general problems of the 2011 Honda CR-V

We bought this vehicle for our grandson for a great price, so we signed an "as is"agreement, knowing the dealer didn't inspect it. We were unaware that the rear axle housing was completely rusted. On 1/1/2026, he was driving and the rear axle housing broke off and the car is disabled. We had it towed to our home. Is this expensive to repair and if so, where do we begin. It seems the recall was ignored. Is it worth repairing?.

I was at a corner waiting for traffic to clear so I could make a turn left. When I started to accelerate the vehicle started to hesitate and continued. The on coming car had to slam on their brakes and swerve to avoid hitting my passenger side. Since that time I had found out there was a service bulletin relating to this problem. Honda service bulletin 17-040. This is my granddaughters car and now I am reluctant to let her drive the vehicle. It is a very serious safety issue!! my frustration is that when I have discussed the issue with 2 different Honda dealers they didn't disclose there was a bulleting but rather recommended changing the transmission fluid and the information was confusing. One dealer recommended changing the fluid once and another recommended I change it three times at the same appointment. Since the incident I have had an opportunity to drive my other granddaughters 2011 Honda crv and it is displaying the same shudder issue on acceleration and when you are at 40 miles and try to accelerate which she noticed. Obviously, if you were trying to pass another vehicle on a two lane highway and it started the shudder you would be involved in a head on crash resulting in serious injury or death. I believe there should be a recall to correct this problem. The cost to replace the torque converter is $3,000 +. The bulletin 17-040 states the affect vehicles are 2012-14. It needs to be revised to include 2011 Honda crv vehicle. I found the bulletin myself through a group that shares information regarding Honda crv vehicles. The bulletin was issued on may 20, 2017 06492 version 1. The vehicle number for the 2011 Honda crv is 5j6re4h72bl017198.

I was driving down a road on the way to take my son to his swim team training. I got about f 5 min away from our home and I felt a large clunk, almost as if I ran something over that was large. I had difficulty steering my vehicle, had a loud weird noise coming from the vehicle, and pulled over. I inspected the vehicle outside, I hit nothing. Wheels looked fine. I popped open the hood and started to inspect, it was getting dark so it was difficult to see. I found that the engine mount bolts had sheared clean off of the engine, causing the engine to drop, cracking the engine bracket and the engine almost falling out of the vehicle onto the ground. It it was not for the cross member below it may have completely fallen out. . The vehicle had to be towed as it was not drivable at this point. I had the vehicle towed to schlossmanns Honda in greenfield WI for repair. Currently my vehicle is at a Honda dealer being inspected for corrosion as I live in the rust belt and there is a recall for corrosion on this vehicle.

My 2011 Honda Cr-v's check engine light came on within the past week, and continues to stay on. I went to autozone to get a diagnostic check. Per their recommendations, I tightened the fuel tank cap but the check engine light is still on. It also diagnosed a p0455 evap, emission control system leak trouble code. I have scheduled an appointment for 10/12/2022 at 12:00 pm at christian brothers, 12000 bermuda crossroad ln chester, va 23831.

Tpms system on a number of occasions the tire pressure monitoring system (tpms)has faulted out while driving on the highway. Each time the fault resulted in the traction control system turning on with no way of turning it off which essentially means you are in all wheel drive mode even on the highway. I brought it in to the dealer who basically said that the problem is due to the tpms system faulting out due to radio frequency interference caused by a cell phone charger cord plugged into 12v accessory outlets in the front of the vehicle when the car is driven more than 49 mph for over 20 minutes . The radio interference affects most Honda cars. Honda warranty does not cover the cost to reset the tpms system.

Back in October 2015, my husband was driving me to the airport at 5 am. As we approached to turn onto the highway, the power steering died and the electrical system turned off. We were stuck in the middle of a dangerous intersection with no way to fix the car. We could not shift the car into neutral to push it off the road. The police came and some good samaritans. Someone found a way to manually pop something off to force the car to shift and that's how we got the vehicle off the road. I had my 3 year old son with me at the time too. It was an incredibly dangerous situation. While I was away, the mechanic shop looked at my car and said it was the computer. They said it was like a 2k fix. We had it towed to the millenium Honda because that's the dealership of purchase. Millenium Honda fixed it and said it was the ignition fuse. Now it's April and out of normal use (my car is 2011 and only 54k mile), the car won't start. It was fully functioning the night before and nothing was left on. Stationary in the driveway, it would not start. It's not the battery because that was changed in March. No sound when you turn the key. Nothing was left on. Today, waiting for dealership to come to a conclusive resolution to the situation. This has shaken my belief in the reliability of my car. Whether it's a computer problem or whatever, it is putting my family and I in danger if it does not function properly. Power steering or electrical failure is not ok. It could have happened on the road. What then? first incident 10/31/15 and now this one 4/17/16.

At 125,000 miles my transmission went out. $3,600 for a new transmission??? that is way above other model SUV I have seen. There are six versions for this one model of SUV, that is crazy. Not to mention to remove it adds a ot of cost vs Ford or chevy ( this is the word of the repair shop).

The car was in an indoor parking lot. Driver backed up out of its parking space at a low speed and bumped into a wall behind the parking spot. At that point, the car jumped into drive and began accelerating without driver doing anything. Driver applied the brake, but the car continued to accelerate and hit a cement pylon. The car bounced off the cement pylon and the car continued to accelerate forward, even though driver was applying the brake. The car hit the cement pylon again and then another car. The car only stopped when driver put it into park and turned it off.

The contact owns a 2011 Honda Cr-v. The contact stated the vehicle would not shift into park and the key could not release from the ignition. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer. The dealer changed the shifter pin and adjusted the shifter cable. The contact stated that two days after the repair, the vehicle would not shift into park. The contact took the vehicle back to the dealer where the dealer adjusted the cable a second time. The failure was corrected. The failure mileage was 8,000. Updated 03/23/12 updated 03/30/12.

The contact owns a 2011 Honda crv. The contact started the ignition and the vehicle began to surge forward abnormally until crashing into a wooden retaining wall. There was no personal injury. The vehicle sustained moderate damages. The vehicle was currently being repaired at the dealer for body damages. There was a recall related to the failure under NHTSA campaign id number: 11v458000 (power train). The contact planned to have the vehicle repaired under the recall. The manufacturer was made aware of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was unavailable.