71 problems related to electrical system have been reported for the 2012 Hyundai Elantra. The most recently reported issues are listed below. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2012 Hyundai Elantra based on all problems reported for the 2012 Elantra.
I went to start my car and it would not turn over. All the lights were on, the vehicle wouldn't move out of park, and the security system kept going off. The last time this happened I had the starter replaced and the neutral safety switch and it was fine for a bit but now it's happened again. This is at least the 3rd time I've had this issue. Please help! I know I'm not the only one. I had to have aaa come and pick my car up and bring it to a garage.
A while ago the airbag light starting coming on intermittently and I originally thought it was the sensor detecting weight in the passenger seat or not and perhaps the sensor was a little off but did not investigate. Over time the light become on constantly but I didn't notice this shift until the horn stopped working recently too. After some troubleshooting of the fuse and relay, an independent shop determined that the clock spring is the issue. After researching online I discovered there is an extended warranty for the clock spring on my vehicle of which I was unaware. I do not recall receiving a letter about this [xxx] ), although the warranty extension was announced years before my vehicle showed signs of an issue. I also saw from other posts that the clock spring is a common issue possibly impacting the reliability of the airbags and horn and dealers have been hesitant to replace the clock spring until the issue reaches a certain degree of severity. Now I wonder if the airbags in my vehicle have not been ready to deploy in case of an accident since the seatbelt light started coming on and driving without a functioning horn adds more risk of an accident. I'm surprised that a recall was not previously issued as both the airbags and horn impact the safety of the vehicle. Apart from the concern of the part reliability itself, the lack of communication around the safety bulletin vs how recalls are communicated seems it could have put many at risk of malfunctioning airbags that would increase the severity of injury in an accident and a malfunctioning horn that would increase the chances of an accident. How is a faulty part that impacts functionality of the airbags and horn not a safety-related defect that merits a recall? information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).
Nhtsa: #23v651000 I need to know when I can get this major problem fix. This is a safety issue that needs attention. The vehicles anti-lock brake system module could leak brake fluid internally and cause an electrical short. An electrical short could result in significant overcurrent in the abs module, increasing the risk of an engine compartment fire while driving or parked. 4/13/2024 I was contacted took my vehicle in and was told a fuse would be ordered and I would be called back in to to get this safety issue fixed. I just spoke with the service manager in terrell and he said the remedy was taken away on April 14th 2024, one day after I was a the dealership and all ordered were canceled. Please see my invoice from April 13th, 2024 in attachment. This is a big problem for me.
It’s been happening recently everyday when going to start the car it doesn’t start and I have to pop the hood, open the fusebox cover and lift the wire attached to the fusebox and then when starting the car it starts. It’s been happening every other day and sometimes a week after.
The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the vehicle was jerking while depressing the brake pedal. The check engine warning light was illuminated during the failure. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that there was a short circuit in the engine wiring. Additionally, the contact stated that the steering wheel was shaking while driving above 50 mph. The contact then received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 23v651000 (service brakes, hydraulic) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was made aware of the issue and confirmed that parts were not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 135,000. VIN tool confirms parts not available.
I complied with Hyundai's voluntary recall of my 2012 Elantra, supposedly designed to deter theft with some sort of software update. Four weeks after this, four teenager rolled up to my house in a stolen Hyundai sonata. One of them jumped out of the car, smashed my car's back window, and stole my car. This whole process took place in broad daylight, in front of multiple witnesses, over approximately 30 seconds. I contend that Hyundai's "voluntary recall" was 1) fraudulent, in that it does not do anything to fix the actual problem; 2) dangerous, in that it led owners to believe their car was safe when it fact it was not; and 3) a waste of taxpayers' time, as it caused me to take several hours off of work. Hyundai should be compelled to 1) actually fix these vehicles; 2) compensation any Hyundai owners whose vehicles were stolen. While I have insurance protection on this vehicle, I will almost certainly need to pay more money than that to replace this car with one of comparable utility to me.
Please find below a description of the malfunction in my Hyundai Elantra, as this is the reason I'm requesting inclusion in a recall. Since the week of thanksgiving 2022, I've had several instances of my vehicle stalling without warning before engaging the transmission; for example, my car once stopped moving completely on the freeway while entering the onramp at 55 mph. Since then, the problem has only gotten worse, stalling up to seven or nine times per week. Because of the severity of this issue, I’ve had it inspected multiple times and would gladly submit it to another one if requested. Obviously, a defect of this magnitude with no obvious cause not only puts me at risk as the driver, as I can’t prepare for a sudden stop, but all road travelers around me are also subject to this issue. As you know, a sudden halt could lead to collusion involving numerous people. To date, an independent service provider has not been able to identify the issue or recreate the problem, as it occurs randomly with no warning lights or signals to prepare me for what’s about to happen. Should you need further details, I may be reached at susanramsey1@gmail. Com.
I received notice of safety recall number 193 from Hyundai motor America. I contacted the service department at 2 local dealerships - Hyundai fairfax and Hyundai springfield - about a month ago to try to schedule this preventive maintenance but neither location replied to my inquiry. I don't know if recalls are optional for dealerships but I don't know what else to do. I was informed in an online chat that I could submit this dealership complaint through your website. I hope you can advise on my options/next steps. Thank you.
My motor has a knocking noise, it has not been inspected by anyone, oil has been changed, engine light is on, also my tail lights an brake lights go out an I have changed them 3 different time in the last 2 months, it could cause a accident, I have called dealership an I have no recalls. But when I look it up I see other people who own same car has the same issues.
The sterring wheel makes a noise and sounds crazy every time you tuen it back and fourth the windows wont go down on there own and I replaced the fuse so that electric the gas goes down everytime I fill up its goes down to half tank like its eating the gas.
Charging port. Doesn’t connect to phone. Unstable power source.
A few weeks ago, I was driving my 2012 Hyundai Elantra (114,000 miles on it) and it started to sputter and I could not accelerate above 20 mph and engine light came on. There had been a similar intermittent probelm prior to this. I had it towed to my dealer and ended up with a replaced coil pack on one cylinder. On 11/4/20, I was run off the interstate by a semi because as I entered the highway, I could not accelerate beyond 20, and then 40 mph and the tacometer regisered 0. I took car back to dealer where they said that the "tech reset adapt. Values" ("valves" is what they told me verbally). Well I left with the car after the supposed "fix" and 1/2 mile from the dealership, the same DE-aclleration occured, and this time when I went back to dealership the manager had the tech run the diagnostics on original problem on his ipad and tech said the coil pack was fine. The manager then had the tech run all system computer checks and the second time around, an error pointed to the crankshaft so they ran all the computer updates, which took a good 20 minutes, and said that likely fixed the issue. I thought the issue was fixed but today, two days later, I was driving the car and the engine just stopped in the middle of the street while I was driving. I restarted the car and drove it a few miles and I noticed again that the tacometer was not working. This is the 4th time I had to take it to the dealership. I asked them why they didn't run updates when the car is in for routine maintenance and he said they only do so when a problem is noted. The initial issue almost got me killed on the highway. And according to the dealership, other drivers of Hyundai vehicles are experiencing the same issue. Someone will be killed if this safety issue isn't resolved. The issue has not been resolved as of today, 11/6/2020 regardless of what prior svc reports upload states.
Car was parked and completely off. I put the key in the ignition and turned it partway. All electronic components and headlights came on. I turned the key all the way and it would not start. There was a loud rythmic clicking and each time it clicked all the electronics flickered. Jumping the battery did not work.
The vehicle was stationary. My tire was flat on the side of the road in a desert and I turned the car off to change my tire. I tried to start my vehicle and all accessories turn on and the car unlocks with the electric key fob but the car doesn't start. Inhibitor switch is bad is faulty. It starts sometimes and doesn't start at sometimes. Many people have become stranded due to this defect and have reported it on car guru and many other Hyundai forums. Everyone believes there should be a recall for this faulty issue.
I have been experiencing failures from my speed control. It moves slow on it own regardless of how high the meter says. When braking the car shakes and then on its own it goes off and all the lights on the dashboard comes on. This has happened to me 3 times on the highway. The engine light also came on recently and now my car vibrates/ shakes when idle or when it starts.
Tl- the contact owns 2012 Hyundai Elantra. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 20v393000 (equipment) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact called to mcdonald Hyundai (6500 s broadway, littleton, CO 80121;(720) 513-6046) where it was confirmed that the part was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware if the issue. The contact had not experience a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Several months ago the car alarm went off for no apparent reason (the car was sitting in our garage and no one was attempting to steal it). When it went off it was very early in the morning. . . Like 2 or 3 am. We tried everything we knew to try to shut it up. . . Finally disconnecting the battery. We took it to our local Hyundai dealer where we were later told that one of the many sensors had gone bad and they would order a replacement part. That seemed to take care of the problem initially. . . But a few months later the alarm went off again at 2 or 3 am for no apparent reason. We called the dealer and were told they had no available appointments for two weeks. We waited the two weeks while the car sat unused and disconnected from the battery and then brought it back to the dealer. This time they had the car for most of a week saying that they could not replicate the alarm discharging. We finally just picked up the defective car. . . And that very same day. . . Again at 2 am, the alarm went off again. My husband tried everything he was told to try to shut it up. . . Nothing worked. So, he went to again disconnect the battery. . . But the dealer had tightened the cables to the battery too tightly. After spending an hour and half a can of wd40 we were able to disconnect only the positive cable to the battery. . . And there it has sat for nearly a month. . . Unused and disconnected. I contacted Hyundai directly and they seem unable much advice other than �take it to another dealer or back to the same dealer and ask them to try again. � we would like to just get rid of this car but could not sell it in good faith with this current problem. . . So it is both unusable and not worth much as a trade in.
The dash console continues to go go out to the point the odometer, speed , mileage and other instrument panel information is not visible. When I purchased the vehicle they replaced the dash console and 2 yrs later is needing replacement again.
This is the second time this happens to me. The eps light turns on, the steering wheel gets tight. So the power steering disconnects from the engine. You literally can't steer. This last time it happened I was driving down a grade at night. If incoming traffic would of been coming I would have crashed into them or go down the cliff. The power steering was replaced once by dealer already less than a year ago. This car is un safe and I refuse to drive it any more. I was able to push it in neutral to the shoulder once I put it in park the car shook and it shut down.
After it rains, ( in motion or standing still ) water comes through the light above sun visor, soaks the driver's side floor front and back, and goes into dash this is causing corrosion to all electrical components in the dash could cause failure to devices and a fire hazard. The touchscreen went black, so I pulled the fuse only to notice the fuses had corrosion. My feet get soaked making the pedals slippery. I did research online only to realize I am not the only one with this problem. The water on the floor has soaked through the carpet and pad to about 1/2" of water at the highest point. This could cause mold and mildew to be circulated through the car. The car has gotten condensation on the windshield after it rains and the sun comes out. The moisture inside the vehicle is starting to cause damage to all electronics.
Tl the contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the brake lights remained illuminated while the vehicle was in motion, without the brake pedal being depressed. The failure persisted for approximately ten days. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for a diagnostic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 106,000.
Battery draining overnight. Brake lights and interior lights going off and on overnight. All of this goes off while stationary. O.
So my car all of a sudden started making a strange popping noise while driving the vehicle. Everytime I would turn my steering wheel at a certain angle the wheel would pop. As I drove the car it would continue to make this awful noise until one day im driving down the road and it popped and the steering jerked my car out of the lane . Driving home the wheel was rather stiff and I worried constantly about getting in an accident . My reason for the steering issue is I worry someone will be driving the car and it jerk them into a car coming from the other side of the road which will result in a head on collision. Second issue is the electronical system in general. Everytime I start my car it doesnt start all the way and it dies out mid driving . , I ended up pulling out of an up hill parking lot and not being able to stop the car at the stop sign because the car died out after I had it in drive. I had to pull up and bump the curb in order to stop the car from rolling out into oncoming traffic while leaving the parking lot. I am not sure if its dealing with the ignition in general but that would definatley be a saftey concern. My other issue is the airbag light will not go off. After a certain milage the light came on and I can not get any mechanic to even attempt to fix it over fear of air bag deployment and having to total the vehicle upon repair. I am seriously terrified if I get into a vehicle accident the air bags wont go off at all and it will result in either a really severe injury or even be fatal from airbag failure .
Dash display of odometer/mpg/et cetera no longer is readable due to dim or missing digits. This was repaired under recall several years ago but has recurred. I no longer can see necessary information about the car's equipment or drivability status. This occurs at all times, driving or stationary.
I honestly believe I was ripped off for this vehicle I’ve been having to replace one thing after another since I’d gotten it. The brake system on the front passenger side seems to keep grabbing when I’m not even touching the brake. Every time I change the brakes only the front passenger side gets worn down way more then the others. I was thinking it was brake drag, but I litteraly greased my brakes and guide pens then it started making the squeeking noise again when I wasn’t touching the brake. It also compromises my engines functions. My engine lags out and I have a feeling it’s putting more torque into the engine and transmission than it was supposed to, and now is causing problems in them. It causes safety issues because the brakes are one of the most important systems on a vehicle it can cause me a bad accident if the caliper becomes to worn from heat damage, because it excessively is putting pressure on it. I haven’t taken it to the dealership to recreate the issue yet, but I did mention it in the very beginning because I had suspicions of my vehicle having problems, but they said they couldn’t find anything when they ran the VIN. They didn’t actually test my vehicle which was what I needed. My check engine light has been on.
The air bag light came on did my research and it's a common problem. This needs to be a recall.
Takata recall. I bought this car from the original owner in 2016 around the time a recal for it went out and I didn't know until today. My car sometimes takes two times to actually start. I turn key and have to either hold it or stop and do it again. My car hydroplanes extremely easily compared to other vehicles. Normally it is only a second besides the time I rear ended someone with no bad weather then another while it was raining and I lost complete control and thank god no one was around me and I am used to the vehicle so I could gain control again truly a miracle. Other smaller issues I ignore.
Intermittently engine won't turn over. It will sometimes go a week or so turning over normally, & then without warning, it won't start for 10-60 min or longer according to 1000s of drivers. Last night, I was stranded for 50 min in a parking lot at night trying to get my car to turn over. Dash lights up, fuel pump goes on, but there is no crank. I filmed it https://youtu. Be/nbz957tb72u it's called "Hyundai Elantra wont start-again. Dealership said they've never heard of this before. . Right. " but there are 1000s of other complaints in that search. Some forums say it's a inhibitor switch. The dealership denyies such reports on Hyundai's manufacturer, although many drivers say on these forums that they had to have their Elantras towed to the dealership before they were told there is no problem. Helpppp me !!! it randomly turned over 50 minutes later. That cannot happen! I could be in an emergency situation. Any of these drivers could be in an emergency situation. Look at the comments on any youtube video after typing in Elantra won't start. Hundreds of people stranded from this electrical malfunction Hyundai refuses to acknowledge. Please read my details I typed on my video. Battery is good. I had my son with me at the lynnwood one en route to his doctor appointment after it wouldn't start for 10 min in the driveway last month. Everett I had an appointment so that will be on record. They didn't even look at it because it started when they turned the key and their online manufacturers site reported no problems and they refused to do a simple google search when I asked. There's no way the manufacturer hasn't heard of this. The examples are overwhelming. Someone is going to get hurt, if they haven't already. Major hazard to public safety. Hyundai needs to take responsibility and recall this! please help me. It's like Ford denying tranny problems in their'12 focuses.
My car highlights has went out several times and I have replaced the lights and they still goes out . And the brakes lights goes out, and now my rack pinyon is gone out. This car has cost me more money than its worth.
The brakes lights and front passenger lights are always going. Apparently, its happening with many Hyundai customers, there forum written online about these same issues all the time. I've had to replace over 30 bulbs in 4 years.
This is a pushbutton start vehicle. Intermittently, when the button is pushed, the car won't start. This occurs with a fully charged battery, foot depressed on the brake pedal, etc. This is apparently a very common problem, although my local dealer professed to never have heard of it. Consensus online is that it is a faulty "range switch", resulting in a failure of the vehicle to sense that it is in park. Dealers claim that they "can't replicate the problem", and so can't fix it.
While in motion, car jolts as traction control light blinks as well as the engine malfunction light. Engine then shuts off. This has happened multiple times over a 2 month period, at a variety of speeds and on both highway and city streets.
"takata recall" turn ignition key to start position and click, click, motor does not start. Turn key off back on to start position and engine starts. This happens randomly.
Airbag light and tire pressure light came on when I turned on my car. It does go off after driving a few minutes, but always comes back on.
The first trouble started when I was driving on the highway at 60 miles/hour, my car started slowing down and would not accelerate. I had to drive at the speed the car would choose to run and in a few minutes it would work fine again. But this kept happening when I would accelerate the car on highways and I took it in to the dealer who said it was sensor problems. Engine light comes on when I use air conditioning, or use the head lights. Car will randomly not turn on although battery is new and makes a humming noise as I turn the key.