Other Fuel System Problems of Dodge Dart - part 1

I own a 2016 Dodge Dart with an active safety recall related to the transmission shift cable bushing. I have contacted dealerships multiple times and have been told parts are not available with no timeline provided. This defect affects the vehicle’s ability to properly shift gears and creates a serious safety hazard. I am being forced to drive an unsafe vehicle due to Chrysler’s failure to supply recall parts in a reasonable timeframe.

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I came home from work, (drove 18 miles) and parked, walked towards my building and I heard a noise, as if something turned on under the hood. Like a electrical motor spinning. And it was not the fan because that one had already turned off. I walk back to the car and pop the hood, white smoke starts coming out and in less than 2 minutes a huge flame comes straight out from the passenger side of the hood. Called the fire department. Fire was on for 4 minutes, neighbor mechanics came running with fire extinguishers and put out the fire before the firefighters arrived. Too many parts melted and damaged. So far estimate is at $4,000. I do not have the estimate on paper, since at the moment I did not have budget to fix my car. My car was perfectly fine, services got done regularly. Never had issues other than wear and tear. I've had that car for almost 10 years.

Recall 19v-293 post remedy failure recall was already performed previusly. Vehicle would not shift out of drive. Even when prndl lever was moved. Had to drive to dealer and have the bushing replaced a secound time. In other had to have recall fix done to vehicle for a 2nd time. Should be added to investigation rq25002.

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My car has an extremely bad rough idle. I’ve had an alignment done, new tires, new spark plugs. I’ve done so much work to this car. I have done some extremely deep research and it is a very common issue in the 2013 Dodge Dart. One thing I also read, is it could be caused due to all of the ground point nuts being painted over, not creating a strong circuit for the ground. That should be a recall because I cannot physically replace all of those nuts. If that’s not the issue, there needs to be an investigation to figure out why this car feels like it will stall out, or I’m going to lose a tire going 65 on the interstate. Something isn’t right with this car and the dealership needs to diagnose it for free knowing it’s such a common issue! I have a very trusted, fully certified mechanic, he has looked at my car, and he is stumped too. No one can figure this out.

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The car intentionally starts. The radio sometimes works and sometimes has no power. It loses the air conditioner and power windows. It burns off excessive amounts of coolant. It smells like it is running hot but isn't. When turning key the gages bounce and it clicks and clicks. Sometimes it starts and other times it will not. Multiple people have stated the same issues. Spending good amount of money on batteries, starters and alternator. The issue continues. The car is at 94k miles.

When I start my car and depart the car feels like it is gonna die and when I accelerate the gears slip and the engine revs up when I am pressing on the brake and sometimes when I come to a complete stop after exiting the freeway my car dies and the battery light turns on and I have to put it in park and start the car again. . . .

It’s been having trouble starting. It started with the air conditioning going out, then it would stall in the middle of driving there are some fuses that are burnt up. And some wires in vehicle that are burnt up. When we have trouble starting jumping the vehicle would start it but still would try to stall. Finally the vehicle started stalling on us the power steering is out and we had to pull over we thought jumping it would just kick it back on til we got home. But when we tried it wouldn’t start and where the electrical fuel is it started smoking like it was going to catch fire. And I am having to find a way to get it into shop. But for now it’s left where we got stalled out.

Sometimes I can smell like a gas or oil smell in the cabin of the car only happens when I take sharp turn or a bump in the road and sometimes by itself can't be good having this smell in the cabin and people breathing it.

When the oil life in this vehicle gets low the vehicle randomly stalls. This week my vehicle stalled in the middle of an intersection putting me at risk of bodily harm. I had to have my car towed to the dealership because it would not start. After speaking with the service person at the dealership they said that this is a "safety feature" to protect the engine. This is not the first time this has happened, but it is the first time my vehicle wouldn't start at all.

Car engine is shutting off mid drive it car is not warmed up. And the parking mechanism is not going through when I try to park the car.

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I pull out in front of car don't know if car is going to or lag. Eats oil.

The car stops unexpectedly. It smoked the other day. I don't know what fuel. The gas cap says 85 but the dealer never told me this. The lighting and inside above. Falls out like it has been tampered with. It doesn't run properly. Sometimes it just stops and won't stop. Like it's a bate car. Used by cops. But I wasn't informed when I was sold the car.

I was driving down the highway when my car made a loud noise and jerked really hard. My car started slowing down and would not accelerate. The rpm's just kept riving up but car was not going any faster. It has done this twice in the past week. The dealership put it on the computer and ran some tests and cleared out all codes and updated some stuff and told me to let hi know if the engine light came back on. Well on the way home the engine light came back on and did the same thing and jerked really hard making my car slow down and not accelerate. The code says the pcm/tcm but it feels like the transmission is going out. It acts like it doesnt want to shift into the next gear.

After receiving my car from the dealership the engine light came on so I contacted them about it and he hooked it up tp machine told me to watch for the light again and let him know. I dont drive my car much so it was about a week later when I noticed the engine light again so I took it to oreilley's and the code p2096 which is fuel to ratio which has been a problem more then I can count. My car always smells like gas fumes that's why I try not to drive it unless I can keeps windows down because the smell is very strong. I was driving today and it kept stalling and when ii would start to go from a dead stop once it shifted into 2nd it would jerk real hard like the transmission is messed up again. The light of course comes back on after they clear ut out and it may have same code or it may be different each time. I am tired of risking my life and others because no one wants to do anything about this problem I've had for 6 years now and have so many odi complaints with NHTSA and complaints with fca I could have my own car complaint website. I would love to have them take my car in for testing of quiality of cars and prove to everyone this was a lemon car no if, ands, or butts about it. There is 1 in however many cars that are lemons and this is one of them. 550 days in the shop being fixed that many times that for more then an entire year my car was being worked on. Should that be enough or is someones life gonna be what opens eyes. I've got ,more documents to show the many many problems I have had and have passed them along to my attorney so if something happens in result of this unsafe car there will be action taken.

I need to get my shifter cable bushing replaced and my thermostat housing is messing up constantly.

No oil light on, no engine light, and it stalled. There is a problem with oil consumption with the 2. 4 engine. My car died after backing out of my driveway and starting a turn. Y car stalled out twice in the middle of intersections very dangerous. Battery light came on, music continued, but enginge just died. The steering wheel froze (no more power steering), and I couldn't press my brake down, it just sat there in the road. I checked the level of my oil and it doesn't even cover the curved part of the dipstick, that's how low it is. The car stalled out again, a few months after the oil change. The car is not indicating when it needs oil, and is shutting itself off so it doesn't over heat while driving at speeds 70mph+ and in the middle of intersections while turning.

The car stinks like gas, check engine light has been on. Independent service center advised me that the fuel tank has a leak. Check engine code is also detecting a fuel leak. We have bad headaches due to gas smells inside the car. Even my kids compliant of having headaches due to the gas smell. Puddle of gas above the fuel pump. Thank can catch on fire due to the leak and strong gas smell. The smell wasn’t to strong until year 2022.

All the lights in the vehicle vent out, the digital dashboard the touch screen everything that lights up went out. The motor almost died and started to sputter. When I accelerate it has no power then it will take off then no power. When I am stopped the idle is so low it almost dies and the entire car shakes very hard. This started while I was driving at about 30 mph.

Car engine tends to idle fast in park and engine light reading fuel cap. I have had the car checked and purchased fuel cap but inspection is reading as fuel line problem.

After vehicle hasn't been drive. For few hours, it will stall while in motion. Vehicle will be in motion the. Shut off after releasing the accelerator, this affects the vehicle steering also. Restarting the vehicle by turning the key while in park and the vehicle begins to cycle the starter and eventually start back up after the starter cranking. While the battery light is on. Battery has been checked and no issues there. After research, this tends to be an ongoing issue with these models.

I received recall v34 notice 5/25/19. It says there is a problem with the transmission linkage. It warns you about getting out of the car when it still is in drive, but doesn't tell you how to turn the car off if the linkage fails in drive or reverse. The notice says engage the parking brake, but you still can't turn the engine off. I called the dealer and they tried and couldn't figure it out. I called the Chrysler 1-800-853-1403 number and they were no help!!!!! they keep saying just turn the key off. I explained it was a push button start and they had never heard of it!!!!!!.

My car shuts off while driving at almost any speed; at times when I hit a hard bump, or make hard turns, and even when idling at times as well. Rpms shoot to zero and the engine shuts off leaving you only able to steer. . . I've had it in the shop at least twice for the issue since the first time it happened and each time whatever it is seems to be fixed until a few weeks/months later when it ends up happening again. The latest time was 04/08/19 on my way to work in the morning when I was merging onto the expressway; at about 40mph the car stalled and this happened 3 more times before I was able to make it to work.

While at idle speed car revs up then down and revs up . . While accelerating car stalls like it's in neutral. . I was on street.

I have a 2016 Dodge Dart rallye and it shuts off on my when driving it also hesitate this car is like a death trap I'm afraid of getting hit.

When I had the mechanic look at the check engine light, he advised that there is a leak in the fuel system. . So my car slowly, very slowly leaks gasoline. This started the same time as the wipers, and the oil pressure sensor, and the recall on the transmission. Has to be related or an affect of one of those things.

Issue began to occur where car will lose acceleration and must be turned off in order to work again. It has happened about six times now where the car must be pulled to the side of the road (if possible) and restarted. During restart, the engine hesitates/sputters for about 5 seconds before returning to seemingly normal operation. At no other time does the car act like this. Normally it will have no problems starting up. Just last night, I went to leave and was unable to take the car out of park. After a quick search I found that the car may have a loose or bad shifting cable. Another issue that seems to be reoccurring in these cars. My 14 gt has 64k miles and has always recieved routine maintenance.

The car keeps cutting off. I crank it back up and it runs for a little bit and cuts right back off. I have had the battery and alternator check and that's not the issue.

I recently purchased my Dodge Dart 2014 in August of 2018. I purchased the car with around 26,000 miles on it. Great condition, excellent mileage, no accidents, and only one owner. I have only had the car for 5 months. I use it mainly as a commuter car. It started having issues almost as soon as we got it. They were first minor things. Until November 2018. My cars battery died and refused to start. I had to replace out of pocket due to it not being covered by warranty. It was having issues starting, I thought that it was due to it being cold (because it would be fine once it heated up), so at first thought nothing of it. It would start up and I would drive it less then a mile, I would start to slow down and everything would shut off. The heater and the lights would still be on but it would loose acceleration and the battery light would come on. It will do this multiple times until the car is warm(even then it will continue to do it afterward). Rpm drops to zero, check engine, electronic throttle control, and battery light all come on. This is a safety hazard due to it stopping in traffic, on the highway, and in intersections. Something needs to be done about this issue. I have read up on this issue and see that I lot of people have this issue. My car is currently at 24% oil life, I will be testing to see if the issue is resolved(temporarily) like others have been. Due to fear of it not being covered under warranty I have not taken it to the dealer. They quoted me at $400 dollars for everything that could possibly be wrong (based off this information they have an idea of already what is wrong with the car. They still want me to come in and try to charge me for it because it most likely won't be covered by the warranty.

My car has 34,000 miles and I can't fill up at a gas pump. It will fuel for 2 seconds and click off. I called Dodge but it's not linger under the factory warranty due to time. The car is brand new and iv never had this problem with any other vehicle. I'm not even sure what the problem is and from what I've seen online neither do the dealers and I'm not going to spend thousands getting this problem looked at when it barley has any miles on it.

For the last 4 months my vehicle shuts off as I'm driving. After 3 trips to the dealership for a few test they determine that due to low oil consumption the car has a sensor that shuts off the engine while driving. During one of these incidents my vehicle turned off as I was approaching an intersection in which the brakes did not work which lead me to slowly roll into the intersection on a red light. Luckily it was morning rush hour so no accidents occurred. I truly believe this vehicle needs to be recalled it's a safety hazard not only for me but also for others.

Car's engine compartment burst into flames during commute to work 0700 in the morning 10/09/2018, 65 degree day in 35 mph zone. 54,000 miles on car. Car was moving at 30mph when engine died and car started to smoke from under hood, within 60 seconds flames appeared from hood, my daughter driving the car got out just in time she was the only passenger. Lost all belongings in car.

Driving on the open road the car looses power, can't steer can't accelerate. Very dangerous when traveling at 70 mph even at 35 thru the city. I have noticed online of all the complaints and Dodge just says I don't know what to tell you. This needs to be fixed as some one will die driving these cars in this condition!! read were numerous people have been involved in accidents because of this. Happens more when turning in my case.

Recall r42 . This recall applies only to the transmission control unit and it states that the module could randomly get into neutral while driving. We had this called serviced at nyle maxwell in austin and it did not fix the problem. After taking the car in an leaving it in for them to fix it for weeks twice so far, they return it as "problem could not be found or duplicated" I have since then purchase, two more transmission control modules (tcm) to fix the safety issue I found a replica of what was put in at the dealer to service recall r42. Upon a failure! the tcm module does not recover and renders the car in mobile when the spare module is plugged in, the errors go away and the transmission starts to run correctly. The car can then be stop by turning of the car and the failing unit reconnected and the car starts to run correctly again without the service transmission error and the absence of gears. This proves it is not the transmission but the smarts in the tcm. As for the tcm that was put in, that one is still failing to operate the transmission without leaving us broken down on the side of the road without gears. So please help me investigate, what is the last and appropriate version that would fix r42 recall issues in this 2013 Dart Dodge ddtc 1. 4l turbo model. Thank you so much for your help.

When I drive and brake the car cuts off and the steering wheel locks and its hard to start back up im in the middle of the street.

The vehicle engine will buck and or stall immediately after a complete fuel fill-up. The issue can last anywhere from 5-13 miles after the fill up. Afterwards the vehicle operates normally. It occurs after every fill-up and started three fill-ups ago. This is very dangerous especially when on the highway.