general problems of the 2012 Honda CR-V - part 2

When I use the hands free bluetooth on my vehicle, the person on the other end state they hear a loud buzzing noise and can't hear me speak. I tried switching to my work's iphone and the buzzing noise is still there. It's sounds clear on my end but not on the other end. At this point, I can't use my hands free device on my vehicle which is now a law in my state that we are not allowed to use our phones when driving unless it's connected to hands free.

The heater core in my 2012 Honda crv failed. Honda knows the heater cores are defective and issued technical service bulletin 14-063 for 2012, 2013, and 2014 crvs. Honda has not issued a recall. The defective heater cores cause the defroster/heater to emit cold air only. Should the heater core fail during a snow or ice storm it would lead to snow or ice buildup on the windshield. This would severely compromise visibility and could lead to a crash.

Hi te problem with the vehicle is than the heater just work on the passenger side and driver side it just blow cold air I read looking into internet than is no just my car I found a couple complaint regarding DE same problem this happen in stationary or been driven thank you.

The vehicle makes a loud noise on startup that lasts for 2 or 3 seconds. It usually happens after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours.

The defroster on the driver's side emits air that is much cooler (sometimes cold) than the air on the passenger side. The ability to keep the windshield clear is greatly hampered during changing weather conditions. Honda TSB 14-063 attempts to address the problem, but it is not effective and places an unnecessary cost on the consumer.

My Cr-v presents itself with a loud grinding noise at start, caused by a defective,vtc actuator which is referenced in Honda service bulletin 09-010. This problem began in 2008, and is on going. This defect seriously affects resale value, and potentially can cause catastrophic engine failure. This repair should be covered by Honda's 60k power train warranty, but Honda says at the current time there is no fix for this problem, which they have been working on for several years. I have contacted my dealer and Honda USA numerous times without resolution, as the frequency and intensity of the problem worsens. There are numerous unresolved complaints and videos on the internet about this defect. I have consulted a lemon law attorney, but because Honda makes no effort to repair the problem, it doesn't qualify.

I was in my 2012 Honda crv pulling into a parking spot to park when I experienced unintended acceleration. The car would not stop even after hitting the brakes hard but rather sped up causing me to hit the side mirror of a parked car. Finally I turned to avoid another collision and was able to slow the car down that way.

We have a problem with noise when starting in cold weather. There is a hesitation sometimes when driving like not getting fuel.

Software update for battery. Heater/defroster blower motor (subassembly motor). Dead battery. Software was supposed to read battery voltage and wasn't working correctly so Honda required software update. Had that done at dealer on 01/01/15. At that time asked about the heater/defroster noise and the fact that it didn't always work. Was informed by dealership the subassembly motor needed to be replaced. Repair estimate is $1200. 00. On Wednesday 01/07/15 went out to start car and battery was dead. Had to replace with new battery. Car was purchased April 2012, less than three years old. Out of warranty due to mileage. Software update didn't work in sensing voltage since I came out to a dead battery 1 week after "update". Subassembly motor part not something that is a mileage wear and tear issue. Can be a safety issue if defroster not functioning properly subsequently leading to poor visibility through windshield.

Engine cranked but vehicle would not start. Towed to service station. Analyzed and fixed by shorting battery cables. I was told that there was a Honda service bulletin on this. I was also told that no repair was possible to prevent this from happening again. Called a "glitch" in the computer system. My concern is that if this engine failure happened in traffic, a rear end collision could have happened. I do not know what other systems on the car like airbags etc. Were inoperative because of this problem.

On the driver side, cold air blows close to the driver side door. Unable to make it warm. Very uncomfortable in the winter. I see that this is happening to someone else.

I was driving on the freeway with no cars around and I heard a loud sound like a gunshot then my sunroof exploded and glass showered down on me. When I reviewed the damage, the glass was pushed outwards and there was no sign something had impacted it.

With the cooler weather upon us, we began using the heat recently. As a couple others have also noted, the driver side "heat" is blowing cool/cold air. The engine is warming up and the passenger side heat is working as expected.

The heater in this car blows cold air and it is nearly impossible to warm up during long commutes even when the fan and heat adjustments are on high. It has not improved during the past three months of cold weather and it doesn't do any good to purchase an awd vehicle when the heat doesn't even work.

Sun roof glass blowing out on route 24 (massachusetts) @ 65 mph.

Driving down the interstate, all windowes rolled up. Ac powered on and the passenger side window exploded. Nothing hit window, nothing even in close to vehicle. Very small child rides in this car.

This problem has occurred now a total of about six times. The first time was in the spring or summer of 2014, when my car was slightly more than two years old. Generally speaking, what happens is this. When the car is idling or at low speed (in a traffic jam once, slowing for a red light, idling in a driveway, etc. ), three engine lights come on. The car then bucks at low speeds and has very little power when accelerating from a stop. When driving, it slowly increases in speed and then, at about 30 mph, starts behaving normally. Basically it acts like it hasn't downshifted and is in too high a gear. On one occasion, on the highway, it seemed also to be struggling to go 60 mph, as if in too low a gear. I had the car looked at in October of 2014, after it happened two more times in quick succession. They were unable to replicate the issue or determine what it was, but updated the car's software. The problem didn't recur until June of 2015. It's now happened twice more in quick succession, and I intend to have it serviced again. Clearly this is a big problem because when the issue occurs the car is unable to accelerate at all quickly. Trying to merge onto a highway under such circumstances is dangerous. The problem eventually resolves itself after you go through several cycles of driving the car, turning it off, driving it again for a while, turning it off, etc. The car's misbehavior lessens and then stops, and eventually the engine lights turn off.

My 2012 Cr-v has customizable auto door lock function. It has couple option. 1. With vehicle speed, 2. Shift from p. Problem with option 2. I select option 2. Because I want to get more secure safety. Not less the secure safety. When I was escaping from close road, I need to drive back. I started engine and open driver door to make sure my rear tire is going right way. Changed gear p to r. And door didn't automatically lock. I guess there is protection for when driver door open and engine running, door didn't lock itself. I understand that. But I escape from there and close door and change gear r to d. And drive up to 40 mph. And door is still unlock. This is an error. They can not advertise they have auto lock function for safety. The function give people to understand for have more secure safety by car. They must watch safety while car is driving more then 20mph over 500 feet. If they think really care about safety, they should lock other doors at least. And keep watch what's car status.

This is about NHTSA recall 12v-338, and to report Honda's failure to remedy a defect within 60 days of first contact with the dealer (Honda of annapolis, 1720 west street, annapolis, MD 21401). We brought our 2102 Honda Cr-v to Honda of annapolis on March 22, 2013 for the replacement of driver's and passenger's door latches and inner handles under recall 12v-338. The service advisor stated that no parts were available, so the parts would be special ordered and we would be called when the parts were in stock. We never received any call. We went to Honda of annapolis on June 27, 2013 for an oil change and inquired about the recall parts, which were then in stock, and the recall work was performed. When we asked why we had not been called about the recall parts, no one offered any rational explanation, much less any apology. Later that day, we were unable to lock the Cr-v, the car alarm would go off when either front door was opened, and we had to turn off the alarm by putting the key in the ignition. We returned to Honda of annapolis the following day to have these problems fixed. Thus, Honda of annapolis missed your 60 day repair deadline by over 30 days, and then performed the replacement in an incompetent manner. If we had not gone in for the oil change, we believe we would never have received any call from this dealer about completing the recall.

This has occurred multiple times. I was driving, came to a stop and was unable to accelerate to 25 mph. The car hesitated upon acceleration and then suddenly accelerated. Normally when it occurs it has happened after a stop at a light, stop sign or corner. However, it has also happened while I've been on the highway, let off the gas and then attempted to accelerate. I brought it to my Honda dealer for repair and they cannot duplicate the circumstances. I reported it to Honda headquarters and they can do nothing if the dealer the can not find the problem and had no other complaints about this problem which seems unlikely. This is very scary and could lead to a collision.

I bought a new crv in September 2012. The only problem I have been having is that at certain times, usually at slower speeds when I step on the gas there is a 2-3 second delay before the car accelerates. During this hesitations period the engine does not rev and the car just coasts. This has happened 15 times the past year. This creates a major concern when I'm trying to merge into traffic or pull out from an intersection. Note, my foot was not on the brake and I've had the econ switch in both on and off mode and the problem still occurs. I took my car to the dealer in February 2013 at which time it had 3,500 miles on the odometer. The service department was unable to duplicate the problem. In September 2013 I had work done on an accord I own and I showed the service advisor copies of 6 reports thru safercar. Gov. The advisor did not have any response. I now have 8,000 miles on my crv. I recently reported the problem to Honda customer service and they said they haven't had any similar problems reported. In my opinion they are wrong as there has to be something causing this. At least I have it on file with Honda.

I am writing to see the issue I am facing with my car is a safety concern or not. I contacted Honda and they indicated all of their Honda crv 2012 models are designed the same way to protect the interior electric mechanism of the car. I have a visibility problem when it is raining or there is moisture on the side windows (all four sides including driver side) of my Honda crv. So when it rains or there is moisture on the side window while the car was sitting their overnight, I am having difficulty to wipe off any water droplets or moisture by sliding my side window down. I have tested many other cars. All of them squeezes off the water on the window by just sliding the window. My Honda crv doesn't allow me to do that. I brought this to attention back in 2012 to Honda. I was advised to always to properly wipe off my windows with a clean cloth before driving. I understand that it my responsibility to ensure I have clear visibility before starting to drive. I have been doing this since 2011. My question was what if it raining heavy and I am driving. There is an urgent need to see cars behind me using my side-view mirror. I slide my window to have a clear visibility and close my window back again. Again their a need to do so? should I keep doing these over and over?.

Manual lock not working. Known problem lock assembly worn out. Known problem per internet search. If key fob does not work locked out. I was locked out in downtown jacksonville florida at night. Was a dangerous situation.

Gary maitland 1211 king st. Reports high beams much lower intensity than low beams. They do not illuminate the road ahead at any speed. Must use low beams only. Safety hazard.