general problems of the 2007 Dodge Caliber - part 1

My car is at 69739 miles and the control arms and the front and rear subframe is rotted out.

Premature rust on rear subframe.

Massive amount of shaking and vibrating when vehicle is at idle. Subframe is rotting and rusting away and causing rust holes in the subframe. Vehicle is currently in operation daily. Unsafe to operate in its current condition. Will need fixed via recall.

The window regulators of this car (& other vehicles of the same model) is a poor product of productivity. The cable wires that hold the window to guide the window up & down are known to & have become tangled up around the component that is said to properly wrap up the guided cable wires in the correct placement for the windows to continue to be able to roll up & down as intended. It's not just one door, it is literally every single door in this vehicle that has this issue. When I decided to try & save a little bit of money & get some used window regulators, I go to a salvage yard that had another Dodge Caliber (different model, how ever, same window regulators) just to find upon inspection, that every single door has a spoon in between the window & the rubber guard piece. Took the door panel off to further inspect & that vehicle had the same issue I have at this very moment. . . Cable wires completely tangled up and completely non salvageable. Removed the spoon & the window fell down. Now I understand that it doesn't sound like a safety issue but when you are driving down the highway, doing the speed limit, and your window falls down, it's very startling and honestly a distraction while driving. Not only is that a distraction but have you ever had a bird fly into your car, from the hole that was once a window? talk about a distraction. It's like a bee flying into your helmet while riding a motorcycle or 4wheeler. Ah! main focus is that flying object to come out, so you try to roll down the other windows only to remember after pushing the buttons that, OH wait, they won't roll down. Ever since the window fell, not only is that a safety issue for the ones in my car, now it's a safety issue for those driving onside of me till I can get onto the shoulder, if there is one. And hopefully the weather is nice yes, it has been confirmed & inspected by an independent service center, & yes it is available for inspection upon request. No warning lamps.

Rear suspension rusted and broke during operation; control arm, tie rod and/or wheel bearings rusted and broke during operation causing vehicle to lose control.

Front and rear subframes, crossbars are rusted and rotted. This car is available upon request. This is a safety hazard that can result in death. The subframes holds the engine and tires. If the engine falls out of the car while driving it could be fatal. The problem has been confirmed by an independent service center car x. Their were no warning lamps.

The electronic throttle control went out on me as I was entering the freeway. The etc is basically the car losing all power but the vehicle does not shut off only the gas peddle loses all power. It was very scary when your litteraly carrying your entire family including your doggy.

Car squeaks and clunks. Rear suspension components are extremely rusted. Feels like car is fish tailing while driving. Was driving from work and lost all control of the car. Speed was about 25mph.

Incident happened oct. 2, 2020. . . I was driving across an intersection, my wheel began to shake and I had no control over the vehicle. . . Very terrifying!! made it thru the intersection, was able to get of the road. . . When the mechanic (the man that pushed my car back to my residence) took a look under the bottom. . . It was totally rotted out, which in fact caused my wheel to detach form the vehicle . . . I could have lost my life, now I am out of a vehicle no money and I have to pay insurance. . . Please I need help!! yur abrupt attention in this matter is greatly appreciated.

The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. So I replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. I saw its a recall on the 2007 Dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem . . Its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family.

I washed my car for the first time and that is when I noticed my cars frame is rusted out. There is a big hole in the middle of my frame that is near the motor. I have to drive it and it sounds like it's going to break in half. It is worst when I hit a bump in the road, like speed bumps. My car has 106k miles the body has little to no rust. I've owned it only a few months.

My 2007 Dodge Caliber's subframe is severely rusted and there's less then 80,000 miles on the car. A car that new should not rust so bad in such a short amount of time. The warranty on the car should be a recall because the subframe is so rusted that it's dangerous and too unsafe to drive anywhere. In addition to the car being a safety hazard, the subframe is very expensive to fix thanks to the amount of time it takes to remove the subframe. With the subframe gone bad, the rusted out subframe also damages attached parts of the car. The struts in the rear and front have gone bad due to the subframe's erosion.

While driving at normal speed limits 35-45 vehicle seems to be off balance as if it is going to fishtail or I will lose control of the vehicle. I'm not sure of what this issue is but, I have seen previous recalls with this issue and I want to have this issue fixed if possible.

Failed state inspection do to rusted front and rear sub frame with perforation . Vehicle has 138 321 miles. Reference Chrysler action # 23-012-14. Recall/extended warranty.

Rear crossmember subframe rusted and broken causing driveshaft and the rear differential to shift during acceleration. Noticed a thumbing sound when driving on local city street at approximately 25 mph on Dec. 12, 2018.

Struts and ball joints have been replaced 5 times since owning this car the past 5 years. Currently being repaired after subframe broke while I was driving. Did some research and apparently this is a huge issue. Not only while I was driving when it broke, I had my kids with me. While making a left hand turn onto a busy street I heard a loud 'snap' and lost all control of my car.

Yes my daughter has a 08 Dodge Caliber but the manufacturer date is 11 07 the engine cradle is completely rusted out. Mechanic said this is a serious safety issue. He said poor ~metal quality causes this. She needs help with this. She is still making payments on this. She is afraid to drive it. The car is setting now.

My car has had electrical issues and most all the Calibers do also has transmission issues which has had multiple complaints Dodge refuses to answer or fix any of the cars or issue recalls they have been made well aware if you check forums as well you can see the difficult times other people have had and the dangerous situations.

I bought this car, and I found out that my car recalled several items. I just wanted to know if they were fix. How do I found out if they were fix or not. My number is 253 561 5398.

Tl- the contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving 30 mph the contact heard a abnormal noise on drivers rear side wheel coming from underneath vehicle, in addition the steering wheel started vibrating. The contact was able to drive and parked vehicle home. The contact inspected vehicle front and noticed the crossmember was rusted. The vehicle was not diagnosed by dealer. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 131,000. As.

Took car in for inspection and was told by mechanic that the frame was shot, totally rusted out and could break anytime.

Car stopped while driving several times and then would t start at all. Replaced fuse and it ran for a little bit and then wouldn't accelerate over 40. After getting back home engine wouldn't start at all or it would take almost 30 minutes to try and it would sometimes fire up. Now it will not start at all. Starter is new and the only other thing we can think is maybe electrical. That and the lack of acceleration are major problems and it needs to be addressed!.

My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once I went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said I needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while I was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ecm and they had to order the part. I got my car back on Thursday June 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on June 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because I'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and Dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.

Thought I had a loose belt called dealership where I bought car told to Dodge dealership I did that $90. 00 service fee said I needed new alternator $1,086. 00, I could not afford that took it to America's they said for $615. 00 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077. 00. I could only get a loan for $1,000. 00 so the tie rods I cannot get. After the Dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did. I bought the car I had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now I only $75,000 miles on car. My car always ran smooth on highways and city streets . There was just a noise on my car. The car ran great. People could hear the noise also as I am deaf so I could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on. I had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.

My car loss speed when you drive it for more than 50 minutes end then I have to wait for 20 minutes while the temperature down.

I have come across two vehicles now that were both known for k-frame/sub-frames rusting out and both have recalls for this issue but this specific VIN on both of these dont qualify for this issue. Both of these vehicles have no rust anywhere on the under body but yet the k-frame on them are completely rusted out and both have broke at the a-arms. How is it that the consumers are being aloud to only fix this issue on "some" vins and not others when its the same exact issue??? why is it that they are aloud to continue to pt the same crap part on the vehicle instead of fixing the problem that is causing it to rust out. I will put both VIN's below for you to examine. 2007 Dodge Caliber - 117k miles 2008 Jeep patriot - 54k miles.

Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by instability. . . Car unsafe to drive. Car just purchased from unsavory car dealer. . .

My car hesitates when going up hill . It looses all power and only drives 5-10 mph and wont gain any speed till im on flat ground or heading down hill.

My mother took her car to her local auto mechanic in town because the muffler was rattling. The mechanic told her the car was unsafe and not drivable because the frame is totally rotted. The car frame has sank and now is hitting the exhaust system. That what was causing the rattle. The mechanic was able to poke a screw driver thru the frame tube. Mom has been told by her mechanic and a another car dealer that the car was worth less and not drivable. Very frustrated I called Dodge customer service to try and understand how a 2007 car was not drivable and worthless. Dodge customer service stated to bring the car to a Dodge dealer and that they wanted to get her back on the road right away. We brought the car to the ramsey Dodge dealer, same place where she purchased the car. The dealer told us that Dodge has a campaign on this exact problem, of rotted frame tubes and that her extended warranty was still good for three additional months. We have been denied a rental car until we agree to pay for additional rusted/rotted parts and labor to make the necessary rotted frame repairs. The estimate is for $1,191. 00 in parts and $910. 00 in labor plus tax of $210. 00. This is the same labor that would have to be performed with the rotted frame tube repair. The additional parts that they say are required is because they are also to rusted/rotted to be reused. This is unconscionable. Dodge and the Dodge dealer are trying to take advantage of my mother. She needs this car. Robert is the dealer service writer and the case # is 30051333. Her car has been at the dealer since 9/2/2016. I will attach a photo of the estimate. These vehicles are unsafe and should be removed from the road before someone is killed.

The horn stop working on my 2007 Dodge Caliber I would like to know if there any recall on this.

Hello, I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber . I was driving back from upstate NY to CT and the overheating transmission came on . Then it started winning , it lost speed even though I pressed the pedal to the floor . The rpms went sky high to almost 6, but I was moving slow . Sometimes my back widows don't go up or down . Passenger head light don't work . . I just want to know what's happening . Then I drive it to my mechanic and they check it next day and they say its fine.

Engine cradle completely rusted. Car is not driveable. Took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. Was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.

Rcvd a letter in 2013 regarding front and rear cross members needing an inspection & possible repairs. I did not get this inspected as recommended. I went today to have car pre-inspected for PA inspection & was told what mechanic called front sub-frame was rusted through & extremely weak and the rear wasn't far from being rusted through. Also warned if I was in an accident it would fold because of being weak & makes it dangerous to drive. Called local Dodge dealer & Dodge's corporate customer service & I couldn't get in to have Dodge inspect for 10 days. Hopefully the "cross members" & what my mechanic calls "sub-frame" is all the same and is covered under 10 yr extended warranty. Https://customerconnect. Custhelp. Com/app/mobile/fiat/b2c_detail/a_id/24689.

My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes p2006, p1607, p0722, p0717. I changed all codes except p1607 because they were cheaper. The pcm runs 299. 00 or more and I cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if I need to re program the pcm? where can I get this done? the nearest Dodge dealer is in crossville, TN, a 45 minute drive and I am scared to drive this thing. I swear, I wish I never would have bought it, worst car ever. Please help me get this running right again, I am still paying for it. It has been parked since March 2016.

Husband was driving our 2007 Dodge Caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second u-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.