general problems of the 2005 Toyota Prius

Eingen faliur acording to dealership Toyota of anthioc the veicle is on there lot for now but there diagnostic was engine faliure.

While driving in a heavy trafficed area, my car eccellerated on its own. When I stepped on the brake the car did not respond but simply kept driving at around 20 miles per hour. Magically I was able to navigated the traffic and there was no crash, but there certainly could have been and several people could have been badly hurt. I have scheduled a mechanics assessment for tomorrow.

2 recalls not completed.

When I go to hit the brakes the car won't stop and the rear end makes noise and raises up. The abs and brake lights are one as well as maintenance required and srs airbag light. The master alarm buzzer is on and won't go off. Brakes engaged without hitting the brake causes rim to overheat and brake fluid gets extremely hot. Also sometimes when tap on the brakes they will lock up and you will go sliding sideways or tap the brakes and they straight to the floor. Also the brake actuator starts whining noise and won't go off even if the car is turned off. Don't have documentation from a mechanic but can send video of driving it.

The odometer stopped working one (1) mile short of 300,000. Toyota told me that for that year and model car, the odometer was made to reach 299,999 only. They can replace it with new, that will start at 0 mile, but I will have to pay for it. This is unfair. They sold me a car that only reaches 299,999 and if I any to see the odometer reach a higher number, I must pay for it.

My vehicle will not go but about 30 or 40 maybe 50 on highway after very slow exelaration I'm almost killed every time I get on the highway highway and reg streets to excearate it very very slow to start then I have to pull over and kill it start over not using het or air now it just won't start have not had it checked can't afford it.

I am the owner of a 2005 Prius which experiences intermittent Prius combination meter failure. This is a recognized design problem, however, Toyota chose to ignore the safety ramifications and categorized it as an issue covered by extended warranty. Toyota would not honor the replacement of the component unless you could demonstrate the part failure. They also included a time limit on when this part would be replaced. This failure results in all critical vehicle telemetry (speed, blank engagement, engine failures, gas level, etc) from not being displayed.

Every time I'd try to shift my car into drive or reverse, it would shift back into neutral on its own, making driving impossible.

Toyota has a known issue with brake actuator failure. There was no notice sent to let owners of these vehicles know that their vehicle could be subject to these failures. My vehicle's instrument panel revealed this issue while driving home from church. Vehicle still operational, but could lose the ability to apply brakes at any time.

The digital speedometer stops at 299,999 km or miles and won't roll over to 300,000 km or miles why won't it roll over to 300,000 miles I have found out that many others are affect it, such as the matrix and corollas.

Toyota Prius combination meter not working for 2 days when I repeatly turn it on and turn it off. . . . Then works one day then is not working now---I can't see the instrument panel and how fast I am driving and then I can not shut the car off for several minutes. . . . Very unsafe. And I just had the car serviced for a messed up battery. This is a used car that I bought to replace the 2001 Toyota Prius that was rearended in Dec 2016 then the dealer sold me a junk car in April 2017 now having to fix all these problems. I will sell this car as a piece of junk to the junk yard as strap metal because that what it is. Very unsafe and the NHTSA is allowing this to happen. Started on 08/22/2017 & 08/23/2017 & 08/25/2017 I can't see the panel.

Car will not start, I have replaced the battery, it is not a battery issue. If you slam the car door, or hood of car, the car may start. The horn will work, witch indicates it is not the battery. May sometimes start with a jump start. This usually is while the car is not in motion.

1. Summer, 2011, @ 35,000 mi car was parked @ bottom of my steep driveway, a few feet back from a rr tie pinned to ground by 3 rebar in front of car to block wheels. I intended to back up driveway, with gear in reverse, but when I released brake, car catapulted forward with such force that it bent rebar @ right angles, lifted rr tie up in the air & over on one edge, & the car jumped up on top of it, where it stuck. I saw that the gear shift had slipped out of (reverse) gear into neutral. Called aaa road service to lift car off. No other damage. 2. May 21, 2015, @ 50,000 mi. Backing up my 82' long steep driveway, I was too close to tree on right 3/4 of the way up, so I turned the wheels slightly left to back arc away from it, but still too close. I intended to return to bottom of driveway to start over & adjust angle of car as done 100s of times. With brake still depressed, I shifted gear from reverse to drive. As I lifted brake, before my foot could move towards the accelerator, suddenly car shot off like a rocket down steep slope to left, through 2 wood fences, over driveway next door, into swimming pool full of water - which slowed car to a stop & sank with me in it. Gear shift had slipped out of (drive) gear into neutral. Called 911. Car totalled. Miraculously no other damage to anyone aside from my traumatic experience. Note: gear shift was the tiny knob on dashboard type, to move with finger tips in very small radius. I never had the problem on that steep drive w any other cars. I can refer you to photo of car in swimming pool in local news paper; it identifies address so not included here. I see in research online that other owners from at least 2004 to 2008 complained to you about this same gear slippage into neutral problem. Why weren't we warned? ( I was obliged to give today's date as the date of incidence by the site).

Car started skidding on the road, couldn't take control because car started to speed up and then rammed into the concrete barrier, spun around and ended up facing oncoming traffic. Luckily, there wasn't any car right behind me and I managed to push open the driver's side door although it wouldn't open completely and opened just enough for me to squeeze through and ran out of the car. At no time did the airbag open up at all. I was lucky that I sustained no major injury except for a badly knocking my left knee on the dash. My question to Toyota would be why the airbad didn't open! what if another car had hit mine and I wouldn't have been protected by the airbag!.

I purchased my Prius used in June 2014 this was my first winter with it obviously. Any time it about 10 below zero in mn this winter I had to hold my car in drive or reverse, sometimes as long as 5 miles+.

Car when in park or stopped (at a stop sign or light) will automatically shift into neutral about a second after I try to put it in reverse or drive. It began happening about a month ago and now happens every time I start the car. It also began happening at stoplights and almost caused an accident when I was trying to accelerate onto a fast highway from a stoplight last week. It takes up to 10 attempts to keep it in drive or reverse now from a stopped position, and I never know when or for how long it will happen. Other than this, my car is in good condition and has not had any problems. I looked up the issue online, and from what a lot of other Prius drivers say, it sounds like a major issue with the shift lever assembly (see below for links to forums where many others have the same issue). This fix costs a few hundred dollars, and it seems common in the 2004-2009 Prius. . Read more...

On start up the combination meter failed to operate. Since the combination meter presents bulk of the critical vehicle information it present a hazard to the operation of the vehicle. It is a known intermittent problem and was first observed on my 2005 Prius approximately three years ago, however, the problem can clear itself. When it first occurred I brought it to the sun Toyota service department, 3001 u. S. 19 holiday, FL (727) 478-0070 for service. The service personal noticed the problem, recycled the power on the vehicle, then the problem cleared itself. They said at that time there was nothing they could do to repair the problem unless it hard fails. Since that time I have had it intermittently fail and correct itself. I discovered that this was a known design defect and that a warranty extension had been issued by Toyota motor sale, USA which would cover repair of the vehicle. I experienced the failure again on 11/18/2014. I immediately drove it to sun Toyota. They examined the problem, I pointed out the extended warranty, but they said the vehicle was now outside of the extended warranty and could not be repaired. I drove the vehicle to clearwater Toyota, 21799 us highway 19 n, clearwater, FL 33765 (727) 799-1234, and they too said it was out of warranty. As a last recourse I called the Toyota customer experience center. They assigned a case to me but they too said the problem is out of warranty.

I purchased four new hifly hf201 tires, size 185/65r15, on September 5, 2014. On October 21, 2014, the front driver's side tire blew out while I was driving home on the freeway. There were a number of holes -- one as large as a baseball -- along the outer sidewall of the tire. As previously stated, the tires were a little over one month old, were purchased new, and were professional installed. I drive a lot for my work and have two kids, who are often in the car with me. My daughter is about to get her license and will be driving my car, and I'm very concerned about the safety of these tires. The dealer who sold me the tires gave me a new tire, free of charge, to replace the one that failed, but I have little confidence in these tires. I have been driving since I was 16 (I'm now 52) and I have never seen a tire fail like this one did. I'm filing this complaint because I don't believe these tires are safe and don't want to see anyone get hurt. Thank you, and please feel free to contact me with any questions.

We were driving just north of coos bay, oregon when a big truck with the license plate number ycsi418 carrying a trailer with the license plate 66516 clipped the back driver's side of our car while we were forced to change lanes because of the lane ending. I had my blinker on for a long time and we were ahead of him until he sped up and clipped us. He then sped up and cut us off and drove away very quickly. It was raining and we were on the 101 in oregon and he was going at least 80 mph because we were going around 65 and he was pulling away fast. Since it was a single lane highway we stayed behind him long enough to give him a chance to pull over, but the second he got the chance, he changed lanes and cut others off in order to get away.

When run car to long distance and stop, the car accelerate the motor to high revolutions and need press the brakes. The dealer tell me paid for evaluation, but the car not have indicator light for problems. That's is a safety concerns. Please need help. I thinking the problem is the computer.

Traction control engaged on a hill with light snow cover completely stopping the wheels and preventing any forward motion, creating a dangerous situation. Pedestrians had to push the car up the hill while the accelerator was pressed to get to the top. Backing would have placed the car in a dangerous position with oncoming 50 mph cross traffic . There should be an override for situations such as this to enable some forward motion to be maintained even if there is some wheel slippage. Occurred Friday 14 Feb 2014. This has occurred in the past on gravel driveways and other roads. This instance was by far the most troubling since pedestrians were involved.

I had just had my oil changed and when I was leaving I started the car but the dashboard lights didn't come on. I drove on and still nothing. When I was at a stop light, the lights came on with the error msg that my brakes were engaged. I tried multiple times to depress and release the emergency brake, but same message. I couldn't move the vehicle because the front brakes were locked. I had it towed to the dealership and they said they had to get Toyota involved but it sounds like three computers are fried. This is very frustrating since I got the vehicle because it had such wonderful reviews (yes this was some years ago) how do computers just "up and fry" without any warning. I am hopeful that Toyota will do the right thing and step up and take the necessary steps to make sure this doesn't happen to anyone else. Also, whatever they could do for me would be greatly appreciated since I was a die hard Prius fan. . . . . Until now??? :,(.

The car was initially swerving (as if in a bad wheel alignment). Then it took a sharp right turn and jumped off of the freeway. Despite my attempts to control it and keep it on freeway, due to the speed and momentum, it drove off the slope to the right of the road, rolled over and eventually landed right side up. Initially I thought it could be a blown up tire. . But that did not seem to be the case.

Both hid headlights went out at the same time. I can toggle the light switch off and on and one or both lights came back on. Then went out again within a few seconds to a minute, over and over. Makes no difference if car is not moving at all or going 70 mph. I was able to drive the 15 miles home at night without incident. Went to dealer next day and they say all that is wrong is that the headlights are burned out. Estimate to replace both is $474. 31. I do not believe that they would burn out at exactly the same time. And if they are burned out then why do they come back on and off. I have done research and found the class action settlement for 2006-2009 models. I also found that you have had hundreds of complaints about the 2005 model yet you have not considered this a safety matter. I disagree. Even if you don't help me, I want my complaint included in your database.

The electronic(?) shift mechanism in the car malfunctions/does not stay engaged in temperatures approximately 28 degrees fareheit & below when car has sat idle for periods of time. The night of this incident I was returning from a business trip where my car had been sitting out in the weather for approximately 28-30 hours. The temperature this particular day was 9 degrees; however, I have had this happen in the past with temperatures ranging into the mid to upper 20's. {due to our mild winter last year I don't recall it happening much if at all-- it did however occur the winter year prior [2010-2011] and I reported it to my Toyota dealer. They looked at me and told me they were unaware of any such problem. } when I position my shift select from the center position & select either drive or reverse, the car transmission disengages upon pressing the gas. The other night I had previously mentioned I had to physically hold the drive selector in the "d"/drive position for 28 minutes before the selector remained engaged. (in past incidents I have had to hold the selector in position from 5-10 minutes- the problem seems to get worse in rlation to lower temps. Are there any other reports of such a problem?.

Since about the fall of last year or so, we've been noticing that the headlights have been going off intermittently. The right went out and then came back on. Then another time the left went out and came back on. I've read about this occurring on many other Prius' and that there was a class action suit? anyway, I need to figure out how to get this fixed as it is a serious safety issue.

At random, the car does not start. There is nothing different about events leading up to the failure from one day to the next. My neighbor has the same problem, and so did a friend of mine. Aaa told me that in the winter the car is particularly prone to having trouble starting.

We own two 2005 Toyota pruis. We bought the first at sunrise Toyota and six months later we bought the second at a Toyota dealership in virginia. The former pruis (car #1) had 96,000 miles on it when the lever to change the gears began to slip from the drive or reverse mode into neutral repeatedly. Fortunately we were stopped with the engine running when this first occurred. On the latter Prius (car # 2), with 64,000 miles, we had not used the car for a few days, went into the car started the engine allowing it to run for few minutes as it was cold outside and attempted to shift. Like the former pruis (car #1) the lever kept moving from the drive or reverse position to the neutral position consistently. I went to sunrise Toyota with car #1. They repaired it without charge as I had extended warranty insurance on that car. When I spoke with them about car # 2) they said they would need to do a diagnostic before the repair, repair it and then charge me. I returned home to call Toyota corporation saying that I bought two pruis' months apart but the same year car, from two different dealerships and am experiencing the same problem with both cars just a few weeks apart. I mentioned my concern that the car might shift into neutral while driven on the highway causing a dangerous situation. I asked if other drivers have reported similar problems and what if any assistance they could give. They stated that they do not have a record of this problem and will not be recalling the cars at this time. I again stressed my safety concerns. They again stated they do not have any immediate plans for recall for this issue. The cost of the repair is close to one thousand dollars. My safety concerns remain as far as driving this car for myself and other drivers who own a pruis. I was told by the company and dealership that my problem is specific but I do not understand how you can buy 2 cars , same make and year at different dealership and have the same issue.

Accelerator on 2005 Prius stuck.

My Prius exhibits removal of electrical and engine power to the front wheels during acceleration when turning sharply right or left on a slippery surface. This occurs as soon as one of the front wheel slips. Ordinarily this is only a minor aggravation, and easing on the throttle usually restores power but in icing conditions it's dangerous. There are conditions where I could not move the car when crossing a small berm of snow (3 inches high where one wheel had significantly less traction than the other. I had to be pushed over it. It appears to be a software issue, but my local Toyota dealer claims they never heard of it.