Mazda CX-7 owners have reported 14 unknown or other related problems since 1996. Table 1 shows the 1 most common unknown or other problems. The number one most common problem is related to the vehicle's unknown or other (14 problems). For details of each of the problem category, use the links in the table.
| Problem Category | Number of Problems |
|---|---|
| Unknown Or Other problems |
Dealership maintained Cx-7 experienced major failure while driving. Engine died and major oil leak was noticed. Car had to be towed to the dealership. The dealership first indicated that there was some type of failure regarding the #3 cylinder. Dealership said that the probable cause of failure was due to turbo overheating. Later the dealership stated that the #4 piston failed and caused catastrophic damage to the engine. The cause of failure was never determined. The engine, turbocharger, thermostat, egr valve, intake manifold, starter and O2 sensor were replaced. Total cost of repairs (labor, parts, and misc charges) prior to tax was $10,557. 49. Prior to engine failure we informed the dealership that the check engine light was constantly on but stated that it was due to the gas cap not being properly put on. They never scanned the computer despite the car being under warranty. Additionally a ticking noise has been previously brought to the dealership's attention but was told that the engine noise was normal for this particular engine.
The ac compressor on the vehicle seized causing smoke and sparks to come off of the belt. The ac compressor and the belt both need to be replaced.
I was driving my car close to home and I was traveling at a speed of about 30 mph. I heard a few taps and then turned off the heating/air conditioning. As I pulled into my driveway, the noise resumed and a burning electrical smell started and actually the smell remained the entire night. I had it towed the next day to my local automotive repair place and as it currently stands the clutch burned up in the compressor and the car is not driveable. I called the dealership, russel, in baltimore and asked if there had been these problems and I was told no. I have since read many stories that are about the same.
I was traveling in valencia on the 5 freeway and the interior of my 2008 Mazda Cx-7 filled with smoke to the point where I found it difficult to drive. I pulled to the exit (magic mountain pkwy) and pulled to the side turning off the engine. After several minutes I lifted the hood to find that the engine was still smoking around the belt area. I was able to get the car to firestone newhall, CA where they are still looking at it. Very dangerous situation. The ac compressor seized causing the belt to fire and almost catch fire. After further research I have found that this is a common and dangerous problem with this make and model.
The driver's seat under welding which attaches the chair to the body of the car, under the seat, has become detached for no known reason. The front end of the driver's seat unit is no longer attached to the frame of the car yet the back end of the seat is still attached by the motor controls to the power seat. The driver's seat actually rocks back like a rocking chair lifting & moving the seat and backrest as one unit. The broken weld is actually visible when looking under the driver's seat. The motor to the power seat has been functioning but is deteriorating. The seatbelt cannot protect me from this defective seat, if I were rear-ended it would be likely that I, the driver, would be flung backwards into the back seat which could fatally injure one of my children.
2008 madza Cx-7 4 cyl turbo. I bought the car on July 05 2011 with 89k miles. The next day a/c compressor locked up. It's was fixed with a brand new compresssor, but blow semi cold and hot while on cold mode. A recall should be in order as americans are getting ripped off by madza.
After driving down the expressway the air conditioner stopped working. I brought it to the mechanic and was told the air compressor kit went out and it is $2,300 to fix.
Bought my 2007 Mazda cx7 with 76000 miles not even kidding but 12hrs later my motor mount and the vvt went out. A month later radiator cracked and now it had a bad oil leak and loud knockin noise it sounds like an old truck very bumbed out I have only had it for five months.
(March/2011) light came on around 65k miles. Took it into dealership and they said oil was low and yvt needed replacing. Cost was around 2500. No reason why oil was low and last changed by Mazda less than 7500 miles before. Also full service was done at that time. (June/2011)while on highway at high speeds the car lost acceleration, emittied high pitch whirring. And became difficult to control. Towed to dealership and it is being blamed on bad turbo. No reasoning behind failure other than saying oil change issues. The problem is that Mazda is the only entity that has ever worked on this car at least twice per year for check ups. There also appears to be others with same reported problems to both turbo and yvt.
The turbocharger on this new vehicle failed while I was driving on the expressway, causing the vehicle to be unsafe and inoperable. Fortunately, I was able to get it off the road without an accident. The vehicle was not safe to leave in our attached garage overnight because of the risk of fire. It appears that there have been many, and repeated, problems with the turbocharger in these vehicles. To my knowledge, there has not been a recall.
Another driver turned in front of me, failing to yield the right-of-way. I was doing the speed limit (45 mph) upon entering the intersection. When my Cx-7 made contact with the passenger side of her minivan, none of my airbags ever deployed. My shoulder, neck and hip (I still need surgery on all 3 areas) were injured in this accident.
Without warning the cabin of my Mazda Cx-7 filled with smoke and the powersteering went out. Apparently faulty ac compressor burned belts and knocked out powersteering. Mazda replaced compressor with new revised compressor.
My car is a 2008 Mazda Cx-7 and this summer I began to use the ac which never seems to cool off my car. It blow cold air but not very cold and I have to keep it at level 4 and push the other button that makes it blow harder. Which I think is the circulation button. I should not have to keep it on full blast and with the ac button and the one next to it depressed all the time to cool my car off. I don't think it is running correctly.
Timing valve replaced at 34,951 miles, then engine replaced at 41,060 miles on July 24, 2008.