general problems of the 2004 Chrysler Sebring

Driving on i70 in indiana my rpm’s began to accelerate and I hit my breaks and once I got to 30 mph my breaks went out. I looked online and one after another of complaints for exactly this has been posted in rooms. It was towed to our mechanic and hopefully he can figure out why.

Random stalling upon deceleration with no warning lights after stalling (as if the engine thinks it is still running). Occurs at low speed. Sometimes the engine will surge when the rpm drops off instead of stalling. I have almost run into other cars when the surging happens. The stalling occurs randomly and is becoming more frequent. A scan of the internet shows many others with same issue. No cel.

The contact owns a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power with smoke coming from underneath the hood. Smoke then entered the cabin of the vehicle. No warning light was illuminated. Additionally, the odometer was inoperable. The contact restarted the vehicle; however, the failure recurred. The contact stated that her daughter had asthma; however, the contact and her two children did not receive medical attention. The dealer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact to tow the vehicle to their location. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown. The VIN was unavailable.

Had fuel pump replaced a couple months ago. Then at gas station wouldnt start at all, had a tow truck take it to a mechanic and that mechanic tapped on gas tank and it started and said fuel pump needs to be replace so I called the dealer where I bought it because the new fuel pump had a warranty. They said they found nothing wrong with fuel pump but found problem wirh #2 selinoid and they replaced it. Two weeks later ths car was driving fine but when I got home and turned off the car for a couple hours it started right up. So I turned it off and on a couple times then the engine surged then hestitated then died. It did it twice after starting it then turning itvon about 5 times trying to find out what could be wrong with it. I bought the car in February 2017. I had both strut mounts fixed, fuel pump, an air valve from coolant do not remember exact name, #2 selinoid now this problem. I still owe on this car and its not reliable and scared to drive it and wreck.

Engine seized up while driving it. I was on the parkway and this put me in a very dangerous situation. No lights or warning at all. . . . Car was well mainted and oil changed every 3,000 miles. Sludge build up in engine and I was advised this was a defect on these engines. I was advised by the mechanic that changing the oil regularly would not of prevented the build up, this is a defect and is happening to these engines.

Electrical and engine problems defective engine caused car to cut off intermittently.

While driving home on the freeway my oil light came on and then within a couple of minutes the car stopped, I did not know what was happening, the battery was fine because the radio and head lights were working, I knew had oil, my husband came out and tried to jump start it but had no luck, had it towed to Chrysler dealership and they said that the engine was seized. I had no warning sign that anything was wrong with my engine, the mechanic said that the oil level was fine and that it look pretty clean as well. They told me a need a new engine at a cost of $5500 for a used one with a 6 mo. Parts only warranty or a factory reconditioned one at a cost of $7200. I can not afford either, and still owe aprox $6500 on my car loan. I found a web site called auto beef and with little surprise there were several complaints of the same problems. I honestly believe that this is a faulty product. Now I have to pay for a car I cannot use or invest almost $7200 plus tax on a car that isn't worth that much to put into it another $7200. 00.

Oil sludge in my lower engine. Chrysler 2. 7 v6 engine. I am being told I need to pay $8000. 00 for a new engine in my 2004 Sebring with only 48,xxx miles on it.

The motor in my 2004 Sebring failed on my way to work one morning almost a month ago. I took it to the dealer who immediately asked me about oil changes. I said that I didn't have any receipts but could find them at home if necessary. 4 days later they wanted the receipts. I faxed them over and they said they were not sufficient and that I would have to pay $7000 for a new motor because they would not fix it under the warranty. They said that there was sludge in the motor and it had to be replaced along with the timing chain. They said that the receipts I had sent them were not in the proper format and they would not accept them. I told them that those were the receipts I was given by a licensed garage in the state of nevada and they could take it up with them. They called the garage and wanted them to submit new receipts in a different format. According to the garage they were very rude and condescending and the garage agreed to give them new receipts. The new receipts were faxed over and after 4 days when I did not hear from the dealer I called them and they said they never got the new receipts. I asked why they didn't call me and they said that it was not their job to track down my receipts. I called the garage and they faxed them again and this time it took the dealer 3 days to acknowledge receipt of them. They said that everything was in order and someone from Chrysler would be out to look at it. 3 days later they called again and said they would not fix it under warranty because the oil filter in the car did not match the receipts. I now have a 2004 Sebring with 41,000 miles on it (it had 22,000 when I bought it last year) that needs a $7000 motor. The dealer will not give me any satisfaction and I have called Chrysler 4 times and they don't care.

: the contact stated the engine developed sludge causing the engine to die. The service dealer determined the contact must not have changed the oil often enough. The contact stated the oil was changed every 3000 miles.

The problem begins in this order of occurrence: I can immediately feel a drag like the engine is working really hard. The tachometer goes up to 3 or 3. 5. Shortly thereafter I feel a strong vibration and I can't pick up speed. The car starts bucking. It just feels like I am braking and accelerating at the same time. The tachometer starts fluctuating from 1 to 3 and sometimes up to 4. The dashboard lights start to flicker. I start losing power and begin to decelerate rapidly and the speedometer drops to about 10 mph within a few seconds. Trying to accelerate does nothing except make it buck even more. There were two times when a was almost rear ended, once when I was doing 55 and suddenly lost power and the car behind me had to avoid hitting me by going off the side of the road and another time while accelerating in the process of making a left turn on a green arrow, the car lost power and 3 cars behind me had to slam on their brakes and swerve out of the way. Everyone was apparently paying attention both times so there were no collisions, or damage to anyone's vehicle. This problem is completely intermittent. Updated.

1) parking gear gets stuck in gear and will not come out of gear at times. 2) even when car in park the key will not come out or go into the access key mode. 3) car cuts off at the spare of the moment with no notice and no indication why.

When the air conditioner is on and the brakes are applied engine revs high. It is an intermittent, but dangerous problem. Driver has to put the vehicle into neutral to avoid an accident. Consumer almost crushed some pedestrians against the cross traffic. This failure occurred three to four times in four days.