Wheel Problems of Tesla Model S - part 2

Rear tires have alarming wear on the inside, where the inside sidewall meets the tread. This is identical to the other complaints that are logged on NHTSA about michelin pilot sport 4s rear tires on Tesla Model S plaid cars. Tires are: michelin pilot sport 4s 295/30 zr21 102y xl bsw. Specifically, the right rear tires loses pressure and needs to be reinflated. The left rear tire, according to inspection, actually looked worse, but is not yet losing pressure. This is impossible to see or know about without removing the tire or putting the car on a lift, since it is on the is inside sidewall/tread of the rear tire. There is high danger of a blowout because of some type of defect (camber/suspension or tire) which cannot be seen by the consumer. I would have never known about this if the tire technician had not alerted me, and probably would have had a high-speed blowout.

See all problems of the 2022 Tesla Model S 🔎.

Tesla vehicles suffer excessive “toe-in” wear on all tires. Tesla claims it is a function of the vehicle being heavy and that it is “normal” tires have to be replaced every 12-24 months as a result of the inner portion showing cord, wire, and losing air. The tread on the rest of the tires appears to have 1/8 to 1/4 inch of usable tread however all tires have to be replace as a result of the toe in. Vehicle was repeatedly aligned by Tesla but that did not alleviate the issue. Presents a real danger as the portion of the tire dangerously worn down is on the most inner side of the tire. Not easily visible.

See all problems of the 2016 Tesla Model S 🔎.

The car was left parked for 12h in a parking lot were I work. Whilst driving there and upon exiting the car, nothing out of the ordinary was observed. Getting back in the vehicule, the car seemed ok. Upon backing up the car, a loud sound plus weird wheel camber on the rear driver's side wheel were observed. Upon verification, it looks like a tie rod broke. Given the condition (no excessive load on the car, car parked, not significant impact that we are aware of, the sudden break), it tends to point to a fatigue fracture.

See all problems of the 2017 Tesla Model S 🔎.

Factory oem tire separated on the driver side rear. This could have ended badly had I not noticed the difference in handling of the vehicle. It appears the rear camber of the vehicle causes strain on the inner side of the tire and there is zero calibration that can be made to help fix this. Tesla told me it’s a michelin issue and michelin says it’s a Tesla suspension issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while driving at an unknown speed, he heard an abnormally loud sound come from the driver’s side wheel. The contact pulled over and inspected the wheel but did not see an issue. The contact stated that he continued driving and while driving approximately 35 mph, the driver’s side wheel detached and went into the wheel well. The vehicle then began to steer slowly to the left independently and the contact was able to get the vehicle into a parking lot. The contact stated there was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle was towed to his place of employment. The local Tesla dealer was contacted however, the cause of the failure not yet determined. The dealer informed the contact that the driver’s side control arm needed to be replaced but the part was not available. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where the contact was informed that the failure was not related to the control arm, but that the wheel well and the front fascia lower valence needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,466.

The inner edge of rear tires wear out very quickly leading to loss air pressure. Many other owner of Tesla 2021+ on 21 inch wheels and michelin stock tires have exact same issue. Very dangerous if the tire bursts on highway, can lead to serious accidents.

See all problems of the 2021 Tesla Model S 🔎.

2019, 2020, 2021, 2022 prior 2022 I shared with Tesla several times about my tires constant notification on the dashboard for low air. Tires were constantly being checked due to the dashboard display. I was told by Tesla it was covered, but no repair was done. When Tesla mobile or service only air was placed into the tires. Then I was told by Tesla mobile & calling 1800 when service, then when recall was performed it should fix the problem. Vehicle was not driven often due to black screen and tire issues/dashboard display. 2022 emmc is finally replaced but now the warning on the dashboard reads 'tire pressure monitoring system fault. Pressure sensor fault 'may' clear next drive. This is negligent for Tesla to say it may clear next drive (see pic). Tesla service had the vehicle in shop several times and refused to repair/correct this safety issue. I have complained and Tesla has blocked me from messaging Tesla. What if there is a blow out, low pressure, faulty system and an accident occurs causing hurt, harm, or death?.

See all problems of the 2013 Tesla Model S 🔎.

I had a tire that kept loosing pressure so I took it in to see way. With only a little over 12,000 miles have I have a tire that is splitting between the tread and side wall. Its one the inside of the back drivers side tire.

The tpms system has failed and has been a known issue with telsa since 2014. The system will not reset and telsa has said it has to be upgraded for 1000. The warning light comes on randomly and goes away after the car drives for a while or gets parked.

See all problems of the 2014 Tesla Model S 🔎.

Reversing from my driveway it appears links or bolts on the steering and wheel suspension system failed. The wheels came into contact with the wheel cavity liner causing the steering to lock, the frame to protrude through the wheel cavity casing and the car to shut off or lock. The car is no longer safe to drive. The car is in my driveway, is available for inspection before I bring it back into Tesla for repair. Having just completed a highway drive, I dread to think what could have happened had this failure occurred on that journey at higher speeds. My car only has 40,000 miles and this issue or critical part failure appears to be premature. I have taken video of the wheel moving independently to the car chassis structure. There was no warning in advance of the failure. I welcome an NHTSA or secondary inspection prior to repair by Tesla. I intend to deliver the car back to Tesla on 1/5/22.

While I was backing out from my car garage and turn the steering wheel, I heard a squeaking sound while applying a brake on the passenger front tire area. I stopped the car and went out to check, the front passenger tire pretty much pushed all the way back touching the wheel arch liner (see photo). I called Tesla and they sent a tow truck to towed it to their service center near by. I didn't realize how wide spread the issue was until I research the problem online. I filed this complaint to solidify with other people which have the same problem.

See all problems of the 2015 Tesla Model S 🔎.

While driving in heavy traffic on highway 92, the left hand fore link assembly (Tesla part no 1041570-00-b) finally cracked. A loud crunch and a dark smoke plume was let out as the front left tire made contact with the wheel well. I stopped to check for a blown tire, but found none. The vehicle was still operable and maneuverable, though for any braking or more than mild turning, the tire again made contact with the wheel well and gave off loud crunching sounds. No warning lamps or messages prior to the failure, but some weeks prior, the left fore wheel's tire thread depth had started wearing down significantly – down to 1mm, vs the others being 4, 6, and 4 – this part had probably been slowly degrading until it finally cracked and failed permanently on the road. This problem is apparently widely experienced, reported, and published (see https://teslamotorsclub. Com/tmc/threads/cracked-forelink. 95637 for others experiencing it at least back through 2017). I towed the vehicle to my nearest Tesla service center, and though it apparently is common and seems like a production defect, I had to pay for the whole repair of both fore link assemblies myself.

To whom it may concern, Tesla Model S, and potentially other vehicles, have notorious issues with their front suspension fore links perhaps causing unsafe driving conditions. The topic has been brought up on Tesla forums numerous times and countless drivers are experiencing the same issue due to faulty parts provided during the manufacture of Tesla vehicles. The issue causes turning tightness, tire rubbing, and complete car driving capability failure, usually at low speeds. With the frequency of the complaint and the potential danger it could cause should the front suspension fully fail at higher speeds, this serious matter needs to be investigated on an urgent basis. As older Tesla vehicles are now aging the occurrence and increased risk is only rising to everyday, unsuspecting drivers. Just recently, my fore link and front suspension failed only minorly, and without and complete understanding of what the issue was the car was experiencing I continued to drive the vehicle. The only noticeable issue that came up for me was tire rubbing during reversing and slight misalignment when the vehicle was parked. After taking it in to Tesla I now know that this could have been a fatal error on my part of the front suspension would have failed completely during highway speeds. When these front fore links fail, most will only experience minor issues like me and avoid taking it into repair, as the average car buyer does not understand that this could be a catastrophic failure. If this issue is not resolved and a recall seriously considered, I’m concerned in the not so distant future that this may lead to serious bodily harm if full failure of the front suspension occurs during highway or roadway speeds. Again, this is not an isolated issue. Countless and thousands of Tesla owners have shared their experiences online with the same issue. I’ve attached my Tesla service quote for your review, this repair costs upwards of $3,500.

I’ve reported a continually present rack and pinion issue. . Four times. Tesla techs claim they don’t experience it or that it is ‘normal’ for this car. The car emits an audible grinding sound plus a visible wheel skipping when turned hard left or right. Today, the right front wheel began to emit a loud whirring sound in addition to the steering issue. Tesla refuses to investigate the issue beyond test drives. The situation could deteriorate quickly resulting in my inability to control the car while driving. It is a very serious matter.

Wheels: from the original purchase of the vehicle, I had a small air leak from the right rear tire. I addressed this with Tesla and they said nothing was wrong. I lived with it adding pressure from time to time. When it was time to replace the tires because the originals were only good for 20,000 miles at most. Upon replacing the tires, it was discovered that the right rear rim was cracked which explained why it was leaking all this time. Not long after the tire replacement, I experienced another leak on the right front. I brought it back in to check for a leak in the tire and again discovered it was cracked also, but had 2 cracks in this one ??. I discussed this with the tire shop and he stated he sees this very often with the Model S. He seems to believe the car is too heavy for the particular turbine wheels selected for the car. These wheels are a factory purchase upgrade. I called Tesla to address my concerns for feedback. They denied ever hearing of this issue as common. I did the research and lo and behold this defect is very common and people are very unhappy regarding this issue and the fact Tesla is blatantly being dishonest about it. For the foundation and a major component that binds a vehicle to the road should be taken seriously. In my opinion, a vehicle that has the potential for the wheels to crack and maybe just come apart is critical. And that depends on the actual speed of travel. This could be very bad.

See all problems of the 2020 Tesla Model S 🔎.

Failure of l front fore link resulting in unstable wheel, contact of wheel with wheel well, difficult steering and inability to drive vehicle.

The upper control arm was replaced by Tesla outside of warranty because, as mentioned by technician, "the upper control arm ball joint was rubbing metal on metal and will fail eventually". I initially noticed this when the wheels were squeaking loudly while turning the wheel. According to the technician, this has been a common issue on the car. I realize Tesla did a recall in china but not in us so I'm submitting this info in case the data is helpful for any potential recall in the future. Please contact me for videos.

Front suspension lower fore link broke; this led to a car that cannot be moved in the middle of the road; Tesla knows about it, they have 2 bulletins on it, but do not replace them, despite being a road hazard.

Car is equipped with Tesla’s “sonic carbon twin turbine” rim option. This is not a very common option, so there may not be too many affected vehicles. Car is only 6-months old, and I was advised by Tesla service center that ** 4 rims*** on the vehicle were cracked, each rim in multiple places, on a 6-month old car. Car weighs 5,000lbs. These rims are too weak to handle that high weight on typical road conditions. It is unheard of to find cracks in all 4 rims on even an older car! and this is on a 6-month old car! this is extremely unsafe.

My car with nearly 17,621 miles only had a part come off the suspension system off drivers side. Appeared to be an aluminum part that cracked in half while pulling from the garage. This car never was in a wreck. The suspension failed and my tire backed into the plastic casing which eroded the tires causing extensive damage. If this had occurred on the highway, this would have certainly caused a fatality to myself, family and other cars on the road. It appears this has happened to many prior owners of this vehicle, mainly model x and s around this time frame. I do not want to become a statistic before a recall is reached. As a physician, I am very concerned for my family and others that may be driving a dangerous vehicle.

Cracked rim. Unacceptable I have had to replace about 6 tires on my car that has 17,600 miles. I did not notice anything other than my tires keep going flat. Tesla keeps telling me to replace my tires to make money off me but its the rims that are the problem.

See all problems of the 2019 Tesla Model S 🔎.

While I was driving my new Tesla s (approximately 1000 miles) on a county road, the left front tire suddenly came off my car, went across a road with oncoming traffic and hit a fence at a local residence. There was substantial damage to the left front area of the car which can be seen from the attached photos. Fortunately, I had just exited the garden state parkway where I was doing 65 mph. I have little doubt that if the accident had occurred 10 minutes earlier, there would have been several fatalities including me. Although Tesla claims to produce luxury vehicles, it leased me a car that was inherently dangerous and could have caused a fatal accident.

I took my car to the Tesla shop on independence at charlotte, nc, as external noise was increasingly audible. I was called from the Tesla shop to replace the tires as a possible cause. The tires were replaced & alignment done 2/16/21 for $1900. Picked car 2/17/21 and saw the tire pressure came up right at the parking lot (stationary) and stating left front tire pressure 35 (42 psi normal). Tesla was swamped with customers so I went to discount tires to get the pressure restored 2/18/21. Morning of 2/19/21, pressure check came back on. I went back to discount tires, same tire pressure was down to 29. I called Tesla that something was wrong with the replacement tire right from the shop, hence I drove straight to the Tesla shop from discount tires as I couldn't risk this happening again. Tesla found a crack in the wheel of the faulty tire and asked me to pay $1,000 and they would wave the labor of changing the wheel as a courtesy. Issue is, how did the wheel become fractured since dropping it at the shop? I never had this issue before dropping off the vehicle. Tesla would not accept responsibility but offered me 2 options; I pay $1,000 for a new wheel or they loan me a wheel to go fix my cracked wheel elsewhere. I was frustrated, hence I took the loaner wheel. On leaving the Tesla shop, the tire pressure came on but this time for the right front wheel. It was like having a bad dream. Long story short, I went back to discount tire, there was an identical crack in the right front wheel. I went on Tesla forum to review complaints from other customers and this is unfortunately common, especially amongst Model S. This is likely manufacturing defects and can be catastrophic for road users if not urgently addressed. I am a physician and have seen the tragedy's people suffer when quality is compromised.

The wheel control arm broke for no reason. It seems to be defective from the time it was made, it happened with a popping sound when parking.

While pulling my car out of the garage driveway on 1/8/2021, heard a metal cranking noise and I wasn't able to turn the steering wheel to the left. After inspecting the wheel, noticed the front wheel on the driver side was touching/stuck the wheel liner. Scheduled a service appointment with Tesla and took the car to the Tesla service center today, they identified both front forelinks need to be replaced. . Read more...

I noted a clunking noise on the driver side wheel area while driving. I ask for help from service, but everything is automated and they made an appointment for a month later. A few weeks after reporting the noise, I was breaking when my driver side front wheel seem to give way and the car started to skid. The affected wheels seem to be scraping the wheel well. Not much help from the service app and suggested I get it towed 200 miles away at $1100 so they could evaluate. My local tire guy saw the broken left lower control arm and said this was all over the internet and class action suit had just been filed. Telsa has been unresponsive and inaccessible due to their automated system. So far bill to fix is over $4,000.

The instrument control screen is failing as the glass is separating from the glass and unable to view icons on the panel. Telsa is not going to replace unless 1500 is paid for replacement with updated screen that does not separate from the glass. Some people are reporting it as bubbling or impression of water marks behind the glass but it is the glue failing. This is a known issue. For the wheel issue, the tpms system is failing and telsa will not replace unless 1k is paid to "upgrade" the system.

Front passenger control arm is broken, pushing the tire into the wheel well. I was reversing in my driveway when I felt the drag on the passenger side of the car. I got out and looked around the vehicle and saw a metal piece snapped. I could not move the car, as the tire was pushed into the wheel well. Called for a tow truck. This vehicle was manufactured in fremont, CA in 08/2015, with the other vehicles sold to china, which are now being recalled for the same reason.

Pulling my car out of my driveway, I attempted to reverse the car into the garage to charge it. After putting the car in reverse I heard a loud pop noise and the steering wheel refused to turn. Attempting to turn the wheel at all resulted in a grinding noise that made the car undriveble. After a tow truck was called, we noticed that the entire front driver side wheel was shifted backward and was resting on the rear of the wheel well liner. The air suspension controls would not allow me to move the height of the vehicle and instead were locked at "very high".

Because the computer in the Tesla Model S from 2014 was broken, the car was very low in suspension. Tesla knew about it in may 2020, but did not offer a repair even if I paid $2,500. Eventually the frame of the car touched the rear passenger side and the tire exploded and the wheel was so low that is bent the frame and big pieces of the frame of the car as the base of the car was touching the street. The car was deemed a total and my compensation from aaa did not even allow me to buy a used Model S. The car at the time was in motion on the 380 freeway and I had to drive several yards to get to safety running on the frame of the wheel with the base of the case touching the road.

I was braking from about 35 mph to make a 90 degree right hand turn into driveway. There was a sudden grinding noise and shuddering. I continued to brake and turn until I was safely in the driveway. A quick inspect revealed some damage to the wheel well, but the car seem drive-able, so I very slowly limped into a parking spot. I've read enough posts from other people having this same failure to immediately suspect a suspension failure. When parked it was easy to identify the same failure I've seen all over the internet. Control arm failed, resulting the wheel touching the wheel well as I was braking, burning through to the metal and gouging my wheel.

1. Suspension problem, ongoing concern. 2. Excessive tire wear of unknown cause. 3. Driver screen for managing vehicle controls is faulty and hopefully being fixed via a warranty alert dated November 09, 2020. See attached document. My concern is that Tesla is not forthcoming in solving this suspension problem. I would encourage your agency to investigate claims into Model S vehicles produced through 2018 as well.

See all problems of the 2018 Tesla Model S 🔎.

I was at the drive-thru banking, sitting stationary when suddenly the car accelerated at full speed, out of my control, I could not brake. Finally, the car stopped with a red error message "low tire pressure".

My car is only 2 yrs old and while backing out of a parking space in a parking structure, I felt a lift then lowering of front driver's side wheel (like going over speed bump, but there was none) then would barely drive. Told that the driver's front lower control arm is broken.

Tire pressure monitoring system fault light and low tire pressure light on. Tesla says the baolong system installed is faulty and failing, and a continental retrofit module is needed. Many people have reported this issue. Tesla charges over $700 for this fix. If so many people are having issues with this, why not recall it?! Tesla says theres no way to reset the sensor. Only option is to replace it.