Electrical System Problems of Dodge Dart - part 2

Airbags. The light did not come on upon start up of vehicle. Electrical. My radio, display on dashboard and bluetooth would blink off and on. I think that my sons safety and mine were at risk because of the malfunctioning of the airbags if an accident would have occurred they wouldn't deploy. I took it into the dealer, but they didn't seem concerned. They fixed some things and it costs around $3500. The only thing I noticed was the flashing off and on of the dashboard display which shows your speed and mileage on the vehicle and my airbag light did not display at all. My VIN number was covered up with a sticker on the dashboard of my vehicle as well and the one on the drivers door was missing. My car was stolen from ohio and I found it in oregon at capitol Toyota. Dodge Dart 2016.

See all problems of the 2016 Dodge Dart 🔎.

The transmission gear is notb shiftingb and the car is cutting off oin the freeway and also at stop signs and stop lights. Oil changes and transmission fluids have been checked and changed problem still happening.

I’ve noticed a few times where the key fob would get stuck in the ignition of the car when I turn it off, I would have to turn the car back on and sit it in for at least 5 minutes before the fob would come out. Then the bushing cable got disconnected, the key fob stopped working I had a buy a new one and I’m still having the same issue of the fob getting stuck in the ignition. The first this issue happened was in 2023 and it’s still happening, just found out that I can file a complaint about it.

See all problems of the 2015 Dodge Dart 🔎.

Gear jumped into neutral and then reverse while driving and got stuck in reverse .

Last Thursday, August 3rd, I reversed my car out of my garage. Upon putting it in drive, the engine light came on as well as the prnd lights illuminated red. As I was driving, I noticed my car felt sluggish to my destination, but I did make it. When I parked, I noticed how jerky the car was when shifting from drive to park. After my appointment, the red prnd lights were gone, with the engine light still on. I had another appointment to get new tires, and the car ran fine this time, except engine light still on. Once my new tires were on, engine light also no longer lit. I took my car to get it diagnosed. It gave out 3 codes; po705-00, p1c86-92, and b1578-2b with the last code indicating problems with my antenna. I checked it, and it appears to be broken in 2 areas. The first code po705-00 indicates failure of the transmission control module; which is strange. There was a related recall in 2019, in which I did take my vehicle into a dealership, and it was supposed to have been taken care of. The code p1c86-92 has to do with the prndl display circuit current out of range. I now do not feel safe driving my car, and the dealerships can’t get me in to look at my car, so I’ve been calling all over the area to mechanics that specialize in transmission issues. I can’t in until sept 6th, and that’s just for another diagnosis before ordering parts and giving me a quote. When I first had these issues, I began researching the codes. It seems that there are a lot of people with Dodge Darts having these exact same issues, but no recall has been issued as of yet. Please take care of this. Mechanics and dealerships are way overbooked, some are no longer taking jobs because they’re so backed up, and people like myself with no other vehicle will not have transportation. And I live in a rural community. Getting a recall on these transmission issues would be really helpful, as like I stated, many are having these exact problems. Thank you!.

See all problems of the 2014 Dodge Dart 🔎.

Message warm engine before start. Car won’t start message key fob damaged when it’s not. Engine clicks but no engine turn over.

In 2019 Dodge had a shift cable bushing recall. I had it fixed in 2021 after owning the car for a few months (recall v34) . At this time, 2 years later, I’m experiencing the same problems that would be present with a faulty shift cable bushing which is a major safety concern. My car says it’s not in park when the shifter is indeed in park.

Key fob gets stuck in the ignition. I have to set in the car for about 10 minutes before it will release. I did take to have looked at and the ignition switch and fob was replaced. However, still doing the same thing. As I look on you tube, I am not the only one having this problem with this car. I have been dealing with this issue and just finding out I can put in a complaint. I have attached copy of the receipt.

The car intentionally starts. The radio sometimes works and sometimes has no power. It loses the air conditioner and power windows. It burns off excessive amounts of coolant. It smells like it is running hot but isn't. When turning key the gages bounce and it clicks and clicks. Sometimes it starts and other times it will not. Multiple people have stated the same issues. Spending good amount of money on batteries, starters and alternator. The issue continues. The car is at 94k miles.

Actuator in the engine making the valve stuck and not drivable, causes shaking, very poor acceleration, won’t shift, this started last summer, engine light bringing up actuator code.

I was driving the other day dropping off food for a customer and as I shifted my car from park to drive it wouldn’t change gears. Now let me remind u I’m stuck in the middle of these strangers driveway as they’re trying to leave their home and I cannot switch into reverse so I had to keep my foot on that break pedal the entire time. Thank god they were very understanding ( because who knows what could’ve happened) and said they were leaving for something that wasn’t very important and would go another day. Come to find out it was my cable shifter which I had already had reapired previously as a recall. I haven’t even been able to drive the car because it will not shift into any gear. It’s currently just sitting across the street in my apartment complex as I have no way to work or anywhere for that matter. I called the same dealership (I took it to the first time I had the recall done)as soon as the incident happend to see if I could just get it repaired again (which I shouldn’t have to) and they told me that there was no way I was gonna be able to drop my car off at the dealership because they were extremely backed up so it would take 4 weeks before they could have anyone even look at the car. I described what it was doing over the phone to him and he said it most definitely was the cable shifter. And not only that but he also told me that even with it sitting here or there they don’t even have the part to fix the vehicle at the moment. This isn’t even the least of issues with this vehicle that I haven’t even owned for 2 years. There were never any warning lights or anything that popped up on the dashboard.

Transmission control module failed. Gear shifts into neutral when driving and shuts car off. Gear position sensor bad causing gear to shift while driving.

See all problems of the 2013 Dodge Dart 🔎.

I cannot cut the car off without turning off the battery to release the key.

The contact owns a 2016 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving approximately 65 mph there was a loud abnormal "bang" sound and the vehicle lost forward momentum. The vehicle went dark, there was no electrical power, the vehicle would not start. The contact had the vehicle towed to a dealer who could not duplicate the failure. The contact stated that the failure occurred two more times, and had been able to drive the vehicle to the dealer, who was able to diagnose the failure on the third visit. The dealer diagnosed the vehicle and determined that the onboard computer needed to be reset as well as the battery needed replacing. The vehicle had been repaired, however the contact stated that the vehicle failure had reoccurred. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was 65,815. VIN unavailable.

Transmission shifts rough. Dealership replaced transmission but it has been doing the thing since day one when they replaced it. Motor bogs down when turning. Passenger seat belt flashes and dings even though the belt is clicked. Hands free system longer works. Airbags light is always on. Back up camera is flipped upside down and is a backing hazard. Odometer is flashing as well. Tire pressure sensors will show that there is no air in the tires after driving about 45 mins. It asks if there has been and crashes, I have not but it could happen. You never know when the car isn't going to respond.

Car stutters when you crank it up. Check engine light cuts on and off. Windows , sunroof , trunk all don’t work. Trunk won’t open. Sunroof and windows won’t roll or close . Car staggers at 28mph. I have been locked in my car and locked out. Rearview cameras and charger port don’t work. Headlights blow every 2 weeks resulting in multiple tickets. Car will say brake lights , and headlights are out when they are not. I have been locked in my car before for several hours, because it wouldn’t let me out. Car doors will not lock. When you unlock the car lights won’t flash. Have to get an oil change often because it burns alot of gas. Car has cut off in the middle of a busy street after an oil change , because it needed oil.

It’s been having trouble starting. It started with the air conditioning going out, then it would stall in the middle of driving there are some fuses that are burnt up. And some wires in vehicle that are burnt up. When we have trouble starting jumping the vehicle would start it but still would try to stall. Finally the vehicle started stalling on us the power steering is out and we had to pull over we thought jumping it would just kick it back on til we got home. But when we tried it wouldn’t start and where the electrical fuel is it started smoking like it was going to catch fire. And I am having to find a way to get it into shop. But for now it’s left where we got stalled out.

The car stalls completely at random speeds and consumes a huge amount of oil. This stalling is extremely dangerous as it happens at even highway speeds. This is not a unique problem as I have read hundreds of accounts of the exact same thing happening on the exact same vehicle type.

Less than 2 years after purchasing this vehicle brand new my car started consuming oil and actually caused my car to die in the middle of the road. Chrysler ended up completely replacing my engine due to scoring found in the pistons. In the last year I have done another oil consumption and feel just under the threshold of what Chrysler deems "bad enough". They did an update and it has not been a problem since. In the past few months I have been having issues with my car in park not releasing my key. My car will be in park and I can turn it back 1 notch and it gets stuck in the acc position. Turns out my shifter cable was damaged and I have replaced that with a $500+ repair. Well unfortunately it didn't completely solve my problem and I will still occasionally have the issue and now they are stating I need to completely replace my shifter and knob assembly. The repairs don't seem to stop. . .

When driving vehicle at 40+ mph and making a turn the vehicle then stalls, loosing power and the transmission will not resume acceleration after turn is completed. We had to pull the vehicle off the road and out of traffic because of power loss. The vehicle check engine light was illuminated prior to experiencing problem. A dealership in oklahoma city, ok confirmed a transmission malfunction code.

When trying to park the car it doesn’t necessarily allow you to turn the car off without moving the shifter around until the car is satisfied and allows you to finally shut down. Also the radio seems to just shut off and on once and awhile.

My 2013 sxt 2. 0 started to have the right front tpms sensor stop working a few weeks back after driving the car for about 30 minutes. I assumed the issue was with the sensor itself as the car is 9 years old now and thought the sensor battery may be getting weak. Had the sensor replaced and others checked, and we were back to normal for a few weeks. Then the right front again dropped out after driving for 30-40 minutes. Checked the sensor again, and it is putting out the signal ok per the tire store, so we went on our way. So here is what is happening now. The car acts like it resets itself overnight and all the sensors behave in a normal fashion after first starting a drive. But they start to drop out beginning with right front consistently after about 30-40 minutes of driving. Then sometimes the left front goes out soon after followed by the left rear. The other thing I have noticed is the range on the fob for locking / unlocking gets really short during this same time of driving the car for a while. Fob batteries are all new. Car sits overnight for a day and things seem to be normal first thing again. Have been told this is a real common issue of late with the Darts and the rfhm (radio frequency hub module) is typically the culprit. This hub failure can also lead to other electronic issues such as dash lights / wipers / door locks / etc failing or working intermittently. Apparently to replace this module, it is expensive and can involve new keys as well.

The car is over heating and the ecm (brain) is messed up. I have only made the 2nd payment on the car and only got to drive it about a week and the tire sensor stays on.

Unknown , I was driving down the road at 50 mph and my battery light came on then I lost my a/c my lights started flickering and I then lost power steering and brakes I had to use my emergency brake to slow down then all of my check engine and brake failure lights were flickering and my fuse box on top of my battery caught fire and was smoking and my car then shut off I could have crashed and or been hit and killed.

Blind spot detection says 'unavailable'. The first time this happened, it was followed by the radio & heater randomly turning off & on and all things electrical flashing off and on every few seconds. It was taken to the dealership & found the turn signal socket to show a high resistance when hot. After just over a month of everything working normally, it has now gone back to square one, starting with the blind spot sensors, just as before. Uploads are from when I had the car at the dealership in may. Blind spot sensors acting up once again on 6/20/22. Which is the date I put for when the incident occured.

The contact owns a 2014 Dodge Dart. The contact stated that when the vehicle was purchased, the driver’s side window failed to function as intended. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the traction control warning light illuminated and, on another occasion, the vehicle failed to turn off as intended. The battery cables were disconnected, and the battery was removed from the vehicle. An unknown message about the electrical system was displayed. In addition, the rpm revved high while the vehicle was idling or being driven. The contact stated that on a separate occasion, while the vehicle was idling, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The contact stated that on a separate occasion, oil stains were found on the ground underneath the vehicle. The contact stated that the vehicle was consuming an excessive amount of engine oil. In addition, the gas cap lever failed to function as intended. The contact had to pull the panel on the driver's side door to manually use the button inside the panel to open the fuel filler door. The vehicle was taken to the private dealer where the vehicle was purchased for an inspection; however, the vehicle was not inspected or diagnosed. The contact stated that the failure persisted. The contact related some of the failures to manufacturer recall number: u90 (catalyst efficiency). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 114,367.

When I put my vehicle in park, the system doesn’t register that it’s in park and I cannot take out the key. It will show on the gear shift and the dash that my vehicle is in park but internally it doesn’t register.

When placed into park the car does not register it's in park and therefore does not want to shut off. It can take up to 15 minutes to get it off. Seems dangerous since it keeps running and it starts to rev the engine.

Car stops moving as you are driving it. Took it to multiple mechanics including Dodge dealership. Dodge stated they see this often with Darts. Engine light and service transmission is on screen after it stops moving (rpm revs but no movement). Been ongoing since August 2018. Sending photos of some of the beginning incidents to not overwhelm.

My 2013 Dodge Dart rallye turbo 1. 4l . Started to lose power in the cold weather. It then stalls out while I was waiting at a red light. I got it started it ran fine. I got to a friend's house. Visited for a while. Got out to the car it wouldn't start. I jump-started it. To get home. And it was run slow and sluggish. The next day I went out there. And it just clicked. Bought a brand new battery thinking it was that. It won't start check the fuses. All was working even relays starter solenoid and alternator also tested good. All cables and ground wires where in good condition tested and cleaned. Belt was like new and turned freely. Check engine light did flash when first tried to start 10 times then when off. But no error code was held. This has only happened one there time. And it was when I didn't have it in my garage at night. Last week and we got a bad winter storm. I didn't know. That I can't drive this car in michigan. In the winter. Because it almost got me hit. When out at a green light. Because it was cold. If I would of known this I would of never got this car. And know it won't even. Start because I left outside of the garage for the second time in the hole time I own it.

My number 3 cylinder is the only problem. This had been the the third time I've had this problem in the last three years.

In 2013 I bought a new Dodge Dart limited from a Dodge dealer. I bought the car in March and by October when it got cooler outside, it was evident there were some electrical issues related to the uconnect screen blanking out and dash lights flickering while driving or when abs engaged, and engine and battery lights on. The whole car seemed like it was resetting as everything electrical flickered and turned off and then on again. I took the car back to the dealership while it was under warranty at least 3 times to no avail. It would sometimes come back on after turning the car off for a period of time but then it turned off and stayed off for days. The Dodge mechanics claimed they could not get the problem to come up for them at all during yearly visits from 2014-2018. I researched the internet for solutions and disconnecting and reconnecting the battery seemed to fix it so that became a temporary resolution. After a while it became much more consistent and the battery trick didn't always work anymore. So I went to a second Dodge dealership in 2019 when my car was at the end of it's warranty and they did see the issue occur and decided to replace the screen all together. That next winter the problem came back so I went back to the dealership and this time they replaced the body control module. It's the next winter and the center console is completely out so I cannot control hazard lights, the turn signals don't make noise, backup camera is out, seat controls don't work, rear defrost never turns on but the front defrost blasts hot air constantly causing fog. I feel unsafe as I cannot see out of the rear window due to consistent under 40 degrees temps. The dash lights went completely out yesterday and I could not see my speedometer, but it came back on 60 min later. The engine and battery lights are on constantly since the weather changed. The dash lights are a huge safety concern as I don't know how fast I'm driving and it happens while the car is in motion.

I have had so many problems with this vehicle. I have had to replace two coils, had the air conditioner fixed, had to replace my rear shocks, which caused me to have to buy two new rear tires, the windshield wiper motor was replaced, my car was burning oil until I got a recall for that. Now my blower fan for the heater is not working, I only have 66000, miles on this car. All these issues could really cause dangerous problems. When my 1st coil went out I couldn't get my car restarted in the middle of town. When the 2nd coil went out my car would barely move and this happened before I got the recall for the engine oil problem. Now I will have to repair the blower fan because the defroster and heat aren't working.

Car engine is shutting off mid drive it car is not warmed up. And the parking mechanism is not going through when I try to park the car.

The gear selected is saying that the car is park but it will not shut off . Had to move the shifter back and forward serval times before it stayed in park had this problem awhile don't think it was ever recalled. Thanks for your support in this matter.