Door Latch Problems of Chevrolet Blazer

The contact owns a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer. The contact stated that the bushings and hinge pins on her vehicle were defective. The doors would only close by maneuvering them in a certain manner. The contact took the vehicle to a dealer and was informed that the failure was not covered under warranty. They also stated that the failure was common and the contact would be responsible for the repair costs. The warranty expired on the vehicle five days after the complaint was filed. The purchase date was unknown. The current mileage was approximately 73,500 and failure mileage was approximately 73,000.

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The contact owns a 1996 Chevrolet Blazer. While driving 35 mph, the front driver side door flew open. The contact examined the door and noticed that the latch failed. He placed a piece of wood at the lock position to keep the door closed. A few days later, the front passenger side door lock also failed. The vehicle is currently parked at her home and will be taken to the dealer for a diagnostic. The VIN, engine size, number of cylinders, dealer information, and failure mileage were unavailable. The current mileage was 49,000.

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After pulling into the parking lot of work, I was getting out of the vehicle and the spring that was attached to the truck door just fell off and on the ground. Now, as the time is passing the interior light doesn't work and the electrical panel on the driver's door is getting worse. I can only lock the driver's door from the outside and the alarm goes off everytime I open the door. I have to keep slamming it to make the door completely close. I haven't been to anyone yet because I believe this will be a big expense.

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Door latch broke, cracking metal around the latch on the driver side door - taking into repair shop, however complete failure of metal.

I have a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer and around a year and a half ago my drivers side door started having problems with closing it. I took it to a repair shop and they said door was too heavy and the bushings needed to be replaced and repair the striker plate. That cost was $175 and shortly after the door started slipping down again. Now the passengers side is doing the same thing, I can close it but cannot use it. I have a son that I do not feel safe letting him sit in the front with me because after driving and going over bumps it gets jarred and starts coming open. This is a very unsafe issue and until now I did not know who to complain to. I also have never received a recall letter for any of the listed recall problems such as seat belts. I really would like a response to this complaint because this is a very serious issue.

2001 chevy Blazer 4 door 4wd, 80,000 miles we could not keep the drivers door closed when we investigated we found the door latch segment on the center post of the vehicle had broken off the center post. The sheet metal holding the heavy latch metal had fatigued through all the way around, and the latch was then not hooked to any thing. We welded a heavy plate to the frame and re-attached the latch to it. We checked the passenger side and found it in similar condition.

: the contact stated the driver's side door sounded as if it was going to fall off. The vehicle was taken to a dealership ,where they determined the latches on the door corroded. The manufacturer has been contacted.

Drivers side door always sagged down a bit. Hinges eventually failed requiring hinges to be replaced. Due to this problem, the latch catch also failed. Both required new parts and welding to make the door operable as door would no longer latch shut. I literally had to tie the door shut to take it for repairs. In reviewing your site, I also have had similar problems as many other Blazer owners (hood latch mechanism failed; upper ball joints needed replaced; too many problems with this vehicle to list here). I am told by the repair shop that the door hinge issue is quite common among Chevrolet/gm products.

Front door hinges on 2000 s-10 Blazer have rotted. Driver hinge in 2002, now passenger hinge (both front doors) in January of 05. Door hinges both needed replacement which seems extremely odd on fairly new vehicle. Research on the internet shows that many people have the same problem and probably just don't know where to report it simulataneously. It's failure results in the inability to close the doors, which, depending on when they break (I. E. When closing door, hitting a bump in road - which could cause closed door to unlatch from post, flinging door open while driving). I really strongly suggest this be looked at. It appears that the wheel wells allow road spray and moisture to be thrown directly into the door panel well where the hinge is located and is causing the rot. Looks like a major manufacturing defect to not seal the door hinge area from the wheel spray and debris throw-back zone.

Driver's door will not stay shut while driving. The door would intermittently open. Vehicle had been to a repair shop, and mechanic concluded that the problem was due to manufacturer, who informed the consumer that was not covered under a recall.

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The drivers side door inside the vehicle where the door latches has caved in with the metal, and the door no longer shuts and must be tied to keep from flying open and me falling out. This is un safe and this car is supposed to be built well, and I have almost fallen out of the car.

Frontal seat adjuster lever broke complete off without excessive force being applied. This made driving difficult and unsafe in the current position the seat was in. Also, both front doors were leaking and were hard to open or close even when the automatic door lock was engaged. Dealership indicated that the door's bushing and pins needed to be replaced.

The metal behind the "hook" on the frame where the driver's door latch cracked, causing severe rattling and running risk of the door opening unintentionally. The door hinges and the hook had to be replaced and the frame welded at a cost of more than $500. The vehicle had less than 45,000 miles when the problem first occurred.

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I have a 1999 chevy Blazer that the drivers side door has weakened, and slipped down about an inch. This makes the door extremly hard to close since you need to lift up on it.

My '1998 Chevrolet Blazer's electric door locks started lockin g/unlocking themselves 3 months ago. Happens when driving, vehicle on/off. Also has prevented manual lock/unlock at times preventing exit/entry to vehicle. Dealer has had five times now and still cannot determine problem.

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Consumer states the front and rear doors are not secure while driving this vehicle. Manufacturer and dealer notified.

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While driving could hear a lot of noise coming from two front doors. When to be closed door needs to be pulled up, and sometimes will not lock, unsecuring driver and passenger. Dealer was contacted. Please provide more information.

My chevy Blazer's drivers door was repaired while it was under warrenty. It is breaking off. My warrenty expired 3 mths later as the door had broken again. The chevy dealer refused to repair it. I beleive the car was n a flood before I bought it and they did not tell me because the door hinges are all rusted and broken. They changed my alarm system and it has never worked properly. It is suppose to be automatic shut down if key not put in to start.

While unlocking passenger door inside door latch broke, unable to close passenger's door. Dealer was notified, and informed that any repairs would be at consumer cost due to vehicle b eing out of it warranty, and no manufacturer's recall on that part. Feel free to provide any further details on this matter.

Driver door latch wouldn't let door close smoothly. Sometimes latch will hit the side of the door .

I have not purchased this vehicle. It is a lease and I was the first. Not only has the transmission gone out in the 53,000 range but the brakes and the power door locks. I have exceeded the allotted mileage and so I'm stuck with all of the repair bills. My transmission mechanic told me he found the flaw in the transmission that it was a faulty part. Chevrolet told me too bad and I feel in a really rude way. I really feel for other who have to repalce a transmission so soon after buying a vehicle. If you can help myself or others I sure appreciate it. Thank you, trudy horridge.

While driving at any speed consumer had to depress the brake pedal very hard to get the vehicle to slow down. Also, right rear door will not open, windshield wipers, and the electric windows worked intermittently.

Driver's side door lock failed.

Consumer stated hatch back latch becomes loose in result of exhaust fumes entering into vehicle. Dealer has been contacted. Please provide further information. Ts.

The metal that the door strike latches are mounted to is falling away. There is no sign of rust, and the drivers side door has a significant number of holes at this mounting point. The reamining 3 doors are beginning to show signs of metal failure as well, although not as bad as the driver's door. You can literally take 2 fingers and move the "u" shaped door strike latch quite easily. When driving, air will enter if you lean against the door. It is a matter of time before this latch breaks off completely and the allow the door to open. 1 dealer (kery-morris Chevrolet in columbus, in) and 2 independent body shops claim they've never seen this before. After calling Chevrolet, it was suggested that we take this vehicle to another dealer for another opinion. We went to our local dealer (royal Chevrolet in bloomington, in) and the body shop manager indicated that he had seen this before but not this bad; he checked other 96 Blazers (including his in-laws) and found the same thing to be happening. There are no bulletins regarding this, so even though it is serious, it is our responsibility to repair it (estimated at $475. 00 from keri-morris). Royal indicated that if it was rusted, then the factory would stand behind it, but not because of metal fatigue. I can provide pictures if desired; the problem is very easy to see.