general problems of the 2015 Ford Mustang

While driving home, driving speed was 55 mph, car engine bogged down and orange wrench icon illuminated on dash. I was not far from home and was able to continue and "limp" home. Car would not go faster than 10-15 mph. When I parked car in garage and shut car off, the brake lights stayed on. There was no warning lights or anything wrong with car before incident. Car has not been inspected by dealer or service center. Doing further research online, I was directed to look at drivers floorboard for plastic pieces. I did find broken, yellowish colored plastic pieces on floor board. According to others, which have been experiencing the same issue, the brake light switch stop bumper pad has failed. I was able to find a recall (safety recall 22s02) that has been issued for this problem, but the recall is region specific. I do not live in the regions listed in recall.

Hi, I was driving on the freeway and suddenly my car stopped accelerating. I would push the acceleration pedal but it wouldnt speed up. And for a few times it would speed up very much. This was very rapid fluctuation. I also noticed that the cruise control was not working. This was very scary being on the highway with this kind of speed fluctuation. After I came back home, I noticed that the brake light wouldnt turn off at all. After doing some research I found that the brake light switch broke and the car was sensing that the brake was being applied and hence was doing acceleration fluctuations. I also found out that there are many other same vehicles which has the same issue.

I ran into the existing issue described in "part 573 safety recall report" NHTSA recall number 22v-011, but in a state not listed under the recall (vehicle purchased used in pennsylvania in 2017). As a result of this part failing, my brake lights remained engaged permanently, and the car's engine power would increase and decrease rapidly (presumably because it thought I kept hitting the breaks). At time of writing I still have the broken pieces of the original part. I plan to take the vehicle into service within the week. There are no warning lights when this occurs since everything I'm the car is technically "operating correctly" - it just thinks the breaks are engaged constantly, and so has erratic behavior. The original recall lists high humidity as a cause, which pennsylvania definitely has. I keep my vehicle outside 24/7, so it has definitely been part of many temperature swings.

Third tail light and rear tail lights remained illuminated after the car was turned off. Driver discovered the brake light switch (rubber/plastic piece) had crumbled into the floor board preventing the tail lights from turning off, thus, becoming a hazard to other motorists on the road as the tail lights remained illuminated even while driving. While the vehicle was being driven, the driver could not accelerate to the appropriate speeds as the car was "thinking" the brakes were being applied and could only approximately drive at 40-50 mph. The vehicle has been inspected and the above information was confirmed as the issue. No other warnings/messages occurred prior to the piece breaking.

The plastic break switch pad broke when I was driving on the highway. I lost engine power and rpms were erratic. Brake lights would not turn off even when brakes were not applied. I could not excellorate normally or maintain speed. Upon examination the pad was brittle and yellowing. There is already a safety recall for this part but only in certain states that does not include arizona.

The contact owns a 2015 Ford Mustang. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired under NHTSA campaign number: 22v011000 (service brakes, hydraulic); however, while driving with the cruise control activated, the brake pedal was depressed but instead the vehicle accelerated and failed to stop as needed. The contact stated that an excessive amount of pressure was needed to depress the brake pedal while stopping the vehicle. The contact stated that the failure only occurred while the cruise control was activated. The contact had taken the vehicle to the dealer and the mechanic was also able to duplicate the failure. The dealer diagnosed that the cruise control had malfunctioned and caused the brakes to not operate as needed to deactivate the cruise control. The dealer replaced the cruise control switch; however, the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 54,000.

Rubber stopper on brake sensor dry rotted and broke off. This caused the car to think I was applying the brakes when I wasn’t. It would cut the throttle while trying to maintain speed and my brake lights were always on even though I wasn’t touching the brakes or in the car for that matter.

Traveling on highway using cruise control at posted speed limit. Approached slowdown due to accident and applied brakes. Accelerated to limit (manually) after passing accident. I was in middle lane. Vehicle abruptly began to decelerate. Continuous pressure on gas pedal did not increase speed, so I put on hazards and moved to slow lane. No failures on dashboard and quick scan through gages did not identify an issue. Re-applied pressure to gas pedal wanting to get to next exit. Car sped up, but when approaching 50 mph, it decreased again. Found that pumping gas would allow me to maintain highway speed. Pulled into truck stop at exit and turned car off. Message on console "hill start assist not available". Let vehicle rest 15 minutes, added gas. Quick web search seemed to point to problem with abs sensor. Seemed to drive ok in parking lot and road leading to highway ramp. Decided to try to get closer to home. Problem occurs immediately after climbing to 50 mph. Cruise control won't work. By carefully monitoring speed and pumping gas into overdrive when needed, I was able to get home. Could not get appointment with dealership until late afternoon next day. Hill start assist message comes on again when stopping. After arriving home and parking in garage I went inside for about 30 minutes. Needed to unload items from car and went back to garage noticing that the strip of lights above trunk are still on. Got back in car, started it (got hill assist message), turned lights on/off and turned off car. Now my rear brake lights are also on. I had seen a post about this, so unhooked battery to prevent drain. Next morning, reattached battery and had same problem. After more internet investigation, awesome humans who have also had this dangerous issue and provided a $5 fix instead of a $500+ dealership fix. . Read more...

While driving and pressing on accelerator pedal car slows down without pressing the gas as if the car is about to turn off. This is a very dangerous hazard as I am in the middle of a highway which can cause an accident if it does turn ofd. I noticed that the brake lights are on 24 hours a day whether the vehicle is off or on , this could be the issue, something is either jammed in the engine system or the brakes sensors are messed up and are not telling the rest of the car that the car is on and moving. There is no messages that are telling me inside the Mustang that something is wrong with my car . I have had my car 6 years and this is the first time I see this happening.

A non-conductive pad is installed between the brake sensor switch and brake arm. The pad becomes brittle over time and breaks allowing the brake sensor to engage. This causes the car to go into �limp� mode which can occur while driving on highways. This is a safety issue since it occurs randomly and can happen at high speeds.

My battery died and required a jump the next morning. When I began driving, the car was throttling down as I was attempting to accelerate as if the engine was losing power. I didn't feel safe driving so I returned home and notice that my rear lights including the brake light stayed illuminated even when the car was off. I had to disconnect the battery in order to save my battery from draining again. After some investigating I found the brake switch pad was broken and this is what was causing the brake lights to be on all the time and causing the lack of engine power. This issue was not allowing the car to accelerate because the throttle is over-ridden by the brakes. The car was thinking the brake pedal was being pushed at the same time as the gas pedal. The brake switch pad breaking and causing this problem is very dangerous. I'm so lucky it happened on a local road and not the highway. I've read multiple accounts of this happening to other people. Ford needs to issue a recall and get this fixed to avoid major accidents.

The brake pedal stopper failed. The brake lights stay on all the time, you are unable to accelerate safely. This is a driveability and safety issue and poor design. This occured while driving on street, when I stopped is when I noticed the brake lights on after 15 minutes being stopped. I restarted car and attempted to accelerate but unable to effectively. I had a vehicle follow me around block and the brake lights were on all the time. Had vehicle trailered to the Ford dealer for diagnosis and repair. This vehicle has only 1857 miles on it.

Pueda revisar todos los untos DE mi carro sobre todo el sistema DE traccion.

While driving up a hill and attempting to pass another vehicle, I briefly lost acceleration. This happened again a few minutes later, and repeated a couple more times. I had never experienced this issue before and there were no warning indicators, or any other signs of mechanical failure. After happening several times, losing acceleration intermittently without taking my foot off the gas, a warning message displayed "hill assist not available," and then disappeared. No other warning messages or dash indicators appeared, and I could not find anything relating to hill assist in my settings. After parking and shutting off my car, I noticed the brake lights remained on- I could not figure out how to turn them off. I searched all of these issues and found a blog post written by another owner experiencing the same issues. The other owner found small fragments of a broken plastic disc on the floor mat, below the petals- I found the same thing in my car. I went to a nearby auto zone for assistance and was advised the broken piece was a "brake light switch plunger. " one of their associates quickly installed a $3. 00 replacement for me, which seemed to fix all of the issues. I have not yet taken my car to Ford, but plan to do so ASAP. Each time I lost acceleration I was traveling up a hill, and it was only temporary- with no other systems appearing to be affected.

Trying to accelerate to make a left hand turn I lost acceleration. This continued, step on the gas and nothing wait a few seconds and the the car will accelerate. Current mechanic is unable to diagnose.

While on vacation (my car was at home) a piece in my brakes broke and caused my break lights to be on constantly. When I tried starting my car the battery was dead. The break likes being on like they were ended up causing my battery to corrode by time I got home from the continuous energy drain. I was able to jumpstart my car but when I went to put my car in drive the vehicle would not accelerate over pretty much idling. When I got my car towed to the dealership (gary yeoman's) they told me the break bumper disintegrated and caused my break lights to be on and a vehicle acceleration override to be engaged.

Car would idle then cut off during stationary, engine would cut off while in motion on highway or city street turning and not turning. Car would not accelerate or move when pressing gas. Heated seat caught on fire. Steering wheel controls stopped working. New battery would die then be fine, car have problems after filling with gas would not start, black and white smoke came out of the exaust and displayed low fuel when it had a full tank. Car restricted me from driving past 80. Power train issues , auxiliary emission control failed, computer output circuit failed.