268 problems related to electrical system have been reported for the 2013 Ford Escape. The most recently reported issues are listed below. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2013 Ford Escape based on all problems reported for the 2013 Escape.
Ford Escape 2013 recall #14s17-s1 problem with electrical signal connections that causes car to stall when coming to stop, Ford says not applicable with my car.
Back up camer, I’m frustrated with my camera. It goes in and out.
As I am driving the car with speed 35mph I heard a very loud pop on the passenger side I was terrified and then the window dropped all the way in. As of right now the window controller is not functioning at a 100 percent and I bought this car less than year ago from a Ford dealer ship. I will like to know how I can proceed with this situation and get it fix.
My radio went out about 3 years ago had to be replaced and now I can not listen to my radio without the car actually being on. My second issue is with my rear axle drive train, I currently have 127k miles on my vehicle took it in to a Ford dealership for diagnostic and repair I was informed that the rear axle needed replacing, they replaced it , however the problem persisted I was then told by the Ford mechanic that the axle assembly needed to be replaced. I spent 1k for the first repair now they want $2683 for the axle assembly, have there been other complaints regarding this parton 2013 Escape??.
My son was driving up a hill on January 26, 2022 and the car stalled. I called the Ford dealer and they said I had to take it in and pay for the repairs. This is a 2013 Ford Escape and I was reading on the internet that these cars have these problems. My son said there was no warning lights before this happened, it just stalled on a busy, dangerous highway. Thank god he was not hurt. I don't know what else to do. This problem should get taken care of with so many people having the same issue.
Car will not start when temperature outside is near or below freezing. Message "no key detected" displays on the console. Lights flash with clicking noises while the car tries to start. This happened in 2020. It seemed to be resolved. In the past couple months it has happened multiple times. Each time the dealership returned car "fixed" to no avail. This has left me stranded multiple times.
Case number: cas-34813627-b3b3d7 on January 2nd, 2022, without warning my abs and traction control lights went on, my speedometer fell to zero, and all of the digits usually shown (mpg, miles to empty, amount of time driven, and miles driven) were replaced by dashes. After about 10 - 15 seconds, the information came back, the speedometer worked, and the dash warning lights went off. This has occurred multiple times a day since Jan 2 while I drive my car. The Ford website described a recall that fit the description of the issues I have been having and, according to my VIN, I was eligible to get the system serviced. I took my car in to wade Ford in atlanta, GA on January 5, 2022. A diagnostic test reported code pc0031, but only codes p1934 and p062c are considered eligible. I called Ford and opened a case (see line 1). After waiting a few hours to hear back from Ford, I had to check in at work and perform a covid test to remain eligible to work the rest of this week per their covid protocol. On my way there, my throttle became unresponsive as I was getting on the highway. The acceleration came back a few seconds later, narrowly avoiding the car behind me running into my bumper. After testing, I returned to the dealership to find no progress had been made due to Ford being unresponsive. The agent has not responded or updated me, but she stated on an earlier call she was working on consulting her supervisor on my case. Further attempts to call Ford have been unsuccessful. Because this issue is not recognized under any Ford warranty, I have no lease or lease reimbursement options. The cost of having Ford fix the bug they downloaded into my car is into the hundreds of dollars. Even if Ford does decide to fix the issue, I have no assurance this issue won't happen again at the next software update. My vehicle is not safe to be driven at this point. Suddenly having no reliable vehicle is affecting my work and medical appointment schedules, costing me time and money.
The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while coming to a complete stop, the vehicle idled and hesitated to stop. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and diagnosed that there was no code or check engine warning light retrieved from the code reader. The mechanic replaced the spark plugs; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, and the dealer cleaned the throttle body. The dealer informed the contact that there was no recall associated with the VIN. The dealer did not diagnose nor repair the vehicle. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system) however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The failure mileage was 122,092.
Battery went dead for 2 days. Once charged up imediatley the back light of the truck were off. Even the turn signals dont work properly. Gabe it a few minutes to charge up then when I tried to turn it off it wouldnt shutt off. Took the ignition key out and it still stayed running. It turned off only after 5-10 min on its on. I thought it had to do something with the back lights so I disconeccted the backup light and pluged them back in and and tried to turn it off and on again and the same problem presisted. Engine still kept on running without the keys inside.
While I was driving through my neighbor hood, I was making a left turn at an intersection and found that my vehicles power steering had stopped working. I was able to park the car and restarted it. It seemed fine while I was backing out of the space but as I was pulling forward the power steering went out again. Throughout the week the power steering would be working and then the next moment it would cut out unexpectedly.
I was attempting to move the vehicle which had been parked on the street in front of my residence into the driveway so it would be out of the way of the scheduled street sweeping. I could typically just reverse right angle the vehicle into the driveway. However, upon reversing the vehicle moved but not according to the way I was steering it. After a few failed attempts, I stopped to assess why this was happening. I know the emergency brake had been released, there were no alerts visible on the dashboard. I got out of the vehicle, no flat tire, nothing appeared different from when I parked the vehicle 36 hours prior. No signs that it had been struck since then. No obstructions behind or under the vehicle. I got back in and tried again. I was able to get it up onto the sidewalk but in a very unintended position. Further attempts did get it partially into the driveway but I nearly hit the picket fence in the front yard in doing so. With it now half on the sidewalk and half in the driveway, I put the brake on satisfied it was now off the street and no longer subject to city parking violation penalty. I had to cancel my work meeting and called the auto club for a tow. During the tow service pick-up, it appeared that the front driver side wheel was not aligning with the steering mechanism but we could manually position the wheel so we could get enough movement and position the vehicle and move it by chain onto the tow truck platform. Prior to parking the vehicle in front of the house, I had driven it without any problems. There was no evidence that it had been damaged or impacted by another vehicle or vandal.
The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle hesitated while coming to a stop and then stalled. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was opened. The manufacturer informed the contact that there was no recall associated with the VIN. The contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system) however, the VIN was not included. The failure mileage was approximately 54,000.
Power steering seemed to failed driving, unable to turn. The mechanic said the steering wheel column needs to be replaced. There was no warning. This put me and my children at risk that could’ve been fatal.
This just so the information is sent in to someone I bought this car used from. Day one had problems warranty did not cover anything. First when you would start it it would flash power steering assist fault on the dash you shut car off and restart it goes away. Then the turbo boost sensors keep going I have replaces these three different times find out there is a service bulletin out for it but Ford won't fix it for free there is a short in the wire you have to pay out of pocket for. Next was driving down the road and lost all power it went into limp mode while we were driving. The transmission is all messed up in this vehicle it was leaking fluid and took it to a shop to see where and can't find it. There are other electrical issues with the car I have 157k on it.
The car's computer system would not communicate to the car's speakers. This contributed to the radio not working and more importantly, calls not coming through via bluetooth. Phones would connect to the car via bluetooth, but no sound would come through the speakers. This caused a small safety issue, because the driver would have to disconnect the call through the vehicle in order to hear the phone call. A Ford dealership needed to order a new apim and replace it for the speakers to work again. They were not aware of any recalls for 2013 Ford Escape apim yet, and there were no messages prior to the speakers not working, all sound just stopped coming through one day. I did read of a couple other instances of the apim failing in Ford Escapes.
The passenger door latch-door came open and will not stay closed. My daughter was in the passenger seat when it happened which could have been really bad if we were on the highway instead of parking lot of a school going a slow speed yes/confirmed-safety recall # 16s30 no-stating they can only fix the one door in 1-2 days, when on the phone it is less than half a day procedure and up to 3 weeks for the other 3 doors. Which I need a safe vehicle to be able to work and drive until completed. They stated they don't have a rental. The car was just in there a shop a week prior for 3 1/2 weeks and I should have been notified of the recall and been fixed then and we would not be in this situation no- no warning or messages. It not says door not closed because I had to call for help and using a rubber strap to close it somewhat to get home.
The controls in the driver side door stopped working. No window or door locks could be activated. The car was taken in to the Ford dealership and it was repaired so the controls worked. A few months later, while driving on the interstate at 70 mph the engine turned off with no warning. All the warning lights in the electrical panel lit up after the engined turned off. After getting off the road and sitting for a few minutes the car started with no problem. After driving 20 minutes, we stopped and tried to use the controls in the driver side door to put the window down. No controls in the driver door functioned. I took the car in for repair but there were no loaner cars and was told they would have to keep the car at least two weeks. I needed transportation so I waited to take the car in. The engine turned off two additional times while I was driving with no warning. I took the car in to the Ford dealership again. They said the door control problem was a fuse and they would have to try to find what was shorting out the fuse. They did not have any comment about the engine stalling out which I reported. They have had the car 4 weeks. I see that some 2013 Escape models have been recalled for the engine stalling. I think my car should be added to the recall. I really need my transportation. I am borrowing my mother's car. There is no other car at my house.
I just bought this vehicle less than 3 months ago, and now it’s stuttering when I start it. It also stalls while driving.
Vehicle had transmission replaced at 80,000 miles due to the gears slipping and the car going forward in reverse and accelerating without pressing the gas. Vehicle now has 109,000 miles and has presented with other issues. The first incident occurred after fueling the vehicle. Owner got back into the car, all of the lights the turn on when a door is open illuminated and they proceeded to press the brake and attempt to turn on the car. The brake seized up and the car was not turning on. Owner had battery replaced three weeks ago at a shop and the computer was reset. Owner called roadside thinking it may need a jump. Roadside arrived and advised the vehicle was not in need of a jump as the battery components were testing fine and the lights illuminated and the key fob was working. Attempted to start vehicle numerous times, including with remote start and owner reports it felt as if the start stop button wasn't working. Eventually, the car turned on and ran for about 10 second when the engine cut out and the battery remained running (ac, radio, lights, etc. ) owner and roadside tried to turn the vehicle off and the button was not working. Waited 10 minutes, opened driver door and then the stop button worked. Advised a tow, tow truck came an hour later and car started as normal. Owner took it to dealer to report the problem and they replaced the vapor valve. Next day owner drove about 35 miles to destination and when they came back out to the car the issue repeated. Car would not start but all lights would come on dash. Car was able to be remote started but then engine cut out. After an hour car started as normal but was towed back to dealer for fear of stalling while on the highway. Vehicle has been at the dealer for 3 days and they have had the issue repeat for themselves. The dealer has stated they have checked everything and have no idea what is going on and are unsure of how to figure out the problem and how to fix it.
The car will stall out and say it’s overheating when it isn’t. This is very dangerous because it can cause a major accident. I have taken it to Ford dealership and another mechanic and each time they say there is nothing wrong with it but it’s been doing this since 2017 when I bought it.
For the past 2 years car is having identical issues with Ford recall 14s17 in a 2013 Ford Escape. Getting error code p0106 and have had maf sensor replaced twice. Ford customer service indicated that this Escape was not covered under 14s17 since it was manufactured in 2013 after the effected dates in the recall.
While driving, indicators said low coolant. Checked the level and it was fine. Error keeps showing until suddenly my vehicle stopped while in motion and lost all motor power. Dash illuminated with �engine overheating� and would not accelerate. Pulled over immediately, removed the key from ignition and checked under the hood. Coolant level was fine. Took to auto body shop, they said codes were showing for low coolant/overheating but they did a pressure test and found coolant leaking inside cylinder, which coincides with the huge engine recall and class action lawsuit. Ford will not assist me with this although they acknowledge it is a problem but �my VIN isn't on the list�. Engine repeating to stall while driving and lose power going from 30mph down to 5 suddenly and without warning in middle of intersection. This is my only vehicle, I'm disabled and Ford CO won't help nor will any dealer.
Before having a engine replacement due to circumstances I had issues with the turbocharger overboosting after the engine replacement I still have the turbocharger overboosting. On top of the anti-lock brake system brake pedal miss message lost communication with tcm and lost communication with the ecm.
Tl the contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving various speeds, the vehicle loss motive power and stalled with the check engine, battery and check oil warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to three independent mechanics and to capital Ford service center (2805 e millbrook rd, raleigh, nc 2760) however, the cause of the failure was not yet determined. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The contact was informed that the VIN was not included in NHTSA campaign number: 15v813000 (electrical system). The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 149,000.
My vehicle stalls and chugs. This happens while I'm driving and stationary. Ford did have a recall for a map sensor manifold issue back in October of 2014 for Ford Escapes with this description . The code is p0106 . I am struggling to get help for any dealer because there is no longer an open recall for this issue. I could be driving and my car shuts off. This is a nightmare.
I have a 2013 Ford Escape se, 1. 6 l and recently it will act like it is not in gear when driving, the engine will not reve up, nothing happens when pressing gas pedal. On occasion she said the battery light and oil light would come on when it does this. She turns off ignition, restart and is fine till next time. Becoming more frequent. Happens at all speeds.
I have only had this vehicle 2 days and it stalls on me. Slowing down coming to red light car stalls. Happened 3 times in 2 days. No lights on the dashboard or anything. I am deathly afraid to drive it now totally unsafe!.
There is a slow antifreeze leak. Every two days, antifreeze has to be added but the leak is not visible. Also, upon starting the car, shifting into drive and attempting to accelerate; the car will get bogged down right before 20 miles per hour and then stop unexpectedly. It does not completely use power but it does stall. There has been no explanation found for this and it is a daily occurrence.
The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving 20 mph, the vehicle stalled but was restarted. The engine failure service now warning light was illuminated. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The contact stated the failure was similar to NHTSA campaign number: 15v8130000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 46,460.
It seems my Ford is experiencing symptoms similar to safety recall 14s17, but Ford has not told me my car is affected my this recall. It's been 2 weeks and my car is still not fixed my the local mechanic.
Car is stalling none stop.
Every winter while driving my 2013 Ford Escape info screen displays "hill start assist not available and abs icon flashes. The radio also goes off and on. I have taken it to two different dealerships to get this corrected and I am told they could not see any codes for this problem. In other words I am lying. I am sure by checking with others, I am not the only one with this problem. I hope that this can be resolved because I don't know if and when this will effect anything else.
Warning came on stating engine was overheating and to pull over safely. After sitting for 3 days, tried to start the car again, with the same warning. The vehicle should not have been overheated at this time. Could not drive vehicle with this warning. Had to have it towed home.
For the last 2 years our Escape will stall out while driving when the weather is cold but after the car has been in motion for more than 20 minutes, this has been terrifying with my child in the car we have almost been in several accidents due to the car just stalling out while driving in traffic, we have taken it to the dealer and other mechanics and nobody can figure it out we have repaired the turbo and catalytic converter among other various repairs that have cost us thousands of dollars and nothing has fixed this issue. This is a safety issue! I've almost been hit by a semi on the freeway because my car stalled out while driving it! it happened again today.
Engine fault - service now light has come on at least once/year. When this happens the car hesitates and rides rough. I contact the Ford dealership immediately to have them fix the problem. The Ford dealership has worked on the car but the problem still exists. The warranty has expired. This has been an ongoing problem. Should I be responsible for repairs?.