general problems of the 2015 Dodge Dart - part 1

The contact’s son owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked, while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was towed to the residence. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 121,000.

I was notified in November 2025 that the transmission shift cable in my 2015 Dodge Dart was being recalled. There was no remedy at the time, however it is now the end of March 2026 and a remedy remains unavailable. This has put my safety and the safety of others on the road at risk because, per the safety recall notice I was sent, "[failure of the transmission shift cable] can cause an unexpected and unrecoverable loss of park function and/or vehicle movement in an unintended direction which can cause a vehicle crash without prior warning and/or injury to other outside the vehicle". I have re-confirmed with my local dealership that the remedy is still unavailable and had it inspected by their mechanics. There are no warning lights on the dash board relating to this issue; only the tire pressure sensor light remains. This is due to mission tpms sensors that I've planned to address at a later time because they don't affect the car's ability to drive. I attempted to pay for the repair myself and submit for reimbursement, however was informed by a trusted mechanic that that was not possible because a better part has not yet been made. Replacing the malfunctioning cable might land me back in the exact same position I am in now and for my safety and that of others it was better to wait until the manufacturer found the remedy. That was over 2 weeks ago and the status remains the same. I find it incredibly irresponsible on the part of the manufacturer to allow this issue to continue for almost 6 months.

I am the original owner of this vehicle and have used this vehicle as my primary vehicle that has been well maintained in excellent mechanical condition with no accidents. The issue is the continuous flexing of the wire harness routed from the truck to body opening which continues to wiring shorts and breakage resulting in failure of the rear back up lamps, rear taillamp lighting and back up camera operation. Failure of these critical safety related items provide increased risk of personnel injury and property due to loss of rear visibility to the vehicle operator along with disabling the back up light signature to warn surrounding vehicle traffic of intended backup maneuvering leading to personnel injury and vehicle collision. A caution signal of backup lamp outage appears on the instrument panel along with continued outage and flicking of the rear camera function. This wire harness has been repaired at the Chrysler Dodge dealership multiple times via a deductible warranty charged to vehicle owner, never resolving the failure from once again reoccurring. Recently the rear camera and backup lamps have again failed which the Chrysler dealership has identified as being within the previously repaired wire harness. Due to the multiple times the dealership has attempted to make repairs, the dealership service records now state the wiring failures can no longer be repaired due to the poor harness condition. These aforementioned safety lighting /rear lighting devices are no longer functioning and vehicle service being denied. Repairs to this wire harness have only been made at the Chrysler dealership. This wire harness is a well known problem area to owners and a "nuisance problem" to vehicle repair technicians. A more robust harness design and routing engineered to account for wire harness flexing to account for typical trunk open/closing to maintain the expected integrity and operation of these safety items.

Hello my car has so many safety and risks the engine electric and transmission very dangerous please help.

I am having an intermittent, no communication with tcm, active stabiliy control light comes on, the vehicle feels like it pops into neutral jarring the vehicle and once this happens I have code u0101 in pcm,abs, esm, bcm,ipc,rfh along with a u11c2 code in the pcm. Also sometimes when this happens if I turn the vehicle off it won’t start again. I have not brought it to the dealership as I can’t afford it, but 2013-2015 Dodge Dart has a recall for the tcm because of the tcm bracket, causing almost ever issue my vehicle has. And I was told it is engine specific but the 1. 4,2. 0, and 2. 4 all came with the same tcm and bracket. I aquired this vehicle 2 months ago and I have had the issue intermittently since I got it. I am a mechanic over 10 years and I have replaced the alternator due to the vehicle not starting after being parked. That seemed to fix the issue but several days later it happened again. Then I had no issue with a no start again until today. I replaced all the star connectors due to having communication codes in so many modules. And oddly enough I had no issues for several days, then the asc light came on and the vehicle jarred again but it only had a u0101 code in the abs module and sometimes the pcm but no other modules and also the problem was not happening daily like before I would go several days without a issue I would clear the codes and had no issue the rest of the day. Until today I just started the vehicle and while parked the light came on and I scanned it and it had codes in 6 modules again and it is now doing it back to back and I turn the engine off to clear the codes and they won’t clear and also the vehicle won’t start but if I cycle the key and open the door several times it allow the codes to eventually clear and the vehicle to start but shortly after the light comes back on and I have the same issue again. And it seems to happen mainly when I have a passenger. Because the tcm is on the passenger floor board.

?(fix info below) the issue: the ignition intermittently fails to rotate to the "off" position, locking the key fob in the column despite the vehicle being in "park. " this is a known flaw in the Dart’s sensitive electrical/shifter interface that can lead to total battery drain and theft risk. ? ?<>quick fixes to release the fob<> ?I. The "re-park" movement: simply shifting gears is often not enough. Restart the engine, physically reverse the vehicle a short distance, then drive forward back into your space before shifting into park. The physical movement of the car is often required to reset the transmission sensor. ?ii. The twist: when you first park, try a quick, sharp twist to the "off" position immediately. Catching the system quickly sometimes prevents it from locking the fob. ?iii. The inward firm method: if already stuck, push the fob firmly inward toward the steering column (as if you are inserting your fob) while simultaneously twisting hard to the left. Repeat a few times before doing the re-park method to see if this will work for you first. Run/acc>off (be firm but if it doesn't work you're not trying to force/break it). ?<>emergency security<> ?if the tricks above do not work and you must leave your vehicle, you can still lock it and get back in. Make sure you apply your handbrake first just incase. - ?physical key extraction: locate the small release slide on the back of your key fob. You can slide the metal emergency key out even while the fob is stuck in the ignition. ?- manual locking: use the door button, physical door locks or this metal key/a backup spare to manually lock the door/driver’s door from the in/outside. This prevents vehicle theft while the fob remains trapped. !!! safety conclusion!!! ?this issue highlights the volatile nature of the Dodge Dart's electrical system. While these workarounds are effective, the underlying sensor or shifter cable failure poses a recurring safety risk to owners.

On 3/18/26 I reported a serious safety issue involving my vehicle, which currently has an open manufacturer recall with no available remedy. The vehicle has experienced multiple dangerous and malfunctioning conditions. First, the vehicle intermittently displays a dashboard message indicating that the vehicle is "not in park" even when it is clearly in the park position. When this occurs, I am unable to turn the vehicle off. I have had to wait approximately 15 minutes before the vehicle will allow me to shut it down. Second, while driving at approximately 40 mph, including while exiting the highway, the vehicle has stalled and completely shut off while in motion. This has occurred multiple times and created a significant safety risk due to sudden loss of power during active driving. Additionally, the vehicle frequently displays a message stating "engine warming, please wait to start," even when weather conditions are warm. Most recently, at approximately 70 degrees outside, the vehicle would not start and continued to display the message. I waited approximately one hour attempting to start the vehicle before it randomly started. These issues appear to be worsening. I attempted to schedule repair for the open recall, but I was advised by the manufacturer that there is currently no remedy available. Due to the vehicle stalling in motion and preventing proper shutdown and startup, I believe this represents a serious safety defect that puts me and others at risk. The vehicle previously experienced stalling while driving in motion. I brought the vehicle in for a recall repair on 01/27/25. #u90 2014-2016 at davis moore after the recall repair, the stalling condition improved; however, the vehicle began experiencing additional serious issues including the vehicle not recognizing the park position, inability to shut off, and intermittent failure to start with "engine warming" messages. These ongoing defects continue to affect the safe and reliable operation of the vehicle.

The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while the vehicle was being serviced at jiffy lube, the mechanic became aware that coolant was leaking from the engine onto the radiator. The vehicle was then taken to aamco where it was diagnosed that the valve cover gasket was leaking oil into the engine and onto the transmission. The mechanic also informed the contact that there was a cord hanging from the bottom of the vehicle but could not determine where the cord needed to be connected. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 148,000.

I have a warning light on my car for p1065 and p1061 codes. These two codes comes and go away on their own. It usually occurs after starting the car and driving it for a few minutes. This causes the car to shake and slow down suddenly in the middle of the road. The car stops to shake only when I shut it off and turn it back on right away. Another issue is that my car key get stuck in the ignition sometimes after shutting it ofand I have to wait a few seconds for the key to come off or press the button on the gearshift handle a few times to make it come out. I wonder if this is related to the transmission shift cable bushing safety recall repair that was done a few years ago on Dodge Dart vehicles lastly, I have been getting the "parking light out" warning messages on my car dashboard but all the light appears to be working fine. I have looked up these issues online and they appear to be common problems faced by Dodge Dart owners.

Ecm causing car to accelerate.

My car kept dying on me randomly flashing a light on my dash of a lightning bolt in between two curved lines. I researched it and it was saying that my throttle positioner was going out.

The ecm/throttle positioning system has been faulting for a while and only getting worse causing the car to just randomly steal with no power. Usually can shut off and restart car and itll be good for 1 min - 30 min you never really know. I got stranded in the middle of the highway and couldn't start my car after it died while driving down the road.

Ongoing issue of the key fob getting stuck in the ignition. You have to take the cover of the gear shift off and push the relay to release the lock in the ignition. This has been on multiple Dodge Darts that I have found. The key gets stuck and cannot get it out.

I’ve noticed a few times where the key fob would get stuck in the ignition of the car when I turn it off, I would have to turn the car back on and sit it in for at least 5 minutes before the fob would come out. Then the bushing cable got disconnected, the key fob stopped working I had a buy a new one and I’m still having the same issue of the fob getting stuck in the ignition. The first this issue happened was in 2023 and it’s still happening, just found out that I can file a complaint about it.

Message warm engine before start. Car won’t start message key fob damaged when it’s not. Engine clicks but no engine turn over.

Key fob gets stuck in the ignition. I have to set in the car for about 10 minutes before it will release. I did take to have looked at and the ignition switch and fob was replaced. However, still doing the same thing. As I look on you tube, I am not the only one having this problem with this car. I have been dealing with this issue and just finding out I can put in a complaint. I have attached copy of the receipt.

The car intentionally starts. The radio sometimes works and sometimes has no power. It loses the air conditioner and power windows. It burns off excessive amounts of coolant. It smells like it is running hot but isn't. When turning key the gages bounce and it clicks and clicks. Sometimes it starts and other times it will not. Multiple people have stated the same issues. Spending good amount of money on batteries, starters and alternator. The issue continues. The car is at 94k miles.

I was driving the other day dropping off food for a customer and as I shifted my car from park to drive it wouldn’t change gears. Now let me remind u I’m stuck in the middle of these strangers driveway as they’re trying to leave their home and I cannot switch into reverse so I had to keep my foot on that break pedal the entire time. Thank god they were very understanding ( because who knows what could’ve happened) and said they were leaving for something that wasn’t very important and would go another day. Come to find out it was my cable shifter which I had already had reapired previously as a recall. I haven’t even been able to drive the car because it will not shift into any gear. It’s currently just sitting across the street in my apartment complex as I have no way to work or anywhere for that matter. I called the same dealership (I took it to the first time I had the recall done)as soon as the incident happend to see if I could just get it repaired again (which I shouldn’t have to) and they told me that there was no way I was gonna be able to drop my car off at the dealership because they were extremely backed up so it would take 4 weeks before they could have anyone even look at the car. I described what it was doing over the phone to him and he said it most definitely was the cable shifter. And not only that but he also told me that even with it sitting here or there they don’t even have the part to fix the vehicle at the moment. This isn’t even the least of issues with this vehicle that I haven’t even owned for 2 years. There were never any warning lights or anything that popped up on the dashboard.

I cannot cut the car off without turning off the battery to release the key.

Car stutters when you crank it up. Check engine light cuts on and off. Windows , sunroof , trunk all don’t work. Trunk won’t open. Sunroof and windows won’t roll or close . Car staggers at 28mph. I have been locked in my car and locked out. Rearview cameras and charger port don’t work. Headlights blow every 2 weeks resulting in multiple tickets. Car will say brake lights , and headlights are out when they are not. I have been locked in my car before for several hours, because it wouldn’t let me out. Car doors will not lock. When you unlock the car lights won’t flash. Have to get an oil change often because it burns alot of gas. Car has cut off in the middle of a busy street after an oil change , because it needed oil.

It’s been having trouble starting. It started with the air conditioning going out, then it would stall in the middle of driving there are some fuses that are burnt up. And some wires in vehicle that are burnt up. When we have trouble starting jumping the vehicle would start it but still would try to stall. Finally the vehicle started stalling on us the power steering is out and we had to pull over we thought jumping it would just kick it back on til we got home. But when we tried it wouldn’t start and where the electrical fuel is it started smoking like it was going to catch fire. And I am having to find a way to get it into shop. But for now it’s left where we got stalled out.

The car stalls completely at random speeds and consumes a huge amount of oil. This stalling is extremely dangerous as it happens at even highway speeds. This is not a unique problem as I have read hundreds of accounts of the exact same thing happening on the exact same vehicle type.

The car is over heating and the ecm (brain) is messed up. I have only made the 2nd payment on the car and only got to drive it about a week and the tire sensor stays on.

Unknown , I was driving down the road at 50 mph and my battery light came on then I lost my a/c my lights started flickering and I then lost power steering and brakes I had to use my emergency brake to slow down then all of my check engine and brake failure lights were flickering and my fuse box on top of my battery caught fire and was smoking and my car then shut off I could have crashed and or been hit and killed.

My number 3 cylinder is the only problem. This had been the the third time I've had this problem in the last three years.

I have had so many problems with this vehicle. I have had to replace two coils, had the air conditioner fixed, had to replace my rear shocks, which caused me to have to buy two new rear tires, the windshield wiper motor was replaced, my car was burning oil until I got a recall for that. Now my blower fan for the heater is not working, I only have 66000, miles on this car. All these issues could really cause dangerous problems. When my 1st coil went out I couldn't get my car restarted in the middle of town. When the 2nd coil went out my car would barely move and this happened before I got the recall for the engine oil problem. Now I will have to repair the blower fan because the defroster and heat aren't working.

System: electrical system failed and car completely lost power (for at least the fourth time), this time while driving. Yes, this car is available for inspection with some advance warning. Safety: if I had been driving in a less safe area at a higher speed and the car just shut off like it did today, but in the middle of the highway, I would have been in danger of getting hit by other drivers. Reproduced: the problem is intermittent. The problem has happened at least four times plus the numerous times it doesn't start the first time but will the second time I turn the key. Inspected: the car has not yet been inspected, except for being with the dealer for an entire day in July for recall work, cracked oil valve gasket, and various service work. Messages: after turing a corner (traveling about 25 mph on a military installation), dashboard indicators flashed on and off several times. After pulling over as much as possible (with no shoulders) and coming to a stop the car completely lost power. It would not restart, the hazard lights did not work, and I could not remove the key from the ignition. After about 10 minutes the electrical systems began coming back on, starting with the hazard lights. After a couple more minutes I was able to start the car and proceed on to work. I had recall work done in July to address a pcm software issue regarding oil pressure and mechanical stalls. This battery is less than a year old and the technician said the alternator and old battery were both good. Two other times recently the car simply would not start - no indicator lights, no cranking, no sound, nothing. Also, two years ago when trying to start the car, all indicator needles moved rapidly between high and low and would not stop even after removing the key. Eventually they stopped but the battery was ruined. I'll probably trade the car in so it can kill someone else.

The contact called on behalf of his daughter who owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated that his daughter experienced a failure with oil consumption. The contact stated that his daughter stated while driving at an unknown speed, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed and determined that oil was spilling onto the engine. There was no leaks present. The contact was informed that the ecm needed to be reprogramed. The ecm was reprogrammed however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and provided a case number. The failure mileage was approximately 125,000.

While driving down my street and accelerating, the car stalled out. No warning lights on dash. Had a hunch and checked the oil. It was nearly bone-dry. Added two quarts and it appears to be functioning normally. I believe the issue to be excessive oil consumption. With the lack of warning light, and just unusual occurrence, I could have been killed. I'm just glad I wasn't on the freeway (as other Dart owners I've talked to have been).

Car cut off while driving on the high way resulting in a accident.

Touchscreen becomes unresponsive making it dangerous to drive, especially due to automatic seat and steering wheel warmers that cannot be disabled as a result.

The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving at 70 mph, the radio engaged on its own and the vehicle lost power steering. Several warning lights such as the brake system light, the battery light, the airbag light, and the engine light were illuminated. The steering wheel became difficult to maneuver but the contact was still able to drive the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and was diagnosed with the battery and alternator needing to be replaced, and was repaired. The failure reoccurred today while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to diagnose the vehicle as the obd reader failed to work. The vehicle was also taken to an unknown dealer who was unable to diagnose the vehicle for the same reason. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 125,000.

Had this 2015 Dodge Dart for 1 week. The airbag light came on and would not go off. I took it to a Dodge dealership and they quoted me 546. 74 for a car that I bought a week ago, for a manufacturing issue that was obviously not caused by me. The light came on when the car was stationary after sitting for a day. This is clearly a safety risk for myself and the car.

In the middle of driving or takeing a slight curve, car will shut off. Most of the time it will reboot uconnect system & the ac system as well during drive. Red text is shown on the display of the info screen in side dash but cant see it due too car resetting.

The radio screen goes black and the climate controls do not function as it is controlled together. This means I cannot operate the front or rear defrost which can lead to visibility issues and a potentially dangerous situation when driving.