Vehicle Speed Control Problems of Subaru Impreza Wrx

Car all the sudden stall/ lock up tires at high way speeds due to sudden no warning engine failure causing a massive safety concern my car locked up during a normal drive up a slowly passing a semi when my car died no power steering no engine power transmission locking due engine failure car was checked and maintenance at the dealer less then a week prior for a small misfire then was dismissed due to car all the sudden running fine so I drove it 100 miles then it died and almost killed me due to the sudden lockup 2017 Subaru wrx with the fa20 dit also worth mentioning cars 100% factory stock car wasn’t terribly damaged, although I was very shaken up from sudden failure into a ditch.

See all problems of the 2017 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

Abs, cruise control, and other driving assistance features are disabled while driving at night. I checked for recalls on Subaru wrxs and noticed a recall was issued for the same problems on 2011-2015 models. My vehicle is a 2016 model and demonstrates all the same failures observed from the recall of the 2011-2015 models.

See all problems of the 2016 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

Tl the contact owns a 2017 Subaru wrx. While driving 30 mph, the steering wheel became difficult to turn and was uncontrollable. The brake pedal was applied, but the vehicle failed to respond. As a result, the vehicle accelerated and crashed into a ditch. The driver and passenger side air bags deployed and all the warning indicators flashed and illuminated on the instrument panel. Also, "eyesight" not available was displayed. The passenger sustained hand injuries, but medical attention was not received. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The local dealer and manufacturer were not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 37,000.

A cvt defect is causing erratic, uncontrollable, and violent changes in engine rpm, including but not limited rapid violent oscillations in rpm, non-shifting, sustained holding of rpm near engine red-line, abrupt decreases of rpm and subsequent loss of power despite the accelerator is still being applied. These defects have occurred under an array of driving conditions, speeds, throttle positions, road gradients, ambient temperatures, altitudes, and engine temperatures. Subaru was provided with videos of the dashboard gauges taken during malfunctions, and the vehicle was returned to them to have the issues assessed at least 3 times. Subaru completed tcm "re-flashing", ecm updates, and software updates to address the problems with no effect. Cvt malfunctions have gradually increased in severity and frequency over the past 20,000 miles. The repeated, sudden, and violent malfunctions of the cvt have put the occupants at risk of collision on multiple occasions and in one instance an abrupt downshift caused a minor neck injury to a disabled passenger.

See all problems of the 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

While driving the vehicle I noticed while depressing my brakes or clutch, I would hear a "popping sound. " also I noticed the clutch pedal and the brake pedal would move towards the left together (oppose to just up and down) when depressing the clutch pedal. It seems like the whole firewall where the clutch and brake pedals are attached too is moving when depressed. This happens all the time now when clutch pedal is depressed.

See all problems of the 2008 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

During normal driving activities, the accelerator pedal will stop functioning. At this time, the check engine light illuminates and the engine idle is held steady at approximately 1500rpm. The car cannot accelerate with the accelerator pedal. Shutting the car off for 60 seconds or more is required. Attempting to start before the 60 second time results in the engine not starting. After the 60 seconds, the engine starts and appears to operate normally except with the cel illuminated. The associated code from the ecm is p2138.

See all problems of the 2012 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

The clutch pedal on my 2008 wrx makes a squeaking noise every time it's engaged. When I investigated the noise, I noticed that the clutch pedal bracket assembly (forward firewall) shifts approx 1/4 inch every time the clutch pedal is engaged. I found that the three spot welds holding the clutch pedal bracket to the forward firewall were broken. From the outside of the firewall, just under the windshield wipers, the spot welds are separating away from the firewall every time the clutch pedal is engaged. This allows the entire clutch pedal bracket assembly to move,making that squeaking noise. If the bracket completely separates from the firewall, the clutch will not work. This is super super dangerous while driving.

2015 wrx 2. 0l manual transmission while driving the car in everyday situations I have had (3) distinct problems associated with the engine/throttle/idle. 1) ghost blip: when coming to a stop, around 5-15 mph, put it in neutral coast to a stop idle will inexplicably spike from ~700rpm (idle) --> ~1. 2-1. 5k rpm (for a second or two. . . Like a ghost blipped the throttle). No pressure applied to accelerator. 2) rough idle: while sitting at a stop, in neutral, ~700rpm (idle) --> will dip to ~650-600rpm for a fraction of second & reoccur every 2-4 seconds. Feels like someone lightly shaking your seat from left to right. 3) near stall: while sitting at a stop, in neutral, ~700rpm (idle) --> will dip the rpms low enough that the whole car noticeably shakes. . . Similar to the shake you would experience if the engine were actually about to stall. The rpms will fumble around a bit and then hiccup back to normal idle after 4-5 seconds. All three items have been brought to the attention of the local Subaru dealer on (2) occasions w/ the reply unable to diagnose problem and/or it is normal.

Every time I press it the clutch I hear a crackling noise from the broken welds that hold up the brake and clutch assembly to the firewall. Fear for my safety and other because if the other welds break I may be in or cause an accident due not being able to brake my vehicle .

In *extremely* cold weather - below of - the vehicle will start successfully however the stability/traction control, anti-lock brakes, and "hill-assist" (part of the abs system) trouble indicator lights will light and stay lit. Based on the instruction manual if this occurs, I should cycle the ignition to see if the code clears. This is an unacceptable solution because the car's battery is already extremely stressed due to the cold temperature and may not restart the vehicle. However, on one occurrence I did cycle the ignition and the problem remained. While I recognize that a more vicious brake fluid is needed in a performance vehicle of this type, if the abs pump's orifices were larger this issue might not occur. The other possibility is the brake fluid used during assembly is already supersaturated with moisture and the cold temps allowed the suspended water to fall out of suspension and freeze in the hydraulic lines. Vehicle was safe to drive, the brake's mechanical action was unaffected by the fault. The brake and clutch pedals (which I believe to use the same fluid) it did feel like I was pushing through mud. I did confirm the abs was not functional.

See all problems of the 2014 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

On December 23rd, I had my son, take his Subaru wrx to brown's Subaru in manassas, va for an oil & filter change and to have fixed an annoying click sound which occurs each time the clutch pedal is depressed. Brown's determined that the clutch mounting to the firewall was cracked and would have to be fixed or the clutch & brake pedals would break away. I researched the clutch problem last night. The crack in the mounting of the clutch to the firewall is a defect known to Subaru of America. All wrx's from 2008 forward have this issue no recall. If it is not fixed, the clutch pedal and brake which are on the same mounting will break away completely. It seems to me that this is a very serious safety issue.

See all problems of the 2009 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

My dream car demolished in split second. Could have very easily died as well as my passenger. I looked up the recalls when I got the car and it was not listed yet, the steel front control arms in the snow belt states rust out and cause the vehicle to loose control and or crash. Well it did both to me as well as excelerate my car. I was on a date that night for the first time in a while. And on our way home, we were coming around a slight bend, I was going probably 35-40 mph and right when I turned the steering wheel going around the bend I heard a crack/thud noise and instantly I swear on my dads grave that the car accelerated, it was obviously out of control, I could not stop the car it kept going the same way as the turn, and hit an embankment about 3 1/2 feet tall the front door opened somehow when I hit. It bent the complete door up and looked like a lamborghini door. Luckily we had are seat belts on! the car the proceeded to flip on to its roof. Back, front side windows blown out. Both upside down in awe. Made sure she was ok. She was cut up on her arm and had seatbelt marks. As for me I know I hit my head bad but I don't even remember, it happened so fast and unpredictable! I had that car paid off. Loved it so much but I'm very disappointed I was never aware of the recall. I looked up my VIN the day or so after, and it said the control arms were never replaced. A month or so later I check again, and it says they were fixed. . Now come on, that's a little weird and convienent if I so happened to sue Subaru. I also had my car at a local Subaru dealer 3 months before for a overall maintenance check and look over. . . Why did they not know, why did they not even see the corrosion. I was so in shambles after the wreck, that when the insurance guy came to look at my car it was totaled obviously. I tried pointing out what happened, he really could of cared less.

See all problems of the 2003 Subaru Impreza Wrx 🔎.

I bought my Subaru in February of 2013 with approx 75000 miles on the odo. I believe the defect had already been there when I bought it and I hadn't noticed it until it got slightly worse. The brake pedal and the clutch flexes when I press either of them. Pressing the clutch will move the brake pedal in the down position approx. 1/3 of an inch same with the brake pedal. The welds connecting the pedal bracket to the firewall are not welded correctly. It needs to be reinforced by something else to assure me that the clutch and the brake pedal will not move whilst driving. It scares me to drive my vehicle to and from work because of the possibility that these welds will break. Which will make me unable to press either pedal and I could lose my ability to clutch and brake. Which could result in me going 70mph possibly (interstate speeds) into another car or obstacle. Or simply rear ending someone in traffic or rolling back into them being unable to brake. If this bracket breaks off of the bulkhead/firewall I will have no brakes or clutch then my car becomes a public safety issue. Someone or people could get hurt if this happens and it could.