general problems of the 2011 Ford Mustang

Ford knew that the transmission was going bad on these Mustangs. When I attempt to accelerate my car does not move. Imagine this happening in traffic and me being killed.

I decided to drop the convertible top of my 2011 Ford Mustang when the weather decided to change I was pressing the button to let the top up. Nothing is happening all fuel's are in excellent condition battery is good the pump under the back seat is at it's rite level. I had to park for hours under shead until the rain stops an was able to drive it to a friend house who was gladly to let me park the car in his garage. I was park at a gas station.

Wrench indicator light came on yesterday as well as my service engine soon light and I have no power in reverse or drive. It starts to work and will go off for a bit but does the same again. Apparently there was a customer satis. Program 16b23 letter that went out to fix this that I never received. Ford now will not honor it to be fixed d/t the letter expired 9/30/17. The letter I never received.

While driving on I-95 in ft. Lauderdale, flduring rush hour I rear ended the car in front, speed approximately 30mph or less before applying brakes. Car nose dived and hit rear of other car going under the rear bumper. My car suffered minor damage of both fenders, headlights, radiator. Front bumper was untouched, air bag did not deploy. I turned ignition off, put car in park, stepped out of car and after approximately 2 - 5 minutes fire was visible below bumper that rapidly turned into a full fledged fire engulfing the entire car. The collision caused no damage to the car past the front of the engine, flywheels untouched. Fire truck arrived to put out fire. No explosion occurred. The collision should not have caused a fire.

When car started and I put it in gear it started going but steering wheel would not turn( it was not in locked mode. )it flashed check trac system -chech engine cut car off then back on it was ok. Later I tried to crank it , it wouldnt start read where if you got out locked with key waited till lights went off unlocked it with key it would crank did this and it cranked took it to Ford place put it on computer said was a problem didnt know what would have to check every wire in car could cost up in the $3000 or more. Still doing the dance to crank car. Works most of the time sometimes have to do it twice. The steering has done the not working thing like 3 more times just hope the steering wheel does not lock up while I"m driving I have done everything they suggested on line but it hasnt fixed the problem there are a lot of cars that are doing the not starting seems to be the security system causing the problem like tho the Ford place knows nothing about the problem. Suggested I get rid of the car which I cant afford to do.

Rear window exploded when turned on rear defrost. Shortly after turning on rear defrost, heard loud pop and middle of rear window began to shatter in spider web design which spread and entire window exploded. Driving on highway at about 65 mph.

I can be driving my car and it will just lose power. . . I can be sitting at a red light. . . I can be on the highway and it'll just stop pulling. . . The check engine light pop on and a wrench light pops on the dash. . . . I have to pull over out of traffic which is extremely dangerous onto the side of the road. . . I would turn the car off and wait a minute. . Start it back up. . . The wrench signal is gone but the check engine light is still on. . . This has been going on with this car for a while now. . . And I took it to auto zone. . . They did diagnostics on it and said it was the eit or throttle body.

Driving down an interstate a wrench came on the dashboard and car went into limp mode. Pulled off turned the car off and restarted it. Got to the destination ok but on the way back home the wrench came on again. Looked at the code and saw it was the p2111 code. It happened 4 times in the way, losing power and shaking. Taking it to Ford tomorrow to find out if it covered under the warranty. There was no recall in the car,however, I am noticing a lot of people are having this issue. This is a safety issue and should have a recall on it. From what everyone else is saying Ford is not doing anything to help or fix the problem.

Vehicle speedometer seems to be 8-15 mph too fast . Definitely off .

Driving up hill going about 20. Orange wrench icon comes on and I lose all acceleration. Had to pull over going up a hill losing acceleration fast when cars are parked on the side of the road. Barely made it to a turn and parked my car. Had to turn the car off and wait a minute and turn it back on. Turned around and went home. Called Ford dealership and asked what could be the issue. The mechanic said it could be one of two things. Took the car in to get a dtc code and they couldn't find it. The mechanic said it was safe to drive. 4 days later the same thing happened going 60. Had to pull over and restart the ignition. Almost got rear ended. Took it to the dealer again. No code. They tell me it is safe to drive still. Three days later it happens again on the same road going 60. Certain part of this road have no place to pull over. Have to drift my car for a bit to get to a safe area. Almost get rear ended. Call dealership. They tell me the earliest they can see me is one week away. This morning on the way to work it craps out on me 5 times in 20 minutes. Luckily it was 5 am and there were few people on the road. I do the same thing and restart the car. I used my tuner this time and got a code of p2111 - throttle body actuator code. I know this has been an issue with other Fords as well and checking the message boards for the Mustangs and I have seen quite a few of these incidents, but I did not see where the NHTSA was looking at the Mustangs. Maybe this should be looked into before a lawsuit happens because of this? this car is not safe to drive no matter what they tell me. I will call the dealership this morning and give them the code so they can finally fix my car.

I've never had similar issue before this. I was accelerating slowly at a speed of approximately 20-30 mph when the car lurched, the "traction control" light and wrench light came on, and I was unable to accelerate the car at all. I was forced to pull to the side of the road. After about 30 seconds I attempted to restart the car and the engine turned a few extra times but did start. I was able to drive home (within 0. 5 mile) at very slow speeds. Over the next day I tested the car on back roads: it frequently required the engine to turn extra in order to start, and it seemed that whenever I tried to accelerate too rapidly the problem returned and I was forced to coast/brake to a stop and restart the engine. If I accelerated very slowly I was able to drive the car but at no point could I pass 20-30 mph. I had the car towed to my Ford dealership where they diagnosed an electronic throttle body failure based on eec test and code p2112. They noted a stuck etb actuator and etb actuator binding causing system to go into failsafe mode. The etb assembly and full throttle body was replaced and the car drives well now. This is a big safety issue because if I had been on a major freeway or a hill (as are frequent in my area) I could have been involved in a serious injury. The dealership was not aware of or did not offer any extended warranties for defective throttle bodies or sensors and if this exists I am interested to pursue reimbursement of the cost of my repairs and labor.

Driving normal speed, no cars present 60 degree day, rear convertible window made a loud pop and then shattered. The rear defrost was on at the time.

This car has 26,600 miles on it and the pirelli p zero nero all season radial tires are separating between the treads. This has happened on all four tires. I fear for my safety that these tires will blow out. I asked the salesman that sold me the car and he was clueless and did not offer any help. Please help. The tires say they were made in brazil and show this - p 235/50 zr1897w.

Driving over speed bumps in my apartment complex and the wrench lights comes on and the car would not move when I press the gas pedal however, the car was still running idle but not throttle what so ever. It is a reoccurring problem and I fear for me and my child's safety so frightened this will happen in the middle of the interstate somewhere and cause an accident or harm to myself or someone else. This needs to be fixed by Ford at no cost to consumers, was told that it would cost me 850. 00 to get it fixed because my car is no longer under warranty. Clearly this is a manufacture defect and should be corrected before someone gets hurt or killed.

The car began sputtering and then the engine died after pulling off of the interstate. The wrench light flashed and then the check engine light came on and stayed on. The car was analyzed at the Ford dealership and diagnosed with the throttle body assembly actuator as the problem. There currently is no recall. The labor and part were $430. 16 I should be reimbursed by Ford for this since it is a safety issue. I was fortunate there were no cars behind me. The technician indicated there was a life safety issue.

Body corrosion on the hood / door causing paint to chip.