general problems of the 2006 Ford Escape

Sunroof on the vehicle just shattered. No impact related cause. Maybe heat.

My steering started locking up and now my vehicle will stall and shut completely down while doing 65 miles an hour and now it won't run at all.

Transmission went out. Was driving to work on surface street truck started to lose speed and wouldnt accelerate. Turned car off then restarted put it into drive and it wouldn't move.

A couple months ago, I bought a 2006 Ford Escape, but within a short time it started shutting down with no warning. I lost all power (steering and brakes) and had to pull the emergency brake to stop. Thank god I was near a parking lot and there was no cars coming. Now, every time I drive it, the problem gets worse. When going up hills and at higher speeds, it spits and sputters and sometimes it will just shut down while driving! it has gotten progressively worse and now when I stop at a stop sign and start to pull out at an intersection it just shuts off. The car will start right back up but it is so dangerous when it just shuts off going down the road. I have put it in the garage twice, but both times they couldn't find anything wrong and there are no codes being thrown. I also took it to a Ford dealer, but they could find nothing wrong. . But something needs to be done, its so dangerous and I'm afraid to drive the car.

The right wheel well of my 2006 Ford Escape (limited) is completely rusted out. I can no longer drive this vehicle because the shock is about to break through the interior of the vehicle. The rust has caused exhaust to pour into the vehicle. Before knowing about this, I took my vehicle to several different mechaincs because I could smell exhaust. They couldn't find anything. A canadian auto body person (I love on the border) told me that it was coming from the holes in the right wheel well and showed me the large hole where exhaust is leaking in. This is a serious safety issue that all Escape owners (2006 at least) need to be made aware of!!! I can't take and attach photos at this time due to the weather but can provide them another time, upon request. I should note that I live in northern michigan and that I have taken meticulous care of this vehicle.

Driving down the freeway and my vehicle shuts off without warning. There is a loud knocking and shuttering noise like my whole engine is going to drop onto the freeway. I get to the shoulder and put it in park. As I try to start the vehicle again the engine/motor starts shaking yet again with a loud knocking noise and wont turn over. I had to get my car towed. My children were extremely scared and being on the freeway this issue is very dangerous and has been complained about multiple times.

Throttle cable broke. The gas pedal fell to the car floor and the car stopped all acceleration. I was on a city street under the speed limit, so I was able to pull to the side of the road and wait for a tow truck. My mechanic fixed it 9/23, as this is a dealer only part and I had to order it.

The 2006 Ford Escape XLT car was well maintained and I am the only owner. The right wheel well shock tower is completely rusted out and is very dangerous to drive. The cost was estimated at over 1,000. Dollar to fix. There has been numerous others who have had the same experience and Ford will not do anything about the safety issue. Since I replaced the 2 rear shocks the right wheel well rusting clunking issue has gotten worse and is a very bad safety issue to drive. Please make Ford responsible for this common terrible safety issue.

My husband and I bought a new 2006 Ford Escape. We splurged on rust proofing. We just learned that our wheel well has completed rusted out making the car unsafe to drive. Ford refuses to help rectify this problem despite the fact that this is a serious safety issue and we could have a serious accident. I have found many other dissatisfied Ford Escape customers online who have had the same experience and have not received any help from Ford. This is not right. Yes, our car is getting on in years but it should not be disintegrating from rust especially when we bought a rusf proofing protection package. The manufacturer needs to stand by their product.

The alarm will go off randomly while in park and not running. Has gone off at different times of the day. Dealer replaced "Smart junction box" but did not fix problem. Returned to dealer after it happened again. Thought it might be a latch problem but unless it happened while the vehicle was at dealership, they would not be able to be sure which latch and replacing all latches would be very expensive.

I bought a used 2006 Ford Escape from pasadena auto planet in south houston TX. On 1/31/15. About a week later I thought I saw smoke coming from under my hood but I dismissed it because there was a car in front of me with smoke coming from the muffler. On another day the same thing. I wasn't behind any car and I saw smoke coming from under my hood so I pulled over. I could smell coolant. My car did not indicate overheating because it is cold outside. When I lifted my hood smoke galore came out from the radiator. It was dark so I couldn't see anything. The next morning I took it to a mechanic and we discovered the radiator was crushed from an apparent prior accident and the fans weren't working either. I called the car lot the next morning and spoke with a man named sammy. I told him the situation. He told me when he got to the car lot he would pull my file and call me back. 3 hours went by and nothing. So I went to the car lot and there he was. He did not look happy to see me. I went inside and told him again about the damaged radiator. We walked outside and he lifted the top off the coolant system and said to me, "well, you don't have any fluid in here. " like he was trying to dance all around it. I finally made him get on his knees and look at the damage and he said, "OH, that's just the condenser. " so I asked him what was he going to do about it. He said he would "try" to get approval to fix it at no cost to me. I decided I don't want them fixing it because at this point I do not trust them. I want my money back. After researching, I found out that fire can result from a car overheating so he sold me a safety hazard. My 1st car payment is due this Saturday, 2/28/15. I'm not paying it for I just want my money back.

The service engine light came on plus the wrench light. The vehicle told me to pull over safely. It would not go over 20 miles per hour. I had it towed to the Ford dealership and was told it was the throttle body. I did research online where other Escapes were having the same issue. The north carolina consumers council stated this online- "we have been informed that Ford has issued an extended warranty for defective throttle body assemblies and sensors for 10 years or 150,000 miles from the data of original purchase. For vehicles past this time limit, the warranty is reported to be valid until January 31, 2015. " since I am over the mileage I am having to pay for the part.

I own a 2006 Ford Escape XLT with 100,000 miles. 90% highway miles, well maintained with dealer or independent mechanic. Have all paper work. "my biggest worry is the stalling for no reason and an accident happening and this should be a recall issue". Jan. 2015 I had a intake and valve oil leak that was fixed 3 times, Jan, Feb and March. When I took it to the dealer in March, I mentioned that my vehicle had stalled in my driveway after a 30 minute highway drive from work. They put it on the computer and said there was no code for a stall. Dealer said Ford sent them notice describing my same issue but couldn't confirm it was the torque converter. April 10th 2015 I was out of extended warranty. The stalling happened again late April, took to dealer again. Dealer said no codes again. Took straight to uncle after leaving dealer for him to look at and couldn't get the vehicle to stall after a week of having it. I've read online forums of people replacing transmission multiple times for torque converter and other issues within the transmission. Also, after 3 deer ran out in front of me 2 years ago, repairs done to physical damage and passenger seatbelt replaced twice during repairs, passenger seatbelt and airbag lights come on and seatbelt alert beeps while driving even know the passenger has the seatbelt on. I have to park, shut down, buckle seatbelt and then start again and this worked except for one time I had to repeat this a second time. Dealer said there was no codes for airbags or seat belts. Ford has not been notified yet. Also, when I bought the vehicle brand new I had the underbody sprayed but the rear wheel wells are rusting from underneath to outer body and rusting under front doors too.

We purchased a 2006 Ford Escape for our daughter that is in college. The vehicle only had around 92,000 miles on it when we purchased. Upon braking, the vehicle will shudder and cut off. She is able to put it in park, restart the vehicle and continue on. There is no rhyme or reason behind when this occurs. She lives in an extremely busy area and this is very dangerous for her. My husband and I have driven the vehicle and have had the same thing happen. Our mechanic is telling us that he is almost positive it is the torque converter. (of course, we have left it with him for over a week and he has driven it everywhere and it will not mess up) after hearing this, I have done some research on it. Why is Ford not doing a recall on this? this seems so be a very common issue. Is it going to take someone getting injured or worse before they take any action?.

There seems to be a problem with being able to open my trunk door. A while ago, something like August 2014, I went to open the trunk to put groceries in and it wouldn`t open. Tried locking and unlocking again. Nothing worked. So I went a few week without being able to open the trunk. One day I decided to try it again and it worked. But now, January 2015, I tried opening my trunk the other day to take the groceries out of there and it wouldn`t open again. I still cant open it so I think im gonna have to take it to a mechanic. Also the handle on the rear right door seems to be loose.

First it stalled out while idiling, then stalled out at stop light , then upon acceleration it stalled again. While driving it hesitated again , when I accelerated it started to go again, at stop light it stalled out. It always seems to start. I called the dealer where I purschased it and no active recalls for my vechicle, called another Ford dealer and same answer. I mentioned consumer program 13n03 but told it was vechicle specific.

After starting the vehicle it has to be warmer up for about 30 minutes or more, in order for the gas pedal to press down so the vehicle will move. The gas pedal will not move at all. It has to be warmed up in the summer months and well as the winter months in order for the vehicle to move. The gas pedal is so hard to press that it like trying to press your foot through a brick wall. It does this even when at a stand still when trying to accelerator for any speed. It just will not move. This is dangerous for me and my family. Please help !!!.

The passenger side rear wheel well has rusted through exposing the shocks and struts. The vehicle is unsafe to drive. The corrosion of the rear wheel well is not a wearable part and cannot be controlled or caused by the end user. This is a manufacturing defect. The corrosion of the rear wheel well can cause the shocks and struts to dismount, which could lead to vehicle rollover resulting in injury or death.

I was driving on a residential street, doing 25 mph, when it felt like the transmission failed. I had it towed to aamco in renton washington where the transmission was replaced at a cost of $4270. 50. It was the original transmission. On 2-10-2014. The transmission failed again and had to be replaced at the cost of $468. 11. I have owned many cars over the years and most had well over 100k miles on them and I have never had a transmission fail, much less two transmissions fail. This seems very unusual to me.

Pulling into a parking lot with my 2 year old granddaughter and daughter when my car stalled. Thinking quick, I put the car into neutral so I could steer and restart. My car has been in the garage 4 times and a $1000. 00 of work put into it to try and fix the problem, to this day it still stalls!!!!!! no one knows whats wrong with it!!!!!.