general problems of the 2010 Nissan Altima

Driving on i95 from gatlinburg my car started make a horrible whining noisie, shuck it's has done before just not this bad, it has before but I didn't think much of it and just stopped and let it sit and it stopped . Now it happens everyttime I get in the car. Or that I have to beg it go when it's in gear, when I pull out I'd doesn't go. I've notice if I slam it from to park forcefully to drive it seems to work fine until the whining and jerking start. I know this is a tranny issue and I I know it's warranty rorb10 yrs or 120000 miles I'm at 102! and I can't drive this car please help!!!.

The contact owns a 2010 Nissan Altima. The contact stated that the brake pedal was depressed and it went to the floorboard and remained jammed. As a result, the vehicle was not able to be driven. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 127,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Nissan Altima. The contact stated that the entire dashboard was sticky and had cracks. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. In addition, the brake warning indicator illuminated inadvertently. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 28,000.

Over the years ived had multiple problems with the branke and engine of my 2010 Altima. The panel lights up but the engine does not crank. Pushing the ignition button only locks the brake. No warning signals either the car just dies on you ived paid over 700 everytime it needs repair, im very frustrated with my car and will never buy another Nissan vehicle.

My 19 year old daughter was driving her car down the road when it stopped accelerating acting as if the brakes were applied. She could not get the car to go above 25 miles an hour. She was able to pull into a parking lot and wait for her dad to come and help her. When her dad got there the car was sluggish and would not accelerate because it felt like the brakes were being applied. He switched the car to manual and was able to get it home. The abs, vdc off, slip lights all came on. The next day all lights were off and the car drove normally. This happened two more times intermittently at which time we took it into our mechanic. He discovered a power brake booster needed replacing. He believed this was a safety recall as it had been a recall on the 2007, 2008 and 2009 Nissan Altima. Much to our dismay Nissan has not issued a recall for this safety issue for the 2010 models. My mechanic told us this was definitely a safety issue that should be addressed by Nissan.

When I tried to start the cay with the push button start it would not respond. I tested the battery which is only 1 year old and is in good condition. I took it to the dealership (Nissan legacy) who reported that there was an issue with the brake switch and harness which need to be replaced. I have ready online that there were multiple incidents with this happening to this make and model.

The car failed to start because the brake switch and the entire harness sub failed. I had to tow away the car to the nearest Nissan showroom and was charged $440 to replace harness-sub, switch assy sto, band hose plus labour. This is a known problem but Nissan wont refund my money. How can a vehicle just under 50k fail for such a thing if not for a bad factory harness.

Several times over the past few months and everyday for the past week, the car will not start during ignition due to the inability to depress the brake. The only way to get it to start is to repeatedly hit the brakes while pressing the start button. It never consistently works but eventually starts. After starting, the abs, vdc, and slip warning lights are illuminated. There have been multiple reports of the same thing happening with this model from other owners. This poses a serious risk to health particularly in times where one may need to leave immediately. More often, it is an extreme inconvenience. The dealership service departments want to charge over $500 to repair something that is clearly defective and systematic. Please do something about this as many Altima owners are experiencing the same frustration that I have endured.

I have read numerous accounts of the Nissan Altima being unable to start when the required brake/start button is used. I am having the same problem. When the brake is applied and the start button pushed, the acc light comes on then, if pushed again, the on light comes on (over the start button). Then when pushed again, the system shuts off. By trying several times and pumping the brake, the car will eventually start. Since this has been reported numerous times, there is obviously a defect in the car's parts/system. There should be a recall to have Nissan replace the faulty parts free of charge.

Norfolk, virginia - my 2010 Nissan Altima with push button start failed to start. All other electrical seemed fine. I had just previously noticed the abs, vdc and slip warning lit while driving. After checking fuses, key fob batteries, etc. I attempted to pump the brakes several times and it finally started. Drove immediately to the dealer where I was told it was the brake lamp switch and harness which must be replaced at a cost of $550. 00. He seemed to know with out of even looking what the problem was. When I questioned him about such an expensive switch, he only said "this happens a lot with this model. " this should be recalled and fixed at Nissan's expense.

As approaching a stop light, brakes were difficult to "grab" and too extra pressure. Stop was rather slow, and anti-lock brakes appeared to kick in (by rough, staccato shaking typical of them applying). Only by pressing down as hard as I could did I prevent smashing into the car ahead of me. Dry, sunny florida conditions, no sand or slipping at all, just slow, odd braking. Then the engine seemed to be revving a bit - faster idling than normal while at the stop light. We are not talking about speeding here, or sudden braking, just a normal approach to a known stop sign or light. This is a serious safety issue. This happened a couple times, then did not repeat for a couple months. Then, when it did repeat, I asked the dealer about it. Always at a stop light or stop sign, always in danger of smashing into the car ahead of me or entering too far into the intersection if I could not control the stop. They were completely puzzled, and could not duplicate it because, as I said, it is very sporadic. An ispection did not reveal anything. They laughed at me, saying it was totally impossible for the anti-lock brakes to kick in if there is no skidding. Ok, so what was it then? it sure as heck seemed like anti-lock brakes! (I come from up north and have experienced anti-lock brakes kicking in on snow covered roads. . . ) since the initial reoccurrence, it went several months, about six, with no issues or repeats, then just the other day, it did it again twice more. I suspect it could be something to do with computer controls, rather than the brakes themselves, but I am no mechanic.

If I have to pump the brakes to get the car started, will I soon have to pump the brakes to stop?????? vehicle not recognize the key. Happened several times prior to 6/15/2013. Just thought the key needed to be charged. But on this date I pull up at a hotel, checked in and went to move the car and it wouldn't start. Sat for an hour or two. Replaced battery a few weeks prior so it wasn't that. Had to be towed to a pepboys. Too late for a dealership, a Saturday evening, and I was over 5 hours from home. The car was dropped off across from the bays therefore they were unable to connect the diagnostic machine. After setting for a couple more hours it finally crank. They said it was the starter, as of today I have not replaced the starter. In August it did it again twice while my 16 yr was driving it to school. A couple of times in September. I took it to the dealer on 10/14/2013, their diagnosis were: replace brake sw, sub harness, and tie straps. And now almost on a daily basis want start without pumping the brakes. I'm the only one that drives the car now because I'm afraid of the brakes eventually giving out.

The contact owns a 2010 Nissan Altima. After the push to start button was installed, the vehicle would not restart after being driven after approximately 15 minutes. The contact mentioned that the vds, slip, and brake warning indicators illuminated. When attempting to depress the brake pedal in order to start the vehicle, the brake pedal was almost impossible to depress. The failure occurred multiple times. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and the technician stated that the brake switch was defective, which prevented the vehicle from starting. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 20,000.

I was driving normal speed limit 60 mph on the fwy when we heard a noise like a big pop sound. Right away when I tried to slow down to get over ( when I applied the brake) the steering wheel began shaking so bad that I was unable to control the wheel. It felt as if the brakes werent working. The car spun out of control and crashed in the carpool divider. This was a brand new Nissan Altima 2010 coupe with 60k miles on the car. We did not hit anything at the time or even before the accident occured, all parts on the car was brand new. I remembered that the more that I tried to apply the brakes the steering wheel shock harder and harder to where I was unable to even control it.

Last week I rented a Nissan Altima from hertz. This was the first time that I had driven this car. There is a design problem with the location of the brake pedal and spacing between the accelerator. I wear a size 10 shoe and the edge of my shoe kept getting caught on the edge of the brake pedal when I moved my foot to apply the brake. I narrowly escaped several accidents as a result of this. There is no space between these 2 pedals!.

The contact owns a 2010 Nissan Altima. The contact stated that while driving 30 mph, the brakes and transmission failed. There were no lights illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact stated that she depressed the brake pedal, but the brakes seized and the vehicle slid and experienced an increased stopping distance. The contact stated that once that happened, the transmission failed. The contact restarted the vehicle and the vehicle functioned normally. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer for inspection and they stated that they could not duplicate the failure. The were unable to determine the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was notified and they did not respond. The failure mileage was 3,000. The VIN was unavailable.