general problems of the 2005 Honda Accord

Hi. I got an accident about 3 week ago. My vehicle was damaged at front of bumper and the airbag driver side is pull out, but the cost is too expensive for repair my car. I don't have that much at the moment. Can you help me? please.

On several occasions my 05 Accord coupe will stay accelerated when brakes are pressed, in neutral, or releasing the accelerater. On several occasions I have pressed the brake only to not slow down. Thankfully I was on open highway. This has happened and continues to happen on city streets and highways. At low speeds and high.

Afraid car might kill me! hello, I have reported this issue before but am getting zero help. My car has a problem where it is burning through the oil, I've had numerous mechanics try to figure out what is causing it but, nothing. I would get an oil change today and before the month is out, I would have to continue checking and putting oil in the car because it would be completely dry. No leaks ever detected. . . I've change the oil to full synthetic and still have the problem. The vehicle continuously losses power when driving uphill, my check engine light stays on and the light in the glove compartment does not go off while driving. I'm worried my engine will blow up if the problem persist. I am the original and only owner of this vehicle. There is also a problem with the suspension or axel, when I push hard on the brakes, the car makes a noise like the bottom fell out and is dragging metal on the floor. Mechanic also cannot figure that out, I've paid over 6k in diagnosis, repairs and time trying to get help and nothing. I would like to get my Honda checked and fixed. I anxiously await a response and solution to this car. I have covid and this is my only source of transportation.

My airbags are off my door lock is broke I tried to lock the car one day the alarm went off and when I tried to put the key in the driver door the spring popped out so I haven't been able to lock my car . I put my car in the shop and once I did a few days later the maintenance required light came on.

The car went into full throttle while waiting at a light while my foot was on the brake, throwing me out and into the intersection and getting hit by on coming traffic. My foot was no where near or on the gas pedal.

When I first purchased my Honda, it was brought back to the dealer several times for a "shaking" at certain speeds. This was dismissed over and over and blamed on tire air pressure and alignment. I knew this could not be the cause and found other Honda drivers complaining about the same issue. Recently, the passenger side tire came disengaged while driving the vehicle causing the car to crash down on the rotor. The vehicle was at a dealership recently for a repair, I believe this issue has been over looked by Honda and could have caused severe injury to myself or other drivers. It appears the shaking directly caused this issue with the vehicle.

Drive light started flashing while on the freeway at the speed of 60 mph. Took it to the Honda dealership for maintenance and I informed them of the flashing drive light. Later advised me after the intermediate maintenance is done that the transmission needs to be replaced that will cost me $5,000 (on sale for $4100) plus the intermediate maintenance of $313. 00. The car has 137 k miles. Is this vehicle part of any transmission recall at this mileage or is it part of the engine' s wear and tear? please advise. Thank you.

The contact owns a 2005 Honda Accord. The contact stated that while slowing down to approximately 5 mph, there was a sudden increase of engine rpms. The driver was able to park the vehicle. However, the shifter became stuck and could not be switched out of the park position. After approximately 3 minutes, the rpms reduced and the driver was able the change the shifter. The vehicle was not diagnose or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 94,000.

Since I have owned this vehicle (bought used with 68,000 miles) it has had an issue that over 10 mechanics have not yet solved. It has slowly escalated to the point it is now unable to be driven at 250,000 miles. It is an idle issue, the car started revving up to around 3,000 rpm’s (on hot days it seemed but it also started to happen in the winter ) whenever I would put the car into park after driving it a small amount of time. The safety mechanism would kick in on the vehicle making it impossible to put back into gear and I would be forced to shut the car off and let it rest for around 30 minutes before it would start without immediately revving up to the red line again. I’ve replaced everything that every mechanic has told me that it could be. Even tried to replace almost everything all at once. Over time this issue began to get extremely worse and the vehicle would start to accelerate on its own to the point I almost crashed it three different times because I would be unable to slow the vehicle down coming to a stop sign and I’d have to throw the e brake on while pressing the main brake system. Afterwards I’d have to quickly find a parking spot and shut the car off due to the damage I felt like the engine was taking. Then it seemed like possibly an electrical issue because the power would drain overnight and the car wouldn’t start without a jump even after replacing the starter, alternator, battery, etc. I’ll end by saying now when I can get the car started, the last time that I drove it, it had the same issue of accelerating on its own and the rpm’s increasing to around 2,500 or 3,000 or even more at times and felt as if the automatic transmission was missing or slipping gears and the car would almost stall out and shake violently as if you were driving a manual transmission and it was the moment right before you killed the engine. The last time I drove it I had to pull over at a gas station and call someone to come pick me up and pull the car home.

I was driving home, I fell asleep at the wheel approaching a stop light. I hit the corner of the vehicle in front of me and my front left and kinda in the middle (hood area) was smashed in almost to my windsheild. None of my airbags deployed & I hit my face on the steeling wheel causing my teeth to go through my bottom lip & broke my nose. Insurance claimed it as a total loss.

The #2 spark plug shot out of the engine thru the ignition coil, stripped the threads of the cylinder, hit the firewall, and caused the engine to lose power immediately while on the freeway. Repair costs quoted by dealer were $6200 to replace cylinder or $4650 plus $700 machining costs to repair. In reading the blogs of others, this defect is related to the v6 vtec engines and always involves the first or second cylinder only. In one case the Honda manufacturer agreed to share the repair cost.

Driving to work in somewhat heavy traffic when I approached a slight incline. The engine began racing to redline and the transmission would not engage to move the car forward again. I was very nearly rear ended by the vehicle behind me as the car suddenly slowed down. I put on my hazards and pulled to the shoulder, and suddenly the gear engaged again and I was on my way. While slowing down further on in my drive, the transmission began pulsing and surging as I slowed nearly causing me to lose control. I backed off from the traffic and was almost to work when I approached another hill. This time the engine again raced to redline and I pulled to shoulder and shut the car down. I waited a minute and restarted and the vehicle appeared to be fine again. I drove the half mile to work and immediately setup an appointment to have the transmission looked at. I was able to make it to the dealer by keeping the drive select in 3rd and they have diagnosed the vehicle with a failed 2nd gear leaving me to foot the bill for a remanufactured transmission at over $5000. Needless to say, my wife and I as the original owners of this vehicle are very disappointed and hopeful that Honda will help to cover part of the repair. I am concerned that my wife and children could have been in the car when it lost power and could have been seriously injured in an accident and the vehicle is only 8 years old with 75k on the odometer.

While driving on the interstate my car lost power from the engine. The rpm's went higher but there was no power even though the engine continued to rev. There were no warning indicators on the dash to try to understand what was happening except for the rpm gauge. The transmission had completely disengaged just as if it were in neutral even though it was in 'drive'. The scariest part was that I was stuck in heavy traffic driving at highway speeds at night during a rainstorm and there were no visible warnings to observe other than the tachometer and sound of the engine revving up. I understand now that the transmission has started to fail prematurely due to overheated transmission fluid and needs to be replaced at a high cost.

In several occasions I've experienced my car pulling itself to drive forward when I am at a complete stop.

I was driving on interstate 20/59 near ft. Payne, alabama with the cruise control set on 75 mph. I changed lanes to pass a slower car but did not touch the gas pedal. The car started to accelerate on its own. I tapped the breaks to turn cruise control off but the car continued to accelerate without touching the gas pedal. The acceleration was not a full throttle acceleration, just a moderate increase. I then shifted the car from drive to neutral and the rpm's jumped up to redline, again without touching the gas pedal. Luckily, a rest area was approaching and I managed to pull the car into the rest area parking lot playing with the drive/neutral of the transmission and using the brakes. Once I made it to a parking space I turned the car off and shifted it into park. I waited a few seconds and turned the car back on. The rpm's again jumped up to redline without me touching the gas pedal. I shut the car off again and put my foot underneath the gas pedal and pulled up. I cranked the car again and it acted normal. I checked under the hood and everything looked fine. After some deliberation, we decided to continue on our trip and the car was fine for the next 4. 5 hours. We drove back Sunday, may 19 and the car again drove fine for 6. 5 hours and hasn't had a problem since. The morning before the incident, I changed the alternator and oil. I strongly believe that this had nothing to do with the alternator or oil change. Also, I doubled checked the carpet mat in the car and it was not even close to the gas pedal. I am not sure if anyone else has experienced this problem with a Honda Accord. I am a mechanical engineer and I am dumbfounded by this. Being in a car with uncontrollable acceleration is quite unnerving.

Airbags failed to deploy upon impact of collision.

The contact owns a 2005 Honda Accord. While driving at any speed, the driver stopped at an intersection and the vehicle idled at a high speed. The driver had to apply extra pressure to the brake pedal to prevent the vehicle from accelerating. During the failure, the contact had to shift into neutral and turn off the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the throttle body was replaced twice; however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The failure mileage was approximately 167,000.

Windows wont come down, its a electric problem, certain lights in the car nwould go on and off example tale light. Tire problems, and other stuff.

I have been driving my 2005 Accord lx since 12/04. Initially the engine seemed to be a bit racy but I reasoned that it was due to the fact that the engine needed to be broke in. As time and miles accumulated, from time to time the engine would race even after more than enough time to warm up. About a year ago, I went by the local Honda dealer for another issue when I asked the (service manager) about my "racy engine. " his quick response was that the engine needed to warm up to a certain temperature, and it was implied that this was normal performance for my car's engine. Over the past 21/2 years that I have driven the car, I always make it a point to leave extra room in front of me whenever I stop behind another car because the car will lunge forward. To prevent the "lunge," I must ease up on the brake slightly periodically rather than "stand" on the brake. On 04. 19. 07, I rear ended the car in front of me as I came to a stop at a traffic light. There was very slight damage to each of the vehicles. I received a citation and possibly 2 points on an otherwise pristine driving record. As I calmed myself as the day continued, I wondered if there may be some defect that may need to be corrected. Thank you for your time.

Tl-caller owns a 2005 Honda Accord. Failure mileage 34000. Wife parked vehicle and went into store. Ten minutes later she was paged and informed that her vehicle was on fire. Fire department extinguished fire and insurance company had it towed to do an investigation. The insurance findings are not available as of yet. He believes the fire started in or near the engine. Ktf.

My vehicle was parked in the parking lot of a grocery store. I was on my home from work and had stopped to purchase a few items. The engine was turned off. I had been in the store for about 10 minutes when I heard the loudspeaker asking for the owner of a 2005 gold Honda Accord to come to the customer service counter. When I approached the person behind the counter, he asked me to look outside to see if the vehicle on fire was, in fact, my car. Smoke was coming from the engine of my car and two vehicles from the fire department were trying to put out the fire. The car was totaled. Honda insisted it was my fault, but I found out much later that engine fires had occurred in other 2005 Accords. State farm gave me the replacement value for the vehicle, but it wasn't enough to purchase a car of equal value. The Honda Accord was still under warranty. I felt I should have been compensated for the entire cost of the car. Plus, if the fire had occurred while I was driving, I might not be here writing this letter to you. I was just recently made aware of some of the recalls from Honda for this exact problem. I believe Honda should take ownership of this problem and compensate me fairly for my loss. I have the VIN number and all of the paperwork from state farm, including photos of the damage to car taken after the fire.

: the contact stated during sudden, hard braking the vehicle pulled to the right. Then a few days later, during normal braking, the vehicle pulled to the left. The dealership was unable to determine a problem. Then while traveling 30 mph on a slushy downhill road the brake pedal was depressed and the brakes did not respond. The vehicle rear ended another vehicle. There was a police report taken at the scene. The driver received minor injuries. The vehicle was driven to the dealership, where repairs were made for property damage. The dealership was unable to determine the problem with the brakes. The vehicle was taken to another dealership and an independent repair shop, which was unable to determine the problem as well. There was a rough idle when coming to a stop. The headlights flicker at times. Updated 07/05/06.

Contact stated that while sitting at a stop light on a hill and taking foot off the brakes the vehicle rolled backward. Dealer and manufacturer told her this was normal for this type of vehicle. She was told the idle was lower for a quieter ride, and it did not have the power the hold the vehicle on a hill.