Hyundai Elantra owners have reported 55 unknown or other related problems since 1996. Table 1 shows the 1 most common unknown or other problems. The number one most common problem is related to the vehicle's unknown or other (55 problems). For details of each of the problem category, use the links in the table.
| Problem Category | Number of Problems |
|---|---|
| Unknown Or Other problems |
At my 30,000 mile maintenance work ($600. +), I was called back to shop to show me "very dangerous" corrosion around rear axle/frame parts. I bought this car new from same dealer and was sold a $800. Warranty rust-proofing application. It was clear that where no coating was applied, rust was there and I was told it would be risky driving the car. The low millage and no history of the car being driven in salt water conditions, I was amazed at its condition. (I grew-up in the north rust-belt) I retired close to the south ocean area but never had a car with such advanced rust. (several cars) the dealer refused to honor the warranty and Hyundai's warranty does not cover it. I think poor quality of metal was used in the manufacturing of this vehicle. It's obvious the dealer is also at fault and refuses to honor his warranty. I guess that is a legal problem that I'm stuck with. The possible safety problem comes under your concern for sub-standard manufacturing.
I was driving, came to a stop. I then began going around 35 mph the hood on the car came open. I could not see the road. I stopped the car only to realize the hood was damaged. The hood was dented and the fenders were damaged. The windshield was cracked in two places. I had to pound the hood and fenders out just to get the hood closed. When I got home the hood latch was not working. I then noticed that the cracks in the windshield were 5 to 6 inches long. The hood needs replaced, also the windshield needs replaced, the fenders need fixed also.
Yet another door handle has fallen off my 2007 hyundia Elantra! this is #4. This vehicle is only 4 yrs old, and yet 4 of the door handles have broken off. The prior complaints I have filed have been 10400898 and 10280729. I am really disgusted with how Hyundai is treating this. Hyundai tells me that it happened because of the cold. 2 of the door handles fell off in winter months of December and February. 2 fell off in the summer months of July and August. When I mentioned this, they backtracked and blamed me for ripping them off. . . I am a 150 lb, 47 yr old woman. I do exercise, but I am not a gorilla! I've never had any other vehicle loose a single door handle, let alone 4 of them! I am upset that I am blamed instead of them looking and researching the problem! I am not a certified Hyundai technician, but I can see that each and every one of them have broken in the exact same spot on the plastic! it has a little pin it rides on and the plastic breaks right there each and every time. I've seen it. The Hyundai technician should have been able to see it also. But they claim it is not a part or vehicle problem. Hyundai claims that I have been tearing the handles off in some way! if that is true, I sure wish I knew how I was doing it so I could quit wrecking my car! it is out of warranty, so they don't care nor are they interested in making sure it doesn't happen to me (or anyone else!) again. Too bad, we aren't required to do anything now, so go away is the response they gave me when I sent them a letter. . . Do not purchase a Hyundai!.
I have had two windshields cracks in a 6 week period of time. The diameter of the impact on the intial impact on 11/911 was the size of a pea and left a horizontal crack that was about 12". The second impact, on another brand new windshield, left an impact the size of a pin head and a crack 18" long. I believe these are defective windshields, I did not even hear the impact on the second windshield. By the time I saw the crack and parked my car the crack was almost 6" long.
On three different occasions, the vehicle’s engine has stopped running while I was driving. In each case the vehicle was coasting at a slow speed, I was not applying my foot to the gas pedal at the time. The electrical power did not die, nor was there jerking or noise to indicate the engine had stopped. The only sign that the engine had stalled was the "malfunction indicator lamp" came on, and no acceleration power. I still had lights, radio, fan, etc. Luckily there were no other vehicles in back of me at the time. In order to restart the car, I had to shift from drive to neutral, turn the ignition key to re-start, then shift back into drive. For each incident, the car restarted right away.
Three window regulators on my 2000 Hyundai Elantra are not working and I am unable to roll them up and down. The rear passenger side window slides down when I am driving. Approximately a year ago. I had the drivers side regulator replaced and it's broke again. They don't seem to last. In order for me to put the windows up I have to hold the switch and the window. I have hurt my hands countless times already. . It hurts alot!! please help me concerning the window regulators on these cars. Each window cost alot to fix and I have 3 broken now. After researching the web, ii have found many people have experienced the same problems that I am experiencing regarding the windows and I am hoping for a recall because it is a major problem. I hope you can help and am looking forward to your response concerning this matter. Thank you in advance.
This is a follow up on complaint #fbn21-10357. . Hyundri checked car on 6/22/11 ordered part and replaced defective part on 6/29/11. While in parts dept. Was stated that this part had been replaced on several other cars. I am well satisfied with the results.
Knocking sound started in right front when turning right. Not much but progressively louder & longer on all turns. The front transaxle shaft basically went out and had to be replaced along w the ball joints in front end. 5 speed.
My 2006 Elantra hatchback has a sudden acceleration problem. I experienced several times that my car sudderly accelerated while normal driving, for example, I was driving at 40 mph but the car suddernly accelerated to 60 mph. On 1/25/2010, I was driving home at 2:30 am, setting the cruise at 70 mph and the engine speed was showing the engine was about 2750 rpm but it suddenly accelerated to 4000 rpm and the car was hard to control if I was not paying attention to it. I turned off the cruise setting at once, later I turned on the cruise again to set at 70 mph and later it suddenly accelerated from 2750 rpm to 4000 rpm and then slowed down back to 3000 rpm and again accelerated to 4000 rpm then back to normal speed at 2750 rpm. Also, my car could not go forward straightly, it always goes to the left side. I have to turn my steering wheel to the right in order to go straightly.
I would like the us dot NHTSA to investigate the anti-lock braking system (abs) on my 2008 Hyundai Elantra. It is my understanding that the purpose of an abs is to prevent loss of traction and steering control during an emergency braking situation. During a recent round of winter snow, I found that the system did not shorten my stopping distance and did not prevent the front wheels from losing the ability to control the direction of the car on snow. While attempting to exit interstate highway 465 at a speed of approximately 25 mph, I was unable to decelerate sufficiently in the length of the deceleration lane to make the curve of the cloverleaf and lost the ability to steer the vehicle while the abs was activated. I did some experimenting and found that I could stop in a shorter distance with more control, if I shifted the car into neutral when trying to stop. I also found that I could slow the vehicle better and not lose steering control if I downshifted into a lower gear, than I could using the brakes. I took the vehicle to the Hyundai dealer near my home and complained about the abs. They drove the car and told me that no repairs were needed and that the abs performed similarly to other Hyundai vehicles. When I advised them that the abs did not allow me to maintain control of the vehicle, the service tech agreed, but stated the vehicle was preforming as designed. I spoke to the service manager when he returned from vacation today and he agreed that the abs did not work like it should, but that replacing parts would not resolve my concerns with the abs. I believe there is a design flaw with this abs as it performs on snow and ice and I am requesting a formal investigation. I have observed the same result of engagement of the abs on wet pavement in the past, but to a lesser degree.
I was 1 mile from my home at a red light when my 2005 Elantra accelerated without the gas pedal being touched. I first tried the brakes which did not stop the vehicle from accelerating. I turned the car around and had to ride the brakes until I could get the vehicle home. I put the vehicle in a variety of positions, for example drive, park, and neutral the engine still raced. The vehicle smelled of a burning smell. The vehicle had to be towed to the shop.
I purchased a new 2008 Hyundai Elantra in April, 2008. In June of 2008, car surged while at red light. Dealer could not replicate problem, no repair made. Surging happened again in June of 2008, dealer replaced cruise control cable. In April of 2009, surge happened again, dealer replaced fuel sensor. This was a very dangerous situation, so when it first happened, I opened a case file with Hyundai. Each subsequent time, I reported it to Hyundai, as well. The last time it happened was in October of 20l0. At this point, I traded the car in at the Hyundai dealer where I purchased it. I told them that the car was unsafe and should not be put on their used car lot for sale. Today, I discovered that the car is for sale on their lot. I spoke with the owner of the dealership who said that he would request time from Hyundai to "tear the car down" in an attempt to locate and repair the problem. This car is extremely dangerous. The surging happens when the car is idling at a stop, so a pedestrian crossing in front of the car is in danger, or a rear-end collision could easily happen at a stoplight. I reported this to Hyundai consumer affairs today.
I took delivery of the brand new car & about a mile down the road I noticed prominent bounces after the car would go over bump in the road when the car was decelerating to a traffic light. I felt a total of three bounces with the first being the largest, second half of first, third half of second, & fourth couldn't be felt. It was bumper to bumper traffic & going light to light. The bumps were raise sections of the road affecting all four tires. The bumps were not potholes. I emailed my salesperson the next business day of the problem with no response. My main concern is highway driving. One stretch of highway has cement slabs in an undulating pattern that I have driven over daily for a very long time at many different speeds & in many different driving conditions. My previous car would react by rumbling up & down. That sensation was constant over the years at any speed & driving condition. Once I cleared that section of the bad highway, my car would immediately stop. The first time I went over that same stretch of highway in my new car at an est. 60-65 mph, the car begin to oscillate harmonically (bounce rhythmically) & continued to harmonically oscillate (bounce) once I cleared that bad section of the highway for an additional minute. I estimated the total time at two minutes. The harmonic oscillation felt very consistent over that two minute stretch. Once I went over another bump the oscillation went stopped. The struts are supposed to dampen the oscillations. I brought it into the service department. The mechanic test drove it & said the suspension felt firm. The suspension checked out ok (no numbers given). It has a sport tuned suspension & was suppose to do this. The mechanic didn't drive the bad section of the highway because it was too far away. I will try to resolve this matter with the Hyundais field service engineer.
I purchased a brand-new, 2008 Hyundai Elantra GLS on July 8. I drove the vehicle for about 100 miles from the time I drove off the lot through the end of the 24-hour new ownership period. About 24-25 hours after I bought the car, the vehicle lost power during a typical left-hand turn that I made while pulling out into an intersection. The car had about 125 miles on it. The car lost complete power in the middle of the intersection. The vehicle malfunctioned at about 5:00 pm on Wednesday, July 9. I had to place the vehicle in park and restart it (still in the middle of the intersection during the malfunction). I drove the car to the nearest Hyundai dealer after not being able to get towing assistance through Hyundai. The Hyundai service department ran tests on it for two days. They found a "misfire code on cylinder 1", but could not find how to repair the problem. The car has been transferred back to the dealer I purchased it from. It has been in the shop from Wednesday, July 9 at 8:56pm until today. The car poses a danger to me and others. The vehicle lost complete power in the middle of the intersection while I was trying to drive in normal conditions. Had this happened on a busier road, I may have been hit by oncoming traffic.
In July 2008, the control arm of my 2002 Hyundai Elantra broke off while I was driving approx. 10 mph and approaching a stop light. I lost control of the car and skidded off the rode, but did not hit any other car or barrier. I had the car fixed at the closest auto shop. I received a recall notice yesterday from Hyundai related to corrosion of the control arm. Knowing that if I had been traveling any faster or on a busier road when my control arm broke that there would have been serious issues, I tried to schedule the soonest appointment to get the other control arm checked and verify the work. The soonest available appt. The shop gave me was mid-June. This resolution leaves me and my family at risk until that date and I believe that that is entirely unacceptable.
I own a 2003 Elantra gt and I have never received any information about any of the recalls listed on this site.
When driving on the interstate the rear end of the car is very unsteady over 50 mph when it is raining, causes hydroplaning, even with brand new tires made for wet traction.
The contact owns a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. While driving 60 mph or greater, the rear of the vehicle swayed from left to right. The failure was prevalent when there was extra weight in the vehicle. The dealer stated that the extra weight changed the rear alignment and caused the vehicle to sway. The dealer attempted to align the rear of the vehicle on four different occasions, but was unable to correct the failure. The current mileage is 8,252 and failure mileage was 2,783. The consumer stated the defect is due to unequal camber and toe settings is what the consumer was informed by the Hyundai dealership. Specialty parts company engineers suggested replacing upper control arms that the defect was due to poor suspension. The consumer provided numerous repair invoices and pictures for the vehicle. Updated 08/13/07.
Headlights burning out frequently was the first sign of problems, replaced them as the dealer said this was inherent to the 2001 Elantra. In August 2006 check engine light came on. Also, the air bag sensor light was on, headlight out again, took car to dealer, they called back and said that the alternator had been over charging and not only was the over charging burning out the headlights it also had taken out the cruise control module, and air bag module. Car had only 42000 miles on it, and was 2 weeks from being out of the 5 year bumper to bumper warranty. Well here it is 6 months later and 47000 miles and check engine light is back on, I have since purchased a diagnostic tool to read the codes. The car was running rough at idle. The codes came up as mis fire on cylinder 3, tps sensor failure and map barometer failure. I replaced the plugs and wires, engine still ran rough. Took car back to dealer they replaced the tps, still running rough, they suggested that because of the faulty tps that the excessive dumping of fuel into the jets could have caused one of them to be clogged. I had them clean the jets as well as replace the plugs and wires again (they had also found that #3 wire had been arcing. ) this took care of the idle problem. I took the car home and the next day driving the car would surge between 3rd and 4th gear, engine light back on. Still have the map error. Dealer ended up replacing the map sensor. It has been about a month since this last occourence and all I can do is cross my fingers until I trade it in. Abl. Pco.
2002 Elantra surged forward when brakes were applied. The dealer attributed the violent acceleration as possibly being due to the thick rubber floor mat which may have been wedge under the accelerator, however the consumer disagreed with that theory stating when he started the vehicle, the floor mat was at least 6-9 inches away from the accelerator. The consumer, his wife and the mechanic all experienced the sudden acceleration.
Only 10,000 miles clear-coat on hood and roof started to crack. Now at 24,000 miles, paint is coming off hood and roof. Car is kept in a garage and is washed at least every two weeks and hand waxed once every three months. Dealer keeps claiming air pollution.
The ball joints cracked which caused the front left tire to become detached from the vehicle while driving approximately 70 mph on the freeway. The consumer contacted the manufacturer but they have not done anything about the issue. The vehicle's tcm/ecm software failed which caused the transmission to slip/surge while driving. The vehicle would not go into reverse due to an internal failure. The dealer replaced the a/t assembly and flushed the a/t fluid. The left sunvisor was coming apart. The visor clips broke and as a result they could not hold the visor in a stable position. Seat belt bolt cover broke. The passenger side door lock was hard for the passenger to unlock from the driver's side. The dealer replaced the door latch and actuator assembly. The vehicle's heater took about an hour to effectively warm the vehicle. The dealer determined that the blend door was loose at the actuator.
The entire steering assembly locked up. The vehicle was towed to the dealer. The consumer was told to file a claim with the insurance company. This was a result of the floor mat being under the brake/clutch. On another occasion, the vehicle would not come out of gear or reverse because a bolt had loosened and traveled up throughout the gears and was removed by the dealer.
While driving, the air bag light illuminated. The cause of the problem had not been identified. The consumer stated the air bag light continued to be a problem, the dealer would just reset the code without identifying the problem. The driver side window went up and down by itself, the dealer replaced the master switch, the black rubber stripping was missing from the door, the cigarette lighter was inoperative, the battery failed and was replaced abl. Pco.
Hyundai Elantra--when going 45 mph or faster, I get the same loud scraping noise that others have reported. The dealer has no answer. I get the noise mostly on the passenger side, but have heard it on the driver's side, also. The noise is so annoying that it may be a danger by distracting the driver with its screech.
Engine checl light keeps coming on. Consumer has taken vehicle to dealer and had it checked three times. Mechanic stated that they replaced canister close valve and purge control valve. However, engine light was back on again.
The back bumper from my Elantra is in bad conditions. The paint is horrible. I noticed that its not only on my car but also in all Elantras like mine. And they all have it in the same spot as my car. Its a round big spot. Looks like the paint is defective.
Everytime vehicle has been started engine check light would come on and remain during duration of driving. Been in contact with dealership, and was informed a ground wire in chassis was causing the problem.
Consumer had a problem with engine check light coming on. Took vehicle to dealer for recall 00v09o000/ fuel tank repairs. About two days later, engine check light came back on for about a week.
While driving enginie check light will come on unexpectedly. Vehicle had to be taken on various occasions to dealer for stalling problem.
When starting up car would smell gas throughout the ride. Then check engine light came on. Took vehicle to dealer, and they could not find anything. Consumer felt this vehicle was unsafe, especially with other people in it. Felt like the car might blow up.
When driving at variable speeds, the engine cuts out then cuts back on. No consistencies to when or why it cuts out. Check engine light stays on for weeks at a time. Contacted dealer and have taken it in three times for this. Dealer apparently finds nothing wrong. First service, dealer kept car for 10 days only to replace the gas cap. Second and third visits found nothing to substantiate check engine light cause. Yet the check engine light comes on periodically and stays on for days. After 44000 miles, engine sounding different than when purchased. Burning smell comes form engine periodically, smells like a belt burning but no apparent belt is cinged. At times engine does not appear to change gears smoothly.
Car was being driven on a highway 295n in new jersey. Tire(s) apparently blew causing the tread from the driver side tire to knock the plastic covering loose from the wiring harness which came loose causing loss of power. Dealer is claiming tires were not maintained properly causing the failure therefore the problem is not covered under warranty. Also the insurance adjuster went out on 10/7/99 and agreed that the tires caused the damage and wsa not covered by insurance. My 22 year old son was driving at the time so I have to rely on his account of what happened. He stated that he did not hit anything, the car shimmied and he pulled over to the side of the road and lost all power to the car.
The paint and clear coat on my car is cracking the dealer calls it checking. They want to repaint the car and I am looking for the factory paint that is why I bought new. I tried to turn car in for a new one but they would not exchange the car I could use any good advice in this un called for situation.
No summary.
While driving at 35 mph engine check light kept coming on, and vehicle stalled. Also, when trying to put fuel into the vehicle, the fuel leaks out and the consumer can't put fuel into vehicle. This is the second time this has happened.
02 sensor replaced on 8-6-01, b/u light switch replaced on 8-6-01,ignition coils repl. On 9-21-99, engine check light been reset 10 times,#1 & #4 not firing 10 times or more, car looses power, chugs then dies 2 times.
When driving the check engine light keeps coming on for no reason, and the windshield wipers don't work.
No summary.
I have taken my car back to the dealer 8 times. The engine cuts out at all rates of speed. Causing loss of power and power steering. The dealer replaced several parts but the car is still not working properly. When pumping gas, when the tank is full, the pump doesn't shut off. Gas then pours out of my car and down the side of the car. Hyundai has told me that they have a part that can fix it but they haven't made any attempt to fix it at this time.
Glove compartment warped.
Head liner in rear is falling .
Headliner falling down.
The engine check light is on while vehicle is in motion. The vehicle caught fire prior to this incident . The vehicle has been into the dealer several times. The dealer has not been able to pinpoint the problem.
Engine light comes on intermittently for extended periods. Please give further details.
Ltr request info re any recalls and accidents on the 2002 Hyundai Elantra.
Consumer received recall notice for 2003 Hyundai Elantra but the nearest dealership is 40 miles away.
While driving the car will suddenly "jump" or "skip", and the engine check light will come on. Then it quits and goes back to normal; this has happened three times so far; am reporting to dealer now.
Engine check light illuminated and remained on, indicating malfunction within the exhaust system. Dealer states that problem occurs within enginecheck light sensor. Replaced the engine check light sensor which did not remedy the problem. Please give any further etails.
Nhtsa recall 00v095000 and manufacturer's recall 037. Took it in for repair two days later. Presently, check engine light comes on. They won't make the necessary repairs.
No summary listed for above vehicle.
The check engine and airbag light did not come on until after the recall I refuse to pay for the dealer's damage.