general problems of the 2006 Ford Escape

Transmission stirring pump spark plugs.

My steering started locking up and now my vehicle will stall and shut completely down while doing 65 miles an hour and now it won't run at all.

Code p0351, p0352, p0353, p0354, p0355, p0356. Vehicle shut down on the interstate on the way home for work, 2½ hours from home. And will not restart. Pcm most likely the problem.

Dash lights go out at a fill tank of gas and when the vehicle is warmed up and some times. Stay off for a long time vehicle stay running and goes down the road .

My 2006 Ford Escape hybrid is stalling on the highway creating an unsafe condition. This seems to be due to a fault in the external hybrid inverter cooling pump. This has occurred 5+ times,usually during 70 degree (f) + temps. I've contacted the local dealership & Ford motor corp ran the VIN,with no recall. Please investigate.

Vehicle stalls while running and shakes while stopped/idles.

1) accelerator pedal sticks in an upward position cannot push down to accelerate as if it is frozen. After about a half hour pushing with my foot it will releases. When stopped the pedal stick again but will release but vehicle goes in a jerking motion because it is trying to stick again this happens upon being parked or driving in the city or country it happens whenever I need to accelerate. It has started doing this within the past month but as of 11/10/17 it was completely stuck in the up position and not budging 2) electrical issues- when lights are on or anything inside the vehicle lightsaber are flickering and become slightly dim.

Vehicle was being driven and without warning when brakes were applied the pedal went all the way to the floor. The abs light then came on. My child was being transported in the car and an accident almost occurred. Towed car to mechanic and discovered this has happened to a lot of people, yet when I checked there was no active recall on this item. Shop says it needs a new Ford oem abs module assembly 3f2z2c219ab.

Driving down a street in my neighborhood when the brakes failed. In previous occurrences I was told that the calipers froze up and that the brakes would make a grinding noise. Also the computer system on the vehicle would never record the proper amount of fuel in the tank or at times engage the brakes. I am not a professional but I know this vehicle did have issues. The vehicle was in motion on a city street and when I applied the brakes nothing happened. Upon impact it appeared I hit the steering wheel before the airbag deployed. I had my seat belt on. I have driven down that city road thousands of times but it appeared this time there was a issue with he vehicle that caused this accident. Injuries were airbag related.

Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work. Thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection. Just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly. Has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem. On it's way to a second shop for another opinion. Idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc. ). Dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually. "right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine. Message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg. Radio volume will not come down. Get louder if you touch it. This problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related. We've already spent around $2000. 00 on it and I still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model Escape has had. Without diagnosis of a problem, I fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed. I am disappointed to be having such problems with this Ford. My husband actually recently purchased a used Acura instead of a Ford because of it. I have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved.

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. While driving at 35 mph, the vehicle stalled and "stop safely now" displayed on the instrument panel. The vehicle was able to restart after multiple attempts. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that there was a faulty wire harness inside the high voltage battery. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 79,000.

After starting the vehicle it has to be warmer up for about 30 minutes or more, in order for the gas pedal to press down so the vehicle will move. The gas pedal will not move at all. It has to be warmed up in the summer months and well as the winter months in order for the vehicle to move. The gas pedal is so hard to press that it like trying to press your foot through a brick wall. It does this even when at a stand still when trying to accelerator for any speed. It just will not move. This is dangerous for me and my family. Please help !!!.

Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.

I have a 2006 Ford Escape. My car alarm started going off on it's own for a few days. Then the car "ajar door" light came on while I was driving from a doctors appointment. So I took the car into a Ford dealership to get the problem inspected. I was told that there was a right rear door fault. So I asked him to explain. The tech said that Ford had redesigned the rear door latch and that it requires a new cable which will cost me $404. 00 to replace. Needless to say my jaw hit the floor, because that was just one door. Apparently, after searching online for a cheaper solution, I came across so many complaints of the same problem since 2001. Evidently Ford have not solve the problem. It's a safety hazard. If the rear door latch is likely to go bad then it's jeopardizing the safety of the children that's required to sit in the back seat. It probably would be so bad if it were cheaper to replace, but $404. 00 is ridiculously high. If they knew that they had to redesign the latches a recall should have been made.

I was driving from work to the bank to make the daily deposits, when I pulled into a parking space in the bank parking lot I noticed a lot of smoke coming out from under my hood, I immediately got the outside security guard to come take a look and when he raised the hood my car was on fire. If you are standing in front of the car looking in it would be the left side, he immediately called the fire department who came and put it out, my car is now sitting at the dealership.

I own a 2006 Escape. Since the summer of 2009, the sunroof seems to open 'at will'. I close it with difficulty (the rear part will not close completely; if it does the front part is ajar. When it does close completely, it eventually opens again.