general problems of the 2007 Ford Edge - part 2

I was travelling with my wife behind me as and she text my daughter that my passenger tail light was out but the brake light was working. However, when I got home to change the bulb for the millionth time on each side, because I change both and not just one, I went to pull the bulb out of the socket and it was melted into the socket. The bulb was half blackened and charred all around it. I had to pull the entire plugin and then went to the other tail light to do the same and it was also charred black, but not yet melted into the socket. I have found out after tons of research that this is not just one instance. The bulb should have blown or a fuse should have popped. This is a safety hazard and could start a fire. This needs attention time now! the dealerships will not help!.

Tl- the contact owns a 2007 Ford Edge. The contact stated when driving at approximately 4o mph the contact stated when accelerating I would feel a loss of pressure and the vehicle was shaking. The contact had the vehicle diagnosed power control failed the coil melted. The mechanic stated that the vehicle was not safe to drive the vehicle. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000. Am.

I was traveling around 40 mph on a state highway when sputtering and vibration issues started with 2007 Ford Edge and check engine light came on. Still drove vehicle to my mechanic which stated coil burned out and sent surge of power to the pcm. Mechanic stated design of pcm wouldn't stop the firing of coil and not to drive vehicle any further or it will burn to the ground. Mechanic stated only the Ford dealership can install a new one and rest the car to get it running. Towed vehicle to Ford dealership who stated they have a TSB issued for this problem and they will need to replace the pcm and all 6 coils because they have all melted. Ford dealership stated this was an on going problem due to a faulty design of the pcm that when a coil burns out (common wear and tear and $100 to $200 fix) the pcm doesn't stop firing to the coils which could cause the car to catch fire. Estimate to fix the pcm and all six coils was $2,958. Reason for complaint - I understand wear and tear on a vehicle, but due to a design issue in the Ford/Mercury/Lincoln pcm, it caused extensive damage and repair to the car and potential to burn to the ground. $100 fix with proper design and now $2,958 due to pcm issue. I am requesting this issue to be reviewed for reimbursement by the manufacturer or recall issued. Thanks you for your time.

Tl- the contact owns a 2007 Ford Edge. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle the check engine light would suddenly illuminate and the vehicle would stall. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who diagnosed that the turpin shaft speed sensor and output shaft peed sensor was faulty. The sensors were replaced but the vehicle later experienced the same failure. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. Jft.

My door sensor has been staying on for a month now which I figured out to be my drivers door. Reading up on the Ford Edge forum online I am not the only one that has this problem. Newer models are also having the same problem. What then happens is the inside lights also stay on although they go out after 5-10 minutes. My door also doesn't open with a key even though my fob still works. Ford will fix this for anywhere from $350-$450 dollars which seems like a lot for a sensor. I've had cars with door ajar icons before but never had a problem with them staying on for no reason. I'm 58 years old and lost my job to relocation out of the country ( I'm a dislocated worker) and had to find another job which does not pay much. It would cost me a weeks wages to fix this and that is way too much. Thanks for your time.

Tl-the contact owns a 2007 Ford Edge. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the tire pressure illuminates and the vehicle decrease in speed. The contact observed an abnormal noise from the transmission hear while switching gears. The contact also stated that the brake pedal was being depressed but the brakes became in operable. The vehicle was taken to a independent mechanic where it was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure happened intermittently. The manufacturer was not aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 111,000. Ec.

My car started to drive "rough" and later that day I called the Ford dealership to have it serviced. While there were no light indicators off on the dash they said to go ahead and bring it in on Monday to be looked at. Sunday night while driving the vehicle to the dealership, it just died. Again, no lights indicating something was wrong, it had just not been driving smoothly. After having it towed to the dealership, the next day we were contacted to let us know that the vehicle's pcm had shorted and melted the plugs, intake values, coils, battery and catalytic converter. We have always had this vehicle serviced by this dealer and had all of our recommended and / or required service / maintenance preformed. Which is why it is so vexing that something that is not a serviceable item and has no notification can not only go out but take so many components with them. I of course contacted Ford who said that it is not on a recall list and there was nothing they could do for me. I am contacting the NHTSA for their consideration of this item. Thank you.

While driving on a state highway at approximately 55mph the vehicle began to run very rough, the check engine light came on and the car stalled. I pulled over and restarted the car. It started, ran very roughly and had almost no power. I was in town so I drove to the dealer. The dealer pulled a error codes indicating a failed power control module which led to the failure of three of the six coil on pistons. This is an identified problem with this model year with a TSB in place. Ford was covering the cost of failures for vehicles under 80,000 miles. My vehicle, with 97,000 miles did not qualify. Ford should recall these units. It is a known problem and could lead to engine shutdown at highway speed. It cost $2,097 for repair. To be fair, the price included replacing the spark plugs since they were coming due so the true cost of the repair was about $1,950. The pcm was a bad design prone to failure and Ford should attempt to make it right with customers. I called the Ford customer service center and they offered no relief, except to document by displeasure.

Upon replacing a burned out tail lite I noticed the socket which holds the bulb was melted. This has happened on boths sides of tail lites.

Tail light plugs on both sides were burned/ melted needs replaced.

Car is skipping or jerking when going up hills. Happens multiple times when car is moving up hills. Most likely transmission problem or sensor problem.

Driving down interstate highway, speedometer drops to zero then dash lights all come on. Get off highway pull over and car does not move. Wait about 20 minutes, put car in d, hear loud bang, car lunges forward a little then drives normally. Second time it happened was on highway at @60mph when same thing happens, get off highway and stop at 2nd red light when the car does not move at all. Let car sit for @10 min. Then it starts going @10mph, after about 1 mile resumes normal operation. Have brought to local Ford dealer and had 2 sensors replaced along with a transmission fluid exchange but now today it happened again when I stopped at busy back road intersection then tried to resume speed the veh. Would not move. E-mailed local Ford dealer to let them know that issue was happening once again after sensors were replaced. Prior to Ford also had sears look at veh. Where they determined it was a sensor but could not determine which one. Now that the vehicle is back to me it also seems to have alot of hesitation on wanting to go. This vehicle has never seemed to be the best transmission and I have a big concern about how many other people have similar issues with this vehicle. I wonder what would happen to somebody who keeps driving it without getting off the road? I am concerned for the safety of my family, myself, others who own this vehicle, and others on the roadway around these vehicles when there is a problem. The posts I keep seeing all reflect the same issue and all too often they are told that they cannot find anything wrong with the vehicle, will it take a major accident or death for this concern to be addressed? a vehicle should not keep stopping or producing loud bangs after it stops moving and I think there appears to be enough evidence from enough people who have voiced their issues with this problem to warrant immediate action on this matter.

Pulling out into traffic and experienced very harsh shifting. The transmission shuttered and shook, almost refusing to go through the intersection.

The door ajar sensor is malfunctioning. The door is clearly shut, but the door ajar light shows on dash board along with the interior lights staying on. The main concern is when the door ajar light / sensor is malfunctioning, the door will not automatically lock. Even if you push the door lock button, the doors will not lock. This is a major safety issue, because children can open the door or a stranger can hop in the car. Supposedly this is an issue with a lot of Ford's, and needs to be addressed or recalled.

Drove to panama city, FL. For vacation and parked in apt. Garage. Went to my brothers apt. And within an hour, the parking attendant knocked on the door and said that our car had the fog lamps on. Tried to turn them off and couldn't. Had to remove the fuse. Had it checked out and nothing could be found to cause this problem. Fuse is still removed and cannot use the fog lights. Since this incident, the turn signals flash extremely fast. Please let me know what can be done to correct this problem. Thanks.

Taillight sockets and bulbs scorched and burnt together. Signs of high heat.

Second time a year or so later electrical cooling radiator fan goes out. Replacing again.

We started up our car on a Sunday morning, put it in reverse, backed out of our spot, and then put the vehicle in drive. Right away, we noticed the car shaking, not much power, and it was sputtering along. The check engine light was flashing as well, indicating engine misfire. The car was towed to a Ford dealership. The Ford dealership ran a diagnostic and determined that the pcu had overheated and the cylinder coils melted. They also said the pcu is no longer operable and needed to be replaced, along with the coils and plugs. Generally, engine misfire indicates a tune-up is needed; however, in this case, the car needs a brand-new computer. The dealership quoted us at 2,700 total for the repair. Furthermore, this is a known issue with the car, as determined by Ford, as it issued technical service bulletin 13-4-7, citing this model and several others as prone to this malfunction. Ford should recall this model and have the issue fixed. No recalls even though this poses a fire hazard? shocking.

The driver's side tail light has burned out and melted the bulb and the socket. This has occurred 4 times in the 4 months we have owned the car.

Driver side rear blinker has been replaced every 4-6 months. Socket is completely melted. Bulbs are melted. Black is all around socket. This is unacceptable and I will not pay the dealership an arm and leg just to keep me safe (car fire). One person said they were charged 98 dollars. That's absurd. There should be a recall and this should be replaced with no expense to the customer.

Electric radiator cooling fan quit. Car overheated. Had to be replaced.

First occurrence. Turned vehicle on, shifted in drive to leave parking lot. Did not shift correctly, and felt as if it was in neutral. Turned vehicle off, and back on. It shifted fine. Took vehicle back to dealership, as we had only owned it s month and bought in April 2012. They could not find anything wrong. Over time, this has happened 10-15 more times. The computer also seems to be affected by this as well. Today 7/26/2013, I turned on the vehicle, left it start up, began to go into drive, it stalled, and a powertrain light came on. Mileage computer dash disappeared. I turned the car off. Turned it back on. When I tried to shift it, transmission was very violent. Sat in the parking lot for twenty minutes. Turned the car back on, let it run for 2minutes, put it in drive, and it was completely fine. When I drive up hill, it seems to be using a lot more power than necessary, and my rpms go all the way up to 5-6k. Looking for a shop to have the car looked at, or at the dealership.

Rear brake/tail light socket on both the left and right rear of vehicle have overheated and melted the plastic around lamp. Lamp was burnt out. Not sure what caused the high heat problem. No fuse was blown, new bulb worked in socket. This problem has happened twice in the last two months.

Both rear brake light sockets are burnt and melted. This has been reported in complaint numbers 10439124, 10380902, 10372008, and 10307462 as well . A quick search on the internet will reveal numerous owners have and are experiencing this exact issue. The socket that plugs into the brake light pigtail (on both sides) is burnt and actually melted. The drivers side has been hot enough to melt the taillight housing itself. And this is happening without causing a fuse to blow or any type of warning that there is a serious electrical issue. With the recall on the 2012 regarding the fuel tank issue you might think shorting taillights in the same vicinity would be a nasty combination.

Drivers side rear brake/signal light bulb burnt out. Socket bulb goes into was blackened & semi-melted. Next month passenger side same thing. Next month bearings in front passenger wheel went.

Both rear brake light sockets have burned and charred. Plastic is melted. Bulbs burn out repeatedly. Found other complaints online and found the best solution was a certain bulb that had more glass at the base and it was rated for a higher voltage. That company has now discontinued that bulb as of June 2014 so now I am unsure if it will eventually catch on fire. I noticed the problem several years ago. The bulbs burn out a couple of times a year with the regular store bought bulbs. Again, socket and end of bulbs that come in contact with the socket are very charred and melted.

Rear tail light bulbs require frequent replacing. Bulbs and sockets are discolored and show minor menting of plastic socket material. The correct 4157k bulbs are being used as per the owner's manual. This vehicle was purchased by us new.

The rear tail light socket on the passenger side is extremely charred. The light bulb on that side has failed 5 times over 7 years, clearly from overheating, causing loss of brake light and turn light. The other side has never failed but shows early signs of overheating.

The rear turn signal bulbs are burning out on a regular basis of approx every 4-5 month. The bulbs and assembly both show signs of blackening and melting. The issue only seems to be with the rear turn signals. I haven't had to replace any other exterior lights since I purchased the car in may 2009.

Tail light blinkers are melting into the sockets. I have to replace the bulbs once a year because they blow, I was also told by a mechanic that the reason my speaker blew on the right side of the car was do to extra electrical power.

Tail lights melting, please search Ford Edge forum so you can see that I am not the only one. Also melting blinker bulbs. ## VIN passed ## Ford Edge 2007 ##.

We own a 2007 Edge sel and the driver's side brake light constantly burns out. The bulb has been replaced countless times and the socket is melted. I just wanted to share this with everyone. A clicking noise has also developed on the driver's side front wheel recently, however we haven't seen anything related to other complaints about this. The vehicle currently has very low miles (24,000) and this seems odd. I hope this information helps others.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Edge. The contact stated that there was an issue with the front brakes and he smelled a burning odor coming from the front of the vehicle. He did not know if the odor was mechanical or electrical. The brakes vibrated and began to grind when stopping or turning the vehicle at 40 mph. The contact was unsure if the failure was due to the stability control, abs, or general braking system. The dealer could not find any failures after their initial inspection. Most recently, they informed the contact that they could only cut the rotors and replace the brake pads. They could not locate the burning aroma. The manufacturer has not been notified. The failure mileage was approximately 1,000.