general problems of the 2010 Mazda MAZDA3

The at light came on the dash, added transmission fluid because it was a little low but the light still has not gone off. I think there is an electrical problem within the transmission. It's had shifting issues since purchasing this vehicle. I also have a small child that comes with me to work and I do not want my car to catch on fire while we are in this vehicle.

Nhtsa complaint narrative I am filing this complaint regarding a 2010 Mazda 3, VIN [xxx] . The vehicle experiences intermittent transmission control failures, including difficulty shifting out of first gear and warning indicators triggered by vibration. The transmission and transmission control module have already been replaced. The dealership has identified the wiring harness as the cause of the remaining failure. Mazda north american operations has confirmed that the required wiring harness (bbm9-67-020h) is discontinued and unavailable. However, Mazda has not provided a written determination of whether the known wiring harness recall (engine wiring harness chafing affecting control systems) applies to this VIN, nor confirmed recall completion history. Mazda has advised the customer to seek aftermarket or salvage parts, but has not provided an approved repair remedy or goodwill assistance despite the issue affecting drivability and safety. I am requesting that NHTSA review whether Mazda has met its obligations regarding: 1. Recall applicability determination by VIN, and 2. Providing an adequate remedy when oem repair parts are no longer available for a safety-related defect. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

The a. B. S pump module is defective in these vehicles. There are tons of people having issues with them. When they fail it happens suddenly resulting in brake failure, power steering failure, the car does not like to shut off, the vehicle will go into "limp mode" and every light on the dash comes on. The part itself is costing close to $1000 u. S. D . With all of tge effected things tgat go with it I believe it can be very dangerous and should be recalled.

Tcm has failed to communicate in engine. Car doesn’t not shift properly or has hard shifts if it is able to get back into gear. Car may experience at engagement making it hard to steer and control vehicle. Can happen in the middle of driving. Independent service auto mechanic shop vehicle has no warning lights indicating failure until hard shift when driving 50miles per hour and engine would no longer speed up at light then came on. Once parked for two days check engine light came on and vehicle no longer would shift into gear.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated upon opening the driver's side door, she noticed that the front driver's side seat had independently moved closer to the steering wheel. The contact stated that the seat failed to move back to the original position after several attempts. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact was able to squeeze herself into the seat and drove to the dealer, who informed the contact that the driver's side seat bolts needed to be broken to move the seat. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 17v082000 (seats); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 61,000.

The transmission control module (tcm) has gone out on my car, causing it to shift to 2nd gear while doing 75mph with cars around me, and would no longer shift out of 2nd gear, or into reverse. It was an extremely dangerous situation that made me come very close to wrecking into a car, as well as the many cars behind me that had to emergency brake due to my rapid deceleration, especially without and brake lights coming on because it was engine braking. Doing a simple google search show that this is an extremely well-known problem effecting almost every Mazda 3 that used this tcm in 2010-2011. Any mechanic will tell you it's a known problem, and that it was due to where and how Mazda placed the computer, which causes it to overheat and fail without warning. I'm not sure why there has not been a recall on this issue with how prevalent it has been, and how easily recognized it is by mechanics. It is not a cheap fix, and can cause many other major issues leading up to requiring a full new transmission, if the problem did not already cause the car to wreck!.

Electrical system drains battery, have purchased several new batteries annually. With a new battery, the car while being driven, shut off, lost power steering and abs on road. Car has been parked since and battery drain still occurring while car is parked.

On multiple occasions the power steering goes out and warning light on dash comes on. Very hard to steer without the ps on. This has happened on highways as well as in town in traffic. Sometimes it comes back in a few seconds on its own. Other times the car must be turned off and restarted, if you can get to a safe place. No codes appear when checked.

Has I was driving my car home from work. Driving about 35mph I started to loose power and then the at, engine, tcs/dsc lights all came on. When I made it home I let it sit. While I looked into the issue on google later that evening I went back to see if my car was still having the issue. I placed the car in reverse and my car jumped/ jerked real hard. As I let go of the break I noticed my car didn't slowly move on its own like prior. I actually had to press the gas down quite a bit. My car revved up to 3 making a loud noise. The car had no power would hardly move. As I researched the problems and light issues it was kinda a surprise how easy it was to figure out what the issue was. Since this is a very very common issue found with the Mazda cars. So many people have this issue that when you order the part at over $600. 00 in the directions that is sent they actually recommend relocating the tcm to a different location using zipties. Went to have car codes read on my car informed the guy what I believed it to be and the most likely will be u0101 lost communication with tcm, and I was correct.

I believe that (recall campaign 0917b) safety recall applies to my 2010 Mazda3 gt, although it took over 2. 5 years to occur (August 2017) the complete fallouts didn't happen until now. . . (December 2020) initially, felt a pop in my back (from the frame?) while I was driving, pulled over and the seats moved fine so didn't think anything of. Meanwhile, a distinct rattling occurred intermittently behind me. Took the car to the local dealership (paid their special service diagnostic fee of ($165+) with �master technicians� who know about this seat recall, yet, found nothing wrong with the seat or even looked if you ask me, yet wanted me to correct the noise by by installing both front and rear new suspension (~$1000). Took the vehicle to a suspension specialist and found only one (1) part of the suspension that may have required correcting but was still in good condition. I asked if the remaining suspension components were safe and if they would need replacement. And they said�no� only one (1), and it was barely damaged, but I replaced it anyway. Took it back for an oil change since they were treating me honestly. Two days later, as I was leaving my work, the seat fell off the right rail as I was driving. In retrospect, the push nuts on the right side popped off and the driver's seat back frame has lost its integrity, so I sat askew. Unable to drive safely unless a piece of wood is holding the seat to the rail. Is it possible to still repair my car's driver's seat under the aforementioned safety recall? I don't feel safe driving and am without options at this time. Please help!!.

As soon as possible as you can do it so it can be fix and drive right and I you can come and get it and I need a rental car until my is fix.

The check engine light came on and the car began stalling as I drove on the freeway. It stalls and feels like it won't change gears. Took it to a shop and they kept telling me the computer code was not giving them any information and they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it.

At approximately 49,000 miles the left front passenger door lock actuator and latch started to fail. This causes the locks to lock and unlock repeatedly at all speeds. This happens randomly and is sometimes made worse depending on temperature or how bumpy the road is. I have narrowed it down to the connector on the actuator being loose and not always making a good connection. The issue causes all doors to lock and unlock or just stay unlocked while driving. I also have to keep the dome lights turned off because sometimes they would stay on. The computer was thinking that the door was open. I'm setting the date of it happening at the beginning of the month but it has been going on for some time now.

Everything need's to be repair on it ASAP as you can do it so the car can be fix.

There is a recall applicable to my vehicle which requires that engine mounts be stablilzed. It makes my car vibrate and the engine sounds loud while seated in the vehicle. I have taken my car to a couple of dealers and they say they don't have the required part. I was scared to drive my car. Because it was smoking from under the hood. I let it sit in my garage since 2008. I finally took it to a mechanic who told me that the engine had caused a hole in the coolant tank and it was leaking coolant. That's why it overheated. The car runs fine now, but needs to have the engine mount put in. What do I do now? in addition, my driver side window will not operate. I thought this was a fuse issue, but another Mazda 3 owner told me they have the same issue.

Engine stalls due to vibration while driving. There was a recall for this exact problem, but Mazda isnt honoring without me paying for repais first. As I was turning in front of an 18 wheeler dash lights came on and I temporarily lost power. Shut off and back on again.

I've scheduled the recall repairs three times ,with three different Mazda dealerships, since June 2018, when my hatchback smashed against my head (pictures attached). Each time a day or two before the scheduled recall repairs each dealership had called and canceled the recall repairs with no availability on a reschedule date available. This is completely unacceptable. I attempted to reschedule the recall repairs today August 21,2019 , there is no dates available at any Mazda dealerships within 100 miles of my location for more than one year from now. So in my opinion this is Mazda completely failing to complete a timely repair on Mazda recalls.

The 12v power charging port started on fire. It was speaking flames when charger was plugged in to charging port. It started doing this while in motion and stationary.

After turning on the car and shifting it into drive, the car accelerated at about 20 mph without a foot on the gas.

At light and check engine light are on. Car has shift issue. It can't go higher speed even I push the gas pedal. It has clutch sound every time I shift the gear stick. My car is automatic transmission. It happens right after I start the car. And the issue contines all the time.

One of the two electricals broke loose that's connected to the battery that starts the car. My car literally stalled out on me in the middle of an intersection. I was almost hit because of that. Another issue is my right back tire. One of the lug nuts won't come off and that is a safety issue. If something happens to my tire, I'm not going to be able to get a new tire to replace the old one. Another issue is the light on the ceiling of my car broke. The wires are exposed. My dashboard in my car is also melting.

I have two remotes for the car. They both work just fine until last week. One key wouldn't start the car the security lock symbol show up. The dashboard light up the radio turn on the air conditioner as well. But it would not start the car. I would have insert the other key to turn on the car. Then a few days later the other key wouldn't work. It's does the as the other key. I have to carry both sets just in case one would work.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda 3. While driving various speeds, the radio activated independently. The radio turned on and off when the brake pedal was depressed. In addition, the windows failed to work intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.

The radio volume control can not turn off. If click the volume knob to turn off, the volume become 10 times louder. When the radio volume is at "on" state, only left door bose has sound. When the radio volume is at "off" state, the sound level is 10 times louder in left rear bose speaker. Some times, when radio is on, it could automatically jump to 10 times louder by itself.

Driver's side window has fallen off track and does not close as it should. Further, when you remove your finger from the automatic "up" button, the window will automatically roll down after releasing the button (as if it has a life of it's own). This is a window motor or electrical problem. This can happen when the vehicle is moving or when it is stationary . . . City or highway.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda 3. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The VIN was not included in NHTSA campaign number: 09v126000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 82,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda 3. The contact stated that there was an electrical short or malfunction in which the gauges, sensors, and warning lamps flickered on the instrument panel. The contact also noticed the radio was shorting intermittently. Later, the vehicle hesitated and stalled. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the technician was not able to replicate or diagnose the failure. The contact continued to experience the failures and the vehicle stalled more than five times without warning. The contact was able to restart the vehicle each time. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable.

Moisture has entered both head lamps causing failure of bulbs and hid control units. Complete lighting failure while driving.

Tl- the contact owns a 2010 Mazda 3. The contact stated that the dashboard had a sticky residue or film that was building up and that as the falure progressed, the dashboard was deteriorating. The contact also experienced a failure with the drivers side seatbelt buckle in which it was difficult to unbuckle. The contact had to make numerous attempts to unlock the buckle. The cigarette lighter deteriorated and caused the contacts charger to be stuck and it was unable to be removed. There was some sort of an electrical malfunction near the console of the cigarette lighter. The vehicle was not inspected an diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 65,000. Dyd.

Mazda has issues with condensation in front lights and real lights leading to excessive water building up in light cavity. The water restricts light and has shorted out headlight bulb on several occasions as I drove down the road. This causes a serious issue at night as I am driving. Mazda and dealer refuse to fix sighting bulletin from Mazda that this is a known problem and not to fix unless light enclosure is full of water.

I am the original owner of this vehicle, purchased brand new. In January 2010. The heater when turning on, made a loud clicking sound for approx. 20- 30 seconds, each time. Upon research on the internet, local mechanics, I found out the heater blend door actuator is the problem. I was going to replace it, but upon further investigation I found that this heater assembly is not only used by Mazda, Nissan, Toyota, chevy, Ford, and Lexus. This is heater is known to have this design error. Also the dealer had unplugged the heater blend door actuator because this unit is known to start a fire in the vehicle. This made me extremely nervous. I consider this to be an unsafe vehicle.