general problems of the 2018 Hyundai Sonata - part 2

I purchased my 2018 Sonata on 10/23/21 from south point austin with 30-35k miles on it. In the year of owning it, I've had 3 manufacture issues occur. Once on 12/31/20, there was an issue where my car detected an issue, and my maximum speed was 30 mph while I was on the interstate. It was a sensor issue and covered by my manufacturer's warranty. On 11/11/21, I had to purchase a new starter for $789. 26 despite this being a manufacture issue and covered by warranty. There was not a dealership in my area that would look into my car until 2022. They would not cover a rental until at least a diagnosis report came back which they would not begin until 2022. They said the lengthy waitlist for a rental would prevent me from securing a vehicle to use in the meantime. Because I need a functioning car, I had to purchase this out of pocket. On 11/23/21, I had to purchase a new battery. Again, this should be covered by factory warranty, but the dealerships would not look at my car until 2022. I paid $241. 14 out of pocket for this. Setting the issue of these unexpected expenses aside, my car does not feel safe to drive and has had several manufacture complications. I had a near fatal accident in my previous Sonata do to a software issue causing the brakes to go out. This line of cars should be looked into for the safety of all.

I am affected by the new decal in regards to my trunk latch and it urgently needs to be fix. It would not open after multiple attempts and a few days later it started working again and now that it’s open it will not close.

1. Accelerator malfunctioned as I removed my foot to hit the brakes. The speed increased. When attempted to hit brakes, would not brake. The brake hardened up and car went through bank glass door and window. 2. It malfunctioned. 3. Vehicle is in the body shop. Will take to dealer when done 4. Police and insurance 5. No warnings.

The trunk latch released failed and is malfunctioned. My safety along side passengers were put at risk when the car experienced a flat tire on the highway far from city limits in extremely hot weather and trunk was not opening to get to spare tire/tools. Trunk had to be forcefully opened after hours to finally to get to spare/tools. There was no warnings prior to this failure.

I looked up my car on carfax and it shows a 3 different odometer readings. On 10/14/19 it had 15. 125 miles. On 03/04/21 it had 61,284 miles. On 02/01/2022 it had 30,371 miles and finally on 3/3/23 it had 38,269 miles. This clearly shows that somewhere along the line, the odometer was changed. My car has been on the shop on several occasions in the less than 2 year time frame.

One of my continental pure contact tires failed at highway speed at 4,926 miles. All four tires were purchased new from my dealer on 11/25/20. Mileage at that time was 47,314. On1/21/21 with an odometer reading of 52,240, one tire developed a leak at the intersection of the sidewall and tread -- there was nothing stuck in the tire indicating a puncture -- yet there was a hole in the tire. The tire could not be fixed so I had to buy a different brand tire to replace it because the tire shop did not carry continental tires. With the recent recall of many tires by continental, I am concerned that my three remaining continental tires may not be dependable. I contacted continental directly and was told that the pure contact tire in my size (215/55sr17) is not included in the recall while other sizes are included.

Coding p0507 idle air control system rpm higher than expected p0441 evaporator emissions incorrect purge flow p0420 catalyst system below threshold.

Trunk latch locking arm can break with few miles on the odometer. When the arm breaks due to it being plastic connecting to metal via a strong tension spring, the emergency trunk release lever is defeated and the trunk cannot be opened, or closed if it broke while open.

I was traveling on the highway with no existing problems. I drove off my intended exit when suddenly my vehicle jerked really hard, check engine light started blinking and my car started slowing down almost to a complete stop. Didn't know what to do so I just kept driving as the car kept jerking and slowing down on its own! I stop by an auto zone where the guy comes out and uses his device to find out the potential problem he says the problem seems to be the knock sensors.

Rough vibration slowly coming up steering when braking to stop. Could be rotors or tires. Started a few months ago.

Driver states vehicle decelerated while driving, pulled off the interstate and over to side of the road vehicle caught fire in engine compartment.

I rent this car from tower rentals I paid 1300$ day before easter no one would come get it fix it I'm in queens I got money tolls and gas took to their repair shop in bronx yesterday after 4 hours they told me nothing wrong sent me home after they did 50 min inspection which it failed. They have caused me tons of money parts jumps travel time loss of work and do not care or reimburse me the car sits x time won't start again without jump I sent numerous emails asking my yearly receipt all I've paid still not given it to me.

I was driving on an open interstate using Smart cruise control when a message popped up on the dash screen: Smart cruise control disabled. Radar blocked. Weather conditions were dry and my car was clean. There had been no snow accumulation in my area nor any in the area in which I was driving. There were a few cars around. The car that was in front of me made an exit about a minute after the message and indicator lights appeared. The message and indicator lights returned to normal after about 5 minutes. An hour and a half later, the same message and indicator lights appeared. The sky was darker with a few flurries in the air but no accumulation. I turned off Smart cruise to finish the trip. I did not experience any problems with Smart cruise on the 5 hour return trip. Weather conditions then were gray and raining. The trip is mostly interstate but the destination is mountainous. I made the trip several times over the last 3 years with no problems.

Entertainment screen turns off after a while and will reset or I have to tap it and make sure it goes back on and does this over and over at times. Smoke comes out exhaust when passing a car sometimes.

We were driving the car last night on city streets and the highway, when we encountered a bad smell coming into our vehicle. We first thought it smelled like natural gas coming from the outside area we were driving, but then concluded after another 5 minutes of driving the car that it was our car that was making the bad odor or smell. I pulled off the road, and shut the engine in the car off. I looked under the hood of the car to see if anything was burning or if something looked like it was very hot. I did not detect anything wrong under the hood. The coolant was fine, and the motor oil was good. So then we got back in the car, and the smell was still there. We noticed the cell phone was sitting on the "self" charger that this car has as a feature. We took the cell phone off of this area where it charges, and noticed the top rubber area was very very warm or hot to the touch. So we concluded this had to be the area that was causing this caustic smell that we were breathing for about 15-20 minutes of driving. The top surface of this rubber pad area did not look burnt or destructed, so it must be underneath this area that whatever is recharging the cell phones, maybe a battery of some sort, is no good. We were afraid it would start a fire the smell was so strong. So after a few more minutes, without the cell phone recharging on this area, the smell started to go away. So that is why we are deducting this must be the problem area. And it could be a serious one. I drove the car today, and the "strong" smell did not come back. But you can still smell the residue smell from last night's problem that occurred.

Trunk latch broke. Its a known issue by Hyundai on 2017 & 2018 models.

My daughter was driving on the highway when the car started to buck and wouldn't accelerate. The check engine light came on and she pulled off the highway. She called Hyundai and they told her not to drive the car and to have it towed to a dealership. We were then told by Hyundai that this is a known problem. They installed a knock sensor wiring harness and said they hope that does the trick but it could need a whole new engine. Expected repair time is 6 weeks since parts are on backorder. We have since spoken to several dealerships as well as consumers and there are so many complaints that some people have been without their cars for months.

I went into purchasing dealer for first oil change at 5100 miles, they flashed computer and loaded update Hyundai campaign 953 product improvement. About 50 miles after the recall was performed my car went into limp mode and is barely driveable. Car was also hesitating, and bucking a bit. Took it back to dealer they stated the code didn't apply to my car and flashed it again. It again went into limp mode after 50 miles or so. The recall is supposed to place the vehicle in limp mode due to rod bearing wear. My car has 5,400 miles on it and it now at a different dealer. Got information from that dealer regarding a tbs #19-01-002 and looks like engine replacement or wiring harness.

I can not get Hyundai to give me an adequate answer.

Car has keyless start. Will not start in temps below 20 degrees f. Has happened 4x in 2 weeks. Car is 8 mos old / less than 6k miles. 1st 3 times eventually started by running engine. The warning lights that show are charging system (ran itself down to 57% battery this time); engine oil pressure and mil light. The immobilized indicator is on but then goes off. The tank is full of gas. The blue link app can't remotely start the car. It states that the request was not processed.

I bought my 2018 Sonata in January 2018. I have noticed that it tends to hesitate when making turns especially right turns. This problem occurs randomly when accelerating from stop or slow motion. Last week, I slowed down to take a near 90 degree left turn. The speed limit is 25 mph on this road. There was a vehicle in front of me - so, I maintained a safe speed and distance. After taking the turn, my car skidded very suddenly as I was coming out of the curve, and it was all I could do to correct it and prevent it from hitting a concrete pillar of the freeway passing above. The road appeared dry and the car in front of me did not have any problems. While I cannot rule out the presence of black ice, I was concerned that one of the wheel may have locked up either due to hardware or software problems. I took the car to the dealer today. The service department checked out car and they did not find any problems. I am reporting this incident since I noticed that some other owner complained of engine hesitation when taking turns. Perhaps, other owners may be experiencing similar issues.

The lane departure warning sound does not have adequate volume and there is no option or software adjustment to increase this volume according to Hyundai corporate or my local dealer service department. With increased age our hearing ability may be less than when we were younger, mixed in with fluctuating road noise, this safety feature may not inform (audible sound notification to low) a driver of lane departure at the early desired notification time. In my opinion, this non ability to adjust the volume up or down on the lane departure safety feature is a gross engineering failure.