general problems of the 2011 Dodge Caliber

** from dealer - diagnosis says - primary line b: d1 c/s multiple warning lights came on in dash (like a x-mas tree) and vehicle will not want to drive after that. C/s has to turn off and turn back on to get to move. C/a tipm – total integrated power module – verified customer concern found vehicle with loss of comm dts with tipm no VIN mis match dtc present and more than one module aginst tipm recommend replacement of tipm and retesting at this time. The tipm module controls most if not all of the body functions of the car or truck. Everything from wipers and headlights, starting system and so on. It accepts signals from many diff switches and modules in the car and translates them to the connected systems. $2128. 00 is total cost of repair at Dodge lithia – this should be a recall. There are only about 63,000 miles on her vehicle. ** safety of driver (my mother in law who is [xxx] or niece) put at risk because car just slows down and stops while driving. She pulls over, stops car, then when she starts car again it's okay for a while until it does this again. ** safety of those on the road, if her car dies while she's driving it and she has to pull off, if car won't drive, she is stopped on the road or highway with other cars behind hopefully stopping to let her pull off the road. ** yes it was inspected and reproduced by dealer. Dealer (Dodge lithia in kennewick, wa) gave us this information above primary line b, etc lights all come on dash looking like a christmas tree. . . . ** no warning lights for this specific issues, only that all dash lights come on like a christmas tree, we paid $300 for one mechanic who couldn't diagnose. Now Dodge has said it's a $2000+ fix - and hopefully this will fix the issue??? ** the only symptom is dashboard lights up, car slows down (DE-celerates) and then won't go. Car is turned off, then turned back on and it drives again, then it happens again. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

Car slowed down and electronic throttle control light and traction control light came on was dangerously slow to accelerate and would not maintain speed.

On multiple occasions vehicle completely shuts down and locks up when slowing down and turning. Almost rear-ended and then t-boned in middle of intersection. Takes several minutes to restart and unlock steering wheel then drives fine.

The contact owns a 2011 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle experienced a loss of engine power and independently decelerated even after the accelerator pedal was depressed. Also, the check engine and traction control warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to beyer Chrysler Dodge Jeep ram (200 ridgedale Ave, morristown, new jersey) where it was diagnosed that the accelerator pedal assembly was defective and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and did not assist. The failure mileage was 64,000.

Takata recall 4 different times this problem occurred! driving on highway car decelerates on its own with no warning. Could be fatal pulling onto highway! instantly lose rpms car goes into "limp mode" does not accelerate over 20mph or 2,000 rpm lights on dash lightening bolt, traction light, engine light. Had the throttle body replaced 3 times this would be the 4th time as my car still sits unfixed!! Dodge replaced the throttle body with a non factory one thinking that may have been issue. Now that my warranty is up no-one will do anything for me including aubrey alexander located in shamokin dam, PA. No-one stands by the vehicles they sell anymore. Its a shame I'm a single mother of 2 children, and work hard for everything I have, and I don't have money to continue to throw away to fix the same exact problem multiple times. This is so not fair. I will be contacting wnep & action news if this problem is not resolved for me. I lost a job and had to take leave from college due to unreliable transportation. Funny the very first thing I asked for when I walked in the dealership 5 years ago was a reliable vehicle I didn't even care what it looked like. Such a shame that Dodge themselves wouldn't, and couldn't fix the issue.

The contact owns a 2011 Dodge Caliber. While driving 35 mph, the vehicle lost power. In addition, the accelerator pedal was depressed, but the vehicle failed to accelerate. The electronic throttle control warning indicator illuminated. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 90,000.

The contact owns a 2011 Dodge Caliber. While driving 45 mph, the vehicle caught fire without warning. The air conditioner failed prior to the fire. The contact was not injured and no other vehicles were involved in the crash. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed. The dealer was unable to provide a diagnosis. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was unknown.

The contact owns a 2011 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle experienced a complete loss of power while driving approximately 15 mph. The check engine and throttle body control warning indicators illuminated. The contact pulled over and manually restarted the vehicle. The failure recurred after 3 1/2 hours while driving approximately 55 mph. The vehicle was towed to the independent mechanic where the failure could not replicate the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 60,200. The VIN was not provided.

I have had a problem with anti-lock brakes. I could not control my vehicle; my steering wheel was shaking, front wheel felt like it was buckling and I could not control my vehicle; almost got into an accident. I have brought this to the attention of the dealer and he told me thats the way the brakes are; terrible he said. This was done when it snowed. I do not like anti-lock brakes because of that reason; I drove a chevy malibu and when I applied the brake pedal, it didn't do what my car did. Any suggestions would be helpful. I just won't be able to drive in the snow, that sucks!!!!! when I'm driving on the highway I hear a moaning underneath the vehicle, the dealer didn't hear anything; probable didn't take it out for a ride.

Driving to massachusetts from nh. . . 3 hour ride. . . Just outside of springfield, MA on a very busy highway, the car suddenly deaccelerated, lost power, and dash warning lights came on. The car went from approx 75/80 mph down to 30mph and lower. I was in the middle of the third lane, and had to try to get over to the break down lane with a car full of kids. This is not safe, and several vehicles were swerving around me to avoid hitting me in the rear end. When trying to accelerate, I would put my foot to the floor on the gas pedal and nothing would happen. It was like it suddenly went into neutral. Very, very dangerous. Also, the shifting lever often shifts my car into manual operation instead of automatic without me even realizing it.

The etc (electronic throttle control) light comes on more and more, causing the engine to lose power at low and high rpms. I had it checked and I get codes of u1407,(implausible engine torque request signal received) u1424,(implausible engine torque signal received) u1425. (implausible pedal position signal received). Rough idle occurs at start up. Etc light comes on at low and high rpms even after the car has been running for some time.

As I was driving the vehicle it started to decelerated and would not regain power and then the ( etc ) light came on. With the pedal to the floor, I had to go up a hill to get it back to my car and my car just kept getting slower and slower to the point where I was afraid I was going to start drifting backwards down the hill even with the gas pedal all the way to the floor. If that hill was any bigger then I would have not made it over it. Went to the dealership in the morning and they said it was the throttle body, after replacing the throttle body had no more problems.

I was driving on a 45 mile per hour road and the engine completely died. I had to get over 2 lanes in order to exit into a bank driveway. Turn signal and it did not work and the "check engine" light never came on. I was able to pull into the driveway, out of traffic before the car completely stopped. After I settled down and called someone for help, he told me to turn off the air and try to restart the car. I did and then pulled it into a parking space, put it in park and revved the engine. I did not turn on the air-conditioning and drove right to a dealership and they test drove it. The incident did not repeat and the diagnostic test showed no failure.

Driver was going 70-75 and running a/c when oil overheat indicator came on and car automatically decreased speed to 30 mph. After sitting on side of freeway for appro. Hour to let cool down made it to destination. Took car to mechanic and no defect was found. After it happened twice more, was informed by dealer that this model of car sometimes has an issue that the oil overheats and trips sensor that forces car to slow and then stop. Can not be driven long at higher speed. According to mechanic there is no fix. Also had issue with a/c compressor.

Every so often my car just loses power. I will be driving and then if just slows down its like I can floor the gas pedal and it goes no where. It seems to be happening more and more. This car has cost me so much money while paying for it and having to put it in the shop as much as I have. I haven't ever had a car where I was driving and the car just loses to power. I don't know what's going on with it but it seems whenever it gets checked they can't find anything wrong with it.

Was driving car , took a left hand turn and car died in middle of intersection , had enough momentum to carry car through intersection so there was no accident. The car stared right back up seemed fine. The a/c was on but that should not have an effect on it. The car did the same thing 3 days before this and I was not turning , I was stopping behind a car that was turning. Each time this has happened the a/c was on and it was within 5 miles of first starting the car. I did notice the rpm drop and then it seemed like to catch itself and rev back up. Seems like it is related to the torque converter in the transmission or with the programming of the ecu. Bringing it to dealer first thing in am.