Vehicle Speed Control Problems of Mazda MAZDA6 - part 1

The car had a (sua) sudden unintended acceleration malfunction. No, the car was totaled and towed away. My safety was put at risk as I was slowly pulling into a parking spot, eased my foot onto the brake and this malfunction caused my car to involuntarily jolt into a rampant high speed. It jumped a curb and crashed into a tree. My brake was useless in stopping this runaway vehicle. The only thing that stopped it was that tree! the airbag deployed and I was badly bruised from the airbag. Fortunately, there were no pedestrians or other cars near mine. There were no warning lights or messages before, during or after the accident. It happened so quickly because the tree was only a few feet in front of my car.

See all problems of the 2014 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

When driving, after a period of 10 - 20 minutes usually, of the adaptive cruise being on (not necessarily in use), the buttons on the steering wheel will re-map. That is, the + button for adjusting the cruise speed up by 1 mph increments will switch with the - button that adjusts the cruise speed down by 1 mph increments. This happens reliably. . . If I've driven the car with adaptive cruise on for more that 10 - 20 minutes, the buttons will re-map. + slows the car down or doesn't work at all (does nothing). - speeds the car up. Also, rarely, the cancel button will speed the car up. Often the cancel button will not work and the only way to disengage the adaptive cruise is to tap on the brake pedal. Less frequently--maybe about 1/3 - 1/2 of the time, the "off" button, which turns the adaptive cruise off entirely, will not work. Note, that this is not the "engage" or "enable" button. These are the buttons that just turn on and off the adaptive cruise and show that it is now ready to be set if on. I discussed this with the dealer. I believe it is a software problem, they cannot find a software problem as they patched the software in the car up to the latest version. They want to replace the steering wheel where the switches are. This is a $750 repair. (I'm not sure if it's the whole steering wheel or the switch cluster on the wheel. ) I cannot afford it and I'm not convinced it will work. I believe they are just guessing at a solution. Nothing to my knowledge has ever spilled on the steering wheel to potentially damage the switchgear. Also, this, to me, does not explain how it always works correctly for the first 10 - 20 minutes of driving, then fails reliably after that. This problem has existed for over two years. Since the car has had about 100,000 miles on it.

See all problems of the 2016 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

I was braking to a stop after decellerating, driving originally about 45 mph. Traffic was stopped in front of me. I was in motion on a highway, going straight ahead. My car slowed but resisted stopping. I pressed on the brake pedal harder until I came to a complete stop. My right foot was entirely on the brake, as I only use my right foot to operate the pedals. The engine was revving like it was accellerating. The car was in drive. No warning lights came on the dash. The engine continued to rev higher in intensity. I put the car into park, and the engine revved much higher. I pushed the start/stop button to turn off the car. The warning lights came on the dash. I was able to roll down the power window even though the car was turned off. I tried to restart the car after about a minute. The starter engaged, but the car did not start. I tried twice again and it did the same thing. I tried a fourth time and it reacted as if the battery was almost dead, some sound but no movement. I couldn't put the car in neutral to have the attending police officer push it out of the lane of traffic, and we noticed the emergency brake was engaged. I did not engage the emergency brake myself! my husband arrived, and he and the officer were able to put the car in neutral, however, they were unable to disengage the emergency brake. The car had to be loaded onto a roll-off wrecker to be taken to the dealership.

I've had issues with my car whenever I put gas in it. My car won't start up or cut off whenever I put gas in it. I've also had issues with the acceleration because of this.

See all problems of the 2006 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

I bought this car 2009 from mechanic 2 weeks ago I run for 100miles for to and from work only. After suddenly at light came so I went to check nearest auto parts stores with code reader for diagnostic & he said there might be a transmission problems. After I am ablt to start engine but car won't drive in d mode but r can work with jerk and horse power go up to 5000 up. So I am going to see with hayes Mazda in kalamazoo. Therefore, please take a serious action or investigation into this matter.

See all problems of the 2009 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

Was in an accident which resulted in a lockup of vehicle and side collision with battery failure.

2003 Mazda6 model cars were built with faulty throttle bodies. Unaware of this, I bought one of these vehicles and immediately began experiencing issues with it. When driving very slowly, under 15 mph, the car will suddenly throttle, accelerating it in bursts even when applying the brakes. That issue is problematic but relatively minor; however, there is a much more dangerous issue the faulty throttle body creates. When driving at any speed, the faulty throttle body can cause the engine to cut out without warning. My wife was driving with our kids in the car the first time we had the engine cut out while driving (soon after purchasing the car). Luckily, she was driving in a residential area at 25 mph. The engine has cut out on me while driving 65 mph on the freeway. I was forced to coast through freeway traffic to the shoulder in order to stop the car and restart the engine. The engine has cut out, without warning, at several speeds. There is no rhyme to when it will cut out and no indication it's going to cut out ahead of time. I spent over $500 trying to solve the problem with mechanics unsure what was wrong. Then a mechanic happened to have an old service bulletin (sb), dated 5/18/2006, from Mazda that stated throttle bodies with the markings aa, ab, or ba at the end of their serial numbers (as is the case with the one in my car) are "no good". Because the part is labeled "no good" under Mazda letterhead, I figured there must have been a recall issued before I owned the car that the previous owner somehow missed. I took the car in to a Mazda dealership where I was assured no recall has ever been issued on the part and in order to replace it, the cost will be over $1,000. A recall must be made on this extremely dangerous and faulty, by Mazda's own admission, part before unsuspecting people are injured or killed, if that hasn't happened already.

See all problems of the 2003 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

The car has very serious issues with the transmission. When driving it jerks violently when switching gears from 2nd to 3rd gear and some times to the 4th gear. The dashboard some times shows the car has switched to the 3rd gear while the car is still revving abnormally high in 2nd gear. The transmission has some very serious and potentially deadly issues. This issues tend to occur frequently when accelerating from a stop. (the car's acceleration is very weak, I don't know if this is related to the issue or not ).

See all problems of the 2007 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

Repeated throttle body issues, car while driving will drop to a crawl with erratic revving. Did this in the middle of the express way, nearly causing an accident, had to be towed away. Will not start do to revving loop caused by throttle body. Multiple TSB have been issued for this problem, so it seems the throttle body issues plague many customers.

See all problems of the 2004 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2005 Mazda 6. While driving 35 mph, the vehicle independently accelerated without warning. The brake pedal was depressed to the floor, but the vehicle failed to respond. The contact mentioned that the vehicle accelerated up to 50 mph and stopped after the emergency brake was engaged and the ignition key was removed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact also received notification of NHTSA campaign numbers: 15v345000 (air bags), 15v382000 (air bags), 15v869000 (air bags), and 16v354000 (air bags) and stated that the parts needed for the repairs were not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repairs. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 200,000. VIN tool confirms parts not available.

See all problems of the 2005 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

The contact owns a 2014 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while attempting to park, the vehicle lunged forward and crashed into a pole as an unknown warning light illuminated. A police report was not filed and no injuries were sustained. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 39,000.

The contact owns a 2015 Mazda 6. While driving 5 mph and making a turn, the vehicle failed to respond when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The contact gradually applied force to the accelerator pedal and the vehicle accelerated in excess independently. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 55.

See all problems of the 2015 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

My vehicle has been having an issue with the throttle position sensor. As well as the pcm, usually connected as noted by my mechanic. 3 things can come from this he said. I could be having an issue with the gas pedal, the computer, or I need a new throttle body. From my understanding so far the issue causes the computer to incorrectly read, causing the check engine light as well as a few others to abruptly turn on while car is in full motion, for me this is typically at 55 mph. The car then looses the ability to properly accelerate, or decelerate. I have to quickly pull my car to the shoulder, put in park while the car seems to be lurching forward, and turn off the engine. If I do not do this quick enough the engine begins to rev high and low continuously. My rpm gauge bounces around as it is doing so. After leaving the car off for a few moments I can then restart. My check engine light will now stay on for about 50 miles and turn itself off. Once the light has gone off usually withing 15 miles my car will do it all over again. After calling my dealer, because I still owe 2 more years of payment on the car, I am told that they can fix it if I have my warranty intact. Unfortunately it has run out as of July. The part alone from the dealership is $700. Why is there no recall on this issue if so many people are having it?.

I was driving with my 7 year old in my 2005 Mazda 6 when I noticed the car was accelerating on its own just a litle bit. I didnt think much of it at the time. About 2 minutes later the rpms went up and down 3 times( 1000 rpms each time). Immediatley after that, my brakes stopped working while I was going about 35 mph. I had the brake pedal floored and it barely stopped in time. I managed to stop with my emergency brake and put on my hazard lights for a few minutes while the car was still running. I had to get out of the road so I attempted to reverse very slowly and the brakes were suddenly working. I pulled the car in a parking lot with no brake problems and got it towed to a shop. The shop is telling me they are not finding any problems but I dont feel safe in the car without an answer! im worried it may happen again and cause an accident next time.

Was at a stop sign to make a left turn half way thru the car stalled and all lights came on, vehicle behind me almost ran into us. Barely got pulled over to the side of the road had to turn car off and then back on the check engine light remained on but vehicle would drive, after about 5 starts the light came off had the car checked, was told it was the throttle body. One week later same thing wet to pull onto a busy street and car stalled almost causing another wreck, tried to drive it home and stopped at the grocery store, when I went to pull in the car stalled again in the middle of the street, blocking on coming traffic. Called Mazda to see how much it would cost to be fixed, the lady told me that if it was still under warranty it would be free but that expired in 2011. I have seen many of the same complaints about this, Mazda has admitted to it being a problem but has not recalled it. We have two kids and thank god nothing serious has happened with us in the car. This problem could very easily cause injury or deaths to any drivers on the road.

The contact owns a 2007 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled and the check engine warning lamp illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician diagnosed that the throttle body was defective and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown and the current mileage was 183,000.

Car just unexpectedly down shifts from 4th to 3rd gear. . Transmission revs . Have to stop the car. Can not take interstate because it may cause a wreck. . Alternator ligjt and check engine ligh comes on. . Have to turn the car off and restart the car to reset gears. .

Driving normally, transmission gets struck in 1st, 2nd, 3rd or fourth gear. Sometimes transmission will downshift very, very hard.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle accelerated on its own. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician was unable to duplicate the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 17,000 and the current mileage was 25,000. . . Updated 03/07/14.

See all problems of the 2010 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

My drivers side front headlight issue first began about 50k miles (oct. 2012). The headlight went out and I went to replace the bulb but it wouldn't turn on. My mechanic fixed the brakes around the same time and took around the block, went over a bump and the bulb came back on. I've had issue ever since. Usually I can give it a little tap and it will come back on. Not this time! ive replaced the bulb twice since 2013, it's at 80,555 miles now and it won't come back on at all! there should be a recall, for I've searched the interent and found many Mazda 6's in many model years that have this same issue. My drivers seat belt just began getting stuck at 80,300 miles. The day before father's day was the first time it happened. (June 20, 2015). I went to target and I couldn't get out of my seatbelt when I turned the car off. I jiggled it and pushed on it repeatedly until I heard it click again and it finally released. This is incredibly unsafe and I have to be very careful how I put my seatbelt on until I hear the "right click" or it won't let me out. My cruise went out on my way back from ok in Aug. 2013, right around 65,000 miles I believe. I was coming up on the CA border and had to stop for inspection and as I slowed down, my car began lunging forward despite the fact that I applied the brakes. I turned it off and back on and it stopped until I used the cruise again. Then it'd lunge again when I'd slow down or attempt to stop. I called my friend and he said to stop using the cruise. The problem has not continued, but I also haven't used the cruise since 2013. My car doesn't even have 100k miles and I bought it new. I've maintained it and it still had other issues. The keyless entry, bose 6 disc, alternator and thermostat have all malfunctioned! the lights on the radio display don't light properly and the headliner falls down despite my best efforts to fix it.

I was driving on the interstate in GA going a little over 70mph in the fast lane and all of a sudden it kicked in to limp mode to about 10mph. I almost had a semi rear end me but was lucky enough to get out of the way just in time. I could turn the car off and it would reset it for awhile and then do it again. Then it finally got to the point it was doing it way too much. It turned out to be the throttle body. I learned that they know about it but wont recall it. Its been sitting for a year because they want $900. 00 to fix it. I feel like I should drive it and let somebody hit me just to make it a recall so all the 1000s if not 10 of thousands of people who have the same problem will be able to get it fixed. Clearly that is a huge safety issue and should be a recall.

My battery on my 2004 Mazda 6 went out and I had to jump start it to. Go to work and come from work one day. The next day I took my battery to get checked to see what the issue was and they told me my battery was completely dead and it had only 6 months of usage. I put a new battery in my vehicle and as I installed the new battery I unplugged it to see if my alternator would kick in to make sure it was working correctly and as I put the battery back on a shortage happens and my wipers came on at full speed and all my lights were blinking on my dash and a smell of electrical wires burning started to happen and the entire electrical system has messed up. Turn signal lights don't work,headlights, bose stereo,hazard lights,reverse lights truck don't open windows don't go up or down and while I drive the speedometer does not track the velocity the needle goes crazy and my e-brake light is on and track control light is blinking and the air bag lights come on all the time . I do not know where to start to fix this issue but I'm really disappointed in this because I just have 8 months with my vehicle from a dealer ship and they checked out car just fine. This is going to be a super high cost to repair all the damages. Just from a change of a battery. And to top it all thank god I wasn't in the car because their was a small fire in the wires but it went away quick.

While driving home the car seemed to have lost all power, but was still running. I was able to coast to my house but then tried to stop and the car surged. I had to pull the emergency brake to stop. I was quite shaken at that point. The engine light came on. I was able to drive it back to town to have the car checked, no error codes showed up on the computer. The engine light did go off, the car ran fine for about 3 months then proceeded to do the same thing. The car lost power but I was able to coast to my place of work. However even though there seemed to be no power again when I tried to brake the car surged and the car almost jumped the curb, which would have put me in my office. I again had the vehicle checked, no errors. After researching it seems this may be due to the automatic throttle sensor. Question with all the complaints, cars stalling at high speeds and the surging of vehicles why is there no recall. You recall for a stupid lights, over spraying of a clear coat, but no recall on something that is putting people in danger?? I don't understand.

When accelerating or climbing enough to invoke a downshift, the transmission occasionally slips or disengages causing very high rpm, followed by a sudden downshift and very hard jerk. It almost feels like being hit from behind. This failure poses an extreme rear end collision hazard. Mazda has issued TSB 05-016/06 to deal with this problem but my dealer informed me that Mazda now recommends a complete transmission change in lieu of a valve body change recommended by the TSB. This transmission should be recalled, it's unsafe.

Traveling at speeds of 30-60 mph during any type of traffic (stop and go, freeway speeds, etc), my 2003 Mazda6 will suddenly go into a "safe or limp" mode characterized by abrupt loss of power with no ability to accelerate. The rpms drop to between 1000 and 1300 and fluctuate quickly between the two numbers. I have had to quickly press the clutch, turn the car off and back on to regain normal function. When taken to a mechanic, the root cause was determined to be a defective throttle body. Upon more research (including this site), this does not appear to be an uncommon issue for this model of Mazda.

The vehicle acceleration cuts off and the dash board lights are all on. You will have to shut off the car and turn it back on before it will work correctly. Dealer said their diagnostic did not show any throttle sensor errors but my scan tool did.

Traveling at freeway speeds in CA on the san francisco bay bridge during evening traffic, my 2003 Mazda6 suddenly went into "safe or limp" mode. This caused abrupt loss of power with no ability to accelerate, which almost caused a multi vehicle accident. When taken to a mechanic, the root cause was a code dtc p2135 for a defective throttle body. Mazda admits 3 (three) versions of their throttle body for that vehicle defective with automatic discard if there is a mil with dtc p2135(per technical service bulletin no. 01-016/06 issued 05/18/2006 by Mazda north american operations), and throttle body markings "aa","ab","ba". Mine is an "aa". Obviously Mazda admits that these are defective, but only replaced them under warranty and my vehicle is not under warranty any longer. They call the new part an "upgraded version". My vehicle has done this (safe mode) several times, so now it is parked until I can get it fixed (quoted price for repair is $714 from Mazda dealer). These incidents creates an extremely dangerous situation and I feel very lucky that I was not involved in an accident when this happened to me, and luckily no one was injured, it could have been a very dangerous situation. I feel Mazda has made a technical service bulletin admitting that this part is defective and it can cause danger and possibly loss of life. Mazda needs to be forced to make a recall and replace these parts at no cost to the consumer. Defective part - throttle body with markings "aa", "ab", "ba" mine is "aa".

Over a period of 1-1/2 hours, our 2003 Mazda 6 quickly lost all acceleration power on 5 different occasions while driving out of town on the highway. Following a 'slight bump' the car went from 70 mph to 35 mph to 10 mph, quickly, regardless of pressure applied to the accelerator. Getting to the side of the road in traffic going 70mph+ was in itself a challenge and after pulling to a complete stop the car began jerking fiercely. Only turning off the engine completely was the system 'reset'. The Mazda dealership hooked it up and determined the throttle body must be replaced for a quoted cost of $534. 41 (macon, GA). The sensor itself, the likely culprit for this issue, is not offered or available for sale by Mazda without its 'body', unlike countless other makes, which is outrageous, but the most disgusting part of this issue is that although there are a critical number of complaints logged about this issue, the tps has not been listed as a recall. The dealership stated they did not have to replace it since there were only 'service bulletins' listed and no actual recalls for the parts. They are very aware of the situation. From my own experience and my daughter's with this issue, I can guarantee that this has definitely caused serious injuries, if not fatalities, that just haven't been reported or possibly identified. I will continue to hunt down the sensor as I will not fall prey to Mazda's 'racket'. The car will sit until I locate the part, or end up being parted out.

While driving home from my chardon, OH office on either Aug 5 or 6, 2009 at 35 mph my car's rpm needle started jumping and the car's "gas pressure" felt like it was hicupping. The rpm needle jumped from @2 to 4 twice, then the car started steadily accelerating in speed. The brake pedal at this time felt "hard" and the car was "fighting against my attempt to slow down" and the rpm's were still trying to accelerate. I imagine if I pushed on the brake and the gas pedal at the same time, it would simulate the way it felt. I also have a manual shift mode on my car and used it to more effectively slow down (vs using the brake) but at the same time the car was still trying to accelerate, but couldn't because I was in a lower gear/manual mode. And I remember while in manual gear 1, my car was lurching me back and forth in my seat as I drove through my neighborhood to get home, and my foot was off the gas pedal! on Aug 12th, 2009 I mentioned this event to a Mitsubishi dealer's mechanic (friend of my father) who was replacing my power steering line, he took a look at my car but said it seemed fine. My husband has been driving that car since that event, because I am afraid of it happening again. The car has not done this while my husband has been driving it. Not to sound like an oddball, but if I didn't know better I would have said my car was acting possessed, like the movie "christine". I have to think that there is some correlation to what my car did and what is going on with Toyota. My husband is an electrical engineer and he used to work for grob systems, who does engineering for multiple automobile manufacturers, and I wonder if Mazda has some same system in their automobile's as Toyota and if it was engineered by the same supplier. I would swear on a bible that this happened to me with my car. (my husband left grob to move to cleveland and marry me). It sucks having this car now, it is paid off, I'm afraid to drive it, and I don't want to sell to an innocent stranger.

The contact owns a 2003 Mazda 6. While driving approximately 20 mph, the contact applied pressure to the brake pedal several times before the vehicle slowed down. The vehicle accelerated without the accelerator pedal being depressed. There were no warning indicators illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and it was concluded that the failure was related to a defective throttle; however, the vehicle began operating normally after the diagnosis. The technician recommended that the vehicle be taken to an authorized dealer. The VIN was unknown. The failure and current mileages were 81,000. Updated 10/16/08.

The issue has been ongoing, but originally started in the summer of 2008 (car had roughly about 42,000 or so miles on it). Initially the car would increase the rpm up to 7000r in 5th gear (going to 6th) and then decrease causing it to do a hard jerk (someone else described it as being rear ended and that's exactly what it feels like). I took my car to the Mazda dealership in marlow heights, MD (while it was still under warranty) and the service person and I went for a drive (I was driving) he told me that he didn't notice anything off about it so I went back home. Fast forward to 2013 (the problem persisted through the entire time) when I took the car the the arlington Mazda dealership. This is where they did a test drive on it and came to the conclusion that my car's transmission is going bad (the car had about 49,604 or so miles on it). To date, the vehicle (which now has 58,360 miles on it) has trouble picking up speed is extremely laggy and in 5th to 6th gear will pull a hard jerk before it catches up with itself. I agree with the other owners who have this problem. Mazda needs to recall and replace the transmission because there's clearly a safety issue. After all, if another vehicle is following too closely behind the vehicle(s) having this issue they are going to undoubtedly be involved in a serious collision and there probably will be a fatality. Please note: I included the mileage the car has so that those considering purchasing this car will know they may not have long to enjoy it before they have a really dangerous and expensive problem on their hands.

The contact owns a 2006 Mazda 6. While stopped at a traffic light the vehicle accelerated without warning striking another vehicle. There was damage to the front bumper and the headlights however there were no injuries. The road conditions were dry. The vehicle was drive-able. The dealer has not diagnosed the vehicle. The current and failure mileage was 30,000. The engine size was unavailable.

: the contact stated that the vehicle accelerated on its own and on many occasions while driving 55 mph. This occurred even while applying the brakes. On one occasion, the vehicle almost hit a pedestrian. On another occasion, the vehicle ran through a red light. The vehicle was taken to the dealers who determined the problem was pertaining to the throttle body. The vehicle was repair however the problem persists.

2005 grand touring gets stuck in gear while driving. The vehicle became stuck in gear three time while driving on the freeway. The consumer took her foot off the accelerator yet the vehicle continued to move at 60 mph. The consumer pressed the brake pedal but the vehicle continued at 60 mph. The consumer put the car in manual 6 speed and the vehicle bucked then worked normally. As soon as the vehicle was put back into automatic mode the gears became stuck. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but they were unable to duplicate the problem. The consumer noticed condensation on the inside bottom of the windshield. The check engine light illuminated due to failed throttle body. The radio experienced problems. The left rear wheel was bent and caused vibration while driving.

Vehicle throttle is slow to respond (delay) when pressing accelerator during low speed attempts to accelerate. Happens regularly when under 10 mph.