general problems of the 2007 Dodge Caliber - part 2

The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and I keep losing power to my car. It starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. I have stalled several times. This is very concerning as I have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. I am a single parent and help is not always close.

Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars. This is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.

P2004 Dodge p2004 Dodge - intake manifold runner control stuck open read more:. . Read more...

Driving home from work, right headlight stopped working. Bought replacement bulbs, they do not work. Reading up, seems to be the tipm module. I cannot afford to replace this (over $1200). Dashboard information lights (such as brake and tpm) come on and go off indiscriminately.

Engine cradle is completely rusted out on our 2007 Dodge Caliber sxt. I have never seen something like this on a car that's not to old. Looking at the engine cradle it has a hole about 12 inches round and along the engine cradle support or whatever its called that sticks up in the air welded to the cradle.

I was traveling on I-40 when I hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, TN to jamestown, TN. . I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it. It pulled 4 codes and they are as follows. . . P2006 intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15 p1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722 output shaft speed sensor p0717 turbine input shaft speed sensor now as I said, my car seems to run fine and I have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can I do to reset the codes, I already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can I do? thank you cindy jeffers.

My sub frame was crumbling the mechanic said ! I brought it in to the mechanics garage, for noise in front end mechanic says the sub frame is eaten away so unsafe to drive he wouldn't let me take the car, he couldn't believe it didn't fall apart while I was driving it . . What ! I take care of my car I had no idea ,this should not have happened this car is not old !.

Upon driving home from work in February of 2015, I noticed a horrible nose coming from the front of my car. As the days progressed, the nose had become worse. I had assumed there was a problem with the struts and had them replaced right away. My father in law, a mechanic, saw that the front sub frame cross member is completely rusted out. I was then told by several mechanics that the car is unsafe to drive due to the amount rust on the sub frame and the high risk of the cross member breaking thus causing an accident. After much research, it has come to my knowledge that this is a manufacturers problem and nothing has ever been done about it. The a/c unit is located right above the cross member. This unit is leaking water onto the sub frame thus causing the part to rust.

We started the vehicle using the remote start, and then I inserted the keys in the ignition and turned them to disengage the automatic shutoff. Then placed our 3yr old in child seat and closed both doors on the passenger side. I was walking around the car to get in the drivers seat and heard the automatic locks engage. I was locked out with our 3yr old locked inside a running vehicle. Had to call emergency services to have them unlock the car. Never heard of a vehicle's automatic locks engaging with the ignition engaged and running.

Please find the enclosed pictures and an invoice for the cost of labor to repair my 2007 Dodge Caliber (contact with email address so I can provide photos. ) the part was a k-bar, which according to my mechanic should never have been in this disrepair with only a little over 100,000 miles. I am privileged to have a mechanic who is also a maine state inspection station to have found this defective part on my vehicle this preventing a serious situation to develop. My understanding is Toyota has recalled this similar part for repair. Your attention to this matter and concerns would be greatly appreciated. Thank-you.

My total integrated power module (tipm) is out! my left head lights wont work, my horn goes off at random times, my airbag lights keep flashing, my wiper blades sometimes do not work. The car acts like its completly possessed! this is a definite safety issue and a known problem with this model! something needs to be done before someone dies!.

I own two 2007 Dodge Calibers. Both purchased new in 2007. One fwd (sxt model), one awd (r/t model). I received a notice from Chrysler in late may 2014 that they were extending the warranty period on the front and rear cross members of the fwd sxt Caliber due to premature corrosion. They recommended having the dealer inspect these parts yearly. I believed I would receive a notice for the awd r/t model eventually since I purchased that one several months after the first. When I did not receive a notice, I called Chrysler to inquire. They told me based on the VIN or the r/t model this vehicle was not included. I did inspect the front cross member of the 07 awd r/t (VIN above). The cross member is severely rusted and has several larger perforations in the cross member frame from rust. The rest of the underside of the vehicle appears to be in good condition. I believe the cross member on this vehicle is also defective. I do have a photograph of the part.

The car would not start (lights worked, but engine would not turn over). After replacing the throttle cable and box, as well as some broken wiring, the car still would not start. The mechanic then towed the vehicle to a Dodge dealership, where the computer was reset. The car ran for another week after it was first "fixed," and then again did not start (same problem as before). Additionally, the light to indicate that the air bags were not functioning turned on prior to the vehicle not starting. This is more frustrating because we have had extensive issues with this car (replaced all tie rods, bushings, control arms, have a broken door from the hinge breaking, and had multiple tires wearing unevenly due to the car's suspension problems) already, and have sunk well over $6000 in repairs this year alone.

I was driving on the interstate going at 70-75 mph and all of a sudden my cruise control shut off. This wasn't the main issue though, as I tried to accelerate, it wouldn't work and almost felt like I was stuck in neutral. Luckily I was close to my exit when this happened. As I started to accelerate off of the ramp to the highway, it went very slow (no more than 5 mph during the turn) and I was luckily able to make it back home. When I tried to start the car again, it acted like an old lawnmower trying to start and sounded awful. A few hours later I called a repair shop and when I went to start it, it acted like everything was fine other than the check engine light still being on. I was told some sort of sensor needed to be replaced and will be getting it repaired soon for around 75 bucks.

Ir conditioning compressor failed and was replaced under extended warranty in January 2013. New a/c compressor installed, but a/c clutch fell off fourteen months later as I was turning a corner. I was told that because of the compressor failure, (which one was not referenced) there are metal shavings in the a/c coolant lines and the entire system needs replacement. Service adviser stated that he has received multiple complaints of this and that I will be unable to use vehicle defrost due to this and it is the snowiest time of the year. Dodge will not replace, as vehicle and part are now both out of warranty. Replacement part only under warranty for 12 months, but have not had to engage either defrost or a/c in the past 8 months until two weeks ago, when the replacement failed and the clutch broke off. Using the defrost could result in the unit overheating, causing an engine fire or other failure.

Driving at 35 mph, car suddenly lost power and lightning symbol appeared on dash. Drove it home on side streets at very low speed (would not accelerate past 10-15 mph) put a code reader on the car and came up with code p2119. This is a very dangerous situation, and could very easily cause an accident that could result in a fatality.

I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working. I turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on. Based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module. This is completely unsafe and I can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle. With all the issues I'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product. This same style product is used in multiple Dodge vehicles and other Chrysler / Jeep vehicles. Those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.

Upon hitting a small pothole, the subframe broke causing a loss of steering into oncoming traffic. Luckily there were no accidents. The tires now go two seperate directions. After getting the vehicle towed to a repair shop, they discovered the subframe had rusted through due to the air compressor leaking directly onto the subframe. When having our insurance adjuster from state farm out to assess the damage it was determined it was manufacturer's defect and would not be covered. I then contacted Dodge who stated that the perferation for rusting was 100,000 miles. Although the incident on the vehicle we are still paying for through an authorized Dodge dealer happened on a vehicle that has exceeding the 100,000 miles by only 10,000 miles - we are now stuck with a car that's going to cost over $1,100 to fix due to a manufacturer's defect. This incident could've resulted in a fatality. Dodge needs to be held liable for this issue.

Noticed rusted subframe with big hole. We knew it needed to be replaced. No particular reason for the erosion other than the way the vehicle is designed. Vehicle is only 6-7 years old. This type of erosion is usually only seen on old vintage vehicles. A few days ago, we ran over a hidden pot hole and the subframe is completely broken apart. Now car is completely unsafe to drive. This car was poorly designed in this area. The company should recall the subframe to replace and install a rerouting piece for the ac to drip on and bypass dripping on the frame.

The hinges fail on driver and passengers side the door will not shut gets stuck wide open if force shut cause you have no tools to pry bottom hinge back in place it causes a huge dent in front fender. . . There are a huge amount of owners complaining of this issue online so I think it's a big flaw! I have since replaced mine with used one's and do expect to have to do it again due to the design of the hinges. . . If this happens to your door it will not close completely if you manage to get it to closing point because the door latch will no longer line up properly. . . Safety issues my door opened on me going down the road on my way home with it going around a corner. . . Thank god I had my seat belt on. . . Some links to more complaints. . Read more...

While driving on i40 from wilmington, nc the car just shut off unexpectedly throttle control light(lightning bolt) came on, car was hard to control, was slowly able to get the car off the road and restarted, moments after restart while trying to pull back onto the highway it cut off again, after attempting to get going several times it finally started and did not cut off until we reached our destination. This has happened dozens of times now with no luck finding a fix or being able to properly diagnose the problem. This is a terribly scary situation to be in on the highway , I wish NHTSA would investigate this problem as I see this has been reported to them hundres of times for this model year the oldest report of this was in 9/2006 to a brand new 2007 Caliber this is crazy , something must be done. Dodge is consistently ripping people of with repair bills that dont seem to be repairing the problem as you can read in several of the complaints.

Left low beam cut out while driving. I replaced the bulb, still not working. Next day, abs, esp, brake, traction control lights illuminated. I checked all fuses and found nothing. I replaced all fuses just to be safe, still nothing. I called the dealership to ask what the problem could be. I mentioned the low beam and he immediately said that the tipm needs to be replaced. He stated that he had replaced 3 of the same model that month. After being told the cost of the repair, $ 1,200, I was upset. This is a costly repair. There are numerous complaints found on the internet, especially the Dodge forums, with these same issues. Many people believe that this is a safety issue and it really is. I have not had the part replaced, but after reading a few complaints of the right low beam also failing, I will not drive this car at night or during adverse weather conditions. I really feel that we as consumers should not be required to pay for a part or its replacement, when the car was built with faulty equipment. Hopefully, Dodge will admit this and issue a recall for the tipm before some gets hurt or even worse.

Had just replaced the brakes on the vehicle after it had been down for the 4th time in 3 years when I was driving down the highway and the tires started screeching when I applied the brakes. Began to accelerate to pull into a public parking lot when pieces of the front right tire fell off and I had to coast into the parking lot with no brakes. Is my only means of transportation and has been down for almost a year now. This vehicle has been down a total of 5 times out of the 4 years I've owned it and it has truly been an inconvenience.

Sub frame rusted out.

The vehicle has had the ignition switch slip from "on" to "accessory" twice in the last few years. The first time was on I-95 just north of richmond, va. I was driving, shifted my knee (with a long keychain), and the switch slipped. I was unable to control the car at that point. I hit the emergency lights button and tried to re-start the car. I was able to re-start the car and continue driving without accident or injury. The second time was on edwards mill road in raleigh, nc. At that point, I was not driving with the longer keychain, but a shorter one with only four keys, and the switch slipped again. Because it had happened before, I knew what I needed to do was to re-start the car, and I was able to do so successfully without accident or injury. Because at the time, I didn't think much of it, and because I had no concept that it could have been a bigger issue, and because there was no accident, I did not stop to write down or remember the dates/times of these incidents. I know that the first incident was at night; the second incident was during the day. I remember where I was because I have a photographic memory; however, because I didn't stop to look at the date or time then or later, I don't recall exact dates and times. My best guess, based on my travel schedule through richmond, va, is that it took place within the last three years, and then the second incident sometime after that. I thought nothing of these incidents even when the gm recalls started happening, because it wasn't a gm vehicle. However, the other day, I read that Chrysler vehicles were being recalled for this issue, and something triggered my memory with the switch slips. I wanted to provide this information and notice so that a decision could be made about investigating other Chrysler models, as well as to provide notice to the company of an issue.

I started to notice a noise coming from the back end of the car. We took the car to chrsyler/Dodge dealer & was told that we have to replace the following:rear hubs, the right & left lower control arms & replace the tires. We had just brought new tires in November 2010 for the winter & now they have to be replace again. Chrysler is putting my life, my husband & mother's life line on the line. Why is it that when they had the may 2007 recall,this problem was not included and why are they getting away with murder by putting our lives in jeopardy. I thought I purchased a car that would kept me safe. The estimated cost they quoted us $1800. 00. Chrysler/Dodge should be ashame of themselves. Is profit more important to them than our lives. The car is worthless & can't afford to trade it in either.

I own a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 50 km, I heard a knocking noise coming from the front suspension. At the time I thought nothing of it because I hit some bumps in the road and thought it might of been my brakes, but later that week I had it in for an oil change and they looked at the front end for me and the technician stated that the control arm, outer tie rod ends and ball joints would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired because I could not afford to fix it on my own as I am a single mom and in school as a full time time student. The vehicle only had 76000km. This is ridiculous for Chrysler to be selling vehicles with these kind of parts . . Every forum I have been on for the 2007 Dodge Calibers these are the main parts to be replced. I even contacted the dealerships in the province of newfoundland and they told me, you would not believe the amount of replacemnts done for these parts. Just as well if I had of bought a Toyota, at least they owned up to there mistakes on the parts etc. . Chrysler is making a killing on sales of these parts. . . Whatever you do, don't buy a Dodge Caliber. . . . . . My lesson is well learned. . First time I ever had a Dodge and it is my last time. . If the damn thing don't kill me first. . Or is that what it will take for Chrysler to wake up and do a recall on these parts. Well I am giving some news reporter a call and broadcast this across the nation. . See what happens then to chryslers image. . . . Disscusted. . . . Almost two 2000. 00 plus it will cost me, not to mention the wear on my tires and there is more money. . . . Could of been an accident!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Bought 2007 Caliber brand new at about 30,000 miles heard grinding and thunk noise when making a right hand turn went to dealership they stated the right tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. (of course warrenty was expired. ). I called Chrysler and of course they did nothing and I filed a complaint with them at that time but had to pay out of pocket. Now it's three years later and my vechicle did not pass inspection due to the tie rod & wheel being loose. Why is there no recall for this problem? never again Chrysler!!.

Bought car new in 2007, since that time have had to have left tie rod replaced 5 times, most recent being this month (6th time), previous 3 months prior. This is an ongoing problem, but there has been no recall on this car, I have called Chrysler and reported it. They did reimburse me a couple years ago for parts for the previous three times it had to be replaced. There is no warning when the tie rod goes, it has been found on my yearly inspections. I am worried that the steering will go someday when I am driving and there will be an accident, which keeps me on edge whenever I drive it; there is 80,256 miles on it, I don't abuse it by any means.

I purchase a used 2007 Dodge Caliber se 4 door sedan in October of 2008. The car had 14528 miles at time of purchase. The car always had a front end issue. In 2010, with less than 40,000 miles, I brought the car for tires because I was informed that the tires were worn on the inside tread, and it was dangerous to continue driving with them in that condition. I took the car to have the tires replaced at the cost of $600, but was informed that it was because of the design of the car that the tires wore the way they did. I took the car, with new tires to the shop for an alignment and was informed that the car was built to only be aligned in two directions and should have the ability to be aligned in three ways. The car always had a problem with steering when there was a seam in the pavement on the roadway; the front end would “follow” the seam in the road and had to be forced to drive properly. In March of 2012, I still had a problem with the front end, but by now it sounded as if the front tires were going to go through the hood with the amount of clunking from the front end each time it hit bump in the road. He found that the left and right control arms were bad, and the bushings were broken through. This issue cost over $500 to repair. The front end issue was greatly diminished with this repair, but not gone. In February 2013, the front end started having more problems, I returned to the mechanic and he discovered this time it was the strut assembly, front struts and tie rods. I was informed that the car was so bad that he was amazed the front tire didn’t fall off the car. This repair cost over $1100, but also mine and my passengers’ safety was greatly at risk while riding in the vehicle.

2007 Dodge Caliber gas pedal. With 50,600 miles. While driving approx 65 mph on a 3 lane highway the gas pedal accelerated to over 90 mph when the brakes and emergency brakes could not stop the car only slowed it slightly when I reached the shoulder of the road across 3 lanes of traffic I put the car in neutral and turned off the car to fully stop the vehicle. The gas pedal was replaced and explained that it was the cause for the excessive speed.

Original dunlop tires size 20570r15. Tires cupped after they were rotated and properly maintained. Causing loud noise and vibrating. Manufacturer and authorized dealers would not replace. Claim it was due to front end alignment issue. However, that isn't required in the maintenance book. The mechanic is suppose to recommend. Had front end aligned during regular preventative maintenance the day the mechanic said to have it done. He said at that time tires were fine. Yet no one would take responsibility for tire damage. Noise and shaking would start after 20 mph and get worse as speed increased.

I see that gm has finally issued a recall for their engines stalling and I'm wondering if Chrysler ever will be held accountable for the same thing? there 2007 Dodge Caliber stalls with a flashing eft light, which has been reported to Chrysler, the NHTSA, and transport canada on numerous occasions but nothing is ever done about it. Consumers are just left to fend for themselves and it's completely unacceptable.