap there but it is not a water tight sealing cap. This allows the strut mount center, where the nut is, to flood and corrode. This rusts the strut mount bearings together and prevents them from spinning freely thus causing the rubber to rubber contact and moaning sound. If the mounts are not too badly rusted you can dry up all the water, apply a liberal amount of wd40, pb blaster or whatever you prefer, let it soak and then just turn your wheel from lock to lock. Clean the little cap and apply a small bead of silicone around the cap, install it and let it dry. This will create a water tight seal and prevent the strut mount damage so there needs to be a new part that addresses this issue, and a recall on all of the old parts because otherwise the strut mounts will rust and eventually fail.

I purchased my vehicle in June 2014 with only 4 miles on it. The only minor problem I noticed after a few days' use is that sometimes it is very difficult to switch between gears - it's almost like you have to jerk it in order to move from one gear to the next. I didn't think this was a major issue so I didn't think anything of it though the problem persists from time to time. The major issue is the following: around mid-September 2014, I was driving to work in the morning, at approximately 35 mph. At one point, the vehicle accelerated itself. There were no vehicles in front of me so nothing happened. I immediately pressed on the brake pedal until I came to a full stop pulling over on the right. I turned off the vehicle and restarted it. I drove to work and the vehicle worked fine this time. It was a very scary situation because I was afraid it would happen again. I have never had any issues with vehicles and thinking that it was probably a one-time incident, I never contacted the retailer nor the manufacturer of the vehicle. The problem has since then occurred three or four times after that. The last time it occurred was early March 2015. I was on the same road I was when it first happened, driving approximately at the same speed, when the car abruptly accelerated. I always leave enough space between me and the car in front of me so thankfully I was able to brake and come to a full stop. My passenger saw what had transpired and advised me to immediately take my vehicle to the retailer so they can have it looked at. My vehicle has roughly 8,300 miles on it because I just drive to work and back, school and back and groceries, and all places are within 5 and 25 minutes from me. I always obey speed limits and evade highways because I never know if and when the problem will happen again, so I feel unsafe driving the vehicle.

The panel that protects the underside of the front portion of the car rubs and detaches with contact with standard road objects (slopes, parking stumps, speed bumps, etc. ). As a result the protective cover is destroyed and hangs beneath the car and causes a safety hazard to the driver and to other vehicles on the road. Possible safety hazards include but are not limited flying debris on road way, excess exposure of car parts to roadway and weather elements, front bumper falling off, hoses on underside of car breaking from impact with road and more. Specifically, this happened to my car when I was entering a parking lot that has a slope and the front underside became loose. I believe the underside became loose because of the fiber glass fabric that keeps it in place which ripped (shown in pictures). It continued to occur each time I enter any parking lot that has a slope to enter and continually got worse.