general problems of the 2015 Dodge Dart

Shifter cable bushing failure - 1st recall in 2019, took to Dodge, was replaced in April of 2020. October 2025, safety recall replacement for the 1st recall fix as the shifter cable bushing failure, and as of may 12th 2026, there is no remedy. My bushing broke April 2026 and I can't get it repaired. With no cable bushing, I cannot use my transmission gear shift in the car, every time I need to shift to either p, d, n and r, I have to manually get out of the car, open the hood, reach inside the hot engine to manually shift the gears. I contacted stellantis customer service that handles recalls. The only option they had for me for this October 2025 recall was to get my car fixed at a mechanic or Dodge dealership and send them the paid invoice so they could reimburse me for the money I spent. I told them that was unacceptable to me because 1. ) how can you announce a national public recall in October 2025 and it's may of 2026 and still do and not have literally the small part (bushing size) that you've recalled? 2. ) Dodge telling me to get the part fixed for $500 or more at a mechanic when the part that doesn't exist anywhere that fits my Dart? make it make sense! meanwhile, everyday, I risk burning myself every time I have to reach into my hot engine to manually shift gears. This is dangerous and risks litigation if I burn myself anymore. Why is stellantis allowed to get away with this? I refuse to pay and get reimbursed when it's a recall. Worse yet, how do I get it fixed if the part apparently isn't available? again, make it make sense. . . Dodge is responsible to fix recalls on their dime, not mine.

When I first got this car three years ago I had a shift problem in the transmission it got stuck in the gear and I couldn't pull the key out when I did some research I realize that there was a recall so of course I went to the dealership and have them take a look at it to fix it they said that I will still be charge in the problem wasn't even originally fixed they rigged it they just made it to where I could pull off but I was still charged and now a couple years later I am having transmission problems again and the dealership is saying that I need a transmission as I am doing a research I realize that my transmission again has a recall on it.

Well fist thing ever went out was ac compresser the deal ship wanted over1,200 to fix that . Then my gear shift went out . Now my breaks are making a noise but their not bad . Then when you get 20 miles pr car want shift until you take you foot of gas then it will chang gears .

My car switches gears while the car is in motion. It also takes a long time for the key to be released from the ignition when the car is in park. A glitch in the electrical system causes my lights to go dim or completely turn off while I am driving.

Car is stalling and cutting off while driving. Got an oil change. Car doesn't react to pushing on accelerator. Rpm rev after hesitating with foot on the gas. Car is shaking and running really hard. I believe its the transmission control module, which is common in Dodge Darts. Its been recalled, but not on my model. Stalled in the middle of an intersection. Had to restart car 3 times.

No check engine or warning light driving on the interstate in 6th gear car blew up loud noise and caught on fire! only 85,000 miles with regular services. Lost all power and clutch pedal dropped to the floor and coasted to shoulder with a lot of smoke coming from engine opened the hood and there were flames where transmission fluid goes. I had noticed the transmission was slipping a couple days prior but it was christmas time so thought I could have it looked at afterward.

I started my vehicle this morning and it started rough and was surging. At takeoff the vehicle was driving strangly. Slowed to make a uturn, turned to the left slightly and my steering wheel locked, car shut down and was barely able to brake to slow down. I almost ran a man over trying to stop as I could not steer. The battery symbol popped up on the dash. I popped car in park. Removed key. Restarted vehicle and it took a good 5-10 seconds before turning over. There was hesitation upon start. After beginning to drive it seemed to be driving normally. . This seems to be a bit of a ticking time bomb and a very large safety issue and seems to be a known issue across all models.

Car has stalled twice when making stop and beginning to turn left on city street. Would not start first time. Restarted after a few minutes. Called aaa and replaced battery (it tested slightly weak, alternator was strong). Next day, stalled again turning left on city street. Started about a minute later.

The car just will randomly stall. No indication it is going to do this. This car is unsafe. I am to the point I hate driving it. I took it to shop and everyone says nothing is wrong with it. This has happened multiple times. I have only owned the car since 5/19.

Car stalls, jerks, or completely stops. Dangerous on highways or at high speeds. Car completely shut off on highway.

Upon driving a few months after getting this vehicle I noticed it was burning oil rather fluently. When turning corners while driving it would shut of and I'd have to wait about ten minutes and it withhold turn on like nothing happened. After adding more oil it would operate a bit better. Then the throttle system kicked out. I was driving on the highway and began to lose speed. I pulled over for safety and turned the car off. After restarting it I learned the throttle body system was bad. I initially didn't know what it was until after researching the vehicle and it's functions. . . I cannot get speed going up hill and cannot reach does if more than 40-45mph.

Whether I am driving my car on the freeway and stopped w/traffic or on a city street at stop light/sign and my foot is on the break, the car has a tendency to take off on its own. I did take it to a mechanic today 1/15/18 who put it on diagnostic machine and a problem was detected with code p2122 throttle/position sensor/switch"d" circuit low input. Mechanic said I should check for any safety recalls.

When starting the car the rpms race on their own. It accelerates on it own. Check engine light is on. Taking multiple times to start the vehicle. This happened in a parking lot. These things are happening randomly.

I'll be driving down the street and it will act like it wants to downshift and forward momentum is lost for a few seconds forward momentum is lost for a few seconds and clicking noises are her during this process.

My car keeps cutting off while I'm driving. The batter light comes on without any warning. After the batter light comes on the only thing I can do is steer, the car starts to slow down, I can't excel at all, raido and all lights cut off as well. Once the car comes to a complete stop, I'll start it back up sometimes it'll start right back up, or I'll have to hold the key down a few seconds for it to start. The car have stopped on me while driving move than 5 times. I took it to the dealership where I purchased the car and the first few time they said after they ran all of the test they couldn't get the vehicle to duplicate the problem. Another time they asked could they keep the vehicle over night and have a mechanic drive the car home and back to work. The next day when I went to go pick up my vehicle they said they kinda-sorta got the car to duplicate the problem those were there exact words. Then they put a monitor in my car they told me to press the button while I was driving if the car was to go out so they can record the problem. The monitor was in my car for about a month and my car didn't duplicate the problem. A few weeks after they took the monitor out my car cut off on me again and took it back to the shop and they ran the same test and they couldn't figure out what's wrong with it. Another time my car went off I toom it back to the shop and it just so happened that my car was halfway empty on oil and they're telling me that my car is cutting off because it needs oil and they were going to monitor the oil. So they sent me back on the road and told me to come back when my car got to a certain amount of miles they had wrote down , when my car got to that amount of miles that they have wrote down I took my car back to the dealership and I told him to tell me if I needed an oil change and they told me I didnt. The car cut off when I was on the highway and on th.

The car shuts off while I am driving-shuts off at stop sign, traffic light, or if I am turning in.

The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. While driving 25 mph, the vehicle accelerated independently. Prior to the failure, the vehicle did not respond when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The dealer stated that, due to a low battery, the electronic throttle caused the vehicle to accelerate independently. The battery was replaced, but the contact was concerned that the failure could recur. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 37,000. The VIN was not available.

My car has 1550 miles on it. It was parked in my car port with shift in park. I started the car as normal. The car was idling at 750rpm then after about one minute the engine roared to 5000rpm for about 10 seconds and then returned to normal 750rpm. My foot was not touching or near the accelerator pedal during this time. Had I been backing out of the car port during this period the results would no doubt have been serious. Although it has not repeated in the three days following the incident, nevertheless it worries me that it might happen while in gear resulting in an accident.

Rpm to high my car jerk I had to press on brakes.

None.