Alternator/generator/regulator problems of the 2012 Chrysler 200

My passenger side window does not come back up after being let down, using the driver window button or the passenger button. I have replaced the motor, the switch and regulator but same issue. I have research and looked online where this seems to be a common problem even after the individuals replaced all parts from 2004- up until now.

The battery light in my car continues to come on even after having the battery replaced as well as the alternator replaced. Also the internal lights inside of my car began to blink like crazy, air conditioner was coming on/off, and the lights even shut off at one point almost as if the car couldn't control itself. I do not feel safe driving it.

Tl the contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that on several occasions, the vehicle failed to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the alternator however, the failure recurred. The cause of the failure was not determined. The local dealer and manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

I bought my car brand new in 2012 from chryaler Dodge and Jeep in springfield PA. I babe around 96,000 miles on my car and this will now be the third alternator that has been put in my vehicle. From what I know, the alternator should last up between 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I believe there has to have been a defect with my specific car. Along with some of the other recall items I am now reading about with my model, having kids, I am increasingly concerned about my health and saftey driving this vehicle. I want to know what can be done about this on your end.

Engine light came on, had battery replaced since the battery was about 6 years old. Car has only 29582 miles on it. Seemed to fix then while driving 3 miles later battery light came on again. Decided to take to dealer the mext morning. Then while driving to dealership the car began to rapidly lose functionality while warning lights were appearing on the dashboardone by one until it car lost power while driving. The time from no warning lights to complete loss of electrical functionality was approximately 2 minutes. The shut down included an abrupt loss of power steering and braking capabilities while driving on a busy street during day. I was able to quickly compensate for the loss of power steering and braking and stop the vehicle while drifting into a gas station parking lot. Attempts to restart the vehicle involved no clicking or the engine attempting to turn over. Had car towed to dealership. I can only assume ot may be the alternator since battery is brand new now. I am wondering if this is part of campaign #17v-435 but my car is a Chrysler 200 3. 6 engine 6 cylinder touring convertible and that recall does not show 200's on the notice. I have not gotten any recall noticies for this type of problem. . I bought car brand new. I am the only owner and faithfully take my car to the dealer for maintenance and oil changes.

Alternator dies at 78,000 miles. Heat no longer works due to heating core at 60,000 miles.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. When the contact shifted the gear into the park position, the instrument panel gauges fluctuated independently and the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to restart on the first attempt; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to an independent tow company (718-828-1500) who informed the contact that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired due to the quote provided. The manufacturer and dealer were not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 101,580.

To start off the abs and traction control will not stop turning off and on even after replacing everything . Almost all the time when it rains they will kick in the e brake and start grinding . No matter how many times I change the brakes and rotors and master control they never stop squeaking . Lastly almost all the electrical problems started after the alternator failed and I had to replace it . My speedometer just died on me today and I have no clue how that happened .

While driving the car. . The cars electrical system stopped working. While driving on the freeway the car shut down and was almost in severe car accident because of the issue. There is a new battery and the alternator has been checked and is in great working condition.

Passenger side pushes out cold air, terrible to drive in and uncomfortable. Battery has been replaced 4 times in the last 2 years. Alternator as well. While driving to work, my windshield frosted over from being so cold and I had to veer off the road to avoid getting into an accident.

While driving the battery light came on and electrical systems began to fail. Radio, abs system, windows and ac all shut off. The car failed to accelerate properly and engine would not shift gears. Braking and steering systems became compromised before car completely stalled and coasted to stop on side of road. Approximately 2-3 minutes from battery light going on to the car becoming totally nonresponsive. Car would not start, unless jumped. Required tow. Dealership states the issue was an alternator that shorted, and in turn burned out the battery. Required the replacement of both the alternator and the battery at a cost of approximately $1100. 00 (before negotiated discount of 10%).

While driving, the car began to rapidly lose functionality while warning lights were appearing on the dashboard until it abruptly shut down while driving in traffic. The time from no warning lights to complete loss of functionality was approximately 10-15 seconds. The shut down included an abrupt loss of power steering and braking capabilities while driving on a busy street at night. I was able to quickly compensate for the loss of power steering and braking and stop the vehicle while avoiding a crash, but just barely. Thankfully, I broke down next to two police officers who helped push my vehicle onto the side of the road. These officers may be able to attest to the fact that no noises or abnormal operation of the vehicle was apparent before the abrupt shut-off while driving. Attempts to restart the vehicle involved no clicking or the engine attempting to turn over. The vehicle is currently being repaired, but the preliminary diagnosis is one of a faulty alternator. I will attempt to retain the faulty alternator from the repair center. I had only started the car 2-3 minutes before the incident and there were no apparent electrical issues (engine struggling to start, lights dimming, etc. ) while starting the car or during operation.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. While the contact's husband was driving various speeds, the battery died and the mirrors, lights, and horn failed. The vehicle was taken to hilton head Chrysler Jeep Dodge ram fiat (265 drivers way, hardeeville, SC 29927) where it was diagnosed that the alternator, generator, and battery failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that the VIN was not included in NHTSA campaign number: 14v634000 (electrical system); however, the failure later recurred and the vehicle was taken back to the same dealer where it was diagnosed that the failure recurred; however, the vehicle was now included in NHTSA campaign number: 17v435000 (electrical system). Both the dealer and manufacturer stated that the repair parts were not yet available. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 59,914.