general problems of the 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan - part 1

My 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan has all of a sudden lost power on half the fuse box making it so the key (fob) says iuyts a bad key a total of 3 times so far as well as this time will not turn over at all, also the last time I went to put fuel in it half the gas was on the ground due to a faulty gas line on the fuel neck. It also has a fluctuateing rpm at stop lights. And might turn off and be hard to restart in the middle of an intersection. I would hope to have these things fixed in a recall soon.

Door buzzing noise when unlocking. . . Sliding door will not unlock from inside the vehicle. Safety hazard for the passengers.

My wife was stopped at a drive through window in drive when the engine stalled. It wouldn’t crank over and needed to be pushed out of the way and towed. The tipm failed and needed to be replaced. The repair was done at a Chrysler dealer and they took the faulty part after repair. Safety was at risk because if this had happened in the middle of the road it could have caused an accident. My wife was lucky it happened at the drive through. Vehicle not inspected by police or insurance. No warning lights or other symptoms, just engine stalled.

Right side passenger sliding door makes a loud buzzing noise when it locks.

Looks like there's a design or defective part on the driver side (left) window. It is unable to open. This is the second time that the window unable to open, the first time happened in around late 2019 early 2020. It was the window power switch issue and I had it replaced. Recently the window stopped working again. This can be a potential safety issue if the car is drove into a river or in a high water area and the window cannot be opened for driver to escape.

Driver side sliding door stuck locked. Not able to open the door. Extreme safety issue. Passenger is not able to exit the car in emergency situation.

Both back doors have failed lock actuators. I’ve gotten a repair quote of over $1400 per door to get fixed. Both doors buzz and one has actually locked shut. Extremely inconvenient with children.

Doors buzzing when you turn off car n open door.

The rear passenger sliding door is making a buzzing noise when unlocking. I have had it lock up a few times where I can't open the door and this is a big safety hazard. I have kids and if something was to happen and I couldn't open the door. I see there is an extended warranty for this problem. I called the dealership and they looked up my VIN # and said I was not covered. The door lock actuator needs to be replaced.

Every time I lock right rear slider with power lock loud buzz is heard.

The actuator on the left passenger side sliding door is buzzing every time the doors are opened.

The side door actuator is malfunctioning. There is a loud buzzing noise that comes from the drivers side, side sliding door when locking and unlocking the van. Sometimes the door will not open at all and just keeps buzzing, I have also had issues unlocking the door as a result of the malfunctioning actuator. This is a huge safety concern as the door may or may not open and if it does this during an accident or other kind of emergency, the results could be catastrophic.

The sliding doors does not unlock on its own. Needs to be manually unlocked and makes a buzzing sound when pushing the lock button.

My passenger side, sliding door lock is making a loud buzzing noise when unlocking.

Loud buzzing noise when locking door. Seat position control buttons and mirror positioning control buttons stopped working. Had fixed and within a month, they stopped working again. The buzzing issue has been going on for years now. The issues with the seat/mirror controls started about three months ago.

The sliding door on the passenger side buzzes when the electronic locks are locked or unlocked. This is a shock to the driver as the locks engage while driving away from parked.

Unknown- was not in a accident but sliding door just all of a sudden will not open unlatch or anything it’s stuck shut will not even make an unlocking noise when attempting to open.

My left sliding door has now locked shut after making noises that the other side had before it got fixed a year ago. And I can not open it at all.

The door locks on the driver side rear sliding door became inoperable the door was unable to be opened at all, trapping passengers in an accident or an emergency.

The power sliding rear door on the driver side is stuck in a locked position for 4-5 days now. This has happened previously to our power sliding rear door on the passenger side as well (before the current extended warranty) and we corrected that issue on our own by replacing the door actuator. Now that it has happened again and there is a warranty on it, I took it to the dealership and they are telling me it is not the actuator that is broken but the door rod and latch and quoted $1600 to fix the problem. I personally think this is a deceptive practice to get out of replacing the actuator under the warranty, but I am not a mechanic. It sure is suspicious though seeing as the rod and latch are linked to the actuator. This is very dangerous and could cost lives if the vehicle was full of passengers who needed to exit quickly and the door was jammed shut. The fact that it is so closely related to the actuator that already has an extended warranty is a cause for concern.

The rear driver's side sliding door lock has started buzzing loudly when I lock the vehicle. At times the door will not open and my kids and other passengers have to exit through the other sliding door. Upon further research it sounds like this is a somewhat common situation with 2016 Grand Caravans. I am concerned for the safety of myself and passengers if we're unable to exit the vehicle quickly in case of the accident. I have had the vehicle diagnosed with faulty door-lock actuator from a mechanic, but have not brought it in for repairs. There were no warning lamps or lights or alarms. The week prior to the buzzing sound I did notice a strange "clicking" noise coming from the driver's side sliding door.

Actuator in left sliding door went out so now the door will not close or latch unless it’s unplugged… however still will not lock. Now the right side is doing the same.

Rear door actuator failures, 2nd time this has happened. Currently the driver side rear passenger door will not open or unlock, manually or with key fob. It will not open in any manner. The passenger side will only open or lock manually. Passengers cannot exit vehicle causing safety risk.

When the auto lock or manual lock engages, a very loud buzzing noise happens. It is very distracting as it happens when you are driving.

Driver side power sliding door lock stuck in the locked position. The door cannot be unlocked regardless of the method used; key fob, driver side door electric unlock switch, power sliding door switch in the roof of the front seats or the manual lock on the door itself. The safety concern is that in an emergency situation the driver side sliding door cannot be opened, manually or other which means occupants could be trapped. This problem was confirmed by the dealer and deemed not to be due to the "actuator", for which an extended warranty was issued by fca for. The dealer stated that the "drivers door needs new latch" mechanism is at fault and needs to be replaced. Specific fca mopar part number is 68030379ag for the faulty component. Prior to the failure no noises or other improper operation occurred. The door lock "latch" just failed. Confirmed with fca recall customer support, not the dealer, that the "latch" is not covered in the extended warranty letter attached, even though the symptom we are experiencing is the same.

Driver passenger rear door will not open automatically or manually. Huge safety issue. It makes a buzzing sound on the passenger side back door when unlocked.

Sliding electric door on driver side will not open. It is locked into the closed position and I can't open it manually. Will not open no matter what I try.

When your turn the vehicle off and open the door a buzzing sound comes from the right rear of the vehicle.

The vehicle will randomly die and most of the time, it will start back up. It will die when it is stopped and idling, and it has died when I am driving it at all speeds. It dies on the interstate driving 75 mph, on the highway going 55 mph, on a street going 35 mph, and in a subdivision going 15 mph. It has been taken to a certified mechanic who could reproduce the problem but could not diagnose the cause. I took it to the dealership where they said they were not able to reproduce the issue or find any diagnostic error codes. Yet, the dealership was able to find a software upgrade and a "leaky pan" from the transmission that cost me over $550. When I left the dealership, the vehicle died about 2 miles in the middle of a large and very busy street. I tried to restart the vehicle, but it wouldn't start the first 11 tries. After a few minutes, on the 12th try, it did start up and I was able to drive it home. The next morning the vehicle started 4 times but died all 4 times. The first 2 times it died both times after idling for 2 minutes. The 3rd and 4th time it started up and then died within 10 seconds. I had the vehicle towed back to the dealership. The dealership still has it and cannot find out for sure what the actual issue is. They want to try a $3,000 repair, but they are not sure it will actually fix the issue. After searching the web it is not hard to find that so many people have had this same issue. What I would like to know is why so many of these vehicles are allowed on the road without there being a recall to fix this issue? vehicles on the road that can easily die with no warning, that is terrifying. Especially a family vehicle. So many families with children of all ages put in danger by defective parts that cause a vehicle to die with no warning and then no error codes when the vehicle is diagnosed, even at a dealership. I could think of nothing more dangerous for a vehicle or a family traveling in this vehicle than this.

There is a very loud buzzing noise that is detracting to when I drive. It is coming from the rear door. The first time I heard it I was able to stop it by opening the rear door but now it has started back up and won’t stop. It has been 2 weeks now. Again it is extremely distracting while I drive.

The sliding doors are not opening. Either by pushing the buttons or trying to hand pull it open. It is completely stuck. To get my kids out of the car, I had to roll windows down and reach in, because they are in car seats.

Passenger sliding door fails to unlock and/or buzzes when locked.

Drivers side door is stuck in the locked position and will not unlock or open no matter what is done.

Driver side passenger sliding door is stuck in locked position and will not open manually or electronically. This poses severe safety risk in the event that passenger needs to exit vehicle quickly.

When van is unlocked door actuator buzzes and doesn’t always unlock.