general problems of the 2012 Chevrolet Cruze - part 1

Coolant leaking , engine knock sound , turbo issue.

Everything that has to do with the air in cabin and air intake for engine fails. Have issues all the time with it , told I need to fix one part then that fails again. Can’t use the ac in this car more than half the time if not an issue arises. Now I can’t get my inspection because again the same codes: p0097, p0171,p11c3, p 2199 at first I had only an issue with the maf new one was placed and now all these errors popped up. The electrical also gave me issues before the lights are not as bright anymore in the car not the headlights. Too afraid to change them because I need the vehicle for my medical appointments and to pick up kids from school.

Engine valve cover explode.

The cars turbo system fails. This causes a loss of power when accelerating. Pulling out into traffic or merging onto the freeway are all unsafe now as the car suddenly doesn't accelerate. This can cause crashes. I have pulled out and assumed I was at a very safe distance only to have the car not pick up as it usually does. I feel very unsafe.

I purchased this vehicle almost three weeks ago…I’m assuming it’s out of warranty…j am spending out of pocket expenses to have this car repaired…. It has a faulty leakage in transmission that mechanics seem to can’t fix…. I need my car for transportation…. Atp I’m assuming the car is a lemon.

Started the purchase June 2022 when dealer said everything is good, carfax no accidents, good car, nothing wrong. Dealers had me drive mi to CT to get the car, had 5-y. O. Kid w/me. Brought car to mechanic when finally delivered July 6, ebrake almost gone; dealers had me drive w/my kiddo CT to mi with no ebrake on 6 speed turbo manual, wonderful. In writing said they would fix & some extras for all the issues they caused such as selling a vehicle w/o having title. Made it home in one peice. Next few weeks, car started shaking and stalling out losing complete power while driving, stopping at lights/signs, it hasn't stopped. Different smells of fluids coming inside ever since. Clouds of smoke coming from exhaust. Fuel seems to slip like sputtering/jolting, more smells coming in car. Check engine light on, went to advanced auto, showed me code has to do w/fuel/fuel tank & it showed dealer cleared out check engine without repairing. More research, they fraudulently passed the car for inspections/emissions & said it was good & passed, never received copies. They passed brakes when in writing they were to repair at no cost due to deceptive practices. No, nothing has been fixed; no, they never transferred title/registered vehicle. Now may 2023. Drove it now/then keep it going; mi awful winters. This winter heater went out for 3 days, no blower, no noise, magically started working. Roughly a dozen times when I shut it off, theres noises from front by grille like a ticking, no clue. I've drivien car 5,000 mostly from trip to get it. Dealers never provided the 3 special 10 yr warranties that car had. I found out, they were all expired, nothing I could do. They didn't disclose issues & 3 wks after purchase, accident on carfax. So much fraud, it is sickening. One of the dealers violated their ftc orders. Lies & lies, also @3 times stabilization/traction both need repairs then disappears 2 days. Loses power, definitely does not feel turbolike. Issues 7. 6. 22 & continue.

I had no heat for a long time, as well as the engine light constantly being on and never knowing why. There was a lag to accelerate. Also it would suddenly overheat and say turn off ac due to overheating, as well as suddenly fluctuate to cold and back to normal. I change the throttle body inlet heater hose to see if that would get it working. It did for a day. Then all over a sudden the same issues started happening. From what I can tell it is an extremely common issue that has not been address yet or had a recall yet. . . . The thermostat. That is the only thing it could be at this point. I am going to try and bleed out the coolant for air again. But other than that it is the thermostat, it is the only thing that covers every symptom and it is an extremely, well documented problem with these types of cars.

I've had this car for less than 2 months I've already spent $3,500 I've had to replace the thermostat the resvoir tank most oxygen sensors lower stream and upper stream now has a blown head gasket and a possible fuel pump.

It keep saying a/c off due to high engine temp but it stay in cold n I got coolant sensor radiator sensor all fixed n it keep sayin the same stuff it's giving me a head ache wen I go for long drives to mall or store it pops on.

I have filed a complaint 2 other times on my car from the power train to the electrical and now my radiator. Because of the date of my car, which is one week off, my car doesn't fall under all the recalls that have been made. Everything wrong with my car is a recall including the head gasket! I have paid to fix my car out of pocket every time and now the repair isn't worth fixing because I never know whats going to happen next! just like every other government agency NHTSA is controlled by the big corporations while the little guy gets screwed over! times are hard as is now throw in this plandemic and car problems life becomes unmanageable at times.

I purchased a car on December 19th 2019 I put $4,000 down on a 2012 chevy Cruze from a from a used car lot here in daytona beach florida I cannot get my oil change the screw that lets the oil out of the oil pan has been stripped and I was unable to get the oil changed because in order to do that they would have to break it and spot welding would need to be done also every time I shut my car off and go to turn it back on I have to get a jump my car battery loses its energy or whatever you want to call it so it loses power my battery the battery is 5 years old also my rotors are brand-new but my brake pads are bad and they would not when I say they I mean autoventure in holly hill florida where I bought the car will not give me a carfax instead they gave me another thing that's like carfax and it says that my car is full is and there's nothing wrong with it when indeed the motor itself is from a junkyard and they did not deny that so this is within the first three weeks of me having the car and I'm already seeing this many problems. Also I have an oil leak I was told to purchase a a cover to where you put the oil in the car cuz the cover might be old and it still might not be as good so I went to chevy dealership and purchase it for $28 only to find out that valve cover gasket also needs to be replaced so my car is leaking oil the oil change place where I've been taking my car's the last 6 years would not touch my car and give me an oil change due to the fact that the bolt at the bottom of the oil pan has been stripped so not only is my oil at 6% but now I can't get my oil changed because of it.

Replaced pcv valve assembly twice and still leaks oil from cover and cap. Runs rough especially when idling, bad gas mileage.

Low preassure on turbo, check engine light turns on, and low engine performance.

The vehicle will be dripping engine coolants. Hoses will malfunction, causing multiple replacement.

Pcv valve cover gasket keeps having leak issues. In three years I have replace three pcv valve cover gaskets. I have talked with the Chevrolet dealership and they admit that it's a design flaw problem. This should have been a recall and I should not have had to purchase this three times and have it put on one each time.

Catalytic converter, engine light on and sulpher smell.

Turbo charger valve failed causing multiple other issues. Car shuts off randomly. Stability track keeps coming on even after the wire to the battery was replaced.

I am having issues with my turbo. After taking it to my mechanic I am told that it is a common issue.

The car has had issues since I bought it. Everything from the transmission to the seatbelts to the engine to the brakes there is something wrong. My VIN number doesnt match the recalls but teverything that is wrong is recalled on the 2012 and 2013 but I missed the recall by a week? sounds like to me gm knew the most issues were on the car manaufactured when mine was and didnt want to fix the problem.

My transmission was shifting hard then I parked it got back in put in reverse and it won't move,it moved in drive so many feet making horrible noise and then went out of gear. . . Now won't move at all.

I got gas on June 1st and not even 15 miles afterwords my check engine light came on. I checked to make sure the gas cap was on properly and light still did not go off. I took car to get obdii read and it stated that the mass air flow sensor was bad and also the fuel injectors as well. One mechanic stated it was from bad gas but was unable to prove it. I have done personal research and found that the pcv is clogged and needs to be replaced or cleaned. The car proceeds to run "rough" and stalls when placed in park. I however don't notice a problem when in manual gear.

Car does not run right. When accelerating the car does not budge and stalls out. Found out if the ac is off it is less likely to stall out after stopping. Was told it is a possible clogged catalytic converter. The stabilitrak and traction control wanings pop up. Took it to auto zone and they told me it was bad gas. Something is off and it's not a easy diagnosis.

2012 Cruze lt. The third turbo was installed 2 days before extended warranty expired. It has 56668 miles now. I spent 4 hours putting glue putty in the cracks on the bottom intake manifold, to plenum junction corners of cylinders 2 and 4 because of the gm plastic shit, curing the low boost and lean mixture codes at idle, on easter. The first month I had the car the transmission would start in first skip second gear rev up then chirp the tires until it warmed up, and was fixed by a program change to a lesser version and now at the higher mileage it waits before it engages first at all. Another neat thing is to turn left at 5mph hard and feel the car do a jig to the right for an instant before continuing on with the turn. Lastly, the water pump was replaced along with a cracked water outlet but not the rotted recirculation overflow hose that broke at 4 am to my fishing hole in September. I can say that the 2017 Cruze must be better because the dumdums paid by the gm insurance company to change oil put more new oil in the motor without draining it first. No serious issues for a whole week I might be able to drive it by may it's been 5 � months since then. Fyi the dealership who performed this fancy work is not in riverton either.

Overheating. Loud noise in engine with loss of power that we determined to be the turbo. Cars breaks have been changed several times since purchase. Consistent warning lights on dash. The car has a very loud rattling sound when driving. It isn't as lound when sitting still at a redlight.

The car says in the instrument cluster "engine looses power" and to "service stabilitrac. " then I loose acceleration. I have to coast to the shoulder shut the car down and restart. It happens more often on the freeway which is super scary. This happens every time drive.

On August 19, 2017, I was on the road, drove passed south center mall when I felt that there was something wrong with my engine because it wasn't driving fast as usual. I pulled over to the side of the road, at inspirus credit union in tukwila to check the engine if it was okay when I smelled a faint scent of smoke. I drove back home to park it for fear of the engine exploding. Our family mechanic checked the engine and said that the fan is too loud as if something is causing it to be overworked. The engine fan has always been loud after my oil change on July 21, 2017. The engine light has not been turned off since the oil change and I know that there is something wrong with the vehicle. Also, I entered the VIN number online and it said that the recall on my car is incomplete. The dealer did not inform me about the recall nor mentioned anything about it when I bought it. They did not give me a written letter of the recall or even specified the recall being incomplete.

My 2012 chevy Cruze eco suddenly lost power and acceleration was very poor on 10/29/2016. Almost got hit trying to pull out from a stop sign because the power was no longer there to take off. After having an auto mechanic shop look at the car on 10/31/2016 we discovered that the oil line from the block or where the oil supply comes from for the turbo had been a plastic line that had melted and stopped oil from flowing to the turbo charger. This appears to be a poor design on gm's part to use plastic lines for something that will obviously be transferring hot oil. It seems to have caused the turbo to burn up and also created an exhaust leak . I am still waiting on a final price from the mechanic shop to find out how much damage was done. They have called me today 11/1/2016 and asked that I come in so they can show me more damage they have found as a result of this line melting. I have spoken to one of the owners at russell barnett family of dealerships and they were of no help stating that it is out of warranty. Really? it is a defective design flaw so why should I be having to pay for the repair? I would like some help with this issue please! I know I have 140000+/- miles on the car but it has been mostly highway miles and maintenance has always been done on the vehicle. I use this for my work and family vehicle so it is not driven hard or abused in anyway. I hate the fact of turning in a complaint that involves a dealer that I have recommended to so many people in the past but he was of no help at all and really showed no concern that there was an issue like this with a vehicle that he had sold.

Brought my car in for what looked like intake seals and found out that the intake manifold manifold is cracked. I called many other auto repair places and found that this is a massive problem and can only be gotten from the dealer and I will be getting one of the last in this area at the cost of $450. 00 plus time. The car started running ruff and has 9 different codes all relating to a lean condition.

Driving my car at about 25mph started to hear a rattle in it. When went to accelerate the car started to smoke and had no power. When idling you could hear the motor "work" and it had a jump in it. Only has 50,000 miles and has never been driven hard. Of course it's out of warranty now and I have no clue why it wouldn't accelerate and started smoking. The engine light came on and was still on when I left my car sitting on the side of the road.

The contact owns a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. While driving 30 mph depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle would not accelerate. The vehicle sputtered and stalled, and the service engine light illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the cam cover needed to be replaced and the fuel trim needed to be reset. The repairs were performed; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed again to the dealer. The contact stated that the stabilitrac warning light remained illuminated. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 60,000.

My engine light is on. I put gas in my vehicle and when I turn the key to start it, it hesitates to start then when pulling off it begins to jerk. . . . When at lights it sometimes hesitates to take off.

Tl-the contact owns a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that after filling the vehicle with fuel, the contact started the vehicle and it made a sputtering noise and began to shake. The contact stated that the engine warning indicator was consistently illuminated. The contact turned the key to the off position, however, the engine did not power off. It took several attempts to power the engine off. The contact pulled away from the gas pump and had to sit for approximately 5 minutes for the vehicle to stop shaking and sputtering. The failure recurred on several occasions when fueling the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and was diagnosed that an unknown sensor was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure 106,000. Sw.

I was driving the vehicle to work and the stabilitrak control and engine power loss kicks on to the vehicle and makes me have to control of the vehocle, I've almost caused several wrecks do to this happening, I've been in and out to the dealer several timesmall with this vehicle tomorrow I'm taking it in for the 7the time now this is a safety issue and it's putting me and my fiancã© life at risk, please some thing has to happen to get this taken care of!.

Driving on the highway at roughly 70mph when car shuddered, and lost power immediately. After this the car would not accelerate. Fortunately there were no vehicles directly behind me, so I was able to p;ull over to the side of the road. The check engine light was illuminated and the dashboard read three errors: "engine power is reduced", "service traction control", "service stabilitrack". After turning the car off, waiting, and turning back on the vehicle worked correctly, but the issue occurred after another 15 minutes on the road. I drove in the right lane the rest of the way home to ensure our safety, and this occurred 4 times in total. This was an extremely dangerous situation during a busy holiday travel weekend. Had this occurred at the wrong time, this could have been catastrophic. Quick research online has shown this to be an issue with the make and model, as many other people have reported this exact defect.

Took vehicle in for oil change, had to do "heavy engine repair" per technician, replaced water pump and seal as it was found leaking. Refilled with coolant.