general problems of the 2012 Hyundai Elantra

The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 25 mph, the vehicle jerked and suddenly experienced unintended acceleration along with the speedometer increasing. The accelerator pedal was released and the brake pedal was depressed to slow the vehicle in speed. The contact merged to the side of the road. The contact attempted to continue to drive the vehicle but the failure persisted. No warning lights illuminated. A dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 186,000.

My 2012 Hyundai Elantra limited engine began making a tapping/ticking noise a few years ago. The noise became louder and then I discovered that my car qualified for the extended powertrain warranty which was granted to any 2011-2016 Hyundai Elantra owner with 1. 8l nu engine that a class action lawsuit brought against Hyundai motor corporation. I was never notified by Hyundai but rather a mechanic that I brought my car to that was aware of the campaign. I contacted Hyundai and was told to have the engine diagnosed by my local Hyundai dealer. The results of the diagnosis were submitted to the Hyundai motors corporation warranty department and my claim was denied as I was told that my mileage and years were past the qualifying criteria. I had brought my 2012 Hyundai Elantra limited to the Hyundai dealership that I had purchased the car as certified used Hyundai in 2014 for the engine diagnosis to determine if the engine noise was related to the extended powertrain warranty granted to owners of any 2011-2016 Hyundai Elantra with 1. 8l nu engine. The borescope results and photos were sent to the Hyundai motors corporation warranty department and it was confirmed that my engine did indeed have the "piston slap" problem as outlined in the class action lawsuit and all four cylinders were severely scored. Upon contacting Hyundai to request the borescope video and photos that I had paid $200 to the Hyundai dealership service department for the diagnosis, I was told if I wanted the video and photos I would have to hire an attorney to obtain them from the Hyundai warranty department! I was never notified of this "secret" campaign! needless to say I am extremely unhappy about this. I deserve to have this engine fixed under the extended warranty that Hyundai failed to notify me about. This is unreal! please tell me what can be done here. Thank you, douglas e stevens.

The same issue that caused recall of these vehicles for several models years, such as this campaign: 2013-2014 Hyundai Elantra (MD/ud, jk, gd) brake pedal stopper replacement (recall campaign 170), is occurring in this 2012 vehicle, which does not yet have this recall. The brake pedal stopper pad has deteriorated. I am reprinting the language of the above referenced recall as it exactly explains the safety issue with this vehicle. "the brake pedal stopper pad can deteriorate allowing the brake light switch plunger to remain extended when the brake pedal is released. This will allow the brake lights to remain illuminated continuously. It can also allow the shift lever to be moved without depressing the brake pedal, or activate the engine management brake pedal override feature. ".

Case # [xxx]oct. 7, 2021 Hyundai recall resolution team contacting me on a safty recall on my Hyundai vehicle (on phone answering machine) notice of proposed class setlement for Hyundai Elantra (brown et al. V. Hyundai motor America et al. ) (received booklet in mail) description of adverse performance of 2012 Hyundai Elantra– VIN [xxx]: all of these issues occur in any weather or if the car is warmed up or not. They don’t occur all the time but about half the time. -from a standing stop (like when entering an intersection or turning on to a road) lightly pressing on gas pedal will get car moving then in 2-3 seconds it will stall out for 2 or 3 seconds, almost to the point of the engine stopping. At that point, moderately pressing on the gas again will cause the car to accelerate suddenly & forcefully. It is terrifying when a car is coming at you & you don’t know if it’s going to start accelerating or just die. -driving and maneuvering in a parking lot is quite a risky adventure. At these slow speeds the car will randomly stall, lurch, hesitate & accelerate suddenly & forcefully with just a light touch on the gas pedal. Not the best performance when trying to park or maneuver around closely packed cars. -I have taken the car to the dealership at least 5 times to remedy this problem & they either said this behavior was not detectable or it was operating as designed. I have documentation consisting of service invoices. They obviously weren’t being truthful, considering the recall & class action lawsuit that has subsequently been issued dealing with this issue, revealing that Hyundai knew about this problem. Can I finally get my car to operate properly & safely? [xxx] ? this is the transcipt for the phone call from Hyundai on or around 9-14-21 on answering machine (it didn’t identify which recall it was referring to): this is the Hyundai recall resolution team contacting information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

Engine- drive chain and running tough pet firestone there’s a engine recall on 2012 Elantra.

Engine light came on. Took to auto zone & vide 0713 & p0711. I also took my vehicle to aamco which verify the sensor in the vehicle needs to be replaced however they have to take the transmission apart to fix. I only have 31,000 on my vehicle. Has there been a recall already or do you expect this should be covered under 1000,000 even though I am 2nd owner. They did give me a card for roadside assistance.

Takata recall car doesn't want to start and struggles to do so. Have replaced battery and key fob batteries. This has to be a starter issue, possibly an electrical short. Says "key out" while I'm driving it half the time. I am afraid it will cut off while I'm driving it! I have only had the car for 2 years! been doing this for about 2 months.

Inhibitor or range switch when attempting to start the car it only makes a single click and the display does not always show that the car is in park. Sometimes shifting into neutral allows for a start. Sometimes wiggling gear shift while in park allows for a start. Sometimes it just doesn't want to start. Mechanic won't replace any part if they can't replicate the problem. I've seen a lot of complaints about this issue for this vehicle (2012) as well as the 2011 and 2013 models. This can seriously cause people to become stranded!!!.

The power train does not shift at times, sticks in 3rd gear, pops in and out while driving between 30 and 35 mph.

Gear will not shift or move. Transmission cable broke and left the vehicle immobile.

Sold a lemon law buyback car without my knowledge. From what I understand I was to sign a document stating that I new that I was purchasing a lemon law buyback car. I did not find out until I went to get the plates for my car and they showed me the title. I contacted the dealership and basically my loss their gain. May 2015 had to replace hose and have a/c recharged costing almost $300 July 2015 had to have both from wheel bearing replaced along with tires costing me $800 June 2016 had to have end links on sway bar and cv joint and shaft replaced. This was under the powertrain warranty still in place on the car check engine light come on and off at random times. When tested said it was an O2 sensor. The back drivers side door lock sticks. So I have to manually lock it for my key fob to lock all of the doors. Today was just told I need wheel bearings and tires on the front end. I believe this car has too many issues being a newer car. I have never had a car with this many issues. Especially a newer car. I cannot get out of the loan because it is a lemon law buyback and the resale on it is horrible. I cannot afford the upkeep on the problems it keeps having. Something is wrong this car.

Vehicle stationary. Shifter in "park". Attempted to start vehicle. Turned key in ignition - car did not start. Radio, lights, air and all other peripherals started and functioned appropriately. Tried to "jump" vehicle using two different jumper-cable sets. Had battery tested - oem battery, 4 years old, rated at 550 and functioning at 542 - good battery, no need for replacement. Popped out the shift lock insert. Inserted flat head screwdriver to depress the button. Put car in neutral. Put key in ignition, turned to start - car started as if nothing was wrong. Drove for about 30 mintutes. Stopped at a store. Attempted to start vehicle as normal - vehicle started fine. Parked vehicle in driveway overnight. Attempted to start vehicle to go to work - vehicle would not start. Repeated the same process from the previous time it wouldn't start and was sucessful. Have a video showing the shifter going through all gears - when put into "park" the lights on the shifter completely go out and then eventually flicker back on. Please contact me if you would like the video, as a picture would not show the issue.

The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start without warning. The vehicle had to be placed in neutral to start the vehicle. The gear shifter would not help the vehicle start and had to be pushed in order to start. The contact mentioned that the failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was repaired; however, the details of the repair could not be provided. The failure recurred. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 75,000.

Car wont start when you try to turn it over. All lights work even air will blow but wont start.

When accelerating the car gets stuck between 25 and 40 mph. It wont proceed to the next gear. I have to lay off the gas, let it drop back down and hope that it works the next time I accelerate. The transmission fluid is not low. The car is in motion while this issue happens.

Right front axle bolts became very loose at 39,000 and the axle could have separated from the transmission and or wheel potentially cause the driver to loose control and being involved in a serious or fatal accident. Hyundai should either use effective lock washers or lock tight on the bolts to prevent them from backing out of the axle where it connects to the transmission and or wheel. A recall should be ordered. If you google this problem there is a video on the web where another Elantra has the very same problem. I became aware of the problem because my Elantra started making a very not8iceable popping sound when you put the transmission in reverse or drive. The bolts became progressively loose to the point that while driving at highway speeds when I would take my foot off the accelerator the axle would pop due to looseness and when I placed may foot back on the accelerator it would pop. This is a very serious safety flaw. When I look the car to the dealer they charged me $63. 65 to re-torque the axle bolts that should never have become loose.

Failure to start; car does not recognize that the car is in park and it prevents the car from starting, even though it is in park. Car cannot be taken out of park or put back in sometimes after it is started and idling. Happens intermittently, very frustrating. Have bypassed the situation by taking the samll clip from the center console off, then depressing transmission engager and moving the gear shift into reverse and then back into park. The vehicle will then start. After all the complaints I have seen for this very same situation, I cannot believe there has not been a recall Hyundai?.

Yesterday, August 17, 2015, I parked at my apt complex to get my mail, turned car off completely, I was literally out of my car for 40 seconds. I got back in started it up, and nothing. It would not even turn over, no sounds, no clicks, just dead silence. All of the panel lights were lit, however, and the air vents were blowing air from the fan, the radio turned on, but not the engine. The battery was newly installed on October 2, 2015 when I purchased the vehicle as a certified pre-owned. I used my Hyundai roadside assistance, someone arrived in a normal vehicle to jump start my car. First try, it started up just fine. He was trying to sell me a new battery for $150, indicating that because I live in arizona now, the heat does strange things to cars. I didn't take the offer. I let the car run while I was parked for about 20 minutes, then drove to the carport where I park my car normally in my apt complex. I shut the engine off, and hesitantly tried to start it again, and to no avail. Nothing again. It wouldn't start. After searching online, I found a few sites where others had the same issue. One person mentioned to turn the ignition to acc and throw the shifter into neutral, which I did, and then magically my car started up perfectly fine. I tried turning it off and on again about 5 more times, and it did just fine, no stalling. Since I've had this vehicle there have been many times (at least 20+) that it won't start up on the first try, but seconds later I'll retry the ignition, and it'll start up, but it sounds as if it's going to conk out. Like it's barely hanging on. I've had no other issues with my car besides this. After reading on multiple forum sites, it seems like it's fairly common, and I think there should be a recall set for this. Thank you.

Vehicle accelerated on it's own, and applying break pressure only slowed vehicle but kept accelerating. Hyundai reports no issues, yet this incident is all over the internet doing searches on Hyundai. Hyundai reports no recalls. When car placed in park mode, rpm shot to maximum of 8 and stayed there. When placed car back in drive, car rpm went to 2 and car wants to accelerate fast. Please NHTSA, apply pressure for recall for this very unsafe condition on a vehicle.

While stopped in traffic (restaurant drive thru lane), vehicle lurched forward; attempted to put transmission shifter into park (automatic transmission) to check the problem; vehicle would not go into park or reverse; would only go into drive or neutral. Hyundai dealer inspected and identified problem as a defective shift assembly. I have been in contact with Hyundai customer care expressing concerns regarding potential safety issues (not being able to reverse vehicle; vehicle not being able to be restarted if engine died). Vehicle is only 2 years old and just out of the 60,000 warranty period. Hyundai (at this point) is refusing to repair under customer good will.

I left home for a 1,000 mile road trip starting on the date specified above. Mileage indicated above is a close approximation to when the incident first occurred. On the first day, I stopped for gasoline at a station. When I tried to start the car back up, I had power to everything but my car made no attempt to start. After trying several times over the course of about 5-10 minutes, it finally started and ran fine. This happened five times over the course of the trip lasted 8 days. I have made an appointment at the dealership to look it over, again. I say "again" because I took the car in to the dealership less than 500 miles prior for what I believe to be a related issue. The automatic transmission shift lever would not leave the "drive" position when I stopped at one point and needed to get out of the car. I could not because I could not put it in "park", gear shift lever was stuck in "drive". Back to the "won't start" issue - wiggling the automatic transmission shift lever seems to have helped me start the car when it previously would not. Dealer said they could not find the cause of the stuck automatic transmission shift lever.

Car will periodically not start - all warning lights come on and there is a humming sound. Often occurs when wheel is on an angle. Car will typically not start 4-5 times in a row. Overhead lights work at the time of the failure. A few minutes later, after much jiggling of the steering wheel while turning on ignition, it starts fine. One time it started after emergency brake was released and the car rolled a bit. Brought to dealer who could not replicate problem but acknowledged this problem had occurred with other Elantras. Dealer was about to release car when driver demonstrated that gear shift would not move out of park. Dealer found code c1513 brake switch shorted. Brake switch was replaced. Dealer kept car a few days with no replications. 7 days later, starting problem reoccurred at driver's home and again after a day at work. In both cases, wheel was not in "12 o"clock" position. In conversation with dealer, we discussed that when the steering wheel is locked (not sure of definition), car should not start. He recommended jiggling the wheel while turning ignition. He also explained that the gear shift will only move out of park if 1) ignition is in on position and 2) foot is on the brake. Why is steering wheel locking so often?.

I bought the Hyundai Elantra 2012 and has been giving me problems. The car will not start sometime till I start moving the steering wheel and the shifter. It has done it to me several times since I bought it and I took it to the dealer I purchased the car and the mechanic said there is nothing wrong. I argued that there is they expect me to leave it at the dealer for a while till they find the problem but the only thing is that it's my only transportation. The shifter locks on me while I'm holding the brake down, I have to use the manual button to unlock it. I notice that when it doesn't want to start and I manually shift the gear to neutral the car starts. The dealer wants me to replicate the problem and I ask my self how??? it doesn't do it all the time. I have roadside assistance and I called them but by that time they get to me I got the car to start.

Several times a day when going to crank the car it would crank. Also you could not shift the car from park to drive. (throttle plate stuck).

When I accelerate and every time the gear changes, the car would jolt as if I went over a speed bump. It's really uncomfortable when the car jolts while I accelerate, but the real problem is when I'm applying the brakes. The car would jolt and the speed would increase which nearly caused several accidents. I currently have about 13,000 miles and purchased this vehicle about 1. 5 years ago. Within that time, the ignition wouldn't start. I would ignite the car and the car would eventually die on me. People said it might be the spark plugs, transmission or even the battery. However, it didn't make sense because the car was purchased only a couple of months before that incident. I never even wasted my battery in any way either. What if the car decides to turn off while I'm on the freeway? I can't afford that to happen.

Car lurched, engine shut off. Car became uncontrollable and all the warning lights on the dash lit up. Eventually managed to get to side of road where the transmission locked into place. Electrical system was still functional but car was completely unresponsive. Occurred again 800 miles later after "repair" both incidents nearly caused accidents.

My car started to clunk and would loose drive train power this happened a 4 separate occasions while accelerating and after being completely warmed up. I brought the car to orlando Hyundai and they called their main office and was told that there were 5 2012 Elantras that had to have the transmissions replaced in the united states but they were not going to replace mine. They said they were going to do some further testing but in all likelihood I would be put back into my car with the problem not being solved. I think this is a safety hazard and Hyundai is not taking this seriously and playing with peoples safety.

This incident happened the night I bought the vehicle. The vehicle will suddenly buck/jolt/jerk as if hitting a speed bump in a very jarring manner. This also happened during a test drive of a vehicle of the same type and color (I'm not sure if they sold me the one during the test drive. ). I was informed that the vehicle which jolted in this manner was repaired and sold to another customer. I'm not sure if they were telling the truth or if they gave me the same vehicle. Still, this is a serious defect that is potentially a big safety hazard. The salesman who sat next to me was also concerned when the incident occurred twice in the span of one 10 minute test drive. I bought a brand new vehicle not expecting this type of serious, internal issue. After some testing, I believe that this sudden buck will more likely occur after accelerating then decelerating. Please investigate this issue. Thank you.

While pulling onto a city street away from a curb, the car lunged forward and would not continue to drive. I checked to see if the gear selector had jumped out of d to n. Did not. Tried to continue down the street, and the car did the same thing at different intervals. Transmission would not shift properly out of 1st gear. Rpm's and engine continued to operate, but transmission was continuing to grind, bang, jump and not shift. After coaxing the car to my residence, some three or four blocks away, I notified the 24 hour Hyundai assistance line. Being Sunday, they could not help. No way to tow car to dealership. Drove car to dealership at roughly 15 mph. Car continued to balk and jump. Dealer manager was contacted on Monday morning. After checking with Hyundai and a computer readout on auto, it was determined that it was a defective transmission. Transmission was ordered and replaced. Interesting to know if other customers have had same problem. May lead to a total recall of the 2011 and 2012 automatic transmissions on the Hyundai Elantra automobiles. Investigation needs to be conducted!!.