Body problems of the 2015 Kia Motor Sedona

I got an oil leak and it was covered but it caused a coolant leak and the dealership wants to charge me for this when it should be covered . Also I went a couple of times for my door coming open while I am driving and they didn’t fix it .

The paint on our white kia Sedona is starting to flake off exposing the body underneath. Currently it is effecting the front edge of the hood and a much larger area is just under the rear windscreen. The paint in that area is blistering and delaminating at a rather rapid pace. At this point this vehicle is just over 9 years old. This latent defect is going to greatly devalue this vehicle and make it difficult to sell in the future.

Took our 2015 kia Sedona for an oil change and checkup due to the engine overheating multiple times. They did the oil change at about 96k miles and said nothing was wrong with the engine. That if anything were to happen then just bring it back in. We went on a trip to georgia from miami, we got stranded there because the engine again started overheating. We got the car back and took it to kia in doral. Service department stated that the head was damaged. Sales manager says it needed a new engine that would cost us 7500 to replace. We owe 7200 on the vehicle. That would put us at 14k dollars whenit was not our fault that the engine failed at 96k miles. The sales manager at doral kia promised that they would take care of the 7200 loan if we bought a new kia carnival once they arrive in the lot. We took our kia Sedona and left it there whilr we waited a week for the kia carnival to arrive. We finally get a call and we walk in to see it. Car states on window sticker msrp $36k. We wait for them to bring the financing paper work and they put the cars msrp at $51k. Very upsetting what we encountered. Turns out that the scammers will only pay our loan off if we pay their markup of $51k for the new van. After expressing how upset we were for having wated our time, rhey try to say that the only way they could sell the new kia carnival to us at msrp of $36k is if we pay the 7200 that we owe and we leave our kia Sedona to them as trade in for zero dollars. Need this issue resolved ASAP!.

In 2017 my Sedona was leaking water in the rear well. South austin kia accused my 135 lb dog of peeing in the rear well. He will not fit back there. After many attempts to get them to fix it and contacting corporate I was told "if I can prove it is leaking they will try to fix it". I went through a carwash climbed into the back and videotaped it. Took it back to kia of south austin and the recrimped the well. When I got my van back they had failed to reinstall the carpet and bolts. Two months ago I took my van to firestone for its oil change. 1000 miles into it my check engine light came on. We read the code and it came up no oil. We added oil, took it to firestone and there is no evidence of an oil leak. The check engine light stayed off until last night. It threw 138 codes. Never ever seen so many codes. I'm replacing this van in a couple of weeks. We are limping it. I get sever panic attacks thinking about going back to kia of south austin for the treatment that has occured.

The car odometer was about 120,000 highway miles. After run with the cruise control for about a 386 miles I stop the car in angola service station and been there for about 12 minutes with the car off the car got on fire. The electric system shut down immediately and the hood didn't open at all, rear doors didn't open electrical way just manually and the back door get completely sealed.

On 2015 model kia Sedonas the sliding door motors may become faulty and cause the sliding doors to not close all the way. When you push the button to close the door it gets almost closed and then makes a loud grinding noise followed by a beep in the cabin and a notification on the instrument cluster letting you know that the door did not fully close. If you drive with the door in this state it is not fully latched and presents a safety issue as the door could open while driving or in the case of impact. The TSB is attached to this case.

Sometimes, the driver side sliding door will not shut all the way. It makes a grinding / clicking sound and then opens back up automatically. This happens when the vehicle is stationary in park.

18v338000 recall / manufacturer recall numbersc175 NHTSA recall number19v109� door will not automatically open back up, has shut on my children. Front passenger airbag has electrical problem.

Rear sliding doors do not fully close and make loud grinding noise. The only way to shut them is to manually push it closed.

The power sliding door fails to lock properly at the rear of the door. This means that the door is not secured effectively. There are no warning signs on the dashboard that the door is not secure. The only sign is that a grinding/rubbing noise is made during the closing process and that it can be seen that the door is visibly not closed when viewed from outside the vehicle.

Neither of the rear sliding doors will fully close when engaged or activated by using the automatic door closures. You have to physically press the rear of the doors in order for them to engage the locking mechanisms.

Passenger side sliding door grinds when attempting electronic closure. Sometimes it doesnt close completely. On this occasion, door was completely closed, no door light on, and while driving on the highway the door electronically opened while at speed. Our 2 year old child was in his car seat on that side providing a life-threatening situation with the open door. Took it to the dealership and they said the motor needed to be replaced, but even if the motor was faulty, under no conditions should the door open while at speed. The manual specifically states that the door will not open when operating over 5mph, and yet, it did.

When my driver side sliding door closes the door makes a loud grinding sound and the sensor wont register that it is closed. The lights will stay on inside because the door is still "open" even though it looks closed. You have to physically push the back of the door until you hear a click, which I assume of a latch engaging. Or you can turn the power door off and close it manually. This has been going on consistently for about 6 months now.

Power sliding doors do not close all the way makes a grinding noise when it is closing the door does not latch when the door is suppose to be closed which in return does not allow the doors to lock.

Driver side passenger door fails to close, loud noise when attempting to latch, and alarms sound upon entering or exiting vehicle in a parked position. Automatic door needs to be turned off, then manually close door. May happen all the time or fail randomly.