general problems of the 2017 Ford Focus

Recall maintenance with regard to NHTSA id number: 19v515000 for a purge valve was completed 1/9/2025. Starting in October 12, 2025, driving on the freeway, a large "bang" was felt/heard. I pulled over, the dust cover under the car had ripped partially off and took a portion of my grill trim with it. The car still ran perfectly fine, so I continued the mile and a half to my house. I did not see anything that I may have hit on the highway and did not see anything eject behind my car when this incident happened. I noticed the oil light begin to flicker as I was ½ mile from home for maybe a second, then it was off and then flickered again, it did not stay lit. I filed a claim with my insurance-progressive-they wanted to total my car without inspecting it. I negotiated and they had me take it to the Ford dealer who inspected it visually to see if the cause was internal combustion as my insurance claimed, or external damage. See photos. They recommended a full engine replacement after only a visual inspection and charged me $276. 70. I had the oil-pan replaced as shown on my bank statement $1053. 77, with interstate automotive who verified no engine damage was found. Next the lcd instrument panel showed distorted, or not at all, or perfectly fine at times, which made it hard to read, and no instrument warnings are given for any issue, just the check engine light. As of today, 3/10/26, car will no longer reverse or progress into 2nd gear, is sluggish and feels as though it has no power at all. This happened randomly on 3/9/26 after the car would not start and it was believed to be a battery issue. The battery was replaced 3/9/26 $148. 08. When the diagnostic codes for the check engine light were tested, they showed a faulty co2 module issue. New parts will be installed on 3/11/26. All of the above described issues seem as though they could be related to a major safety issue with this vehicle, but Ford insists any courtesy fixes are not available to my VIN.

Ford Focus 2017 hatchback causing traffic jams and backup do to low speed, overheating, stalling, jerky shifting, failure to move or hesitation in the middle of driving, causing the car to stop or slow down in the middle of traffic and blocking exits and cars from moving around the vehicle. Transmission overheating and car says to pull over when driving after a few minutes. Powertrain is affected car not driving at correct speed. Transmission clutch a disengaged and having a hard time engaging. Constant clutch issues. Causing issues to driver safety and others on the road. Ford knows about these models but are failing to fix at affordable price or provide warranty. Not upholding customer satisfactory.

I bought my car in early 2022 or 2023 and almost immediately the car started shuddering when accelerating. I took the vehicle in to the place I bought it from and one other Ford dealer. Neither places could "duplicate the problem. " bith times I had to pay money just to have it looked at, and nothing was ever fixed. My horn keeps quitting and the shuddering has gotten so bad and now there are new issues like loss of power when accelerating. This car is starting to become a safety issue for me as I live in washington state and the traffic here is very fast. I have almost been hit due to trying to pull out or merge and the car loses power or winds way out. I am a [xxx] who can't afford automotive bills. They will only give me $2700. 00 as a trade in and I owe $12,000. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

I purchased a 2017 Ford Focus from a car dealership called lion cars on 4201 west colonial drive in orlando florida the car has a major major electrical issue I was at an intersection and the car went completely dead and turned off and it locked me inside the car I couldn't get out of the car the windows would not roll down the doors were not unlocked and the car started smoking finally I got out then 3 days later I turned around and try to get in the car and the car also locked me in out of the car where I couldn't use my key fob nothing on the car works I did a report on it I found out that the car had been in two major crashes and both reports stated severe damage and when you drive down the road it pulls to the left I brought this attentia attention of lying car dealership they said that they would fix the car or they will replace the car and they never did so now I am without a car I am without my money back and I am without replacement car so.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus. The contact stated while at a complete stop at an intersection, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that there were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated that he was unable to exit the vehicle because the vehicle lost electrical power, and the doors failed to unlock. The contact stated that he smelled smoke in the passenger cabin. The vehicle was towed to a dealer. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.

2017 Ford transmission, 2017 Ford dashboard.

Unknown.

Wiring assembly, and tcm are a safety risk because of improper gear shifting and shuttering. The issue is reproduced with a battery swap on the vehicle it’ll cause improper grounding. No inspection, no warning signs until after improper shifting triggered limp mode no reverse and check engine along with transmission service message.

While driving around 12:30 pm on Thursday, 4/18/2024, the Focus electric displayed a "stop safely now" message and proceeded to cut power going to the electric motor, allowing the car only to coast as if it was in neutral. Luckily no vehicles were around in my lanes, as that easily could've caused an accident. Electric steering, regen braking, and air conditioning were all disabled. I was able to coast it into a nearby firehouse subs parking lot, and directly into a parking spot. Had to disconnect the 12 volt battery for 5 minutes and reconnect to hopefully reset the computers in the car. Still displayed ssn message after reconnection. I let the car sit for another 30 minutes and was able to start it up like nothing happened. Drove it home and read the stored dtcs, which were the following: ===becm dtc p0aa2:00-08=== code: p0aa2 - hybrid/ev battery positive contactor 'a' stuck open ===tcm dtc p0af8:16-08=== code: p0af8 - hybrid/ev battery system voltage ===gfm dtc u0111:00-08=== code: u0111 - lost communication with battery energy control module a it will be going to thomasville Ford on Wednesday April 24, 2024. That is the earliest they can accept it.

Transmission problems. I’ve almost wrecked a few times from my car stalling in intersections. First it had a delay in shifting where it would stall out before jolting into gear. Now it will not switch gears at all and is not driveable. I’ve been told that it is probably the tcm malfunctioning, but Ford did not extend the warranty on my test vehicle. They stopped it at 2016 models, claiming that 2017 onward the issue was fixed. Wrong. Countless searches online will tell you countless drivers have issues with their tcm going out. I was almost in a few different wrecks due to this problem(almost being hit in an intersection bc I couldn’t move) and now my car isn’t driveable and I cannot afford to replace the tcm right now. I feel scammed by Ford making such a crappy transmission system that is dangerous and unreliable. Problem confirmed by local transmission shop. I received no warnings on dash leading up to these issues.

Driving 75mph down the frontage road. The car just stopped. No warning no lights just a violent stop. If there were cars behind us or we were on the highway we could be dead right now!! it stopped no lights took us 2 hrs to get the car home with a no service area. It was clicking in the engine. After it was parked for hrs. This is the second time in 7 months this car has had a serious manufacturer problem! it is unsafe and I will never drive it again!!! bad for having only 63,000 miles on it!! I got it with 52,000 miles and it broke down instantly with a transmission problem. Was in the shop for 4 months and now this. Dangerous.

Driving on 2 lane, car suddenly went dead at 60 mph . Able to get off road. Cranked back up. Checked for code and fuel tank had vacuum lock. Checked with Ford. There is a recall on that but not my VIN number. Took to Ford garage x4 paid eval. Fee of $159 twice to diagnose. No success. They replace fuel door and clutch total bills approx $500. Last failed attempt to fix the problem revealed more trouble. . . Back end was swerving and jerking. . Felt out of control. Somehow when the clutch ws changed out the rear shocks and front struts were busted. And no I didn't take it back after that. Why does mt car show recall code is problem yet VIN not covered and garage tries to fix everything but the recall prob and makes everything worse. I do not have the money to throw into these "fixes" I an disabled on tight budget. This is a problem that began on the assembly line at time vehicle was manufactured. I bought I n good faith and ended up with a lemon.

The vehicle has an intermittent problem that causes it to lose power, become unresponsive, and leave the occupants vulnerable to a collision if it becomes necessary to accelerate from cross traffic or to be rear ended due to rapid deceleration. At random intervals usually daily the check engine light will begin to flash and pressing the throttle the driver will find that the vehicle will not accelerate. This condition last typically 30 seconds, during that time the vehicle is essentially coasting along under simple inertia. Then as suddenly as it began the light turns off and the car returns to normal. My vehicle experienced catastrophic failure during one such episode resulting in a thrown rod in cylinder number 3, the vehicle had the engine replaced under warranty at a cost of $12,000. After the car was returned I found that it continued to experience the same problem, returned to the place that installed the engine and they weren't able to repair the problem. Was directed to take to temecula Ford, they required I allow their technician to drive the vehicle home nightly over 40 miles each direction and after 2 weeks weren't able to supposedly recreate the problem. I picked the car up with nothing to show but extra miles. Immediately the problem once again began, I scanned the ecu and took screen shots and data recordings to provide the dealer. Directed to return the car, they had it another week and despite having the provided information stated they couldn't duplicate the issue. Decided to take it to another local dealership, they had it a week and stated the problem was caused by using ngk spark plugs instead of motorcraft plugs. I informed them they were installed with the new engine and they required I purchase their spark plugs. I paid $400 for plugs and picked the vehicle up, the problem persisted. I was however given a refund. Still can't use the car, Ford corporation refused to do anything for me.

Unknown at this moment but I known I have to buy a fuel pump and also now it's something eles is wrong with it and we just got this car 5 months ago and now we don't have no warranty because it passes the warranty date and also we didn't want this car but they did had the car we was approved for.

Interior lighting. Multiple shorted wires kept blowing fuses for interior lights. Wiring harness for all interior lights had to be replaced with multiple areas of chafing and wires melted together.

Electric propulsion system shut down while driving on westbound interstate 495 in queens county. Stop safely now (ssn) red warning light on the instrument cluster appeared and I was forced to coast down a hill in neutral. Unable to restart car and became stuck in side of parkway exit ramp. Car then had no power with 12v battery going dead just trying to keep radio on. Third time ssn light has come on while driving. First time while actually stuck in traffic that the car shut itself off.

Two things happens after I would push on the break the car would accelerate until I pushed on the break again and it shutters and act as if it will stall out when I first start to drive when I first accelerate from any stopped situation.

My Ford Focus hatchback is a automatic and can shift into super auto/manual are available. My vehicle staggers, shutters, and shakes once in drive mode. My vehicle also rolls backwards when on a incline if I do not press the break pedal, and if I do not accelerate at all or touch the breaks it will lose momentum and begin to roll backwards if the front of the vehical is inclined. This issue is not solely the manual models my 2017 Ford Focus fwd automatic shutters while accelerating from a complete stop. I checked transmission fluid all levels were good there. My electronic �anticipation� score in my cars eco faqs dashboard is 5/5. 5/5 is the best your score can be. This is a serious issue for not just 2014-2016 but 2017 automatics and manuals both! if you can't accelerate your vehicle without transmission staggering, shuttering, shaking and related issues with driving new to preowned 60k-100k and under vehicles this is very concerning. My vehicle is under 52k miles I got it around 49k. It was brand new one owner before me and the car facs report was detailed on its service history and very well maintained. If my vehic is automatic with eco and technology as well as up to date sync updates thent electronically my vehicle is computing incorrectly and this flex fuel is causing some computer issue with my transmission. If my up to date vehicle technology is causing issues then I can't trust my vehicle to know how to keep me safe. If I need to accelerate but have to press the breaks or let off the gas until the shuttering/staggering/shaking completely goes away then how am I supposed to accelerate to avoid something, to merge and get up to oncoming traffic speed? my anticipation is 5 out of 5 for my acceleration ratings to be the best possible. My vehicle is unsafe for avoiding safety hazards and driving from a complete stop into 1st, and 2nd gear. The steering is great.

User had a quarter of a tank of gas before heading home. Shortly after, user started the car and it stalled. User did not think much of it. User shut it down and turned key to the "on" position and the check engine light turned on. The car turned over and worked. Shortly after, user was driving car down the road towards his house and the engine stalled. Systems and electronics screen were on, but everything else glitched and nothing really worked, the car torque steered the user into oncoming traffic lane. User had to use e-brake to properly slow down and pull to the shoulder of the road and turn key all the way off into the "off" position. User waited 5 minutes to ensure all systems were shut down, and started car back up again to safely drive the rest of the way home. User has extended warranty and will immediately have dealership look at vehicle.

While driving to work as I pulled out of my neighborhood my rpms began began do rapidly bounce between 0-6 and the gas pedal didn't respond to anything like the engine was not receiving enough fuel. I stopped the car, in the middle of the road, put in park and the engine returned to a normal idle. I began to continue driving to turn around come back home worried about this issue. About a half mile later the engine completely stalled on me in the middle of the road. The car would crank with no start. This is a huge safety concern. I had to have my car towed to the local Ford dealership at beach Ford in virginia beach, va. After their testing I was told that the fuel pump driver module (fpdm) needs replaced and that the part is backordered with an estimated delivery date 2 weeks out. The car only has 23,500 miles on it. There's no recall at this time for Ford Focus stalling issue while driving which is a huge safety concern for a vehicle to stall while traveling down a road/highway. That fact disgusts me because it is a known and reoccurring problem and nothing has came of it. I also find it interesting that people with the same issues here were recommended to replace different parts. I'm curious to see if this fpdm will solve the problem of stalling in the middle of the road.

Car has 71000 miles and June 3rd 2020, the steering wheel locked up and was hard to turn (like power steering with no fluid), turned the car off for 30 seconds and back on and it worked fine. Stopped for food and turned car back on and a warning came up "steering assist fault". Took it to a repair shop and there's no loose wires or bad fuse. Will require to have the steering motor replaced.

No occurrence just worried.

My car was at a standstill and my car stuttered like the transmission was going to fall out, I talk with kevin at liberty Ford in aurora ohio and he said didn't the salesman tell you about the transmission problems and I said no. My radio has stopped working twice, I didn't have this problem until liberty Ford did my oil change back in may 2019, also my car is missing while driving. Not happy with being sold a lemon.

A month ago I started getting high temperature warning on my car, my coolant was completely empty, so I refilled it, but now my coolant is completely empty again which could have resuled in a fire, I have no been in any recent accidents, I'm a very defensive driver and I didn't run anything over. And my back break light keeps going out and ive replaced it several times.

Car has about 13,000 miles. Suddenly lost power while stopped at a traffic light. �stop safely now� warning showed on dashboard. Tried for 10-15 minutes to restart, finally restarted and completed commute to work. Drove the car to the dealer same day. After one week, dealer has no diagnosis and has made no repair. I cannot drive an unsafe car on my daily commute, which includes highway driving. Ford is obviously on notice that this is a serious safety problem and they haven't fixed it.

Tl-the contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus, the contact pulled into her office parking lot the contact turned the car off after shifting the gear into park , the car did not go into park and rolled forward into a stone wall. The vehicle was able to be driven away from the scene. The vehicle was not taken to a dealership or independant mechanic for a diagnosis as the contact was at work. No police report was filed the vehicle had minor damage. No medical attention was needed. The failure mileage was 16,000. Cb.

Unsafe condition: while driving and accelerating upon shifting the engine will continue to accelerate right to the redline there is no control of the throttle at this point also traveling down the highway I can step in on the cluth and release the throttle and the engine will accelerate or maintain its rpm speed you can shirt to neutrl and coast to the curb and it will maintin the engine speed wherever it decides on again there is no control of the throttle I have been to the Ford dealer twice now 1st time they could not duplicate second time again they could not duplicate they handed me a sheet stating it was normal for the engine rpm to maintain for a few seconds during shift to ease the shifting and matching of transmission speed this is an unsafe condition, when you release the throtte it should close immediatly and rpm should return to base idle. I have been an ase certified master auto and truck technician for 33 years. I have sit down with the service manager and the general sales manager and I dont think Ford motor company or the dealer is taking this matter seriously someone is going to get hurt here please help.

Brand new Focus electric, less than 3 days old from dealer on 8/17/2017. For the last two days, I have driven less than 100 miles. Car was charged overnight and shows full charge this morning. I drove the car less than 30 miles today. In the evening, when I was driving, the car suddenly lost power and the engine stopped suddenly on the road. The car was in steady speed on a city street in a straight line. I was not accelerating. I was not braking. Almost got hit by a car behind me. I was unable to restart the car. Battery still show 80 miles charge. Indicator warning shows: "stop safely warning lamp" and "electric motor warning lamp". All interior lights are bright when the car door is opened, it does not appear that the battery charge is low. Also there is no warning of "low battery" before the car suddenly lost power. I also noticed when I turn off the "power/start button", the "information and entertainment display/gps" stayed on. Even after I have clicked the "lock" button on the remote control key. After pressing the "power/start/stop" quite a number of time and switching between the two keys, then the "display center" finally turn off. We had to call roadside assistance to have car towed.

This will be my second complaint, as I have a complaint # cas-12526659-q7s5m2 with Ford but I am being told that this is how the car is. Accident waiting to happen. Can not see speedometer during daylight hours or dusk or dawn.

Constant shudder noise and has been replaced 3 times and I was told �I had the best latest and greatest clutch in my car. � I own my car now and I don't want it. Every time you excel from a stop the noise is present.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus. The contact stated that since purchasing the vehicle, the check engine light had remained on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the vehicle was diagnosed with a defective engine hose. The contact was unable to repair the vehicle. Since the initial failure, the contact stated the engine auto stop/start feature had failed to operate as needed and the engine failed to start as designed while at a stop light. In addition, the contact stated that the vehicle was jerking upon depression of the accelerator pedal. There was an abnormal knocking sound coming from the engine. The vehicle had been towed to several dealers where multiple repairs were performed; however, the failure returned after each repair. The vehicle was eventually diagnosed with engine failure and the contact was given an estimate for the repair. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 200.

The tachometer and speedometer have a auto dim at night time . Can not read speedometer at dusk or dawn when driving under overhead led street lights that leave glare on windshield. Auto dimmer has no adjustment to brighten past certain brightness. Lights in other Ford vehicles work differently then Focus as bought 2017 escape and does not have this problem.