general problems of the 2013 Chevrolet Suburban

I had to do two engine jobs in one year because oil pressure sensor switch keeps going off due to poor electrical in the vehicle I also had to buy oil pressure pump.

~tl-the contact bought a 2013 Chevrolet Suburban along with a warranty back 04/20. The contact stated that there was an oil pressure switch issue. The contact went back to the dealer and they told the contact to use the warranty he purchased with the vehicle. The contact discovered that the dealer told him they bought the warranty but the dealer did not buy the warranty at the time of the vehicle purchase. The dealer when told of this fact finally bought the warranty and then told the contact to wait 15 days to use it. The warranty company stated that they could not honor the warranty becuase the dealer did not bought the warranty at the time the contact bought the truck. The dealer stated that they will fix the vehicle then went back on their promise and would not deal with the contact. The contact was told not to call back by the dealer. The vehicle remains unrepaired while the contact still makes payments. The contact had not spoken to the manufacturer, the failure mileage was unknown. Tf.

Brakes light anti-lock/skid e-brake keeps activating, but does not show up as a code or problem. Intermittent code p015b and p015d at the shop sometimes this code does not appear or at different shop code is active. Brake light comes on when stationary and stays on. P code occurs when in motion. I have a syncup drive on my vehicle so I get the p codes, brake code never comes up same when at the shop.

The engine started knocking very loudly. We brought it to our local mechanic and were told that it needed a new engine. He also said many 2013 Suburban engines had been needed to be replaced due to poor metal used in the manufacturing process.

Bought 2013 Suburban brand new and in 2018, on a trip to the mountains for fall break, the car quit with no warning signs, in the middle of the night. The car would not accelerate when gas pedal was pressed and rpm gauge needle “fluctuated erratically” until car came to a complete stop in the middle of the highway! it was a scary and dangerous situation because it was late at night and we were in the mountains with no phone signal. Cars were coming and going both ways on highway. Eventually people stopped to help us get Suburban towed to local Chevrolet dealership and we had to rent a vehicle to get us to where we were initially going to start our fall break. The dealership called a day later to tell us that there were “lose metal pieces” in the transmission, which meant the transmission had to be replaced. We spent $5000 on that new transmission! it was the only way for us to come back home. The car was out of warranty therefore, the manufacturer did not offer any help! this was a very expensive, frustrating, and dangerous fall break in 2018. Please help! we deserve reimbursement because 7 years later, we bought another 2020 Suburban, also brand new and the same thing happened to transmission, last week! we spent $6000 to replace that transmission!.

Paint flakes leaving vehicle looking cheap transmission burnt in 5 yrs even though proper precautions was taken to ensure no failure door trimming made out of plastic handle for using for in and out unmoveable until repairs to transmission is done.

Engine died on highway lost all power and no steering. Was told by dealer it was a bad neg battery cable. It is shocking that a bad battery cable can cause a deadly situation. Certainly someone will die from this defect if they havent already. Dealer claimed to repair the vehicle and it happened only a few miles after I picked up the vehicle. Error code was p0601. They have the car for repair again, but I refuse to every drive the death trap. I have had 20 Suburbans and I hope this is an isolated defect not one that affects all Suburbans. This defect is extremely dangerous. Someone will certainly die from this defect.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban have an electrical and transmission clunking problem for the past 2 years, and GMC don't want to do anything about it. Krystal dealership in brooklyn, NY and manfredi dealership in staten island, NY, have no customer service what's so ever.

Traveling in the right lane of a four lane highway. Maneuvered into the left lane and accelerated under full throttle to pass another vehicle. After moving back into the right hand lane and releasing the accelerator pedal the vehicle continued to accelerate. Depressed accelerator pedal several times through its full range of motion to ensure that it was operating freely but that resulted in no change. Vehicle did not respond to accelerator pedal input changed. Seemed to be stuck at wide open throttle. Applied full brake pressure as hard as possible to slow vehicle as it continued to try to accelerate. Brakes began to get hot and brake fade was imminent. Shifted transmission selector up into the neutral position. Engine momentarily overran to the rev limiter and then settled at 4000 rpm. Continued to apply brakes to a stop while in neutral. After being stopped for approximately 30 seconds the engine slowed to normal idle speed. Throttle seemed to actuate normally again. Shifted transmission to drive and proceeded to the dealer. Approximately 30 seconds later the dash indicator "grade braking on" appeared in the mfd and then disappeared. I was traveling on flat ground at approx. 20 mph and not depressing the brake pedal. I confirmed that the tow/haul mode was not selected on the transmission. Proceeded to dealership and awaiting repair notes.