Engine Belts And Pulleys problems of the 2006 Chrysler Pt Cruiser

No headlight, high beam or low beam or turn signal right side. This began about 6/2017 when replacing bulbs did not work. A few months later the horn also stopped working. Fuel gauge stopped reading and sometimes reads full then drops toward e then may show half. Never a constant reading anymore. All fuses and relays test good. Tipm appears to be in good shape, no visible damage or defects to circuit boards. No good voltage to head lamps or turn signal (meter shows 11. 5 volts, but appears to be a potential and not a good voltage. Cannot light a bulb but still shows the voltage on the meter), grounds meter good to chassis. Wiring harness appears good with no indication of damage. Runs very rough and engine light codes a cylinder 3 misfire. Runs smooth under acceleration but very rough on idle and sometimes stalls when stopping or at red lights. I have spent several hundred dollars already on timing belts, alternators, injectors and other maintenance procedures. Dealers wont look at it without several hundred dollars to run diagnostics again and again. I suspect tipm and pcm to be defective units throughout Chrysler products. You cannot drive at night because I cant get the lights to work. Car is currently parked because it is unusable and unsafe to drive.

Have replaced crank shaft seal 3 times and each time the seal is blown. Dealers are aware of this issue and provide a kit $787 plus $2,000 to install) that replaces the faulty design of the crank shaft, crank shaft bearings, connecting rod bearings, and timing belt and the dealers do not gaurantee that replacing these will resolve the issue. Spoke to Chrysler customer complaint line and there is nothing that Chrysler has been willing to do as of this date unless enough consumers file a complaint. Reading online, there are tens of thousands of consumers with the same issue. The issue is common in all 2. 4l size engines in various makes, models and years including Jeep, Dodge and Chrysler. Chrysler apparently corrected this design flaw in their engines in later years beyond 2007, however, have not offered a solution for prior years. I highly recommend posting this issue (as thousands of others have done) on related auto mechanical websites pertaining to this known mechanical flaw with the engine design.

Electrical dash board, gauges - rpm, gas, temp, go around up and down wildly causes sudden deceleration. All trouble lights come on, battery, seat belt, oil, air bag and go on then off. I had this happened 7 yrs ago and dealer would not repair until dash board was not working. Then dash board completely stopped working and dash board was replaced under warranty. Now it is acting up again. Reading all the complaints. There are over 10 complaints from all over the county about the same issue. Today I was able to finally take video/picture of the trouble lights coming on and off. The dials and lights were going on and off going all the way around and all the way back down again. There are so many complaints about this unsafe issue.

Driving vehicle cuts off when I stop. On highways. . . . Engine revs up car go faster like throttle or gas petal stuck have to apply brakes automatic transmission sometimes won't change gears I have to restart car about three times runs good for couple days does same has been in shop 4 times had timing belt and motor mount replaced. New ignition switch, not key side battery check eng. And battery light back on dont communicate with shop diagnostic machine. . Still having problems with gears afraid of this car and has not finish paying for it yet.

I was driving home about 7pm doing about 25mpg when my car shut off,when it shut off it sounded like a quite snap,I tride to start it and it was making like a whirilling sound so I stop trying to start it and towed it home and found out it was a broken timing belt.

While highway driving, seat belt light comes on, then instrument panel lights go crazy and vehicle then shuts down - have to put in neutral to restart engine again. I see there are numerous complaints on the same issue. Dangerous situation and Chrysler needs to address the issue. Too expensive to play hit or miss with a dealership. I am frustrated and worried for safety when driving. Happens on highway and city driving.

2006 Pt Cruiser, approx. 55,000 miles. First the seat belt warning light flashes on, then all the warning lights on the dashboard come on. All my gauges drop except the fuel gauge. The speedometer gauge moves up and down after dropping. It feels like power is lost to the engine when it is happening. Within seconds, the warning lights go out and the gauges stabilize and things are normal. Sometimes this happens only once while driving, other days it happens 4-5 times in a row. I am told it is a common problem with the 2006 model. Why is there no recall or repair thru Chrysler?.

Failed crank seal. Car went in for routine inspection at dealership. They said it needed a new motor mount. When they returned the car, they mentioned it had a leak at the crank seal. We took the car home and it was heavily leaking oil, so we took it to another local garage. They "repaired" the seal, along with things like a new timing belt, etc "while we are in there" and returned the car at a cost of $1700. Drove it for only a few days while driving the oil light came on a few miles from home. When we got the car home there was nearly no oil left in the car, the crank seal had blown/ burned out again. Towed to garage. Told by garage and also dealership that it could not be repaired, the crank bearing was worn and would "walk out" and the same thing would happen. Was told it needed a new engine. (at 39k miles???) my brother removed the engine himself, took it to a machine shop who removed the crank and used some sort of kit to repair the engine. The cost was $600 parts, $600 labor. The car recently was put back in service but is not trusted and the engine light is lit up. The car was not driven hard in its life (driven my by 70 yr old mother) and had regular sercice.

I purchased a 2006 Pt Cruiser touring edition in September of 2010, less then one month later the car began pouring out oil. Took to a mechanic who stated it was either the crank shaft or cam shaft seals. Called the dealership where car was purchased and they said they would make the repairs. The car was returned within a week with a new head gasket, cam shaft seal and crank shaft seal and since it was right at 62,000 miles a new water pump and timing belt. 1 month later the car was again leaking oil. Car is in shop currently, not sure what they have decided to do with the vehicle.

13,090 miles my wife reported that the engine oil light began to flash as she drove down the driveway. I checked the oil and it did not touch the dipstick. I added 2 quarts and started the engine to find that it was leaking oil out the accessories end of the engine. The car was transported to the dealership. The crankshaft end seal was identified as being expelled from the timing cover. 1st repair attempt: upon test driving the vehicle, the crankshaft seal was again expelled from the timing cover. The cause was identified as excessive crankshaft end play resulting in the crankshaft end seal being forced out of the timing cover. 2nd attempt: the engine short block was replaced and the vehicle made available for pick-up on 10/16/2007. On 1/26/2009 at 32,022 odometer with 18,932 miles on the replacement short block and 13 miles into a 15 mile trip, the rear tires began slipping as I traveled around corners. As I slowed to enter the driveway, I could smell the odor of burnt motor oil. Engine oil was coming from the accessories side of the engine and the oil no longer touched the engine oil dipstick. The car was towed to the dealership on Jan. 27, 2009 for repair. The crankshaft end seal was noted as leaking when in reality the seal had to have been dislodged from the timing cover for the volume of engine oil that was lost in 2 miles. The crankshaft seal and drive belts were replaced. The root cause was identified as either the weather being too cold or the fact that the dealer service rep had seen all kinds of strange failures throughout his career. The dealership is trying to get the car beyond the 36,000 mile warranty period so they don't have to deal with the failure when it happens again.

The contact owns a 2006 Chrysler Pt Cruiser. The contact stated that while driving approximately 70 mph, a loud popping noise was heard from the front end of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where the contact was advised that there was oil leaking from the engine. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the alternator belt, axle drive seal, camshaft seal, front main seal, and the serpentine belt needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The approximate failure mileage was 15,844 and the current mileage was 38,000.

Purchased Mar 2007 the Pt Cruiser convertible gt. Was getting 19mpg maximum. With 13,000 miles, the crankshaft seal on the accessories end was pushed out by too much crankshaft end play. 4 quarts low on oil when it flashed the oil light. Car was hauled to the dealership where they put another seal in it and that one failed while the dealer still had the car. They replaced the short block cam belt and seals. The cam belt made excessive noise on start-up for the first month. I now have 17,500 on it and the maximum fuel mileage is 16. It will be back in the dealership looking for a vacuum leak and checking to see if Chrysler has a new fuel map for the computer. Complaint is fuel mileage and engine defect that causes the engine to lose its oil which could cause the car to lose control from engine oil on the tires or from the engine locking up.